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Turnbuckles for Trailering; Is anybody interested?

connie_rider

Member
Member
I'll start with; Yes, {I know} I'm a sinner. {I prefer to trailer to events rather than ride cross country}.
So, please keep the insults to a minimum... 1601822682428.png

After years of trailering, I got tired of using Tie Down Straps to hold my bikes on the trailer.
I wanted something that was more secure/less work.
So, about 5 years ago I worked out a way to use Turnbuckles to secure my bikes.

To make it work:
I installed spools on my axles and turnbuckles on my trailers.
NOTE: The Spools are easy to install, and removable after I take the bike off the trailer.
{I've done this of 4 different bikes so far; C-14 / C-10 / Triumph Tiger / FJR}
The bikes are extremely secure on the trailer, and the turnbuckles are far easier and "safer" to use than Tie Down Straps..

After they worked on my trailers, I helped a few friends install the same set up on their trailer's.
Since then, I've been asked to make and sell them to other people.
But, I choose not to do this. {as it's a lot of work to machine the parts on my baby lathe}

That said;
I've been getting requests from others, and I'm now considering building these for others to use on a C-14.
My thought is to have a number of pieces machined, assemble the spool assemblies, and supply the turnbuckles.
(Anybody that buys them would only have to attach the turnbuckles to their trailer).

Before I start researching the cost of machining the parts,
I'm wondering if there is any interest?
ie; {If your a fellow sinner} "Is this of any interest to you"?


Ride safe, Ted

PS: I'm not in this for the $$.
,,,,,,,,Costs will be kept to a minimum.

UPDATE: Changed the name Spindle to Spool...
 
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I sure would like to see a picture or two of the spindles used on the front and rear axles. No need to post pics of the turnbuckles [I'm pretty sure we all know what they look like] :)
 
+1 to WFL, id like to see it as well, and I'd be interested cuz im looking at becoming a sinner like u ted... was actually looking to do an enclosed trailer and make a camper out of it like Faise did.....
 
The spool's are mounted on Spool shafts that pass thru the axles.
I'll work on some photo's. Can only post what I have on my bike.
NOTE: If I do this, I would improve on my old design a bit.

Konehead, look at a post from Jim Snyder on his trailer.
Smaller, {so that it's easier to tow} but 2 cots work great.
{Enclosed, used for camper, fan/side door/window added, wired for 12 and 120 volts, but not as elaborately modified as Fias trailer was}
If ya want to see it, we will be using it at the Horseshoe Mountain Rally in a couple of weeks. (hint/hint)

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Guys and gals, if you ever use the turnbuckle tiedown system you will never use a tiedown strap again. Ted made the spindles for my FJR and I got turnbuckles from my local hardware store. It is the most secure system I have ever used.
 
I'll start with; Yes, {I know} I'm a sinner. {I prefer to trailer to events rather than ride cross country}.
So, please keep the insults to a minimum... View attachment 27996

After years of trailering, I got tired of using Tie Down Straps to hold my bikes on the trailer.
I wanted something that was more secure/less work.
So, about 5 years ago I worked out a way to use Turnbuckles to secure my bikes.

To make it work:
I install spindles on my axles and turnbuckles on my trailers.
NOTE: The Spindles are easy to install, and removable after I take the bike off the trailer.
{I've done this of 4 different bikes so far; C-14 / C-10 / Triumph Tiger / FJR}
The bikes are extremely secure on the trailer, and the turnbuckles are far easier and safer to use than Tie Down Straps..

After they worked on my trailers, I helped a few friends install the same set up on their trailer.
Since then, I've been asked to make and sell them to other people.
But, I choose not to do this. {as it's a lot of work to machine the parts on my baby lathe}

That said;
I've been getting requests from others, and I'm now considering building these for others to use on a C-14.
My thought is to have a number of pieces machined, assemble the spindle mounts, and supply the turnbuckles.
(Anybody that buys them would only have to attach the turnbuckles to their trailer).

Before I start researching the cost of machining the parts,
I'm wondering if there is any interest?
ie; {If your a fellow sinner} "Is this of any interest to you"?


Ride safe, Ted

PS: I'm not in this for the $$.
,,,,,,,,Costs will be kept to a minimum.
I'd be interested......I can't ride long distances so I have to trailer.
 
Vic; What I failed to add to my first post is;
After the Spool Assemblies are installed on the bike, anchor each turnbuckle to the trailer.
NOTE: All trailers are different so you will have to determine a way to anchor the turnbuckles.
Roll the bike onto the trailer, and attach the turnbuckle's between the Trailer and the spool's, {2 in the front and 2 in the rear}.
Snug the turnbuckles and the bike is secure....

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Victor, Sorry, but I'm not doing this on anything but a C-14.
Reason: To get a good rate on machining costs I need to have multiple pieces made.
 
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Were still waiting for some pics ted.... and i did a search going thru all 5 pages of postings by jim snyder and cant find his trailer camper mods. Duh light bulb just came on.... pm jim snyder for the info.... duh
 
Here are some older pictures from Ted's "archive."
(Ted if you want these taken down let me know).
 

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Thanks Ron.
NOTE: Seeing Ron's 2nd photo I recalled that I have always called the aluminum Spindles, "Spools".
So I went thru my post and changed the wording from Spindles to "Spools".

Ride safe, Ted
 
Here ya go Ted
 

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Apologies for Ted's poor photographic skills.:LOL:
 

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Here are my turnbuckle pics from my enclosed trailer. My turnbuckles were purchased at a local hardware store for about $12 each.
 

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@connie_rider ..... Will the Spools (mainly the rear ones) be suitable to be used as a mounting point for one of those Single Wheel Trailers? (Granted that a suitable arm from the spindle to the trailer being pulled be used.)
 
Yes, they would work if you build something that aligns with them.
I built (overengineered) a set of special spools for Cliff's trailer with zero slop.
They work well, but I think their too complicated.
Std Spools should be fine.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Difficult to approx. price until I find out what the machining on the Spools and Shafts will cost me.
{Don't hold me to this} But, here is a Wild shot in the dark:

Spools; approx. $20 ea. x4 = $80
Spool Shafts; approx. $10 ea. x2 = $20
Turnbuckles; approx. $15 ea. x4 = $60
Shipping: approx. $20 $20
Total: $180

Ride safe, Ted
 
Jim, im curious looks like a 5 ft wide trailer? With the stagger u can get 2 bikes in? Can u post a pic of the front end turn buckled down...plz...
 
Ted, something I've wondered. Does the the threaded rod cause any wear on the inside of the hollow axles or are they hard enough and the tension tight enought to put the wear on the rod?
 
Ted, do u leave ur spools and rod installed when riding? Or are these strictly for transporting/tiedowns...
 
Ted, do u leave ur spools and rod installed when riding? Or are these strictly for transporting/tiedowns...
Ted removes his, I leave my fronts on all the time and just remove the rears because they will touch the mufflers when the suspension is depressed.
 
PICTURES are really worth a thousand words!! Not at all what I had imagined. Looks really "Beefy" to say the least, but then you are from Texas aren't you? Count me in for a set if you decide to proceed. The riding season is too darn short up here.:eek:
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'll try to answer the questions here....

Ron; the spools are all designed to center themselves {so that the spool assumes part of the bending force when the bike is secured}.
A side benefit is the shafts shouldn't hit the inside of the hole.
NOTE: I can't see the inside of the hole to inspect it anyway.. <evil grin>:sneaky:

WFL; their even beefier than you might realize.
I was concerned that the continual bouncing might flex and work harden the all-thread, (which could cause a failure) so I "over engineered" the shafts.
ie; The shafts are made as big as possible from High Strength all-thread.
NOTE: The all-thread I posted is not the correct thread, but shows the strength of the High Strength All-tread. {Fully treaded Rod}

Konehead; I use mine for transport only.
These are beefy/heavy and I didn't want to add un-sprung weight to the suspension.
The current rear spools could hit the muffler if the suspension was compressed.
If they were to fall off on a ride, it wouldn't make my day. (as I no longer take straps).

If I decide to make these, my hope is to make the spools shorter and thread the ID {to do away with the nuts at the ends of the shafts}.
This will make the Spools look nicer/lighter, and hopefully cut the cost to make them.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Thanks all.

{For those that are just viewing this discussion}
I started this discussion because I'm seeing more folks trailering, and thought the turnbuckles might help others.
The turnbuckle idea started because I was tired of fighting tie down straps when I trailered.
{I wanted to replace the straps and find something that was easier to do}.
The turnbuckles accomplished that and the bikes are far more secure. (y)
By the way, another advantage is; When using turnbuckles at the axle's, the bikes suspension is not compressed in any way.
Trying to find out if enough are interested for me to have the parts built economically.

Right now, 'm checking around to see if I can find a machine shop to make the Spools {and for how much}.
I will let ya'll know what I find out.
So far,,, machine shop cost's are too high to pursue.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: T-Rex Racing sells a similar Turnbuckle System for the C-14. {$275}
If I don't make these {or if you want something more professional} it's another option.
 
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Returning to this discussion; I opted not to manufacture/sell the parts as too many $$ up front, and T-Rex has an option that makes it simple to do.
They sell the spools you need for $59, and you can buy 4 Turnbuckles/mounting components from a hardware store and install for about $20 each.
T-Rex Racing 2007 - 2019 Kawasaki Concours 14 Front & Rear Axle Spools (t-rex-racing.com)
I use Turnbuckles from Ace Hardware; {Can't find the exact ones to post, but similar to this;
Baron Galvanized Steel Turnbuckle 1000 lb. capacity - Ace Hardware
NOTE: You would have to determine your own way to attach the Turnbuckles to your trailer. "EZ to do"...
Total cost about $140..

Or {if you have plenty of $$ and want to do it the easiest way} you can buy the T-Rex complete set-up for $275..
2007 - 2017 Kawasaki Concours 14 Strapless Tie down Front Rear Spool Combo (t-rex-racing.com)

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I'm leaning toward the easy way.
After looking at the pictures, I was wondering if its better to have the rear tie downs mount to the trailer forward of the axle. That way there is extra pressure holding the bike against the front chock should the front mounts fail.
 
Either way will work. (y)

NOTE: Unlike tie down straps, the suspension is not compressed {so the bike is less apt to move}.
Additionally, one turnbuckle can fail without the other being heavily effected.
Bottom line; total failure on one end is much less likely.

On my trailers, I have a wheel chock on the front wheel that locks the bike in place.
So, even if I had a catastrophic front failure, the bike doesn't roll rearward.
My reasoning; I use rearward leaning turnbuckles' to hold the rear of the bike down if there is a "sudden" stop.

Ride safe, Ted
 
I'm not trying to sell the T-Rex parts, or make any $$.
I got tired of fighting tie down straps and built my own turnbuckle system.
After a lot of trial and error, I'm happy with mine and have built some for others.
I later discovered that T-Rex made a turnbuckle system.
So, I'm just offering the idea to those that trailer.

For a time, I considered making these and selling them myself (ie; this discussion), but I opted not to.
,,,,Too much front money on my part, and I'm retired. {ie; Don't want to work that hard}

NOTE: To test my system: I stood on a foot peg, held the handlebar and leaned back as far as possible.
The trailer moves from my weight, but bike doesn't.
If you do the same with straps, the bike will lean.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I ordered the front & rear spool set Friday & it's already shipped !. I will buy some heavy duty eye bolts to mount on my Kendon trailer. I really like the straps that T-rex have but they are way too expensive so I'll get some heavy duty turnbuckles .
 
I ordered the front & rear spool set Friday & it's already shipped !. I will buy some heavy duty eye bolts to mount on my Kendon trailer. I really like the straps that T-rex have but they are way too expensive so I'll get some heavy duty turnbuckles .
If you have an Ace hardware or True Value hardware in your area they have the turnbuckles I use for about $13 each.
 
The turnbuckles that Jim uses are ideal.
After you install the eye bolts, please post pictures.
I've looked at some of the Kendon Trailer's and unsure how/where I would install them.

Ride safe, Ted
 
While breezing thru the hardwear aisle at Lowes the other day, i noticed thay also carry turn buckles.. big ones...

Military discount.....just saying...
 
Here is Ted and my bike secured in my trailer with the turnbuckles.
 

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Jim, how did u mount the turn buckle floor loops. Are they thru a frame member or did u just use reinforcing plates to spread out the load...?
 
Jim, how did u mount the turn buckle floor loops. Are they thru a frame member or did u just use reinforcing plates to spread out the load...?
I think two of them caught the frame but I used 1/8" plate squares under the floor for all of them.
 
The turnbuckle length is dependent on where you attach the turnbuckles to the trailer "and" to the bike.
For instance;
* On my systems, the rear spools are attached thru the rear axle.
On the T-Rex spools, the spools are attached at the knuckle forward of the rear axle.
So, I suspect that shorter turnbuckles can be used.
Both mount thru the front axle.

* In all cases, look to see where the turnbuckle's will be attached to the trailer.
(The location will be different on every trailer}
* On my trailers, the turnbuckle attaches to the trailer above the frame.
On Zarticus {Kendon Trailer}, the turnbuckle attachment point may be located lower than mine.
If so, longer turnbuckles may be needed for his set up.

* Lastly; Measure from where you intend to mount the turnbuckles on the trailer to the spool locations.
Important; Do this measurement after deciding about installing a possible wheel chock.
Then; Measure the turnbuckles {extended and screwed together} to determine their available working range.
Pick the turnbuckle that meets your needs.

All of this sounds difficult, but isn't. It just takes a little thought. Take your time.
For instance; {I made Ron some spools 3 years ago, and he's still thinking about mounting them}.. <grin>
It does take a little tinkering to get it exactly like you want. But EZ to do.
Suggestion; On our turnbuckles, we bent the top portion of the turnbuckles. {to make it easier to attach the turnbuckles to the spools/see photo's}

Ride safe, Ted
 
The turnbuckle length is dependent on where you attach the turnbuckles to the trailer "and" to the bike.
For instance;
* On my systems, the rear spools are attached thru the rear axle.
On the T-Rex spools, the spools are attached at the knuckle forward of the rear axle.
So, I suspect that shorter turnbuckles can be used.
Both mount thru the front axle.

* In all cases, look to see where the turnbuckle's will be attached to the trailer.
(The location will be different on every trailer}
* On my trailers, the turnbuckle attaches to the trailer above the frame.
On Zarticus {Kendon Trailer}, the turnbuckle attachment point may be located lower than mine.
If so, longer turnbuckles may be needed for his set up.

* Lastly; Measure from where you intend to mount the turnbuckles on the trailer to the spool locations.
Important; Do this measurement after deciding about installing a possible wheel chock.
Then; Measure the turnbuckles {extended and screwed together} to determine their available working range.
Pick the turnbuckle that meets your needs.

All of this sounds difficult, but isn't. It just takes a little thought. Take your time.
For instance; {I made Ron some spools 3 years ago, and he's still thinking about mounting them}.. <grin>
It does take a little tinkering to get it exactly like you want. But EZ to do.
Suggestion; On our turnbuckles, we bent the top portion of the turnbuckles. {to make it easier to attach the turnbuckles to the spools/see photo's}

Ride safe, Ted
Yes you did and I am most appreciative. I just haven’t taken time to utilize them because I need to install four more tie downs so I can reach them. Otherwise I was thinking about some lengths of 3/8” chain and locking links to extend the turnbuckles.. Thanks again!
 
I just got my T-Rex spools this morning. What are the 2 metal blocks that come with the front spools for ? . They are about 4" long with holes in each end. T-Rex blocks.jpg
 
I think their extensions that work with the T-Rex Turnbuckles.
Might be useful if you need to extend the turnbuckles you buy.

Ride safe, Ted
 
I think their extensions that work with the T-Rex Turnbuckles.
Might be useful if you need to extend the turnbuckles you buy.

Ride safe, Ted
That makes sense, Don't know why I did not think of that. My mind was thinking it had to be more complicated than that & the T-Rex spools came with no instructions. I wonder why T-Rex did not go threw the rear axle on their design ?
 
Not a problem Ron. Fun picking on you.
Wish I were nearer to help your install.

Ride safe, Ted
NP Ted. Back at you. I’ll get et done this spring. I’m almost motivated enough to quit messing with the straps. Happy New Year!!
 
T-Rex built their spools so that they can remain in place after installation.
I opted to go thru the axle as I felt it was stronger/easier to use.
But my spools must be removed for muffler clearance and to re-install a pin thru the axle nut.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Went looking at Turnbuckles, Figured out with the T-Rex spools you have to bump up to 1/2" turnbuckles for the ends to fit on their spools !
 
That's something I didn't think of.
I assume that your looking at turnbuckles that have open hook on the ends? (to hook over something)
If so, would it be possible to open the hook a bit more or trim the end so that it slips over the spool?

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I heated and opened the hooks on my turnbuckles to fit the spools Ted made. I can't imagine T-rex spools being any larger then Ted's.
 
I bought some 3/8 turnbuckles today, I found these at Tractor Supply. The hooks are not big enough for the spools but they had bigger 3/8 hooks on the shelf where eyebolts are. I replaced the one end with the bigger hooks for the spools & the other end that they came with will work fine for hooking to mounts on the trailer. All together with Tax they were a little over $42.00 for everything to make 4 setups . I can cut the threaded part of the larger hooks shorter if I need too.
 

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I bought some 3/8 turnbuckles today, I found these at Tractor Supply. The hooks are not big enough for the spools but they had bigger 3/8 hooks on the shelf where eyebolts are. I replaced the one end with the bigger hooks for the spools & the other end that they came with will work fine for hooking to mounts on the trailer. All together with Tax they were a little over $42.00 for everything to make 4 setups . I can cut the threaded part of the larger hooks shorter if I need too.
You are going to love the new setup. You will never use tiedown straps ever again.
 
Well I hate to admit publicly that I listen to/ read Ted...but I received my front & rear T Rex spools the other day. ;)

However, I haven't even looked into turnbuckles yet....but...(and call me being silly here and not well educated in engineering things) there is no way I'd use a turnbuckle with bent hooks...If I couldn't find closed ended loops then I'd find bent ones and have them welded shut. I'm sure that in normal braking and even panic braking the bent hooks would be fine.....but I have doubts about them holding up in panic swerving especially if it is a double swerve both left and then quickly followed by right. Also, if you load the bike unaware of a slow leak in the tire and it goes flat while trailering then how much will it loosen up in a hook rather than a loop? I'm thinking that I'll get a shackle that fits the spool snugly and bolts through a solid eye turnbuckle and If I have difficulty finding hardware that I like then I'll just bite the bullet and get the T Rex hold downs. In my opinion bent hook turnbuckles should only be used for securing a heavy bike to a lift, not for trailering.
Of course YOMV, especially if you are educated or experienced in securing transportation loads. I'm not. Unfortunately I'm only experienced in what can go wrong so I try to avoid that the best I can..'cause I think I have enough experience in that department already.
Apologies if I sound like chicken little, I'm not trying to poo on anyone's parade, just trying to be helpful.
 
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Well I hate to admit publicly that I listen to/ read Ted...but I received my front & rear T Rex spools the other day. ;)

However, I haven't even looked into turnbuckles yet....but...(and call me being silly here and not well educated in engineering things) there is no way I'd use a turnbuckle with bent hooks...If I couldn't find closed ended loops then I'd find bent ones and have them welded shut. I'm sure that in normal braking and even panic braking the bent hooks would be fine.....but I have doubts about them holding up in panic swerving especially if it is a double swerve both left and then quickly followed by right. Also, if you load the bike unaware of a slow leak in the tire and it goes flat while trailering then how much will it loosen up in a hook rather than a loop? I'm thinking that I'll get a shackle that fits the spool snugly and bolts through a solid eye turnbuckle and If I have difficulty finding hardware that I like then I'll just bite the bullet and get the T Rex hold downs. In my opinion bent hook turnbuckles should only be used for securing a heavy bike to a lift, not for trailering.
Of course YOMV, especially if you are educated or experienced in securing transportation loads. I'm not. Unfortunately I'm only experienced in what can go wrong so I try to avoid that the best I can..'cause I think I have enough experience in that department already.
Apologies if I sound like chicken little, I'm not trying to poo on anyone's parade, just trying to be helpful.
Stop right there. Open hooks will not, I repeat will not come off under hard braking. We did an emergency brake maneuver on our last trip to Arkansas and nothing came loose on mine or Ted's bike. The front turnbuckles should be slightly angled forward and the rears slightly angled rearward. They pull against each other and do not loosen like tie straps. Trust me, no one drives any harder or stops any harder then I do. Don't be a chicken little, buy the open hook turnbuckles and use them with confidence.
 
Hi Marty. Thanx for the input. All thoughts are welcome on this.
I'm only a tinkerer and had some of the same concerns you mention.
Here is what I think. {Poor boy engineering}

On the tire going flat, my guess is the bike may settle 1" - 2".
Because the turnbuckles are at an approx. 45* angle that means they could loosen approx. 1/2" to 1".
With the turnbuckles we are using, I don't think that this is enough movement to allow the turnbuckle to lift off the top of the spool and fall off.
(Did I mention that the turnbuckle hook is always put on from the top?)
NOTE: The other tire isn't flat, so the opposite set of turnbuckles are still working as before.

If the rear tire goes flat, the front turnbuckles and the wheel chock hold the bike upright.
If the front tire goes flat, the rear turnbuckle and wheel chock do the same...
If the bike leans left or right in a turn, the inboard turnbuckle loosens a bit, and the opposite turnbuckle tightens.
If I slam on the brakes, the rear turnbuckles and wheel chock prevent forward movement.
If I do a banzai accell, the front turnbuckles and lower clamp of the wheel chock prevent rearward movement.
And because {unlike straps} turnbuckles are rigid, the unloaded turnbuckles help support the load as "they can't be compressed".

Open hooks vs closed ends on turnbuckles.
Err; Have you ever seen a motorcycle strap that did not use hooks?
2 turnbuckles and 1 std wheel chock will secure the bike.
,,,,,, {We're using 4 turnbuckles and a clamping chock}
The turnbuckles are tightened only enough to partially compress the tires, so accels, decells, or leans only compress the tire further.
{Think of it as a compressible spring that keeps the turnbuckle in tension}
That tire/spring won't produce enough force to straighten a 3/8" hook.

NOTE: Nothing is impossible, but for all the reasons I mentioned, I don't feel that the bike can fall off the trailer.
After Jim's aww sh__ maneuver on the last trip, the open hook turnbuckles proved how well they work.
{However, I needed clean shorts}
PS: Jim, did you ever look into brakes for the trailer??

Possible open hook solutions;
Bungee straps from Turnbuckle to trailer frame or rubber band around the open hook would prevent the possibility of the turnbuckles falling off.
** Occasionally look at the bike/trailer and see if there has been any loosening. If yes, tighten the turnbuckles a bit.

Lastly; (because I had the same concerns about hooks) I bought a set of the T-Rex turnbuckle clamps and welded then to my turnbuckles.
Their a LOT more difficult to install on the spools than the open hooks and I "will" remove them eventually.
I prefer the hooks.

By the way; after you remove the slack, the turnbuckles will need only about 1 rotation to secure the bike.
(That single rotation on all 4 turnbuckles will compress the tires a bit.).
After the initial tightening, the turnbuckles will require an occasional check for tightness as the bike settles into the trailer rails.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I Have a set of these that I'm putting between the nut & peg on the back passenger pegs, I'm going to put another pair of turnbuckles from these to the trailer as a back up. If the bike still falls then it was meant to be & a higher power decided I do not need the bike !
 

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Stop right there. Open hooks will not, I repeat will not come off under hard braking.
I never said they would. I repeat...oh skip it... or reread.

My concern, like I said was a hard panic type swerve in one direction to the other. My fear (probably unfounded I'll admit, but..) is that they will bend open and then fall off. If I can put them in a vise and bend them (the hooks) with just a short wrench (and I can) then I think perhaps a 700 lb motorcycle can too during violent road maneuvers.

I stated my concerns and I'll address them in my trailer load securing and others can ignore them as they see fit.

Should I have left any doubt either because of my poor wording or the reader's forum skimming ability ..let me be clear...
I think the turnbuckle method of holding down the bike is superior to straps.
I just think that bent metal can be unbent, and not always on purpose.
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Don't be a chicken little, .....
Can't help it....it just comes natural to some of us short people with big bikes. :rolleyes:
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I Have a set of these that I'm putting between the nut & peg on the back passenger pegs, I'm going to put another pair of turnbuckles from these to the trailer as a back up. If the bike still falls then it was meant to be & a higher power decided I do not need the bike !

Be aware that ultimately the passenger foot pegs are held on by a couple of welds to the subframe and can tolerate significant downward force but side force will eventually crack those welds. The available saddlebag protectors also bolt to that same weld and putting straps on those other than in a downward direction (down forward or rearward is OK as is straight down) may crack that weld. The method you are planing for back up securing sounds fine, just avoid any temptation to attach the turnbuckles out at an angle to the bike. I wouldn't use that as the only rear security though, just as back up, the rear axle method that Ted uses or the rear suspension method that T Rex uses is much more secure.
 
I never said they would. I repeat...oh skip it... or reread.

My concern, like I said was a hard panic type swerve in one direction to the other. My fear (probably unfounded I'll admit, but..) is that they will bend open and then fall off. If I can put them in a vise and bend them (the hooks) with just a short wrench (and I can) then I think perhaps a 700 lb motorcycle can too during violent road maneuvers.

I stated my concerns and I'll address them in my trailer load securing and others can ignore them as they see fit.

Should I have left any doubt either because of my poor wording or the reader's forum skimming ability ..let me be clear...
I think the turnbuckle method of holding down the bike is superior to straps.
I just think that bent metal can be unbent, and not always on purpose.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Can't help it....it just comes natural to some of us short people with big bikes. :rolleyes:
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Be aware that ultimately the passenger foot pegs are held on by a couple of welds to the subframe and can tolerate significant downward force but side force will eventually crack those welds. The available saddlebag protectors also bolt to that same weld and putting straps on those other than in a downward direction (down forward or rearward is OK as is straight down) may crack that weld. The method you are planing for back up securing sounds fine, just avoid any temptation to attach the turnbuckles out at an angle to the bike. I wouldn't use that as the only rear security though, just as back up, the rear axle method that Ted uses or the rear suspension method that T Rex uses is much more secure.
These have a 11,000 lb rating, Maybe a solid eye on the turnbuckle ends & these around the spool & threw the Turnbuckle eye ?.
 

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I understand your concerns about straightening. Had the same. Convinced now that it's not an issue.
NOTE: In a panic stop or maneuver, 2 turnbuckles (in tension), 2 turnbuckles (in compression), and the wheel chock are working together to hold the bike.

I originally tried 1/2 thread, full loop turnbuckles. (Was a PITA to use, and had to be modified)
Discovered that the 1/2" tread was massive overkill as "each" turnbuckle was rated at about 2000 lbs working load.
The problem was; I couldn't find any full loop turnbuckles that had a eye which was big enough to pass over the end of the spools.
Even the 1/2" tread had too small of eye.
Eventually Jim found the ones that he is using. {I'm now using those on my #2 trailer}
I think the working load on them is 350 lbs / 1500 break.
The 350 does seem kinda borderline, but I'm now convinced their fine.
ie; After Jim's Aww s___ maneuver, I inspected everything.
Nothing had distorted. (This included the turnbuckles and the small (I think 1/4") D-rings he is using on the floor of the trailer as his attachment point).

Here is a hook type that you will like better. It is a 3/8" thread with cast hooks.
{Has a 5000 break strength and a 1000 lb working load}.
The problem is, the inside of the hook is probably too small to fit over the spool body.
Galvanized Turnbuckle - Hook & Hook - 3/8" x 6 (uscargocontrol.com)

Ride safe, Ted

PS: We assumed you were concerned with them falling off when you asked about a flat tire.
 
These have a 11,000 lb rating, Maybe a solid eye on the turnbuckle ends & these around the spool & threw the Turnbuckle eye ?.
I've tried some of those.
They might work, but so far I haven't found any that will fit over the spool body.

Ride safe, Ted
 
The hooks on these turnbuckles had to be heated to open them up to fit our spools, so they will not open up with manual pressure. We
(Ted&Jim engineering) have done lots of experimenting with this system and it works flawlessly. We would not publish our recommendations if there was any possiblity of failure. It is the most solid tiedown system I have ever used. And I've been doing this stuff for over 50 years. If you can't trust Ted and Me who can you trust !!!
 

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If you can't trust Ted and Me who can you trust !!!
Well, when you put it that way....(talk about leaving a door open :D )

If you guys are happy, then I'm happy.
I do like what I see in this photo even if it isn't on a trailer:
turnbucklehighlight.jpg

I think I'll do something like that on mine and then I'd feel safe using only hooks on the rear.
 
That may work.
Do let us know when you find a shackle, D rings, {or other (??)} that work for you.

You posted a picture of my bike on the workbench.
Look closely.; The turnbuckle is only 1/4" thread.
I couldn't find shackle rings that fit over the spool body, so I ground the ends of the shackles to make them fit over the spool body, but not the spool end. {Tight fit}!!
{That set up was very weak and didn't work out} ie; I dropped my C-10 from the work bench..
NOTE: The turnbuckles/shackles didn't fail. I just dropped it. o_O

I've since changed to 5/16 turnbuckles, and S hooks. Those are ok, but not ideal.
I plan to install a set of Jim's open hook turnbuckles next.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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This system WORKS extremely well. The bike doesn't move AT ALL.

I think the front does most of the work and you could probably get by with securing the rear by looping a strap around the rear tire.

Here's my bike secured to an E Track in enclosed trailer.

1609806918503.jpeg
 

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Ok, Ted. I'm getting ready for some (more) serious traveling next summer. Pulling from GA to Missouri, Texas, NC, and Colorado weren't far enough...LOL so I'm going to do this upgrade this winter.

I'm looking at the pictures and would like to ask approximately how far apart are those front turnbuckles anchored in front? The ones in my floor are too far apart, I think, so I'll install another couple of loops in the floor. The back spacing doesn't seem so critical. I like the e-track version, but I use my garage as a dining room when parked more than a night. Thanks guys. This is good stuff.
 
Ok, Ted. I'm getting ready for some (more) serious traveling next summer. Pulling from GA to Missouri, Texas, NC, and Colorado weren't far enough...LOL so I'm going to do this upgrade this winter.

I'm looking at the pictures and would like to ask approximately how far apart are those front turnbuckles anchored in front? The ones in my floor are too far apart, I think, so I'll install another couple of loops in the floor. The back spacing doesn't seem so critical. I like the e-track version, but I use my garage as a dining room when parked more than a night. Thanks guys. This is good stuff.
Ok Ron here is the official measurement. 12 inches to each side of center of the wheel chock.
 

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Ok Ron here is the official measurement. 12 inches to each side of center of the wheel chock.
Thank you so much! I was looking today at what I need to do. I was up at the trailer working on the microwave and this is next. Thanks Jim.
 
Ron, there is not a "required" measurement.
Jim's dimensions work "very" well, but you do not have to use his exact dimensions.
{On my trailer, my front turnbuckle mounts happen to be 18" apart, and my rear turnbuckles are 24" apart}.

What determines the location is the length of the turnbuckles and available mounting locations.
Additionally; the front turnbuckles need to pull the bike forward into the wheel chock.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the rear turnbuckles need to pull rearward.

Do a rough measurement on your bike/trailer and then try to find turnbuckles that fit those requirements.
If you can't find turnbuckles in those dimensions, buy what is close, and adjust as necessary.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Ron, there is not a "required" measurement.
Jim's dimensions work "very" well, but you do not have to use his exact dimensions.
{On my trailer, my front turnbuckle mounts happen to be 18" apart, and my rear turnbuckles are 24" apart}.

What determines the location is the length of the turnbuckles and available mounting locations.
Additionally; the front turnbuckles need to pull the bike forward into the wheel chock.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the rear turnbuckles need to pull rearward.

Do a rough measurement on your bike/trailer and then try to find turnbuckles that fit those requirements.
If you can't find turnbuckles in those dimensions, buy what is close, and adjust as necessary.

Ride safe, Ted
I agree with Ted, my floor attachments are perfectly spaced. Ron if you can't find the turnbuckles let me know and I will but them at my hardware store and ship them to you.
 
Thanks guys. My beer tab owed to you two is growing... I can find all sorts of sizes online, but thanks for the offer. I'm just trying to get it right the first time (right...).

I told Ted I'm going to do a mock-up with a piece of plywood and some floor tie downs, get it right, then "measure twice, and drill once" in my trailer since it has a rubberized floor and enough holes already. I'm not in a huge rush to get this done (obviously) but with retirement looming this summer, I'm making more serious progress at upgrading some TH systems, and this is one of them.

I'm in the process of replacing the microwave (croaked), upgrading the tie down system, about to build a new ramp extension (current one is great but heavy as can be), junk like that. When I make some progress, I'll let you know. Thanks for the help. Much appreciate.

I talked to Ted last night and he said he's coming to the rally in June. Jim - hope you make it, too. But I DO need to warn the nice people of Alabama about Ted being inbound.... ;-)
 
I talked to Ted last night and he said he's coming to the rally in June. Jim - hope you make it, too. But I DO need to warn the nice people of Alabama about Ted being inbound.... ;-)
Warn them?? Noooo!
,,,,, Wrong wording,,,,,
It's called "advertising"..
ie; Once they hear, they'll come from miles to meet "the Ted"..

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Hans Ove-Gortz is coming. {OtP Boss}
,,,,,,,,,,He's traveling in from Sweden. {To meet "the Ted"}
,,,,,,,,,,,And,,,, the OtP Team is hoping to bring last years OtP Traveler too {Odo}.. {He wants to meet "the Ted" too}
More advertisin'; Kuzin Ted is hoping to make it from New Mexico. {2 "the Ted's" will be there...}
 
Warn them?? Noooo!
,,,,, Wrong wording,,,,,
It's called "advertising"..
ie; Once they hear, they'll come from miles to meet "the Ted"..

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Hans Ove-Gortz is coming. {OtP Boss}
,,,,,,,,,,He's traveling in from Sweden. {To meet "the Ted"}
,,,,,,,,,,,And,,,, the OtP Team is hoping to bring last years OtP Traveler too {Odo}.. {He wants to meet "the Ted" too}
More advertisin'; Kuzin Ted is hoping to make it from New Mexico. {2 "the Ted's" will be there...}
Well there goes the neighborhood.
 
Well there goes the neighborhood.
Jim, it's not nice to pick on Hans, or Kuzin Ted that way........

Err; Getting back to the discussion;
I'm using the same turnbuckles as Jim. {on one of my trailers}
See below;

The distance from "center of hook, to center of hoop" {with turnbuckles fully extended} is approx. 16" - 17".
Fully compressed, that dimension is probably about 12".
The threads are 3/8".

These turnbuckles are available at ACE Hardware Stores or True Value Hardware Stores in "Hook and hook", "loop and loop", or "hook and loop".
Jim and I are using the hook and loop....
They are ideal for most requirement's.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Not yet. I've got the turnbuckles and floor loops. Grinding slowly forward. I'll post up when it's done.
 
Not yet. I've got the turnbuckles and floor loops. Grinding slowly forward. I'll post up when it's done.
Same here, I have assembled some hardware but since I also have a new trailer that I've never used, there are other complications and current life priorities at present. I doubt I'll have anything more until late February or early March. I plan on trailering to the Wildflower rally so that I have a car to go get food if that's what we end up doing. Below is what I have so far, but I think my turnbuckles may be too long. If they are, I might just buy some bent hook turnbuckles with shorter bodies with the same thread size and then cut the screws that I have to shorter lengths and combine the pieces.



 
I have not started on making mounts on my trailer yet. I will be working on it soon & will post what I come up with.
 
OK, either 1) T-Rex had a quality control problem, 2) or they sent me the wrong spool, 3)..or I'm an idiot. I know you guys want to
instantly jump on #3 (thanks).... but one of the spools (.872") fits either side of my front axle and the other one fits neither side. Those of you
that purchased the front axle hold down spools from T-Rex did they look like this?:

i-7FdjThD-L.jpg
 
Ill let u know in a couple days marty. I ordered front and rear set should be here feb2...the spool with the threaded rod looks like a rear from their website..
 
Ill let u know in a couple days marty. I ordered front and rear set should be here feb2...the spool with the threaded rod looks like a rear from their website..
Thanks, it actually looks like the one in their photo. I have unscrewed it from the shaft in my photo. I think the larger diameter (.898 inch) wasn't machined correctly..should be the same as the other one (.872 inch) with out the step. I think the one without the step is supposed to go into the "shaft" end (usually the right side) of the axle, and the stepped one is supposed to go into the "nut" end (usually the left side). Even configured that way, the larger step on mine is too large to fit into the hex and the smaller step (.788 inch) is too large to go inside the axle shaft inside diameter......so???

zarticus?..could you measure yours...or rather do the front ones fit on both sides?

N62-12FSRSCombo-2.jpg
 
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I'm just seeing this now, Tomorrow morning I will go out to the garage & take mine off the bike & take pictures.
 
I'm just seeing this now, Tomorrow morning I will go out to the garage & take mine off the bike & take pictures.
Well, no need for that, but if you could measure them or indicate if the one with the step in it fits either or both sides?

Rubin hasn't gotten back to me yet on what the design team reported to him, but I suspect that the one with the step in it I received
is out of tolerance by around .020 inch. I'll probably chuck it up in a lathe or a cordless drill and file it down until it fits snug. I might just use
these front wheel T-Rex spools for setting up the trailer fittings and then make my own out of some stainless.
 
I'm sorry I did not get out to the garage today, Been fighting a bad cold for a couple days & never made it off the couch today. Starting to feel better so I'll try tomorrow.
 
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