• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Canyon Cages

kirk6296

Guest
Guest
Anyone know if these can be purchased somewhere? My searches only show some newer version of the cages that seem to work so well. The newer version seems to be but a shadow of the older.


Thank you
 
T rex also has crash bars ...front and rear. ....for the c14...

I think the newer versions simply installation and may make it possible to not have to take some plastic off to install. (Yes i have mc canyon cages and made the cut in the fairing to.make it easier to remove for servicing, leaving the cages on)
 
T rex also has crash bars ...front and rear. ....for the c14...

I think the newer versions simply installation and may make it possible to not have to take some plastic off to install. (Yes i have mc canyon cages and made the cut in the fairing to.make it easier to remove for servicing, leaving the cages on)
I found the T-Rex crash bars for the 2008. They are a different shape than the Canyon Cages, and appear to be up higher once installed, on the bike. Not sure if that's more, or less effective as a guard, but would think it's less so since the bike would travel further if it tipped over before the guard catches it, and the mirror could be in danger of making contact w/ the ground. Any idea on whether the T-Rex is more or less effective than the Canyon Cages on a 2008/09 model?
 
I bought my 2011 with a set of cages preinstalled by the prior owner. He told me then they were no longer available and if I ever sold them to not let them go cheap. Sorry, I have no plans to sell mine.

I have looked all over the internet and I cannot find a source for them I am sorry to say. It is my understanding there was a company working on a copy, licensing the design - or something to that effect, but it never happened. Thus the used market may be your only hope, or you could have someone fabricate them for you from an example. It would not be as cheap as new ones, but you could add your own customizations to the design.

Good luck
 
Wasnt Murph looking for a set to copy and market? That's Murph from murphs kits. Send them an email and ask him...
 
I offered Murph mine to get measurements before I installed them but he replied that he already had a set. To my knowledge though, he hasn't done anything with developing a version and starting to distribute them. I can attest to the effectiveness of the guards. About 2 weeks after installing them a lady pulled out in front of me and I didn't quite clear her. Bike tipped over at 0 MPH and, except for some minor scuffs on the mirror and the lower portion of the guard, there was not damage. I think they were a good investment.
 
Wasnt Murph looking for a set to copy and market? That's Murph from murphs kits. Send them an email and ask him...
I believe that is who I heard was working on a knockoff set. I knew someone was talking about it, I just don't think it ever happened. As I recall, Murph said the cost to make them was difficult to recover and make a profit from the effort.

Maybe Murph needs some slave labor to help with the bottom-line. OK, that was a joke. Murph is an ethical guy, and that is why it would be difficult. To ethically build them, pay for materials and pay a fair wage to build them would be a tall order if you intend to make a profit. And that is the real challenge and why the original manufacturer probably gave up. Or at least that is my guess.
 
I'm hoping for something soon cause I'm getting older & shorter, while the bike keeps getting bigger & heavier.

I hear you brother. I'm surprised my feet still touch the ground! My legs seem to shrink with every passing year, but my shoes are more difficult to on each year when they should be getting closer. Oh I forgot, that obstacle just above my belt buckle keeps growing, thus making my bend to reach them all the more challenging.

Getting old just sucks!
 
Does anyone have any experience comparing the T-Rex bars with the frame sliders (eg R&G slider-pucks that mount on the sides)? Or any experience with either t-Rex bars or sliders in an actual drop?
I too have an '08 that has not yet fallen over, and I'm worried that I'm tempting fate.
 
Are u asking about this type of tip over protection? I thought these were the r+g . I couldnt stand these, the placement just bothered the hell out of me and my short legs would bump them occasionally...
 

Attachments

  • 20150219_124802.jpg
    20150219_124802.jpg
    155.7 KB · Views: 337
No, I was referring to the engine guards - often called frame sliders - that mount mid-way up the finned area and require a hole to be cut in the fairing.
 
I'm hoping for something soon cause I'm getting older & shorter, while the bike keeps getting bigger & heavier.
67 years old with a 28 inch inseam, yeah I get it. I got the cages when I first got my '15. Looks like I got them at the right time.
 
T rex also has crash bars ...front and rear. ....for the c14...

I think the newer versions simply installation and may make it possible to not have to take some plastic off to install. (Yes i have mc canyon cages and made the cut in the fairing to.make it easier to remove for servicing, leaving the cages on)
I just installed the engine guards and luggage guards this week from T-Rex on my 2015 Connie. No cutting or removal of plastics was necessary. The included instructions were a little rough, but with help of some YouTube videos I got it done!
 
I am considering buying used concours, 2010+, likely 2015. So 2 have canyon cages and 1 doesn't, but it has steve's MRP flash and 2 brothers racing slip on. I like the canyon cages but am aware they are not being made and hard to find. I have even looked at mounts for highway bars and like the ones a member made that mount on the support bracket bolt in middle of cage. The T rex bars do not have any bolt near to mount pegs. Anyone mount pegs on T Rex? And I wonder how the T Rex and canyon cages compare in protection? Also read about concerns of T rex rear guards may cause suspension interference? Not sure how? Anyone know? In case you are going to say just get one with cages, the one without has very low 6800 miles. The ones with have 18,000 and 28,000. All about same price. some difference in other farkles too. Any thoughts or answers to above questions appreciated.
 
If u didnt see it, there was a recent posting about fines and penalties for company's that modify/flash a vehicles ECU from the EPA. Its going to be interesting to see how this will affect steve and ivan, and any future flashes.

Myself i have canyin cages fir the front and trex on the back. I just got the trex bag protectors after my second no speed drop. The cages saved the plastics each time, but my right side bag as a hurt spot.. i have highway pegs mounted on the cages as well as an extra set of auxiliary led lights...

I also have a set of Ronnies pegs just for variety.
 
I wasn't aware of the EPA issue. I will search for the thread. One thought process I had was if I want the canyon cages a lot more than say the T Rex version, then get bike with them because I can always get a flash/pipe. But maybe that isn't true if EPA cracks down. Interesting thing is I read some people actually get better gas mileage after flash?

Ronnies don't look like they move position much Compared to say the ones that mount on canyon cages support bolt? Ever hit shifter with heel using the Ronnies?

Oh, btw, Murph says he has dropped the canyon cages so no hope there. Just confirming what was mentioned above.
 
No issues with accidentally hitting shifter, the only real concern, and Ronnie cautions you to be mind full of puting your feet down on the pavement. Its easy to catch ur pant cuff on the peg. Its position is about 3 inches forward of the shifter, so it gives u an option. My pegs.on.my cages are mounted using peg clamps, Rivco i believe, instead of using the mounting bolt hole, allows some adjustment for personalized comfort...
 
yes, I have seen the rivco option. some complain that they don't tighten up good and slip, then scratching the powder coating. Could be dangerous if slip also. Just have to make sure right diameter as I guess some older cages are different diameter so if get wrong size don't work well. At least that is what I have read as obviously no experience as I don't have Connie, yet.
 
I recently added highway pegs to the T-Rex bars on my 2011. Found some cheapo pegs and mounts on amazon, powder coated them flat black, bought stainless hardware, and fixed them in the forward mounting threads for the aluminum sliders. I'm 6'0" and 190lbs for reference, and after about 1000mi of usage I'm quite happy with them. I originally went with some generic peg clamps, but they didn't feel solid and I wasn't happy with the look.

Parts used:
 

Attachments

  • T-Rex Highway Pegs 1.jpg
    T-Rex Highway Pegs 1.jpg
    189 KB · Views: 499
  • T-Rex Highway Pegs 2.jpg
    T-Rex Highway Pegs 2.jpg
    130.4 KB · Views: 616
  • T-Rex Highway Pegs 3.jpg
    T-Rex Highway Pegs 3.jpg
    153.9 KB · Views: 419
  • T-Rex Highway Pegs 5.jpg
    T-Rex Highway Pegs 5.jpg
    122.3 KB · Views: 402
  • T-Rex Highway Pegs 6.jpg
    T-Rex Highway Pegs 6.jpg
    164.1 KB · Views: 527
that looks like nice work leland. you are about same height/weight as me. the position looks similar to the placement on the inside support bracket on canyon cages. Did you use the mounting bolts that came with the peg brackets, or did you have to get new ones with thread size and pitch of original bolts but longer and not with big head? Only thing I would be concerned about is in closed position if you push down on end looks like the whole thing could rotate? thread lock for sure. but even with that I wonder if way to "index" the bracket so it can't rotate? what is the odd washer that amazon picture shows going inside the bracket? just provide tension to the peg swinging up and down?
 
Thanks, I think it turned out really clean. I tossed all of the nuts and bolts that came with the peg brackets. I bought (2) M8x1.25 2" socket head bolts and a couple washers for the brackets into the crash bar and (2) 3/8x24 11/4" socket head bolts and matching acorn nuts for the pegs to the brackets. I will probably replace the 3/8x24 socket heads with button heads and acorn nuts in black chrome. Also, I ended up having to cut down all the bolts by an 1/8th of an inch or so. I thread-locked and torqued the bracket bolts pretty hard, haven't had any issues with them spinning in place. If you really wanted to rotate them I'm sure you could, but I've been kicking them open and closed for a while now and they haven't budged. Those are spring washers in the amazon kit, yup they provide tension for swinging the foot peg.
 
Last edited:
Leland:
Do you do your own powder coating? I ask because I recently began working at a bicycle factory that does a lot of it. Wondering what type/grade powder you are using for m/c parts. I just now ordered the T-Rex bars for my 2019 and want to emulate your setup. I have spare Harley-size passenger /highway pegs that I think will work if I buy the mounts you bought. Thanks for the help:):):)
 
Last edited:
Leland:
Do you do your own powder coating? I ask because I recently began working at a bicycle factory that does a lot of it. Wondering what type/grade powder you are using for m/c parts. I just now ordered the T-Rex bars for my 2019 and want to emulate your setup. I have spare Harley-size passenger /highway pegs that I think will work if I buy the mounts you bought. Thanks for the help:):):)
I do my powder coating with an Eastwood benchtop kit. The powder isn't anything special, just what's available on their website. I attached some pictures for reference. -- I don't have any experience with industrial coating equipment so I'm not sure if this is helpful/applicable. I'd ask around, it sounds like you've got a really nice hook-up there. Best of luck!
 

Attachments

  • Powder 1.jpg
    Powder 1.jpg
    171.7 KB · Views: 158
  • Powder 2.jpg
    Powder 2.jpg
    171.2 KB · Views: 162
Leland:
I was interested in your DIY powdercoating setup because I have only dealt with the industrial setup at work. I went to the Eastwood site

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pcs-250-dual-voltage-powder-coating-gun-starter-kit.html

and saw an inexpensive ($200) starter kit. What I have been looking for is a source for small amounts of powder. I can use our setup at work after hours but have to supply my own powder and ours comes in huge bags-inside-boxes. Too much $$$$!!!

Eastwood seems to have what I want for small amounts of powder (like $8-12 per pound), thanks! I briefly worked in that dept. when I started at the factory a year ago and have a friend who can help me along now that I can get the powder.

What type of oven are you using? (This DIY powdercoating discussion might need its own thread.)

I will be ordering the mounts you bought from Amazon so we'll see what I need to do when the cages and mounts arrive. Now to find that Givi trunk I need and get Phil's rack....:):):)
 
Leland:
I was interested in your DIY powdercoating setup because I have only dealt with the industrial setup at work. I went to the Eastwood site

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pcs-250-dual-voltage-powder-coating-gun-starter-kit.html

and saw an inexpensive ($200) starter kit. What I have been looking for is a source for small amounts of powder. I can use our setup at work after hours but have to supply my own powder and ours comes in huge bags-inside-boxes. Too much $$$$!!!

Eastwood seems to have what I want for small amounts of powder (like $8-12 per pound), thanks! I briefly worked in that dept. when I started at the factory a year ago and have a friend who can help me along now that I can get the powder.

What type of oven are you using? (This DIY powdercoating discussion might need its own thread.)

I will be ordering the mounts you bought from Amazon so we'll see what I need to do when the cages and mounts arrive. Now to find that Givi trunk I need and get Phil's rack....:):):)
Oh yeah if that's the case then the starter kit may be worth your while. It's been great to have around, the parts turn out really nice for a DIY deal.

The kit came with an oven (for $299 I think?), it's in the first picture of my previous post ^. I've been looking around and I cannot find that same offering, doesn't seem like the ovens are being sold anywhere right now. You could probably pick up a standard toaster oven from amazon ($110ish) and that would work the same, just needs to be big enough to hang parts and maintain 450°F.

So long as you have an air compressor you're golden!
 
I used a cheap one my friend has and baked things in my old summer kitchen oven.
 
I was just curious about the oven in case I start doing this after retirement. Our monster overhead-conveyor gas-fired oven will cover my needs for now. I hate everything about my current household oven except its convection feature, so maybe by then it will be ready for the garage or "summer kitchen." I like the sound of that; it sounds better than "grill on the back deck."

Today I finished the install of my new T-Rex crash bars, so now I want to move on to highway peg install, as noted above in this thread by Leland.
 
Last edited:
I just installed the engine guards and luggage guards this week from T-Rex on my 2015 Connie. No cutting or removal of plastics was necessary. The included instructions were a little rough, but with help of some YouTube videos I got it done!
.+10 on that, sir! Good product, crappy directions! The printed directions say start w/ right side, the t-rex youtube video says start on the left (I started on the left). The printed directions show the stepped spacer for the bottom rod going on the left side; the video doesn't say (it goes on the right, at least on my '19). I had to use a die to clean up the threads on the supplied longer bolts inside the fairing before they would thread in. And finally, I highly recommend using a hex-key socket on a long ratchet extension to remove and install those bolts, not the t-handle hex they recommend.

Now that they are firmly mounted and test-ridden, I plan to copy this set-up:
I recently added highway pegs to the T-Rex bars on my 2011. Found some cheapo pegs and mounts on amazon, powder coated them flat black, bought stainless hardware, and fixed them in the forward mounting threads for the aluminum sliders. I'm 6'0" and 190lbs for reference, and after about 1000mi of usage I'm quite happy with them. I originally went with some generic peg clamps, but they didn't feel solid and I wasn't happy with the look.

Parts used:
(See post #23 for photos). I am ordering the mounts in chrome and using Kuryakyn's "Longhorn" iso-pegs (Part #8024) in chrome also. They are 5 3/4" long, which I hope will get my feet around the bulge in the fairing a little better, since I'm only 5-10 with a 32" inseam. If the chrome is too much bling I can always go to flat-black powder later. Will report back when my parts arrive and I have done a little test-riding.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WFL
Top