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Looking for ZZR1200 Alternator
- Thread starter Bud
- Start date
Least expensive (but looks good) on Ebay.
Would a ZG-1200 alternator work? Voyager XII
Kawasaki Zzr1200 ZZR 1200 Alternator Drive 2003 1082a for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Kawasaki Zzr1200 ZZR 1200 Alternator Drive 2003 1082a at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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Would a ZG-1200 alternator work? Voyager XII
1995 Kawasaki ZG1200 ZG 1200 OEM Alternator Generator Stator | eBay
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Doubtful that many would have one lying around and seeing your post.
Assuming you want it for more Amps?
Someone else could tell if the ZG-1200 versions would work but look at the difference in condition.
ie; The ZZR looks to be in far better condition.
Here's another (or mebbe the same) ZZR / less of a good deal (+$100) / comparable condition to the one I sent earlier.
Assuming you want it for more Amps?
Someone else could tell if the ZG-1200 versions would work but look at the difference in condition.
ie; The ZZR looks to be in far better condition.
Here's another (or mebbe the same) ZZR / less of a good deal (+$100) / comparable condition to the one I sent earlier.
Kawasaki Zzr1200 ZZR 1200 Alternator Drive 2003 1082a for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Kawasaki Zzr1200 ZZR 1200 Alternator Drive 2003 1082a at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Thinking out loud here....
Like with the fork tube thread that's current, didnt they (ma kawasaki) up the amperage as the units got newer? I thought there was something like a 20-40amp jump somewhere around 98...
Anybody have any Intel on the situation
Like with the fork tube thread that's current, didnt they (ma kawasaki) up the amperage as the units got newer? I thought there was something like a 20-40amp jump somewhere around 98...
Anybody have any Intel on the situation
There are some ZZR1200 alternators on ebay - cheaper than they used to be back when there were more C10 guys wanting to upgrade capacity.
I don't remember the amps, but you might be able to back into that number with the watts. I think the ZZR put out just over 600w IIRC compared to the C10 OEM of 400.4w max.
Here's a link with more info: https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/zzr1200-zrx100-alternator.2088/
Here's even more info from waaaaaay back that forum user BigC posted (that I saved all this time just for you
)
OEM C10
System Ratings 28.6 Amps 14 volts 400.4 watts
Stock
Headlamp ( 55/60 low beam) 55 watts
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17 watts
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8 watts
Ignition/misc 21 watts
Stock Total 133 watts
Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54 watts
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48 watts
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4watts
Neutral lamp 3.4 watts
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4 watts
Worst case loading 296.2 watts
I don't remember the amps, but you might be able to back into that number with the watts. I think the ZZR put out just over 600w IIRC compared to the C10 OEM of 400.4w max.
Here's a link with more info: https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/zzr1200-zrx100-alternator.2088/
Here's even more info from waaaaaay back that forum user BigC posted (that I saved all this time just for you
)OEM C10
System Ratings 28.6 Amps 14 volts 400.4 watts
Stock
Headlamp ( 55/60 low beam) 55 watts
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17 watts
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8 watts
Ignition/misc 21 watts
Stock Total 133 watts
Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54 watts
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48 watts
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4watts
Neutral lamp 3.4 watts
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4 watts
Worst case loading 296.2 watts
Bud, looks like you'd gain 200 watts by changing the alternator.
My questions remains; Why are you looking for more Amps?
Bye the bye; Many don't realize that if you replace "all" the bulbs with LED's you'd free up a lot of Watts too.
I don't know what the number would be; Stasch noted "Stock Total of 133 watt", and "Worst case loading of 296.2 watts".
With LED's everywhere, (Just guessing) I'd bet those numbers would drop to {mebbe} 50-100 watts lower.
{I suspect that a smart guy will calculate and give us a real number}.
My questions remains; Why are you looking for more Amps?
Bye the bye; Many don't realize that if you replace "all" the bulbs with LED's you'd free up a lot of Watts too.
I don't know what the number would be; Stasch noted "Stock Total of 133 watt", and "Worst case loading of 296.2 watts".
With LED's everywhere, (Just guessing) I'd bet those numbers would drop to {mebbe} 50-100 watts lower.
{I suspect that a smart guy will calculate and give us a real number}.
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This bike has a trailer hitch and I have a trailer, so at some point there is that addition. I've got heated jacket, pants liners and gloves. May have a gps running or something else plugged into a 12 volt socket. It's got LED headlight and instrument lights already. I've not checked the turn signals or other bulbs to see what could be saved there. I admit to liking a bit of Tim the tool man power, so there's that. I don't think I'll ever get rid of this bike. My son might after I'm gone, but I won't.
I had to chuckle. That loading chart looked pretty familiar. It was one I put together a looong time ago. Ignore the poor formatting and justification. I just found it again and pulled it from an old ASCII text file.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Let's put it this way . . .
Headlamp (assume stock low beam) 55w
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17w
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16w
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16w
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8w
Ignition/misc. 21w
_______
Stock Total 133w
The above total is the absolute minimum the bike will use when running in
stock trim.
The above figures haven't allowed for intermittent loading caused by the:
Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54w
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48w
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4w
Neutral lamp 3.4w
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4w
_______
Total 163.2w
The Service manual lists the output of the alternator as 28.6A @ 14 volts
@ 6000 RPM. This equates to a calculated output of 400.4 watts. But I
gotta ask, "Who rides around at 6000 RPM all the time?" Realistically,
I'd estimate the real-world output of the alternator at 300 watts, maybe
350 max.
With everything running and the bike is on high beam, the new total is 296w. This leaves approximately 54w of 'free' power. Realistically, if you cut out everything in the intermittent loading list but the high beam, you wind up with approx. 208w of useable power, and this is the area where most of the gadget-freaks seem to be loading the bike (guilty as charged).
FWIW - there is no history of repeated alternator/regulator failures. They seem to be pretty durable.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Let's put it this way . . .
Headlamp (assume stock low beam) 55w
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17w
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16w
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16w
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8w
Ignition/misc. 21w
_______
Stock Total 133w
The above total is the absolute minimum the bike will use when running in
stock trim.
The above figures haven't allowed for intermittent loading caused by the:
Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54w
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48w
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4w
Neutral lamp 3.4w
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4w
_______
Total 163.2w
The Service manual lists the output of the alternator as 28.6A @ 14 volts
@ 6000 RPM. This equates to a calculated output of 400.4 watts. But I
gotta ask, "Who rides around at 6000 RPM all the time?" Realistically,
I'd estimate the real-world output of the alternator at 300 watts, maybe
350 max.
With everything running and the bike is on high beam, the new total is 296w. This leaves approximately 54w of 'free' power. Realistically, if you cut out everything in the intermittent loading list but the high beam, you wind up with approx. 208w of useable power, and this is the area where most of the gadget-freaks seem to be loading the bike (guilty as charged).
FWIW - there is no history of repeated alternator/regulator failures. They seem to be pretty durable.
See, I told Ya'll there was a smart "guy" out there. 
So, "Guy" if someone did go to all LED's how many watts would be freed up?
Ride safe, Ted
So, "Guy" if someone did go to all LED's how many watts would be freed up?
Ride safe, Ted
See, I told Ya'll there was a smart "guy" out there.
So, "Guy" if someone did go to all LED's how many watts would be freed up?
Ride safe, Ted
Lotsa variables and assumptions would have to be made to come up with an āeducatedā calculation on that oneā¦ā¦ especially considering the number of LED lamps available on the market today. If I had a working ammeter that was good for above 10 amps, I could use my own bike as a comparison for the figures I came up with way back based on stock numbers. With the exception of the instrument bulbs, all of my lamps have been changed over to LEDs, so measuring the current draw would give you a fairly accurate comparison.
Well, almost.
My ancient Radio Shack multimeter uses a 1/2A fuse to protect ALL the ammeter functions ā even the 10A max circuit (actually 9.99A). Whoda thunked. I had one spare replacement fuse left, so figured Iād give it a shot. I mean, what could go wrong? (Jimmyās World phrase, if you follow his Youtube antics).
I separated the heavy +batt lead bullet connector that connects the main battery red/white lead on the top of the starter solenoid relay to the bikeās harness, turned on the ignition, then completed the circuit using the multimeter leads. On a good day, if the total draw should have less than the meter's 9.99A limitation; the dash lights and other lamps should of come on with no drama. This apparently wasnāt one of those good days ā the fuse popped.
Excuse: I forgot that I had installed COP coils, and they apparently draw more current than the two stock OEM coils ā or ā the inrush was enough to take out the fuse in my meter.
Poop!
I have more fuses on order, so when they come in I will try it again after turning off the kill switch to eliminate the ignition circuit before I complete the circuit.
Stay tunedā¦ā¦ā¦ā¦.
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Muchas thanky...
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
I'll try to post a complete summary table when I get a chance (maybe in a more appropriate thread on the specific topic), but I am switching all my lighting over to LEDs this winter, and finding it cuts the existing load by about half. For stock, I get the roughly the same as those of you above: 140watt base load and 303 watt worst case (brakes, turn, turn indicator, neutral indicator, and cooling fan). With the LEDs I used, that drops to about 70watt base and 125watt worst case. I was purusing used ZZR alternators on ebay, as my bike already has some extra electrical (PIAA lights, another set of lights, etc), but looking at how much I've reduced with the lighting, I think I've got tons to spare.
FYI, it does appear they designed the C10 with some surplus capacity for anticipated accessory loads. I did the same calculation for my ZX600-C, which as a 20-amp rated stator (at 10,000RPM!!!!), for 280 watt total output (at 10,000RPM!!!). I wonder what it's doing at 5,000rpm cruising? Anyway, the stock loading is REALLY similar to the Connie; same headlight, running light, tail, turn, basically the same ignition and cooling fan, etc. For it, I get 138.5watt base, and 301.5watt worst case, which actually exceeds the stock output (at 10,000RPM!!!). I think this shows that the worst-case load is expected to exceed generating output, as you're not going to be sitting with turn signal on, brakes on, and fan running for very long, so you can dip into battery reserve at stoplights for a few minutes with no problem at all.
FWIW, the ZX600-C is also has accessory bullet leads (behind the right rear side cover, same location as the Connie), which are fed by a dedicated 10A always-on circuit, so they even anticipated some accessory use on it.
FYI, it does appear they designed the C10 with some surplus capacity for anticipated accessory loads. I did the same calculation for my ZX600-C, which as a 20-amp rated stator (at 10,000RPM!!!!), for 280 watt total output (at 10,000RPM!!!). I wonder what it's doing at 5,000rpm cruising? Anyway, the stock loading is REALLY similar to the Connie; same headlight, running light, tail, turn, basically the same ignition and cooling fan, etc. For it, I get 138.5watt base, and 301.5watt worst case, which actually exceeds the stock output (at 10,000RPM!!!). I think this shows that the worst-case load is expected to exceed generating output, as you're not going to be sitting with turn signal on, brakes on, and fan running for very long, so you can dip into battery reserve at stoplights for a few minutes with no problem at all.
FWIW, the ZX600-C is also has accessory bullet leads (behind the right rear side cover, same location as the Connie), which are fed by a dedicated 10A always-on circuit, so they even anticipated some accessory use on it.
I'm not a smart guy, but I used to work with one. He'd spent time working on LEDs, and he told me the typical ratio was 8-10x more light per wayt for a good quality LED compared to a halogen.
For headlight, I'd go with a 20W or 30W LED H4 replacement. You'll save 20-30W of power, and get LOTS more light.
The problem is that not all LED sellers honestly advertise their wattage.
For headlight, I'd go with a 20W or 30W LED H4 replacement. You'll save 20-30W of power, and get LOTS more light.
The problem is that not all LED sellers honestly advertise their wattage.
Yes, especially on Amazon, the Lumen ratings (along with Ah for batteries) is absurd. Some of them are inflated by order of magnitude.
I bought this headlight. I'd read good things about it elsewhere, and have been running one in my 600 for the last two years, and been pretty happy with it. The beam pattern isn't as uniform as the halogen, but the brightness more than makes up for it. My 600 has nearly the same headlight housing (just a slightly different shape), so I'm pretty sure it will give very similar results. It is rated at 38 watts, and has a built-in fan, so that gives some indication that it's putting out some serious light, and takes longevity seriously too.
H4 LED Headlight Bulb | Motorcycle Lights | Brightest h4 LED Bulbs
www.cyclopsadventuresports.com
I got the rest of the bulbs from superbrightleds.com They had the most selection and seemed to have realistic specifications, and actual data (lumens, current draw, color temp, etc), rather than the glossy marketing of stuff on Amazon, etc.
Seth, many of us are using the Beamtech in our C-14's and it works great. I know that some also use it in their C-10's with same result.
The reason I mention it is we know that the Beamtech woks and they cost far less than the ones you posted.
(costs $32 for 2 bulbs)
By the way, the Beamtech has a small light diverter on it's upper/Low Beam light.
That diverter is pretty important as it prevents blinding oncoming traffic.
Check to ensure that there is a light diverter on the Cyclops?
www.ebay.com
Ride safe, Ted
PS: See discussion; https://forum.concours.org/index.ph...ght-bulb-install-i-like-it.54624/#post-678978
The reason I mention it is we know that the Beamtech woks and they cost far less than the ones you posted.
(costs $32 for 2 bulbs)
By the way, the Beamtech has a small light diverter on it's upper/Low Beam light.
That diverter is pretty important as it prevents blinding oncoming traffic.
Check to ensure that there is a light diverter on the Cyclops?
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Ride safe, Ted
PS: See discussion; https://forum.concours.org/index.ph...ght-bulb-install-i-like-it.54624/#post-678978
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Yes, the Cyclops has a hood over the low-beam LEDs to provide the correct beam pattern down away from oncoming drivers.
The beamtech looks pretty good. Not quite sure what wattage, though?
The beamtech looks pretty good. Not quite sure what wattage, though?
Specs say 25 watts.
That's because we have short attention spans and are easily distracted with anything motorcycle related!
I'm a frequent offender Jorge. The conversation is good. No complaints here.
Jorge;/I'm probably the originator of this tread jack. (see post #8)
But Stasch started it. <Evil grin> (see post #7).
However; I think it's ok to discuss other than the Alternator; As Bud asked the question (and we found several alternators for him) in Nov. of 2022?
Ride safe, Ted
But Stasch started it. <Evil grin>
(see post #7).However; I think it's ok to discuss other than the Alternator; As Bud asked the question (and we found several alternators for him) in Nov. of 2022?
Ride safe, Ted
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au contraire - I just responded to the Beamtech post as an innocent mindless follower, too easily led astray to this ruinous end.But Stasch started it. <Evil grin>
....yeah Ted, it's all YOUR fault! Beers are on you at the national, for all who responded...lol
This is my storeeee and I'm stickin' to it; His post is whut got my feeble mind off track. 
See post #7. (err Below)
ie; Watts Used {"by Stasch"}
Ride safe, Ted
OEM C10
System Ratings 28.6 Amps 14 volts 400.4 watts
Stock
Headlamp ( 55/60 low beam) 55 watts
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17 watts
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8 watts
Ignition/misc 21 watts
Stock Total 133 watts
Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54 watts
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48 watts
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4watts
Neutral lamp 3.4 watts
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4 watts
Worst case loading 296.2 watts
See post #7. (err Below)
ie; Watts Used {"by Stasch"}
Ride safe, Ted
OEM C10
System Ratings 28.6 Amps 14 volts 400.4 watts
Stock
Headlamp ( 55/60 low beam) 55 watts
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17 watts
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8 watts
Ignition/misc 21 watts
Stock Total 133 watts
Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54 watts
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48 watts
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4watts
Neutral lamp 3.4 watts
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4 watts
Worst case loading 296.2 watts
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Err Wronggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg!!
I quit drinking so I'll have a steak please.
