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C10: Coolant change process confusion

BrianG

Member
Member
I am posting after reading the service manual, searching the Chalkdust doc, and looking at the tech pages, trying to figure out how to do a coolant change on my '95 C10. Manual says "Remove the drain plugs...after removal of the exhaust pipes". Really?
The article in the tech pages contains a photo that shows the air bleed bolt but does clarify the "removal of the exhaust pipes" question. Will this become obvious once I get the belly and side fairing panels off? I am mechanically capable once I have a clue but I prefer having that clue before I start the process.
Edit: I just found a video on YT that shows disconnecting a hose down by the water pump. This has me more confused than ever.
 
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There is a drain plug on a pipe at the bottom of the system near the headers. There is a bleed valve on top of the system under the seat near the frame. There is another bleed valve on the water pump housing. Open radiator cap then the bottom plug, wait a bit, open the top valve, let drain. Depending if you want to flush, close pugs, fill, drain air from bleed valves, top last, install cap run it up to operating temp. drain, repeat with you choice of coolant. That's all off the top of my head as I think I remember it, the main is you don't need to remove any pipes or hoses.
 
B. I just did this to my C-10 2nd pipe over on the very bottom is the drain pipe. You got to really look for it. Take the plug out & drain. Pull the tank back a little bit & take the radiator cap off. After draining the old antifreeze fill with distilled water and bring to a heat cycle. I did this 3 times and filled back with Honda Line blue antifreeze. Your bleed screw is on the bottom left side of the water pump. Look in your manual. If you do not have one buy one. Add your antifreeze back slowly and as you add shake the handlebars to get the antifreeze to all those small pockets. After filling with new antifreeze you will want to take it around the block. Let it sit & cool and loosing your bleed screw a few times to get the air out. This is a most tedious process. But it works. You might want to replace all the hoses. I did and it is not a fun job. Can be done just not fun.. If you have any more questions someone will answer. Lot of great guys on this site. I'am new myself and have learned a lot from these older guys. Not saying Strawboss is old just wise . My bike runs great because of all these helpful people on this site and I'am grateful to all for their help.

Dean
 
Thanks guys. Honda coolant is on my "to get" list. I will do the coolant change sometime this winter when the bike is in my workshop for oil & filters.
 
B. I just did this to my C-10 2nd pipe over on the very bottom is the drain pipe. You got to really look for it. Take the plug out & drain. Pull the tank back a little bit & take the radiator cap off. After draining the old antifreeze fill with distilled water and bring to a heat cycle. I did this 3 times and filled back with Honda Line blue antifreeze. Your bleed screw is on the bottom left side of the water pump. Look in your manual. If you do not have one buy one. Add your antifreeze back slowly and as you add shake the handlebars to get the antifreeze to all those small pockets. After filling with new antifreeze you will want to take it around the block. Let it sit & cool and loosing your bleed screw a few times to get the air out. This is a most tedious process. But it works. You might want to replace all the hoses. I did and it is not a fun job. Can be done just not fun.. If you have any more questions someone will answer. Lot of great guys on this site. I'am new myself and have learned a lot from these older guys. Not saying Strawboss is old just wise . My bike runs great because of all these helpful people on this site and I'am grateful to all for their help.

Dean
Join for the bike, stay for the people....(even ted) lol
 
I’d recommend replacing your hoses if it hasn’t been done in the past. Especially the little short one at the front bottom behind the headers, that’s the one that always seems to let go. Also consider replacing coolant log seals and if you haven’t done it, lock-tite the seal in the water pump.

All the above are things that bit me in the butt when I had my 2002.
 
A hose and clamp set has arrived from Murph. I now have the lower fairings off and am shocked that the hoses look as good as they do. No cracks, bulges, or signs of leaks. The pipes look in worse shape than the hoses. How concerned should I be about pipe damage? I ask because I attempted to purchase just the hose mentioned by @motocommuter but could not find one available so am really concerned about not being able to replace a pipe. If I proceed I plan to cut the hoses off rather than twist and pull, although I see one that looks extremely difficult to get to.
 
Yeah, to say it's a bit difficult to get to is a bit of an understatement. Strange, 2 years ago, I found that the bottom front hose was the easiest to buy, it was everywhere, what wasn't was the factory top molded and pre-bent host at the top of the radiator, I used an autozone part from a car. If you can get a long flat head screwdriver in to where a hose butts up against the engine while grasping the body of the hose and carefully twist the screwdriver while pulling back and forth on the body of the hose is a technique I use, again, not always easy when it's a tight fit, doable though.
 
Yea, I've used the screwdriver technique on cars, decades ago, as a poor young lad. Things were built simpler and more substantial back then. I don't have any sense about how substantial the pipes are on the C10 and definitely haven't developed my mechanical abilities beyond the simplest of projects (oil changes, spark plug replacement). I have a brother who does a lot more mechanical work than I do who suggests removing the clamp and then slicing the hose lengthwise and peeling it off rather than try to pry and pull. We're different though. He'll jump in with both feet and figure it out as he goes. I want a beginning-to-end vision before I start.
 
Both methods work, it's what works easiest for you on the C-10 that counts here.:) I have bigger hands too. If it comes down to not being able to find a hose, I very much doubt it will, but if it does, 1" automotive heater hose works, but I would say only in an emergency like I had.
 
I have hoses. My concerns are getting the old ones off and the new ones one, and damaging a pipe in the process. I suspect that finding a replacement pipe would be unlikely. Not knowing just how substantial the pipes are has me very concerned. My decision is whether I tackle the project or risk a hose failure instead. As said, the condition of the hoses looks surprising good. I doubt they would have been replace under routine maintenance which is all I have had done up to the point where the local dealers refused to work on it (about 40,000 mi.) It has 48,000 now.
 
I understand. I'm lucky in that I know my bikes history as I've owned it since new and changed the coolant every 2 years, I know every drip. every system and every hose, connector, bolt and everything I ever replaced and what I used. I went 20 years and 109,000 miles before mine finally blew out, and, it was the bottom front one, like you say too though, my other hoses looked VERY good.
 
Yup that one right behind the header. Overheats and leaks. Day 2 of a week long trip. A section of 1 inch heater hose from Napa. Yes it can be replaced with just the bikes tool kit. I replaced all the hoses 2 years later, no leaks.

Carefully cut the hose without scoring the pipe to remove. Use the lubricant of your choice and slide the hose onto the side that has the longest straight section, then slide it back onto the other end. Make sure you reinstall the tyrap to pull the hose away from the header.
 
Thanks all! I just turned the heater on in my work area with the intention of starting this project after I finish my third cup of coffee and get caught up on email.
 
Good luck, keep us posted, many times for me it all sounded intimidating, but, I dug in and did it, usually after a few questions here and after buying a Kawasaki shop manual.
 
Upper hoses are done. The lower pipe is out. So far I have just stared at the hose behind the headers, hoping for a vision of the best way to tackle it.

I think I am glad I decided to take on this project. Removing the tank exposed a fuel hose that was kinked and rigid (I won't use the clear stuff again). I now have new hose, a new inline filter, and I replaced the plugs while there.
 
Wow. That hose behind the headers was tough. It's on though! It's time for a celebratory beer.

Thank you all for your advice and encouragement.
 
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Yup that one right behind the header. Overheats and leaks. Day 2 of a week long trip. A section of 1 inch heater hose from Napa. Yes it can be replaced with just the bikes tool kit. I replaced all the hoses 2 years later, no leaks.

Carefully cut the hose without scoring the pipe to remove. Use the lubricant of your choice and slide the hose onto the side that has the longest straight section, then slide it back onto the other end. Make sure you reinstall the tyrap to pull the hose away from the header.

I just want to confirm the location of the tie. The kit from Murph contained two cable ties but I only encountered one that secured the two lower pipes together, effectively securing the outer one away from the exhaust pipe. Anyone know where the second tie is supposed to go? A spare perhaps?
 
Got her flushed and filled. Rolled her out and fired her up for a for a heat cycle and coolant level check and while I was standing there the headlight went out. Geesh! Maybe it's time to put this bike out to pasture permanently.

No leaks though. :rolleyes:
 
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