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2005 ZG1000-A20

davbzz8879

Guest
Guest
This is my first Kawasaki and so far I really like it. Changed all the fluids after I bought it and the oil level has me baffled. Never had/seen one with the oil level sight glass. Heres my problem/question: refilled after oil and filter change, leveled oil to top of sight glass. Ran it for a minute, shut it off and NO oil is showing in the glass. I added oil to the bottom line, cranked again for a minute, low again so added more oil. A few minutes later I notice it’s overfilled so suck some oil out until level is correct. This time I crank and watch and the sight glass is empty while running, wait a few minutes and see that oil slowly comes back and fills the sight glass. I’m guessing this is normal? Also guessing I should only check oil level when engine is cold or wait several minutes after engine cut off?
Thanks
 
Welcome to the group and see you are a new member +++!

Oil level should be checked:
  1. Engine off - let oil drain down a couple minutes
  2. Flat, level surface
  3. Motorcycle on center stand - not the side stand
Note it’s normal when engine is running to have little to no oil in the sight glass. And do not overfill, will cause bubbles and poor lubrication

Where you located? SE PA here.

Once again - welcome!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Long time thing (this is). Most people change the oil and filter, dump in the right amount (make sure you take out BOTH oil plugs)- yes, two), and call it good. Make sure you put IN the right amount, check in on the center stand 5 minutes after shutting it off, then forget about it. No one really seems to know where the oil goes after that, but it's there... ;-)
 
Two plugs?? Didn’t know that! No wonder the oil didn’t look so clean after it ran. I guess I would have still over filled since I didn’t know about a second plug. Thanks for your help.
 
Welcome to the group and see you are a new member +++!

Oil level should be checked:
  1. Engine off - let oil drain down a couple minutes
  2. Flat, level surface
  3. Motorcycle on center stand - not the side stand
Note it’s normal when engine is running to have little to no oil in the sight glass. And do not overfill, will cause bubbles and poor lubrication

Where you located? SE PA here.

Once again - welcome!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Thanks, I did have it on center stand—at least I got that right! I’m in Tuscaloosa, AL

Thanks.
 
Thanks, I did have it on center stand—at least I got that right! I’m in Tuscaloosa, AL

Thanks.
Lots of info in the member library, I'm sure.
Tuscalosa? Don't forget the RTE in October near Barber and keep an eye on the events calendar. David Hamill's your AAD and he's working hard!
Ron
 
Long time thing (this is). Most people change the oil and filter, dump in the right amount (make sure you take out BOTH oil plugs)- yes, two), and call it good. Make sure you put IN the right amount, check in on the center stand 5 minutes after shutting it off, then forget about it. No one really seems to know where the oil goes after that, but it's there... ;-)

Ron203 is correct. I owned a 2002 C10 for 9 years and 98,000 miles. I always put in the amount specified, and didn't bother checking it until the next oil change. Changing the oil filter on the C10 is a PITA because you have to drop the bottom pan; because of that, I bothered to change the filter every other oil change. Some folks won't recommend that, but it worked for me. When I sold the C10 two months ago, it had 116,000 miles and was running great.

Welcome to the Concours family. Loved my old C10; wish I had kept it, but no room in the garage. Oh, well...now I love my C14. :D
 
Welcome to COG.
You’ll like it here. A wealth of technical knowledge and poor boy engineering on here

I bought an 06 3 years ago and went thru the same learning curve on the oil level.😳😬
Check the sight glass per SOP.
And then it’s gone…
where does it go?!?!? ( It defies gravity)
🤣🤣🤣
Best Regards
Bob
 
Two plugs?? Didn’t know that! No wonder the oil didn’t look so clean after it ran. I guess I would have still over filled since I didn’t know about a second plug. Thanks for your help.
I’m still not sure where that second plug is! The picture in the online Owners Manual is not very clear.
 
Next key now that you know where the second plug is; remembering to replace / torque the second drain plug. Muscle memory overrides common sense / procedure at times like this “there’s a second plug oh - there it is” and forgetting to torque can happen.

Informing from a friends experience….
 
Towards the front of the engine next to the oil tube going to the oil cooler. It is somewhat hidden next to the tube

Both are 17-mm bolts and are interchangeable. I used to locate it where the oil line does a zig-zag. I recommend you change the crush washer often, if not every time. (I used a new one every other oil change or so). Murph's has these: https://murphskits.com/oil-drain-plug-gasket-1/
 
Thanks for all the help. I’ve changed all the fluids, replaced spark plugs, drained carburetors and gas tank. Put fresh non-ethanol gas in tank. My new problems may be related—when the choke is on, the engine will rev up high and there seems to be no way to find a happy spot. It’s either revving too high or dies. Second problem: engine runs good but feels like the throttle sticks as I change gears. This evening I made a ten mile run and at the end it would not idle—staying around 3 to 4K rpms. Ideas? This bike had been sitting for probably 3 years if not more. 2005 with 25K miles.
 
Do you have freeplay on the throttle. With the engine off twist the throttle slowly and you should feel some freeplay before it pulls the cable. Twist more about 1/4 throttle and let go it should snap back to throttle off.

These bikes have two throttle cables, one pull and another push to shut the throttle down. If there isn't enough freeplay between these competing cables it could hold throttle open and not allow the carb linkage to go to the throttle hard stop.
 
Thanks for all the help. I’ve changed all the fluids, replaced spark plugs, drained carburetors and gas tank. Put fresh non-ethanol gas in tank. My new problems may be related—when the choke is on, the engine will rev up high and there seems to be no way to find a happy spot. It’s either revving too high or dies. Second problem: engine runs good but feels like the throttle sticks as I change gears. This evening I made a ten mile run and at the end it would not idle—staying around 3 to 4K rpms. Ideas? This bike had been sitting for probably 3 years if not more. 2005 with 25K miles.
That’s the challenge of purchasing used you have to take a little time and build the relationship up. Did previous owners say anything about storage - was it purposely prepared for such a lengthy lack of use?

First thing first you are completely shutting off the choke right after warmed up?

How does it run under throttle? Any vibration in the engine?

If it were me - get a C10 FSM then:
  1. I would check air filter first, make sure not clogged full of junk.
    • The air-box is plastic, hopefully no mice chewed in.
  2. See the plugs what do they look like - dark from flooded? White and shiny from lean condition
  3. Check for dry rotted or unconnected vacuum lines
  4. Check fuel level in carb bowls.
    • Diagnose why fuel level so high.
    • Carb kits are not expensive
The above should get you into a better position - My initial thought is the carbs are a mess. Floats may not be floating / stuck or needles are stuck from storage ‘patina’ gunking up the mechanicals.
 
If you decide to rebuild your carbs, I have a set (4) of Murph's carb rebuild kits - brand new, never opened, never used - you can have for $60 shipped to your door.

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Lots of info in the member library, I'm sure.
Tuscalosa? Don't forget the RTE in October near Barber and keep an eye on the events calendar. David Hamill's your AAD and he's working hard!
Ron
Hi davbzz8879,

Thanks Ron!

David Hamil (aka Road Runner) here. Welcome! The RTE event is at the Bluegrass BBQ in Moody, AL on Oct. 23 at 11:30 am. Hope you can make it!

See you soon, I hope!

David
 
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