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55W VVME HID Conversion Kit

slybonesjesse

Sport Tourer
Purchased this about 6mo ago and never installed it. Its the 55W kit. 4300K Color Temp. Brand new, never installed, in the box. Will post a pic shortly. At this point I think I want to do it on the truck instead. But that uses 9004 not H4. I thought about purchasing 9004 replacement bulbs only, but the harness is also sightly different for the bulb connector. Although that is easy enough to work around. So its either $40 for 9004 bulbs only and hack the harness, or $80 for a complete new kit with right harness and then get $40 for this one. Either way I am spending another $40 for this. So I offer this one up for sale. 2003 Concours, 65K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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How about a trade? I may have the ones you're looking for. I mistakenly bought the 9004-3 high/low kit...or mistakenly received the 9004 kit as a mis-shipment. You wanna trade outright? I'm pretty sure they're the 55W 9004kit you're looking for, but these are 5000K not 4300 as I wanted bright white. Shoot me a note, let me know. http://www.millerized.com I'll be in the garage
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COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g
 
Trade sounds fine, assuming..... When I read vvme website they have a 9004 hi/low kit which is one HID beam ( low ) and one Halogen beam ( high ) called 9004-2, versus the Bi-Xenon kit which is 2 HID beams called 9004-3. These are the B-Xenon kit that I have, and that is what I want. You mention "9004-3 high/low" kit. 9004-3 is the right PN, but high/low desc is what they use for the other kit. -- So please confirm 55W 9004-3 Bi-Xenon kit and I will trade. I am ok with 5000K as long as your ok with 4300K. 2003 Concours, 65K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Hi/Low meaning one bulb does both. Same kit you have, but in 9004 form....this one: http://www.vvme.com/12v-5055w-90043-bixenon-hid-kit-p-132.html?cPath=44_46_36 One bulb for each side (2 sides), one ballast for each side (2 sides), one bracket for each side (2 sides), one wiring harness. PM me an address, I'll PM you mine or you can send addy to millerized@millerized.com http://www.millerized.com I'll be in the garage
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COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g
 
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http://www.millerized.com I'll be in the garage
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COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g
 
Cool. PM Received and returned. 2003 Concours, 65K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Barring death on the way to the PO....looks like we have a 'sale'. Thanks! http://www.millerized.com I'll be in the garage
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COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g
 
Looks like (according to the tracking numbers) we've both completed the deal. Yours got delivered last week, mine yesterday. Since I'm 'sick' today (cough, cough) I'll get to installing these. I've got to rewire the running lights (20Kv sparks right through the sides of AutoZones 14ga wire) so we'll get this 'eye of God' monster installed today. For those who modify the bulb side of the wiring harness and have a problem with them not working later, you'll need high voltage silicone wire....the 600v normal stuff just doesn't work. She'll spark out right through the wires insulation. I got 26Kv stuff from McMaster Carr...pricey but no substitute when you're doing the job different. God only knows how different I just 'have' to do a job.... At least I get to keep the economy going.
 
Jim, I'll bet that if you find some RG58 or 59 (ubiquitous RG6 has that nasty foil shielding) coax, strip off the jacket & shield and just use the center conductor with its foamed polyethylene insulation it would work as a poor mans HV wire solution. Solid core ignition wire would work well too.
 
Yep. Everything ok here. Have not gotten around to installing yet. Sun is out and the Connie needs ridden. Lights for the truck will have to wait for a rainy day. This weekend is packed full. Maybe next week sometime. 2003 Concours, 65K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Well I finally got around to getting these installed on the truck. I did have to aim then down quite a bit. THESE THINGS ARE INSANE.
 
Like many mentioned I did have to aim the headlights down some, after the install. The low beam is insane. The high beam does not seam to do anything more than low beam with a wider pattern. Not really a very good high beam. Here is the lowbeam out on the street in front of our complex. I set the camera to take a pic of the ambient lighting which has an overhead street light, shadows from trees, building lights, etc. And it was raining. This is similar to the flat light conditions in the rain where I could hardly tell the stock lights were working. The patterns seems nicely contained in front of the truck, with good horizontal cutoff at the top. Wife and I took the car and truck to the park 'n ride where we could compare pattern and distance. Also did oncoming drive by's to see what they will see. And followed her around so we can see what its light when I sit behind someone. All in all the pattern seems nice and its aimed ok. Does not shine in peoples eyes. Just ####ing bright.
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Yeah...ain't they ;) Imagine 3 on a bike :8o: My 55-55-35 combo really lights things up. I get people flashing high beams at me during the DAY! My only issue is that the driving lights sometimes don't come on at the same time. They need to be flicked on/off a time or 2 to get them both to fire. I'm wondering if maybe I toasted a ballast when it was grounding through the 600V wire. They still come on, but sometimes either one might need coaxed. You cannot just wrap regular 14ga wire with electrical tape either. That 20Kv+ starting pulse goes right through the insulation AND the electrical tape into the nearest ground...even if that ground is your hand. DAMHIK 26Kv silicon wrapped wire, and you probably even pee on it without problems. Well worth the investment for light related safety. Very well worth it.
 
"My only issue is that the driving lights sometimes don't come on at the same time.  They need to be flicked on/off a time or 2 to get them both to fire.  I'm wondering if maybe I toasted a ballast when it was grounding through the 600V wire.  They still come on, but sometimes either one might need coaxed."

You might need a 5-10sec delay on one ballast, the slug of current drawn by  both of them starting at the same instant can keep one of them from turning on, guys on the FJR forum had the same problem with a pair of 55 watters. 
 
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