I am wondering thoughts on turning on ignition, lights working and will not start. I hear nothing, no clicks, nothing while pushing start button. I have been hearing some arching prior to start up for a while from what I thought was the junction box. Hate to buy unneeded parts, but it seems to me to be junction box. Anyone had a similar problem? Thanks very much.
-
WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE ABLE TO POST?
You must have an active membership plan
Use the bottons upper right to Log in or Register for membership - or click here to register to join COG
All new registrations are completed and authenticated using the club's main webpage.
For instructions to convert to one of our Full memberships from the Trial membership, click here
-
Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
99 c 10
- Thread starter kthkollar9552
- Start date
Some folks have had success reviving their j box, by touching up.the solder connections. They will develop a cold break from time to time. On fb on the gtr1000 forum somebody's have located replacement relays and soldered them in. Years ago Larry buck at buck sport touring was rebuilding j boxes. I dont think he's in business any longer, check with murphs, at murphskits.com
Thanks very much, but does sound like the issue? Any other possibility? Thanks again
I have had success giving the j box a good whack or two. If it's bad solder joints, you may notice dash lights showing signs of life. If you see a change in anything while whacking the j box then it's probably the j box. With that said, you haven't said anything about whether or not the battery is a known good battery. Corrosion on connections can be invisible to the eye but cause problems so all connections in that circuit need to be clean. This means you scuffed them up with something. Don't look at them and say it looks good to me. At one time my son's 87 had a problem not starting and it was corrosion on the starter button itself. HTH
Follow the wiring diagram and use a multimeter or test light to see where the electrons are losing their way. The starter circuit is pretty straightforward, but the ignition circuit is a bit trickier to follow with the clutch, neutral, and side stand switches and diodes.
You can find a full wiring diagram here, conveniently edited to include the j-box internals all on the same diagram:
Thread 'C10 wiring diagram complete' https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/c10-wiring-diagram-complete.32840/
You can find a full wiring diagram here, conveniently edited to include the j-box internals all on the same diagram:
Thread 'C10 wiring diagram complete' https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/c10-wiring-diagram-complete.32840/
If you look hard enough, there's a write up about adding pigtails with connectors for standard auto relays. It was by a guy from South Carolina who was into 2 strokes named Mark.Is there a write up or video somewhere? I'd love to see that process.
-Z
Start by looking on You Tube.
I found these 2. There may be more.
NOTE: I think Larry Buck is still doing the J-Box repairs.
Ride safe, Ted
I found these 2. There may be more.
NOTE: I think Larry Buck is still doing the J-Box repairs.
Ride safe, Ted
Last edited:
Here are photos of the inside of my junction box. This is after Larry Buck went through it and upgraded the relays.
Years ago, intermittently my C-10 would just die or not start, etc. I would give the J-Box a whack and the machine would spring to life.
I pulled the J-Box and noticed a few of the solder joints had minuscular almost imperceptible cracks in the solder. I went through and reflowed all the solder joints with my solder gun, flux, solder.
Plugged the J-Box back in and never had another issue.
Now - your results may vary but my issue was certainly tied back to the J-Box and resolved immediately with above.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
That's a common problem on Mk4 VW GTI/Golf/Jettas (199.5-2004), especially the earlier ones. The door latches have circuit boards with soldered joints for the lock microswitches and actuators, which tend to crack over time. The driver's door is usually the first to go, as it's opened and closed the most.
I wanted to thank you all for your help. I ended up taking a chance and buying one on Ebay. It did work and got the old girl running again. Now, I will take the old one apart and see about repairs. Thanks again.
Yea. We'll talk to anyone.
(Even Bud)
Ride safe, Ted
(Even Bud)
Ride safe, Ted
As mentioned already in this thread, your issue is almost certain to be bad solder joints, or relays in the J Box. Someone has linked a video I did about my J Box repairs and I had exactly the same issue, as you describe. It’s a relatively simple fix, but I also recommend a thorough cleaning of all connectors. Disconnect, spray contact cleaner in to them and reconnect, repeat three or four times. Additionally, look for any obvious wire breaks or bent pins in the connectors. You may also want to check any ground points and loosen and clean such points. I also recommend doing the additional ground connection to the ignition box. You can find info on this in the forums. Cheers.