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Auxiliary Fuse Block-keyed or straight to the battery?

touring03

Member
Member
Thanks for the input on the fuse block in a previous post, that info raises a second question, wire the auxiliary fuse block to a "keyed" power source or direct to the battery so it's "always on". Let me know what you think and why.

P.
 
Thanks for the input on the fuse block in a previous post, that info raises a second question, wire the auxiliary fuse block to a "keyed" power source or direct to the battery so it's "always on". Let me know what you think and why.

P.
First I do not have experience or a need yet for an auxiliary box.

Would think though a keyed box would be better otherwise killing your battery is a real risk if you leave something plugged in. Also possible risk of fire if chaffing occurs.
 
I prefer both. An inline 25 amp fuse to an always powered FuseBlock FZ-1. I have the FuzeBlock mounted under the seat and it lets you put the fuse in an always on slot or keyed power slot for each circuit...which is pointless if the Fuzeblock isn't always on. I keep my GPS on an always on circuit as it uses little power and I like not having to restart the GPS every time I stop.
 
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I have always has my attached to a "keyed" wire to turn on. The main power still comes directly from the battery with larger gauge wiring. The purpose of the keyed wire is to turn the fuse block on. You only drain your battery once on a ferry to want the fuse block switched!
 
All good points, I'm leaning on going straight to the battery and my reasoning for going straight to the battery is I need the ability to charge small web cams and cell phone when I'm in the campground at night, I'm assuming that charging both my web cams plus my cell phone would not draw enough off the battery to make starting the bike a problem. (at least that's what I'm hoping)
 
I agree with the Fuzeblock comment. You can choose which you want always hot and which you want to be keyed.
 
If you are using a FuzeBlock, it gives you a choice to attach your device to switched or unswitched power. You need to wire the fuzeblock to both powers so you can decide which you want to use for your devices.
 
If you are using a FuzeBlock, it gives you a choice to attach your device to switched or unswitched power. You need to wire the fuzeblock to both powers so you can decide which you want to use for your devices.
That sounds like the way to go, you get the best of both worlds.
 
I have to ask a question. Does the c 14 have the same hot aux connections that my c10 has? If so use an inexpensive fuse block powered by a relay for your switched outputs and use the hot aux connections for your always on connections. I got one for around $10.00 online.

1612798973580.png
 
I have to ask a question. Does the c 14 have the same hot aux connections that my c10 has? If so use an inexpensive fuse block powered by a relay for your switched outputs and use the hot aux connections for your always on connections. I got one for around $10.00 online.

View attachment 28601
There are two sets of Aux power leads on the C14 front and rear, somewhat hidden....however these are switched, not hot. Suitable for triggering a power relay but not as a source for much power (5 Amp fuse on Gen II C14s). So the answer to your question is, No.
 
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