• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Auxiliary fuse block

touring03

touring03

Member
Member
I can't add any more additional leads to the battery terminals, I want to remove the extra leads that are on the terminals now and reattach them to an auxiliary fuse block. I'm sure some COG members have already done this, what make of fuse block did you use and where did you mount it? I have one bought years ago but it will not fit under the C14 seat.

P
 
Plenty running around, but I recall that MOB has a pretty solid and generic setup under his seat.

I have a Fuzeblock, but it's maxxed, and i too would benefit by reducing some of the leads on my batt. terminals.
As it is, I could NOT fit another one under there with my dual heated gear leads directly attached.
I think i Have three each, including the Fuzeblock mains.

gr
 
Centech ap2. Mounted mine under the right side top panel next to the fuel tank when i first bought my bike. When i mounted my rostra cruise control box in that location there was still plenty of space to mount it on top of the rostra. The centech has switched hot and constant hot taps.
 
Fuzeblock here. Mounted under the left black panel. I have an 08 so it has room. Maxed out as well, but can't think of anything else i need. Switched and unswitched options but I only use switched.
 
I have the Fuzeblock FZ1 also. Very simple to install. I have it mounted under the right side black plastic panel next to the tank. The only thing I would do differently is to mount under the seat so I can get at easier in case a fuse does blow.
 
I went with a PDM 60 a few years back. The PDM 60 is a programmable unit that I used to connect my air horn, tire pump, Zumo, and Denali lights. It was easy to configure and has been completely trouble-free. I mounted the unit under the right side top cover.
 
shoupeja said:
I went with a PDM 60 a few years back. The PDM 60 is a programmable unit that I used to connect my air horn, tire pump, Zumo, and Denali lights. It was easy to configure and has been completely trouble-free. I mounted the unit under the right side top cover.
Click to expand...
PDM60 is nice, but the price of $179 sucks! The FuzeBlocks FZ1 is only $89.95
 
mikebike said:
Bought mine at NAPA for around $10 , holds several circuits, mounted in the toolbox above the ECU, clean and dry.
Click to expand...
This is probably the ideal mounting location, if you don't need alot of leads.
And there's a spare circuit lead back there too, for key-on switching (powering) the unit.

The one thing I couldn't resolve was how i'd run all the power leads from the front of the bike BACK to the fuse block under the seat??
The limited paths under the tank make that a difficult propostion. o_O

As it was, I chose the LEFT side of the bike, mounted against the foam "heat-shield". That made a shorter electrical pathway for all my farkles, including the Rostra, which is mounted on the RIGHT side just under the upper dash.

The FZ1 is clean and out of the way, but it's not easy to get to in a pinch......requires removal of screen, dash, and tupperware -- you guys know the drill.
Not really sure WHERE I'd put it if I did it all again. The ROSTRA install is semi-permanent, and everything needed to be routed to accomodate that.

PDM-60 is a superior unit for flexibility, and programming - but yeah, cost restrictive.

gr
 
I used the FuzeBlock FZ-1. I custom mounted it in the factory tool box. I took the fuel tank off & ran wires to the front under the tank putting the wires in wire loom to protect them.
 
zarticus said:
I used the FuzeBlock FZ-1. I custom mounted it in the factory tool box. I took the fuel tank off & ran wires to the front under the tank putting the wires in wire loom to protect them.
Click to expand...
I did the same thing. I posted my work a long time ago that had photos. The tool box holds some paltry tools and you won’t miss it and a great spot for the FuzeBlocks FZ-1. In my younger days I used to rush through wiring jobs to add the next gadget quickly, but learned doing it right the first time with good planning and quality with soldered joints saves you many headaches in the future. In addition to working well, it looks good too.
 
Found the link....
forum.concours.org

Lifting the Tank to Route Wires

Adding a powered Farkle here and there over time is starting to make a mess at the battery box. It’s now time to add the FZ-1 fuse block in the tool kit area. To do this, I’m going to need to route some wires from the front to the rear. Doing this work at the next valve check would be best...
forum.concours.org forum.concours.org
 
Hasn't been mentioned yet, so I'll throw out another option. I have a Neutrino Element. Of all the options mentioned, it's the most expensive at around $249. Like the PDM-60, it gives individual circuit config with a total max load of 60A. Each circuit can sustain up to 12-15A (varies by circuit) with max loads of 25A on each circuit. Each can be individually configured for breaker limit, variable/switched/momentary. And, you can even link circuit power to vary by temperature (e.g. change heated gear power based on temp, which means you ditch the normal bulky controllers on 12v heated gear). Some circuits have staggered startup to distribute load when starting the bike and circuit shutdown can be delayed after turning off the ignition. Everything is configurable through a smartphone app, so no need to connect to a PC. I installed mine in the toolkit location, but it required splicing on additional 8AWG wire to make the journey under the tank to the battery.
 
From NAPA, bought mine about 10 years ago, it was a little cheaper back then.

Fuse Block, ATC, 10-Way, Short Base, 15600 Series Panel​


Part #: BK 7823212
Line: Balkamp
Fuse Block, ATC, 10-Way, Short Base, 15600 Series Panel


ONLINE PRICE (USD):
$26.99/Each
 
mikebike said:
From NAPA, bought mine about 10 years ago, it was a little cheaper back then.

Fuse Block, ATC, 10-Way, Short Base, 15600 Series Panel​


Part #: BK 7823212
Line: Balkamp
Fuse Block, ATC, 10-Way, Short Base, 15600 Series Panel


ONLINE PRICE (USD):
$26.99/Each
Click to expand...
Ya that looks like a reasonable solution. Didnt see any mounting holes and where does the positive lead connect to.
 
4bikes said:
I did the same thing. I posted my work a long time ago that had photos. The tool box holds some paltry tools and you won’t miss it and a great spot for the FuzeBlocks FZ-1. In my younger days I used to rush through wiring jobs to add the next gadget quickly, but learned doing it right the first time with good planning and quality with soldered joints saves you many headaches in the future. In addition to working well, it looks good too.
Click to expand...
Your thread from 2015 just keeps on giving - Thanks! I just put the FZ1 Fuzeblock in my 2018 Concours 14 the same way you did. The pictures and description were a HUGE help. One thing I did was put a 30 amp fuse in the far side of the battery box, in case there is short going under the tank somewhere. Put it in the back because the side facing the cover plate is so tight there isn't much room. Downside is if it blows I would have to take the battery out to replace it. Everything running off the FZ! Fuzeblock is an accessory though, so it won't leave me stranded. I also put rubber grommets in the holes drilled in the tool box for the wires to go through.
Thanks again 4bikes!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top