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C10 Driving Lights

Road Warrior

Eastern Oklahoma
Guest
Looking for ideas to add some Driving Lights. Pleased to find two decent mounting points (with longer bolts). What have you done to slay the darks demons ?EC27B526-C793-42ED-BA6F-599AD3D92DA5.jpeg
 

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How did that work out for you? I'm concerned about mounting lights which are not cusioned by the suspension.
 
Heres where i mounted mine. Light weight from superbrightleds.com....cant post pic too big..

I.mounted mine on the fairing at the same horizontal plane as the headlight.
 
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Used to run these - still have the setup. Really lit things up at night.

Currently looking for H3 LED's to replace the 55w (each) halogens as they drew a lot of current.
 
You won't find better lights than the Hella's you have. LED's are not for long range lighting because then do not have a reflector to focus the light. Big splash of light - yes; picking up Bambi - not so much. I ran Hella, FF-200's for years (55 watts each) and had heated gear also. No problems, but used pulse width controls, not resistive type. Pulse width for grips can be simulated with a turn signal flasher. That my light mount?

Larry
 
You won't find better lights than the Hella's you have. LED's are not for long range lighting because then do not have a reflector to focus the light. Big splash of light - yes; picking up Bambi - not so much. I ran Hella, FF-200's for years (55 watts each) and had heated gear also. No problems, but used pulse width controls, not resistive type. Pulse width for grips can be simulated with a turn signal flasher. That my light mount?

Larry
Hi Larry, Good info.

The bracket is a home brewed one using big box store hardware bits.

I too run heated jacket and gloves using a dual pulse controller. Added a volt meter on the bike and if I kept idle up to 1500rpm or so at stops, I could keep voltage it at a decent range when running lights and heated gear. If idling at normal 1000-1100 rpm's it would drop significantly - even below 12 volts. The alternative was to switch the running lights off at stop lights.

Both heated gear and running lights were on their own relays powered directly from the battery.

Did you run the OEM generator or the ZZR upgrade?

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Question; Wouldn't it be better to replace the OEM Headlight with a LED bulb?

ie; The LED is a different spectrum/color of light and would pull less amperage.
Lower power needed for the head light would allow the 55 watt running lights.
The running lights would be used only when you want them, and would be different spectrum than the LED head light.
The 2 spectrums working together would make bambi stand out. (more contrast)
 
Question; Wouldn't it be better to replace the OEM Headlight with a LED bulb?

ie; The LED is a different spectrum/color of light and would pull less amperage.
Lower power needed for the head light would allow the 55 watt running lights.
The running lights would be used only when you want them, and would be different spectrum than the LED head light.
The 2 spectrums working together would make bambi stand out. (more contrast)
Funny you should ask. I started a new thread so as not to unduly hijack this one.

See: https://forum.concours.org/index.ph...d-c10-headlight-bulb-install-i-like-it.54624/
 
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I agree that halogen is better than LED generally for long distance spot lights. On my Jeep I used both LED "driving" lights mounted on the A pillar which were only good for medium distance and had halogen for reaching out and touching someone and fog lights for rocks.

As for the amps, you really should not be using non-dot/driving lights in town anyways (in CA I would imagine that would get you pulled over) so the stop light situation isn't very relevant.

I like the setup just above, and may try that, looks pretty simple with the 1x alum tubing and some sort of clamp to the faring support?
 
OK, I’ll fess up. I used to mfg my Watt Saver. It was an assembly that cut the ZG bulb off when the Hellas were on, but still allowed high beam if needed. If you would like help making a Watt Saver, let me know. HTH

Larry
 
I agree that halogen is better than LED generally for long distance spot lights. On my Jeep I used both LED "driving" lights mounted on the A pillar which were only good for medium distance and had halogen for reaching out and touching someone and fog lights for rocks.

As for the amps, you really should not be using non-dot/driving lights in town anyways (in CA I would imagine that would get you pulled over) so the stop light situation isn't very relevant.

I like the setup just above, and may try that, looks pretty simple with the 1x alum tubing and some sort of clamp to the faring support?
The clamp is called a 'beam clamp' - available at Home Depot and probably others too.

It attaches to the Main Fairing stay. It can be installed using a ratchet extension to tighten the beam clamp bolts from the top. No fairing disassembly necessary.

I used SS hardware as much as I could.
 
I bent L brackets over and added Amazon LEDs. Found the mod on the site years ago.
8A3FDB7F-8594-4873-80F5-DC08B00669B1.jpegC65E5B0A-1FD8-4FAB-A157-8D8FA1DB5F98.jpegMade a difference for me these past 5 years. Helps on the interstate for my commute also🤓
 
You won't find better lights than the Hella's you have. LED's are not for long range lighting because then do not have a reflector to focus the light. Big splash of light - yes; picking up Bambi - not so much. I ran Hella, FF-200's for years (55 watts each) and had heated gear also. No problems, but used pulse width controls, not resistive type. Pulse width for grips can be simulated with a turn signal flasher. That my light mount?

Larry

Larry, are you referring to the HID version of the FF-200?

I have a set that I am looking to install on my FJR.......would be interested in your thoughts on them


John Atkinson
COG #5921
 
OK, I’ll fess up. I used to mfg my Watt Saver. It was an assembly that cut the ZG bulb off when the Hellas were on, but still allowed high beam if needed. If you would like help making a Watt Saver, let me know. HTH

Larry

Larry, I seem to recall seeing the Watt Saver on your website many moons ago and very much like the idea...I'd be interested in details as to how you made them, if you're agreeable to that?
 
I had something similar I called a 'Low Beam Override' switch to turn off low beam, allowing running lights only - unless high beam was turned on.

Kinda cool in the day as 2 lights were visible giving a different look from normal Bikes.
 
C-10 #4 came with Hella FF50s mounted on the tip over bars. Unfortunately, the mounting brackets broke while riding #4 home from Ohio, where I bought it, and replacement brackets do not appear to be available for purchase. I am considering Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro LED Pods to replace the Hellas because that will lower the load on the alternator and put out plenty of light.

1657857775197.png Diode Dynamics SS3 LED Pods Video Link

Btw, the chin lights in the picture of #4 were basically useless and have been removed. I might replace them with a Diode Dynamics SS6 Fog Light Bar.

1657858275116.png

C-10 #4

Yamahawk photo [10].jpeg
 
Have used Diode Dynamics on a couple bikes. Like their products. May not be the least cost but not the highest either.
 
Still haven't pulled the trigger on replacing the Hella FF50s that were mounted on the tip over bars. But I did mount some LED lights using Guy Young's Driving Light Brackets.

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I have a set of replacement LED driving lights. They were cheap to buy and definitely illegal but showed a knats hair on a deers back at 1 kilometer. Unfortunately I burnt out the ballast last week and need to have it repaired/replaced.

Look for a set of used led headlights and remove the high beam setup. If it comes with the ballast you need only modify brackets. Not easy but worth the hassle.
I'll post pics when it's working again.
 
It sounds like most want to "see" better, rather than "be seen" better. My goal was to be seen better.
I used stainless boat rail mounting bracets (used to install stuff on a boat's rail) and mounted two 10W LED floodlights on the bottom of the tip-over bars.
Question: do better lights really help avoid Bambi? seems most of the time Bambi runs out into the road from the side, and lights would not have helped.
My personal experience was just that, and the LED headlight bulbs, with whiter light, helped me see thr deer sooner, brake sooner, and made it a snow show impact(~12-15 MPH) with no damage (this was on my C14).
 



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It sounds like most want to "see" better, rather than "be seen" better. My goal was to be seen better.
I used stainless boat rail mounting bracets (used to install stuff on a boat's rail) and mounted two 10W LED floodlights on the bottom of the tip-over bars.
Question: do better lights really help avoid Bambi? seems most of the time Bambi runs out into the road from the side, and lights would not have helped.
My personal experience was just that, and the LED headlight bulbs, with whiter light, helped me see thr deer sooner, brake sooner, and made it a snow show impact(~12-15 MPH) with no damage (this was on my C14).



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who built these tip over bars, on the grey Berna12 bike?
 
Morning Jorge,
NO question about you're being right as well. Being seen is just as important. Bambis have 2 legs in town and sit behind a steering wheel . When my C10 is on the road it'll have side and rear bright LED strips as well as the regular lights.

"The best way to blind a person is to put a windshield in front of them."

PS Hope you weren't hurt.
Have a safe day
Wayne

Fernabern143 Who built your tip over bars?
 
Thanks Bernard. I couldn't do a translate to english but the pictures said it all. I like what you've built.

Murph used 1" drawn over mandrill DOM .225 wall.
What pipe did you use?
 

Bernard, those are AMAZING, and just what I was looking for. I have a local welder I'm trying to get to make a set for me, so this is absolutely perfect!

I have one question: Will the front bars work with the full fairing? Or will I need to cut a hole in it?

Let's see how off the translation is:

Bernard, c'est ÉTONNANT, et c'est exactement ce que je cherchais. J'ai un soudeur local que j'essaie de faire fabriquer un ensemble pour moi, donc c'est absolument parfait !

J'ai une question : les barres avant fonctionneront-elles avec le carénage complet ? Ou dois-je faire un trou dedans ?

-x01660
 
Bernard, bon travail!!
Guys, the C10 tip over bars are still available from Murph's:

BTW... now that I'm at my PC I'll put up some photos of how I'd mounted my lights. These were some LED fog lights that had a really good beam pattern, but they could not take the vibration level and both failed. I replaced them with 7W LED flood lights.
BTW-II... yesterday while looking for something else i ran across these brackets that should work for mounting lights on the Tip-Over bars:
 

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It sounds like most want to "see" better, rather than "be seen" better. My goal was to be seen better.
I used stainless boat rail mounting bracets (used to install stuff on a boat's rail) and mounted two 10W LED floodlights on the bottom of the tip-over bars.
Question: do better lights really help avoid Bambi? seems most of the time Bambi runs out into the road from the side, and lights would not have helped.
My personal experience was just that, and the LED headlight bulbs, with whiter light, helped me see thr deer sooner, brake sooner, and made it a snow show impact(~12-15 MPH) with no damage (this was on my C14).
From my recent experience, no amount of lights would have kept Bambi off of me at 1:00 in the afternoon :ROFLMAO:
 
Lol . I've had those whistles installed for years . Do they work ? They are not hurting anything anyway . Between those and my 4 demon bells I am covered 😂
 

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