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C10 Water Pump Project

Murph

Guest
Guest
I'm currently putting together a kit to rebuild the stock water pump for the ole gal, i'm waiting for a specific mechanical seal I want to use, I'm also considering offering a rebuild/exchange program. I'll have enough parts showing up at the same time to do several. If you want to be a test monkey get in touch with me via email through the shop or TEXT 270 322 8097..I've already sourced a much better front oil seal and will probably offer it separably. For those who have never dealt with a mechanical water pump seal, they can be a bit finicky to install ...one reason I'm debating offering the service, The down side is the back and forth shipping cost.


anyway, now ya know.


Best
Murph
 
Note sent. Have 1 you can experiment on.

Side note;
My Dad added a mechanical water seal to a water pump many years ago.
(That pump originally used compression packing to prevent leaking)
His project took a lot of work to make it fit/seal properly, but it hasn't leaked or failed in over 20 years of use.
So, if you want to know how to install a mechanical seal in a 1912 Ford Model T I can show you one. <evil grin>

PS: Yes, I know a Model T doesn't originally have a water pump, but I had to mention it.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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My 650 silverwing uses a mechanical seal like that. Some refer to it as a polo mint.
 
One thing that might be added to the process would be to put a coat of dish soap on the ceramic "polo" seal before the impeller is installed. This was the method recommended by the CX500 CX650 gurus. I believe it's just to provide a bit of lubrication when the pump first starts moving.
 
I learned something when I watched the video's.
(I wasn't really aware of the water seal type and its difficulty to repair).
ie; I admit that I never took the time to look into it.


May be an image of 1 person and text that says 'Verry Intrresting'


(I think) Most water pump fails on the C-10 are because of the oil seal.
ie; People start noticing (lip type) oil leaking out below the water pump.
I also think the primary reason for the oil leak is the seal was somehow pushed out of place.
That seal can be replaced fairly easily. (On my C-10 I pushed it back into place and all was fine)

Water leaking out is far less common.
ie; Water leaking out the same weap hole asn the oil.
It occurs when the (mechanical) water seal leaks.
NOTE: If you have water leaking, the bearing is also probably damaged, and needs replaced.
The video shows how to do so.
It's considerably more difficult to replace than the oil seal.


If Murph's going to start repairing the "water" seals, I'd buy from him rather than try to do it myself.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I replaced the mechanical seal on my C14 with mixed results. The problem was getting the old one out because of some superhuman blue sealer around the OD of the stainless cup, where it pressed into the aluminum housing. I initially used a punch from the backside, after punching 3 holes through the HARD stainless cup, I shifted gears and went to the lathe and cut it out. Left about a .003-005 wall thickness and was able to pick it out. Installed the new one with no problem. Started it up and was greeted with a major leak around the cover. I believe I distorted something while punching out the old seal. If I was to do it again it would be straight to the lathe. If the C10 doesn't have that blue sealant, then it's easy sailing. Hope this helps.

You can see the blue sealant on the new seal propped up against the impeller. You can see the remains of the stainless cup that was cut out. Far right of picture.
 

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C10 pumps a littler easier to deal with as far as supporting things while removing/installing components, the amount of sealer used is way less as well. Ive made drivers/ retainers to push/pull things into and out of place. Should have the repair kits on the site ,maybe latter today. I may offer to rebuild a few for the price of the kit and shipping just to get some units in the field, and get exposed to what shape most are in.....like how many cores are serviceable.
 
I think personally I would let murph do it. And props to him for keeping the parts coming! The one thing that scares me about the C10 is parts availability in carb parts availability. She old but she's gold!
 
Having dissected several pumps now I've discovered that very early models used a different mechanical seal on the coolant side, Its 2MM larger on the OD than pumps used latter. The early pumps used a red sealant around the OD while the "latter" pumps used a blue....at least the has held true on all the ones I worked on so far. As of yet I haven't found an outward indication to show which seal is in the pump. They have to be disassembled to find out. The rear oil seal on these units needs a light coating of "Ultra Black" or "Ultra Grey" Permatex to make sure it stays in place while in use.
 
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