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C14 rear shock

turbojoe78

turbojoe78

Member
Member
Hello all,
I just purchased a C14 rear shock and I was looking for some info on what modifications I need to do to install it.
I haven't been following the site for a while and see it has changed allot from last fall. (when I purchased a boat with no motor that had been my focus till now)

I did a search on the forums and can't find any of the information on what people have done to install a C14 shock on a C10.
I also have a lowering link to install with it.

If anyone could give me a heads up on what I might need for different hardware or anything I will need to modify that would be great. (or how or where I could do a search to find it)

Thanks
Joe C
 
Is there no way to get to the old threads?

I thought I remembered something about having to drill something out and using a combination of C10 and C14 mounting hardware.

I don't have the shock yet, so I don't know if it will have any of the mounting hardware with it.

I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row so when I go at it there will be no surprises.

Is there a way to get to the old threads from concours.org?
 
^-^ Joe!

I was just thinking about you today.
Figures you'd be making another mod  :beerchug:
How's the lobsta hunting this year?
Hope all is well!

Ohh, I'm not sure if it will help you... But the wayback machine goes back to Jun 2009, nothing newer than that... It's not very searchable, but you can page thru all the old topics and read em...
http://web.archive.org/web/20090620175404/http://forum.concours.org/index.php?
 
Got the shock last Friday.

So far from what I have found out, it looks like I use the mounting hardware from the C10 at the top of the shock and I have to grind, or file a little off of each side of the steel bushing at the top of the C14 shock to fit it in where it mounts to the frame.

The bottom mounting I still need help with.

It looks like I need the mounting hardware for the C14 at the bottom.  There's a bolt and a steel sleeve that go through the needle bearings on the C14.  Does anyone know if the steel sleeve from the C14 fits the needle bearings on the C10?

If the steel sleeve from the C14 fits the needle bearings on the C10 then I would just have to buy the nut, bolt and steel sleeve for the C14 and find some washers to take up the side to side space as the C14 shock is wider than the link it mounts to.

If anyone remembers how they mounted the C14 shock at the bottom let me know if I'm on the right track so I can "Git-er-Done"

Thanks Joe
 
yes your right on track, bolt and sleve from c-14 on bottom, on top you have to bore/drill the top hole to 12mm to use c-10 bolt as the hole in c-14 is 10mm, some just use the 10mm bolt on top also, or you can press the bushing out of both shocks and press the bushing from c-10 into c-14 shock
 
Parts have been ordered from Ron Ayers for bottom and I'll probably drill out the C14 shock to accommodate the C10 bolt for the top.

I'll let everyone know how it went when I get the parts and put it all together.
 
I just used the 10mm bolt in the top, it doesn't move.  I had to just touch the top with a grinder to get it to slide in; some people haven't.  In the bottom, I had a buddy in the machine shop at work make me a 10mm x 20mm x 30mm bushing.  I worked grease into the needle bearing before I put it together; worked good.
 
Went to install the shock today and found as Uglydog56 said, I will have to get a custom bushing made for mounting the bottom.  The bushing for the C14 is obviously the correct inside diameter for the C14 lower shock nut and the right length, but the outside diameter is too small to fit the needle bearings in the link the shock bolts on to.

Oh well, now I just have to find a machine shop to make my C14 to C10 rear shock custom bushing.
 
not to hijack the thread, but I know there are several options for the C-10 shock upgrade:

1)  C-14
2)  ZZR1200
3) Progressive (465?)
4) Wilbers

I have heard (old forum?) that the Wilbers is the best of all of these, but can be rather pricey.

Any thoughts as to the pros and cons of the various alternatives?
 
If you have the stock c-10 bottom bolt you can fabicate the lower bushing from it, remove the grease fitting, drill a 10mm hole all the way through, cut the nut side off, than the threaded side off, or bring bolt to machine shop and let them do it.
 
First machine shop I called said to bring it in ... but ... we have a minimum charge for work ... $100.00!!!
 
Finally got my bushing from our machine shop at work today, for a non-required $20 gratuity.

I hope to be installing it soon and will try to take pictures and give a description of the work I've done to install it, so others who follow will have guidance.
 
OK, I was in a hurry so I didn't take pictures.  When you have the C14 shock in your hand, a written description of what needs to be done becomes clear without the need for pictures ... here's what I did

The steel bushing at the top of the C14 shock didn't fit in the bracket on the bike so I had to grind/file some width off it till it fit, I would guess less than 1/16" overall.  (less than 1/32" off each side)  The bolt used on the C14 at the top is also smaller than the one for the C10, so I chose to drill the top bolt hole in the steel bushing out, and use the stock nut and bolt from the C10.

For the bottom mounting I purchased the stock nut, bolt and bushing for the C14.  The nut and bolt were used but the bushing's outside diameter is too small to be used in the C10 needle bearings so I had one made with a larger outside diameter.
I will try to get the length, ID and OD of the bushing so if someone is going to do this they could get it made before hand.

What I have noticed so far is, now the front of the bike seems to take the bumps much worse than the back.  With the stock rear shock the front and back felt much the same when going over bumps, so I guess what I'm feeling is how much better the C14 shock smooths out the bumps.  So now I'll be looking at getting emulators for the front as a winter project.
 
If you feel the rear is too high a lowerring rocker will get you back down to almost stock and take some weight off the front, I have one listed in eporium if you deside you may want to try . the c14 is nodout super smooth over bumps i know
 
JTTF, I think it was you I bought a lowering link from last year, hoping to find a C14 shock to use with it for a good price.

About two weeks after I paid $250 for the one I have from ebay, one showed up for $200.

I have the lowering link installed with the shock now and am loving the combination.
 
found this topic, and instead of starting anew, thought I would just add...

I am geting a used C14 shock...and am just a tad confused by the posts...the top will need to be ground slightly to fit the C10 top mount, and use the C14 or C10 mounting bolt to attach??

The bottom, since I have a 33.5" inseam will not lower the shock at first. I can touch flat footed and knees bent on OEM @ 45psi.

JTTF  stated the C14 bolt/sleeve can be used on the bottom with no other mods? What is the OEM size bolt on the C10, local dealer has no clue?
 
The top of the C14 shock may, or may not need to be made thinner side to side to fit into the shock mount bracket of your bike.  (mine did need to be ground down about 1/32" off each side of the steel bushing at the top of the C14 shock to fit in the mounting bracket.)

The bolt for the top mount of the C10 shock is 12mm, and the bolt at the top of the C14 shock is 10mm.  Some have used the 10mm bolt for the C14 shock and say it works just fine.  I chose to drill out the steel bushing at the top of the C14 shock to accept the 12mm bolt from the C10 shock so there would be no chance of excess play should the nut an bolt loosen up.

At the bottom mount I had a custom bushing made and used the C14 bottom shock mounting nut and bolt.  The bushing needs to be made to the same length as the C14 bushing, I.D. is the same as the C14 to accept the C14 bolt, and the O.D. needs to be made the same size as the bolt/bushing used on the C10.

I will look tomorrow to see if I can find the C14 bushing and the C10 bolt/bushing and get some measurements for you.
 
I heard from a very knowledgable sour the ZZR1200 bushing & bolt is a "bolt" on... ::)

I just ordered the ZR1200 bushing from Kaw today, and should be in about the same time as my shock. I have a backup plan if not.

Those measurement would be helpful if not too much trouble.
 
RWJC said:
found this topic, and instead of starting anew, thought I would just add...

JTTF  stated the C14 bolt/sleeve can be used on the bottom with no other mods? What is the OEM size bolt on the C10, local dealer has no clue?
Click to expand...


The bushing needed at the bottom to mount the C14 shock to the C10 linkage needs to be between .397" and .403" ID, .886" OD and between 1.276" and 1.279" in length.  With a bushing that size you use the stock C14 lower mounting nut and bolt and all will be good.
 
Resurrecting this thread, RWJC, did you find that the ZZR bushing and bolt nullified the need for a custom bushing?

Considering this mod but want to figure out how much work it's going to take as the projects for this toy are stacking up.
 
I am looking at doing this modification and have a question.  Why couldn't a person just drill out the one side of the bottom shock mount to accept the lubricating shoulder bolt instead of the custom bushing? 

EDIT: Ignore this, I see why not... How precise does the bushing need to be?  I have some Stainless steel 20 mm tubing at work will this work or should it be something that is machined on the outside to make sure it is within the tolerances?
 
I just removed a c-14 shock and 1.125" lowering rocker from Shoodaben. If anyone wants it, it's a fully set up plug n play. The rocker has bearings and seals, properly sized shock bushing, and a mounting plate for the preload adjuster. everything is cleaned and ready to go - 250.00 shipped in the US. PM me if interested. Steve
 
Steve,

Why did you end up removing the c 14 shock?  I just performed this upgrade. Went in in a couple of hours. Drilled out the top to accept the 12 mm bolt and re purposed the old bottom bolt to make the bolt. It was a lot simpler than I expected.

Also, those who have used the c 14 shock upgrade. What settings did you use?
 
Just to try something else. i put on a progressive 465. So far, I won't say I made a mistake, but I think the c-14 setup is a fine setup. Maybe I'll change my mind with some more aggressive riding. steve
 
Beej

I just modified the old bolt that was in the bottom of the c10 shock. I got a 10 mm drill bit and clamped the old bolt in a vice and drilled through the headed.  The grease hole was a perfect pilot hole. I then cut it off with a portaband to width and touched it up with a grinder.  It was a lot easier than I anticipated.  I had doubts that a 10 mm bit would be big enough for the 10 mm bolt but it slid right in. I drilled out the to top bushing of the shock to accept the 12 mm top bolt.  A 12 mm drill bit did the trick.  No slop whatsoever.  It bolted right up. 
 
Drilling it out vs. putting in the different sized bushing seems like the bushing is the easier route.  Does the drilling out lessen the integrity of the shock?
 
Beej,

I thought the same thing until I saw out meaty the upper bushing was. It is still substantial with it drilled out to 12 mm. Some guys just leave it with the 10 mm bolt in the 12 mm holes in the upper mount and have had no issues.

The bottom bolt on the c 10 has a 20 mm OD so drilling out the grease channel for a 10 mm bolt to go through it, you are essentially creating the requisite bushing. It is easier to do that than to find 20 mm round stock to fabricate a bushing from. Trust me, I scoured mcmaster carr, grainger and MSCDirect to find ready made items. It was easier than I anticipated.
 
cutting down the bushings from a zzr1200 or zx1100 will resolve the bottom bolt issue. Personally, I felt drilling the bottom of the shock would weaken it, as the shock cleats aren't wide to begin with. JMO, steve
 
Steve - that's the ZZR1200 bushing and bolt from the top mount?

Also, I didn't realize we're losing the zerk fitting as a method of applying grease - or am I wrong about this?  New method is just to pull it out and apply grease; what, once a year?  I took off the c10 bottom bolt today.  Its cool how the zerk fittings and bolt work.  Since I am more hobbyist than mechanic I hadn't known how it operated before today.  Seems a shame to lose it.  Does the ZZR1200 bushing and bolt have the zerk fitting?  I can't hardly tell from the diagram (http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-kawasaki-zzr1200-zx1200c/o/m149150#sch436057)
 
Beej said:
Steve - that's the ZZR1200 bushing and bolt from the top mount?

Also, I didn't realize we're losing the zerk fitting as a method of applying grease - or am I wrong about this?  New method is just to pull it out and apply grease; what, once a year?  I took off the c10 bottom bolt today.  Its cool how the zerk fittings and bolt work.  Since I am more hobbyist than mechanic I hadn't known how it operated before today.  Seems a shame to lose it.  Does the ZZR1200 bushing and bolt have the zerk fitting?  I can't hardly tell from the diagram (http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-kawasaki-zzr1200-zx1200c/o/m149150#sch436057)
Click to expand...

No, it's the bushing the zzr uses in the rocker in place of our big bolt. Yes, you lose the zerk in the bolt and I wouldn't drill the smaller bolt; you can drill through the rocker and install a zerk, or you can just remove the bushing once on a while and add grease. Honestly I ran mine for maybe 20k and the grease / bearing / bushing was fine when I removed it, and I didn't have any zerks . HTH, steve
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Beej said:
Steve - that's the ZZR1200 bushing and bolt from the top mount?

Also, I didn't realize we're losing the zerk fitting as a method of applying grease - or am I wrong about this?  New method is just to pull it out and apply grease; what, once a year?  I took off the c10 bottom bolt today.  Its cool how the zerk fittings and bolt work.  Since I am more hobbyist than mechanic I hadn't known how it operated before today.  Seems a shame to lose it.  Does the ZZR1200 bushing and bolt have the zerk fitting?  I can't hardly tell from the diagram (http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-kawasaki-zzr1200-zx1200c/o/m149150#sch436057)
Click to expand...

No, it's the bushing the zzr uses in the rocker in place of our big bolt. Yes, you lose the zerk in the bolt and I wouldn't drill the smaller bolt; you can drill through the rocker and install a zerk, or you can just remove the bushing once on a while and add grease. Honestly I ran mine for maybe 20k and the grease / bearing / bushing was fine when I removed it, and I didn't have any zerks . HTH, steve
Click to expand...

This is precisely my point of confusion.  The ZZR1200 bushing has a 12.1 inner diameter, which would presumably require a 12 mm bolt.  The c14 bolt is 10 mm, so if one does not enlarge the shock cleat... ???  :eek: why... can't... I... grasp... this...  :eek:
 
Now I'm considering tapping the C10 bolt to create the bushing.  That way there's less moving around down there, aside from the bearings doing there job.
 
I have the C-14 shock mounted, and it turned out is was not a difficult job.  The only issue was the lower shock bushing.  I was going to make one out of the stock C-10 mount, but as it turns out I have a friend that is a retired machinist.  Called him up, he said come on over, and in a few minutes I had a perfect lower bushing.  It's nice to have friends with talent, and expensive tools.    ;D

I have only taken it for a short ride, and so far I like it a lot.  I plan on taking it for a 2 or 3 hundred mile run tomorrow.  I also put the Meanstreak with a PR 3 wheel on.  So far, the first thing I noticed is the bike is way simple to put on center stand.  I also noticed that on side stand the bike is leaning more.  Doesn't appear to be unstable, but there is a lot of lean.  Anyone that has done this, have you welded a plate or done something to give a little more height to the side stand?
 
I did this mod back in February but have only recently been able to enjoy the fruits of my labor.  I turned the preload to 28 clicks and it works great with my girlfriend on the back. It was the best mod that I have done.  I just drilled out the c-10 bottom bolt to make the bushing.  It took more time to get the old shock out and decide where to mount the reservoir.  It soaks up bumps that before would have bottomed out on me and in Pennsylvania it is easy to find these spots. 

The only issue I have is that it jacks the rear end up.  I want to get some lowering dog bones so that I can the height.  But I don't have the time or money for that yet...
 
Going to be doing this mod soon.
Where did you guys mount the pre-load adjuster?
Was the ZZR1200 bushing a direct replacement?
TIA
 
Great to hear! I mounted the preload adjuster on the left passenger peg bracket.  I got a little mending plate from the hardware store to give it something to grab onto; that's the most popular mounting location.  Someone on here may have a pic.  If you can find pics of Shoodaben, SiSF's bike has the adjuster mounted as I described.

The ZZR1200 bushing is a direct replacement.  I drilled the C-10 bolt.  Please PLEASE list the ZZR1200 bushing part number when you find it; that would be a huge help to this thread.

HTH!
 
This is where I mounted the preload adjuster when I had the ZZR shock on the bike.

IMG_0582.jpg
 
Beej said:
Great to hear! I mounted the preload adjuster on the left passenger peg bracket.  I got a little mending plate from the hardware store to give it something to grab onto; that's the most popular mounting location.  Someone on here may have a pic.  If you can find pics of Shoodaben, SiSF's bike has the adjuster mounted as I described.

The ZZR1200 bushing is a direct replacement.  I drilled the C-10 bolt.  Please PLEASE list the ZZR1200 bushing part number when you find it; that would be a huge help to this thread.

HTH!
Click to expand...
This it?
92160-1161

bushing.jpg
 
turbojoe78_MA said:
OK, I was in a hurry so I didn't take pictures.  When you have the C14 shock in your hand, a written description of what needs to be done becomes clear without the need for pictures ... here's what I did

The steel bushing at the top of the C14 shock didn't fit in the bracket on the bike so I had to grind/file some width off it till it fit, I would guess less than 1/16" overall.  (less than 1/32" off each side)  The bolt used on the C14 at the top is also smaller than the one for the C10, so I chose to drill the top bolt hole in the steel bushing out, and use the stock nut and bolt from the C10.

For the bottom mounting I purchased the stock nut, bolt and bushing for the C14.  The nut and bolt were used but the bushing's outside diameter is too small to be used in the C10 needle bearings so I had one made with a larger outside diameter.
I will try to get the length, ID and OD of the bushing so if someone is going to do this they could get it made before hand.

What I have noticed so far is, now the front of the bike seems to take the bumps much worse than the back.  With the stock rear shock the front and back felt much the same when going over bumps, so I guess what I'm feeling is how much better the C14 shock smooths out the bumps.  So now I'll be looking at getting emulators for the front as a winter project.
Click to expand...
You will love the emulators. I did that mod last year with 1kg sonic springs and a KB fork brace. very confidence inspiring.
 
oldsmoboat said:
Bump
Click to expand...

Yes! I believe that's the one.  Thanks for posting since it will be useful for others; I may pick one up myself actually.  I was never satisfied with the drilled C10 bolt.  Didn't seem clean enough.

 
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