Not sure if my oem tensioner is complete. Bike is an 86 c10. When removing the tensioner cap and washer, the only thing that was inside the tensioner was the spring. Looking up the tensioner on Google and also watching Steve's video about cam rplacement/valve adjust it looks like there should also be a metal pin? Just want to make sure all years should have this pin which I'm assuming keeps the spring straight? The spring that came out looks like its been a little twisted up while in there...
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Cam chain tensioner internals
- Thread starter zapper1116623
- Start date
Thanks, I guess I will either get a used tensioner off eBay just to swap the spring and rod or manual tensioner. The ratcheting part of the tensioner seems to function properly. Does anyone know/have a recommendation for a manual tensioner on the older bikes? The ape tensioner says it works with model years 86-whatever the latest year was but I read in another post on here Steve had said the ape is not correct for the earlier models.
If your bike is an '86, and the installed tensioner has a spring under the cap, that IS NOT the original tensioner for that year bike. Those models had a clock spring arrangement whose spring wasn't evident by removing the cap. The installed tensioner has been installed by someone at a later date, and the rod (to keep the spring straight and true) has gone missing in action at some point.
Go to a hobby store and pick up a length of brass rod whose OD will fit inside the spring. Whack off about a 3/4" length, insert it in the spring, and put the mess into the tensioner.
I've had an APE for 10 years now on my 87 . No issues at all except for a very slight oil leak .
I thought that was the case, the manual I have shows the clock spring arrangement so I was a little confused when I took it apart and it did not match the picture. Thanks for the suggestion, it definitely matches my budget
Definitely beats paying the $60-$70 for a manual tensioner, even if I do eventually switch to one down the road.
When you’re ready to reinstall the tensioner, press on the little pawl rocker that sits above the toothed plunger, so it will allow you to push the plunger back into the tensioner body as far as possible. Once the tensioner is bolted back in place, and before you try to insert the spring and the rod, take a skinny screw driver, insert it into the back of the tensioner and push the plunger as far forward as it will go. Once done, now insert the spring, the rod, and replace the cap.I thought that was the case, the manual I have shows the clock spring arrangement so I was a little confused when I took it apart and it did not match the picture. Thanks for the suggestion, it definitely matches my budget
Definitely beats paying the $60-$70 for a manual tensioner, even if I do eventually switch to one down the road.
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Did this and it worked like a charm. Instead of the brass rod I had a grinding bur from the cheap rotary tool from harbor freight. I just chopped the abrasive bit off the end and it was a perfect fit.
Glad it worked out. There are a gazillion pieces of metal that would work, but the brass rod was the only thing I could think of at the time that you could test fit in a hobby store.