• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Center Stand question.

PACH

Member
Member
i have a 2017 Concourse 14 thats been lowered by previous owner and he took the center stand off. So I just been using the side stand. I’ve always had center stands on previous connie and other bikes and miss it. I have the center stand and would like to install it. Question is since bike is lowered would it be a problem when riding or when putting bike on it ? Do I have to shorten the center stand or is it best to not have a center stand with lowered bike?
 

Attachments

  • 6A1F0E1B-8A76-4C9A-A761-A8C1B76233A9.jpeg
    6A1F0E1B-8A76-4C9A-A761-A8C1B76233A9.jpeg
    356.2 KB · Views: 72
  • 968497E0-FC46-45FA-AC2D-5E7332B21AEB.jpeg
    968497E0-FC46-45FA-AC2D-5E7332B21AEB.jpeg
    184 KB · Views: 74
  • 5012AB77-D483-454B-9E15-FEF8506E9483.jpeg
    5012AB77-D483-454B-9E15-FEF8506E9483.jpeg
    179.8 KB · Views: 70
I bought my C10 lowered. Unless the stand is shortened, it's quite a lift to get it up. The C14 is easier. Just depends on how much you lower it. As far as riding goes, it was easy to get the center stand to drag in the twisties. This would apply to the C14, with differences of course. I didn't need it to be lower, so I sold the lowering kit. I would suggest other methods to deal with the seat height. Thick soled boots. Lower seat. Look at Ted's seat for example. If that doesn't get you there, then lower it a smidge. Your riding style should also be factored in. I just want all the clearance I can get and I like having a center stand. HTH
 
PACH,
Do you have any idea how much the bike is lowered?
That amount will indicate how much the c-stand needs to be shortened.
I shortened mine several years ago and no problems.
Relatively EZ to do if you're a welder?

I have photo's of a C-14 center-stand with tape on it indicating where to cut and weld it back together.
The images are somewhere on this Forum (Bud may know where they are) or PM me a cell number and I can text them to you.

Ride safe, Ted
 
i have a 2017 Concourse 14 thats been lowered by previous owner and he took the center stand off. So I just been using the side stand. I’ve always had center stands on previous connie and other bikes and miss it. I have the center stand and would like to install it. Question is since bike is lowered would it be a problem when riding or when putting bike on it ? Do I have to shorten the center stand or is it best to not have a center stand with lowered bike?
As already mentioned it’s a feat to get the 14 on the center stand if machine is lowered a couple inches. Customer’s machine I am working on now has the 14 lowered by 2 inches and I used a 2x4 to make hopping up in the center stand easier.

Can it be done without the aid of a 2x4 YES but takes significant more effort.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
PACH,
Do you have any idea how much the bike is lowered?
That amount will indicate how much the c-stand needs to be shortened.
I shortened mine several years ago and no problems.
Relatively EZ to do if you're a welder?

I have photo's of a C-14 center-stand with tape on it indicating where to cut and weld it back together.
The images are somewhere on this Forum (Bud may know where they are) or PM me a cell number and I can text them to you.

Ride safe, Ted
I can't find it Ted.
 
As already mentioned it’s a feat to get the 14 on the center stand if machine is lowered a couple inches. Customer’s machine I am working on now has the 14 lowered by 2 inches and I used a 2x4 to make hopping up in the center stand easier.

Can it be done without the aid of a 2x4 YES but takes significant more effort.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Lol, i.keep a 2x4 6 inches long in my trunk for getting it up on the centerstand. And mine is t lowered....lol
 
Thanx Stubby.
On my picture the tape colors indicate where to cut and modify.
First; you need to build a spacer (green) to hold the top pieces apart the correct amount and straight.
Next; cut out the orange section (I removed 1").
Next; cut off/move the yellow pieces down the same amount (1") as the material you removed.
Last; weld it all back together.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
I've had two C14's, both lowered with Muzzy links. Center stand clearance was never a problem but impossible to raise onto center stand w/o help. I made a 2"x18" ramp out of 2x6 board. Back it up onto little ramp and pop up on center stand. Easy.
 
I've had two C14's, both lowered with Muzzy links. Center stand clearance was never a problem but impossible to raise onto center stand w/o help. I made a 2"x18" ramp out of 2x6 board. Back it up onto little ramp and pop up on center stand. Easy.

What do you do if out on the road without the stand, er ramp?
 
Last edited:
PACH,
Do you have any idea how much the bike is lowered?
That amount will indicate how much the c-stand needs to be shortened.
I shortened mine several years ago and no problems.
Relatively EZ to do if you're a welder?

I have photo's of a C-14 center-stand with tape on it indicating where to cut and weld it back together.
The images are somewhere on this Forum (Bud may know where they are) or PM me a cell number and I can text them to you.

Ride safe, Ted
Yea i bought it like that. not sure exact amount it was lowered. I was on balls of my feet with my previous 09 connie. This lowered 17 I am near flat footn it. My guess is 1 1/2
 
Thanks all.
Seems like center stand will need to be shortened and it may also drag when riding twisties.
 
You should drive one of these adventure bikes, you'l see what a high seat is all about, I hate it, I might be 5'11" but I have short legs and long arms.

This new KTM I bought is tall, but less than 400lbs

Right after buying the 14 I ordered a Corbin seat which are designed to be lower, that made the difference to me, 700 lb of bike is a bitcho
 
I must be lucky, but since 1972 my first road bike, I've never been stranded with a flat on the road.
 
I must be lucky, but since 1972 my first road bike, I've never been stranded with a flat on the road.
Only time I ever got a flat, well it actually never went flat, picked up a nail on the first set of replacement tires I put on my 79’ KZ750. Got home from the dealer and saw the nail, checked for leak - none. Left the nail in and limped to the dealer.

Dealership, replacing my ‘magnetic tire’, then dropped my bike and busted the clutch reservoir, replacement never worked the same…. Thinking it was a generic with a different size piston or stroke. They went out of business months later, l took my automotive interest - purchased manuals and began doing all my own work.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
I got a nail in the rear tire while on a ride.
Nail was sorta sideways into the tire and sticking out quite a bit, with had a tiny leak.
Unfortunately every rotation the nail clicked when it hit the road surface and I was afraid of it tearing the hole larger. The steep angle made a std repair impractical.
I stopped at a gas station, bought a tube of superglue gel, let the air out of the tire and squeezed some in.
15 minutes later, added air and was on my way again.
The Superglue stopped the leak and NEVER leaked again.
 
Finally got around to attempt to install center stand. Lowering link is in the way to install and or prevents the center stand to function. Am I missing something with this ? I gave up and will not have center stand. How do others with lowering links get center stand to install and work?
 
Finally got around to attempt to install center stand. Lowering link is in the way to install and or prevents the center stand to function. Am I missing something with this ? I gave up and will not have center stand. How do others with lowering links get center stand to install and work?
Ted found that some stock links from a ZX6 or something would lower it and you wouldn't have that problem. I'm sure he'll be along shortly to give you the particulars. Then you might want to shorten the center stand. Some do some don't.
 
ah. gotcha. thanks Bud.
so change to different lowering links and then shorten center stand.
or
go back to stock height and center stand.
or
leave it as is with no center stand.
 
ah. gotcha. thanks Bud.
so change to different lowering links and then shorten center stand.
or
go back to stock height and center stand.
or
leave it as is with no center stand.
I’ve also seen lowering links and leave center stand stock - takes some extra grunt to get the C-14 up there but can be done.

Also when I’ve worked on ones described as above I just throw down a small chunk of 2x8 and park the machine’s rear tire on it. The 1-1/2” board thickness is more than enough to make the uplift no biggie.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Pach, u may want to check.out the thread lowering links for more info on replacing those adjustable inks. U won't be able to use the centeratand with those.
 
Pach, u may want to check.out the thread lowering links for more info on replacing those adjustable inks. U won't be able to use the centeratand with those.
Thanks for confirming. Now I know. i was going crazy trying to fit that in.
 
As I recall, I didn't have to do anything with the links when I modified my Center stand.
I just removed the stand, shortened it, and re-installed.

Let me do some research; Buzzzzzzzz (Thinking/mad scientist/Research sounds) 🧐
Ahh Haaaa. I see it...

The issue you have is your using Soupy's adjustable lowering Links.
The Soupy's Links are straight/not offset. Uses a spacer to clearance the spring.
I also think that the Soupy's Links have a larger diameter at the lower bolt area than the OEM Links.
Stock links (or other std style Lowering Links) are "offset" to clear the spring and they don't have a bearing in them because the bolt pivots inside of the rocker.

For Comparison:
ZG-1400 rocker with Soupy's Links.

ZG-1400 rocker with OEM Links.
NOTE: I'm showing OEM Link's that are mounted on the rocker so that you can see the width of the link and the offset for the spring.

Here are ZX-600 E stock links. They are longer than the C-14 Links and will lower your bike about 1 1/4".
Just bolt them on and you're done.
NOTE: (Again) I'm showing 600 E OEM Link's "that are mounted on the rocker" so that you can see the width of the link and the offset for the spring. EZ to buy the Links only.

Here are T-Rex Lowering Links

Here are some Chinese Lowering Links for a C-14.

Let me know if I can help.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
As I recall, I didn't have to do anything with the links when I modified my Center stand.
I just removed the stand, shortened it, and re-installed.

Let me do some research; Buzzzzzzzz (Thinking/Research sounds) 🧐
Ahh Haaaa. I see it...

The issue you have is your using a Soupy's adjustable lowering Links.
The Soupy's Links are straight/not offset. Uses a spacer to clearance the spring.
I also think that the Soupy's Links have a larger diameter at the lower bolt area than the OEM Links.
Stock links (or other std style Lowering Links) are "offset" to clear the spring and they don't have a bearing in them because the bolt pivots inside of the rocker.

For Comparison:
ZG-1400 rocker with Soupy's Links.

ZG-1400 rocker with OEM Links.
NOTE: I'm showing OEM Link's that are mounted on the rocker so that you can see the width of the link and the offset for the spring.

Here are ZX-600 E stock links. They are longer than the C-14 Links and will lower your bike about 1 1/4".
Just bolt them on and you're done.
NOTE: (Again) I'm showing 600 E OEM Link's "that are mounted on the rocker" so that you can see the width of the link and the offset for the spring. EZ to buy the Links only.

Here are T-Rex Lowering Links

Here are some Chinese Lowering Links for a C-14.

Let me know if I can help.

Ride safe, Ted
Thanks. will do
 
Having problems finding just the OEM Links. Found only 1 for $27 and it's pretty dirty..
But I found a clean rocker and Links for only $18.50. Woo hoo!!
Such-a-deal..

 
Last edited:
H'mm timely discussion. Just traded my 08 for a nice 17 and it too has those Soupy's adjustable links with no centerstand. PO used them to raise it higher. I found a centerstand and stock links on Ebay. Any tips on raising the bike up to install a centerstand? I could buy a separate stand but there's enough junk already in the garage that only gets used once every 5 years. Thanks
 
You may be in luck.
I'm pretty certain that the OEM Links are approx. the same length (probably about 1/4" longer) than the Soupy's that are on your bike. Also, (I think) the Soupy's can be adjusted in place.

Possible plan;
Secure the front of the bike with straps.
(do it like it's on a trailer, but use less compression on the forks)
Jack up the rear of the bike by placing the jack below the rocker.
** Remove 1 Soupy's Link and replace with an OEM Link.
** Remove 2nd Soupy's Link and replace with an OEM Link.

Done...

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bud
Thanks Ted for the suggestion. I'll give it some thought. Yeah I could adjust the Soupy's links to be the same length as the OEM and then . . . Wait though aren't both links attached with the same bolt and would make changing one link at a time difficult. But if I can use the straps to secure the front of the bike and jack up the rear at the rocker, then make a stack of blocks to put under the swing arms to hold it up, remove the jack, Soupy's links, and install the centerstand, then install the oem links. That may be a plan.
 
Pete, your correct. I didn't think it thru when I posted the steps.
Think I have a solution;
I think (with the rear jacked up at the rocker) you can pull the OEM/long bolts 1/2 way thru in preparation of installing the first Link.
Then Install that first link using 2 shorter bolts. (push them thru until they touch the longer bolts at the center).
Next; remove the longer bolts in preparation for the 2nd Link.
Then Install that 2nd link using 2 OEM/longer bolts. (push them thru until they touch the longer bolts at the center).
Lastly push the longer bolts completely thru into the First Link and install the nuts.

I like your idea but I think the bike will drop when you remove the Links and the swing arm will go up.
(??)
Idea; With the rear jacked up at the rocker, I think you could also install a jack under the headers and support the weight of the bike when you remove the links? (It would not be total weight as the rocker/jack is supporting a lot of the load.

I've done similar but was concerned that the headers could be damaged.
To prevent damage. I placed a water bottle (with air only in it) to act as a Cushion.

Another thought; On the Soupy Links the bolt {with the spacers on it} looks to be longer than the OEM Bolt?
If so, be sure to purchase an OEM bolt to use in that location.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
I don't remember where I saw this. I think it was to install lowering links on a Versys 650. Use an auto scissor jack between the rear wheel and the bottom of the seat/ inner fender area. It will do the function of the shock system and will be adjustable to help with the removal and installation of the hardware. I don't have a C-14 so I have no idea of what is strong enough under there to support the back of the bike. You may have to put something between the fender and the aft sub frame.

When I lowered my 650 I had the front wheel in a wheel chock and jacked up the back at the passenger foot peg mount brackets. I had a jack on each side.
 
You have a good point on the jacking at the foot pegs. Will be difficult as the pegs fold and it will be difficult to get the jacks in the right position. But should be doable.

On the tire to inner fender. Might work. Hadn't thought of that.
Like you, I'm not sure where it would fit nor the strength in the inner fender area.

Ideally you would just jack the bike up and put it on the center stand.
From there it's EZ to do the Links.
With your Soupy Links blocking the holes, installing a center stand is the issue.

Just realized that Pete might not have Soupy Links on his bike.
If not, he can just install his Center stand, and then do his Links.
(Pete, are you there?)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Hi Guys thanks for the replies. It does have Soupy's adjustable links. They look just like the ones Pach posted above. So yeah it's kind of tricky.

I'm not sure if the bike would drop jacked on the rocker without the links since the shock is still there and now without any leverage from the swingarm everything is stiffer I think. The shock is now supporting the bike directly. Sound reasonable? The swingarm and tire would drop. I'd have to keep the jack there though, since you're right in that if I relied on the swingarm using blocks it would not work. Adding some amount of support under the headers is probably a good idea to help stabilize the bike. Haven't looked at the inner fender to see whats there. Thanks!
 
Somehow you have to support the aft frame, not the swingarm. I could get the jack to the passenger peg mount bracket, not the peg itself. The wheel chock held the front stable. But that was on a 650, not a 1400 CC bike. You have a lot more weight and expense if something goes wrong. Be careful.
 
If ur needing to support the rear of the bike and have garage with exposed rafters, use a couple ratchet straps hung from rafter to passenger grab handles, or some other sturdy point...
 
Good idea. (Please don't tell anyone I sed Konehead had a good idea) o_O
I was trying to think of something to suspend the bike from.
Would the grab handles support that much weight?
Mebbe the combination of placing/keeping a jack under the rocker and the suspension is the best solution?

Pete; Why did he install the Soupy's? To raise or lower the bike?
Are you wanting the bike at stock height, or will it be lowered?
If you want it lowered the ZX-600E Links will work for you. (Post #30)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Konehead, I wasn't sure if the passenger grab handles could support the weight of the bike. I do have an engine hoist. I was wondering about hooking in at the bottom rear frame rails just in front of the passenger pegs also. Just wondering what the best place to lift it from. Maybe secure the front of the bike like Ted mentioned, then use the jack under the rocker to raise it along with having straps from the hoist to the grab rails to share the load and keep it steady.

Ted not sure what the PO was after, although the way the Soupy's are set right now, looks like he wanted it higher. I'd like to have stock height with a center-stand. Having adjust-ability is kind of cool but I like having a center-stand.

It does look like there are two flat spots on the frame just outside the center-stand mounts, although the mid-pipe & muffler have to be removed to access the spot on the right side. Looks like they were intended for some kind of jack fixture, maybe? Best would be to pick it up somewhere with the engine hoist.

Yeah, I'd like to know how they do it when the Soupy's are installed. . . . Yes I'm certainly going to be careful. Not something to rush into.

Thanks guys!
 
Strap the front end down and remove the strap going to the front. That rear strap goes thru to the other side. You may have to restrict the rear strap from sliding up the subframe rails. Or do it as shown with someone holding the bike stable.
 

Attachments

  • 20210525_182452.jpg
    20210525_182452.jpg
    131.9 KB · Views: 73
I have 3 Kawasaki Links here.
Stock C-14, ZX-600, and ZX-1400.
C-14 measures 6.2" hole to hole. Stock height
ZX-600 measures 6.6" hole to hole. Lowers bike approx. 1 1/2"
ZX-1400 measures 7.0" hole to hole. Lowers bike approx. 3"

If the hole length of your Soupy's are longer than 6.2" the bike will be lowered.
If the hole length of your Soupy's are shorter than 6.2" the bike will be raised.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the picture Laker. Looks like the rear strap goes under both the lower sub-frame rails and upper swing-arm strut? The passenger peg mounts should keep the strap from sliding up much. Front one goes to the upper triple tree?

Yeah Ted, the Soupy's are adjusted to 5.9x" hole to hole the best I could estimate. Definitely raised. PO maybe was maybe a big heavy guy? Front fork preloads are in a little more than I had my 08 at. Probably won't tackle the centerstand this week-end. Been a hectic week with the storms here. Still have other farkles to move over. Thanks for the ideas.
 
Looks like the rear strap goes under both the lower sub-frame rails and upper swing-arm strut?
Yes
Front one goes to the upper triple tree?
Yes, if you do it as shown nothing will move. If you eliminate the strap going to the triple clamp, then I believe you would be correct about the rear foot peg mounts would retain the strap.

There's another picture in the current suspension thread that shows another way. But you would need a lift table with a front tire vise.
 
Removed the Soupy's and installed the stock links and center-stand on Saturday. I picked up the back like Laker suggested but held the front with straps on the handle bars tied to two riding mowers. I did take it easy on the tension on the bars. It just needed enough to keep it level. And also chocked the front wheel. Don't want to do this again any time soon but it's done. Thanks for all the help.


0819231235.jpg
 
Refresh my old feeble brain.
You removed the Soupy's (that were shortened to raise the bike) and installed stock Links and center stand?

Ride safe, Ted

PS: If you didn't re-adjust the Soupy's, what was the length between holes?
 
Thanks Laker, It worked OK. Had to lift gently and adjust straps as needed to level it.

Ted, yes I removed the Soupy's. The length between the holes was about 5.9" when I bought it. I did adjust them to closer to 6.15 to lower it some before I took them off. Just used a ruler. The original owner must have wanted it raised. And then I installed the Ebay centerstand after putting on the stock links, although I should have put the CS on first, cause it's hard to get the wrench in there to tighten the CS bolts with the links and rocker in the way. I still have to do that but was tired after all that. Actually my shock from my 08 was recently reworked by Daugherty so I kept it and plan to swap it on. I had an extra from Ebay on the 08 when I traded it.
 
Update:
Finally the center stand is on!

I used front wheel stand to stabilize front, floor jack to lift bike at rocker and jack stands to stabilize swing arm / rear wheel.

Installed center stand first. Then I used 2x4 under rear tire to adjust so i could remove bolts with Soupy links. I then installed stock links. I’ll get standard measurement and then will install 600links Ted found for me. Should be easy now that i have center stand on.
Links 45lbs torqued.
Center stand gudentite tightened.


thanks to all and most big thanks to Connie_rider Mr Super Ted. Graciously guided me throughout this whole process. Been riding forever but this mechanical newbie couldn’t have done it without you Ted.
 
thanks to all and most big thanks to Connie_rider Mr Super Ted. Graciously guided me throughout this whole process. Been riding forever but this mechanical newbie couldn’t have done it without you Ted.

Houston is 500 miles from here, but somehow I can see Ted's head swelling. I sure hope he put wide doors in that new house!
 
Swapped out the stock links to ninja 600 links. Center stand made it easy peezy! Center stand all the way from now on. No more debating about that.

As for the drop in height, the 600 links came in exactly in the middle between the Soupys and stock links. About 11/4 in lower than stock 11/4 taller than soupys. Basically i gained a center stand but lost 11/4 in. I am very good with this until Ted finds me another 11/4 in 🤣
 
I have 3 Kawasaki Links here.
Stock C-14, ZX-600, and ZX-1400.
C-14 measures 6.2" hole to hole. Stock height
ZX-600 measures 6.6" hole to hole. Lowers bike approx. 1 1/2"
ZX-1400 measures 7.0" hole to hole. Lowers bike approx. 3"

If the hole length of your Soupy's are longer than 6.2" the bike will be lowered.
If the hole length of your Soupy's are shorter than 6.2" the bike will be raised.

Maybe this will help someone. I found the calculations I did when I built my Link. See below;
When I built my Link, I did calculations to see how much "incremental length increases" would lower the back of the bike. The ones marked "measured" were measured / not calculated.
Below is my guestimation..
NOTE: It's not perfect, but good e'nuff for now...
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

C-14 Lowering Link changes /Calculations.
[I used a 0.312 {ratio} to determine approx. drop]
(ie; Link (length) Increase divided by .312 -- to get the Calculated amount bike will be lowered)
________________________________________________________________________________________________
Link****Hole to Hole*****Longer than Stock****Amount Rear Lowered

Stock Link-----6.165"-------------0.000"----------------Stock Height
Ted's Link-----6.423"-------------0.258"----------------0.827" {Calculated}
Muzzy Link---6.535"-------------0.370"-----------------1.188" {Calculated}
ZX-600 Link--6.610"-------------0.445"-----------------1.426" {Calculated}
ZX-14 Link----6.985"------------ 0.820"-----------------2.628" {Calculated}

NOTE: I modified a ZX-14 Link to make my Link. (by cutting away material and rewelding)
So "Material to be removed" was the material I removed from the ZX-14 Link.
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Link-----Material to be removed---Finished Length------Increase in length-----Amount Rear
------------from a ZX-14 Link---------{hole to hole}---------over Stock Link-------Lowered
Stock Link
------0.00"----------------- 6.165" Measured -------------0.00"-------------Stock Height
-----------------0.813" / {13/16"}-------6.173"-------------------------0.008"------------0.026" {Calculated}
-----------------0.750" / {3/4"}----------6.350"-------------------------0.070"------------0.224" {Calculated}
-----------------0.688" / {11/16"}-------6. 298"-------------------------0.133"------------0.426" {Calculated}
-----------------0.625" / {5/8"}----------6.360"-------------------------0.195"-------------0.625" {Calculated}
-----------------0.573 " / 37/64"--------6.412"--------------------------0.247"------------0.792" {Calculated}
(Ted's Link)
---0.563" / {9/16"}-------6.423"--------------------------0.258"-----------0.827" {Calculated}
-----------------0.500" / {1/2"}---------6.485"---------------------------0.320"------------1.026" {Calculated}
Muzzy Link --------------------------- 6.535" Measured ------------ 0.370"---------- 1.1875" (Calculated)

-----------------0.4375" / {7/16"}-------6.548"---------------------------0.383"------------1.228" {Calculated}
ZX-600 Link
---0.375" / {3/8"}--------6.610" Measured--------------0.445"-----------1.426" {Calculated}
-----------------0.312" / {5/16"}---------6.673"---------------------------0.508"------------1.628" {Calculated}
-----------------0.250" / {1/4"}-----------6. 735"--------------------------0.570"------------1.827" {Calculated}
-----------------0.1875" / {3/16"}--------6.798"---------------------------0.633"------------2.029" {Calculated}
-----------------0.125" / {1/8"}-----------6.860"---------------------------0.695"------------2.228" {Calculated}
-----------------0.0625"/ {1/16"}---------6.923"---------------------------0.758 "-----------2.429" {Calculated}
ZX-14 Link------------------------------ 6.985" Measured--------------0.820"-----------2.628" {Calculated}
 
Last edited:
I don't see mention of the front end? I assume the front end has been raised up in the triple clamps to level the bike? a quick glance at my bike and it seems that raising the forks up about 1.5" would cause tension in some of the cables/wires/hoses on throttle side? Mine has 2" handlebar risers so your mileage may vary. Can someone who has done this comment?
 
Raising the tubes/lowering the front makes more slack in the cables, not less.

Because the handlebars are directly over the fork tubes, you can't raise the tubes 1 1/2".
But the tubes should be raised/front end lowered after lowering the rear as much as you can.
(I think that is about 3/4".

Ride safe, Ted
 
"Raising the tubes/lowering the front makes more slack in the cables, not less."

How so? If you had individual brake hoses that ran from the master cylinder to the brakes, then yes, you would increase slack in the hoses. But none of the cables/wires/hose are attached to anything that would move if the forks are raised? I looked at my bike a little more thoroughly. The throttle cables appear to have enough slack. The brake hose (the section attached to master cylinder) also has enough slack and is out of the way mounted to my 2" risers. The electrical lines will not let the forks up much before the top of forks hit the wires and they don't have much slack. remember, I have 2" risers on so others may vary. In my case, I would have to remove the connector that holds the wires to the lower triple tree, then maybe they could be slid in that connector to give more slack. having the risers allows you to be able to raise the fork tubes more than if you don't have them. at some point, you have to consider the fender hitting the area below the headlight when suspension compressed though. Not sure how much space there is between them when suspension fully compressed?

I am 6'1" so not considering lowering mine but just thought it might be helpful to remind people that if they use links, they should try to level the bike by adjusting the front. Not doing so would mess up the rake/trail and if I am recalling it correctly, make the bike more stable but slow down the steering-heavier, defeating the benefit of getting rid of those OEM tires!
 
You are correct.
1) I had forgot about the connector that is attached to the triple tree.
2) The front end does need to be lowered too to keep close to the original geometry.
An advantage of the risers is a person can move the fork tubes a bit more too.
 
Other than the bike being to tall for a short rider, why would you want to lower a Concours 1400? You lose ground clearance in the twisties which is why these motorcycles are so fun to ride. The center stand is a very useful item for oil changes and tire changes for myself. I can get the rear tire and center stand high enough with a couple layers of 3/4 plywood to get it into position to change the front wheel without any hassle.
 
I acquired a new 2015 Connie 14 in March of that year. In the beginning, when I was 69 years of age, I could, with much effort, get the Connie up on its center stand, with the Preload cranked up to the highest level. Since then, I have devolved physically to such an extent that I can no longer manhandle this 700 lb beast up on the center stand. :mad:

So, for some time, I have been trying to come up with a (safe) system for raising the bike to do this. Having read this discussion, I am encouraged by the intelligent responses and the various solutions proffered. I am 6' tall with 32" inseam so I can easily plant both feet on the ground when stopped. No need for lowering the suspension. But, I am wary of trying to back up on a piece of 2x4" under the rear tire and still maintain stable foot contact. 😦

Just like Pete_COG_TN I have MC Enterprises small saddlebag guards that are mounted on the sub-frame where the passenger pegs are. Thanks to Laker9142's picture of his Connie completely suspended in the air, it is obvious that the COG of this machine is the center of the rider's seat (where it probably should be). But, that means that at least 50% of the bike's total 700 lbs is from that point back. However, I would keep the front wheel on the ground in a chock, so the amount of weight needed to lift the rear of the bike would be a lot less, say, 45% of the total weight. Does that sound reasonable? :unsure:

If I was to use HD cargo straps from those saddlebag guards (only about a foot behind the rider's seat) strapped to an overhead crane (gantry?), could this be done safely and without damaging the sub-frame? I'm going to need to get her up soon to replace the rubber on the rear wheel. Any comments? 🥺
 
I acquired a new 2015 Connie 14 in March of that year. In the beginning, when I was 69 years of age, I could, with much effort, get the Connie up on its center stand, with the Preload cranked up to the highest level. Since then, I have devolved physically to such an extent that I can no longer manhandle this 700 lb beast up on the center stand. :mad:

So, for some time, I have been trying to come up with a (safe) system for raising the bike to do this. Having read this discussion, I am encouraged by the intelligent responses and the various solutions proffered. I am 6' tall with 32" inseam so I can easily plant both feet on the ground when stopped. No need for lowering the suspension. But, I am wary of trying to back up on a piece of 2x4" under the rear tire and still maintain stable foot contact. 😦

Just like Pete_COG_TN I have MC Enterprises small saddlebag guards that are mounted on the sub-frame where the passenger pegs are. Thanks to Laker9142's picture of his Connie completely suspended in the air, it is obvious that the COG of this machine is the center of the rider's seat (where it probably should be). But, that means that at least 50% of the bike's total 700 lbs is from that point back. However, I would keep the front wheel on the ground in a chock, so the amount of weight needed to lift the rear of the bike would be a lot less, say, 45% of the total weight. Does that sound reasonable? :unsure:

If I was to use HD cargo straps from those saddlebag guards (only about a foot behind the rider's seat) strapped to an overhead crane (gantry?), could this be done safely and without damaging the sub-frame? I'm going to need to get her up soon to replace the rubber on the rear wheel. Any comments? 🥺
I dont back up onto my 2x6, i.place my 'ramped' 2x6 infront of the rear wheel, giving myself enough room to gain some momentum to walk my bike up onto.the ramp.
 
Thanks to Laker9142's picture of his Connie completely suspended in the air, it is obvious that the COG of this machine is the center of the rider's seat (where it probably should be). But, that means that at least 50% of the bike's total 700 lbs is from that point back.
If you look close at that picture you will see a strap going to the handlebar area holding up the front end. The rear is quite a bit lighter than the front. I'm guessing 400/300.
If I was to use HD cargo straps from those saddlebag guards (only about a foot behind the rider's seat) strapped to an overhead crane (gantry?), could this be done safely and without damaging the sub-frame? I'm going to need to get her up soon to replace the rubber on the rear wheel. Any comments?
I don't know about the saddlebag guards, but I believe Pete ran a strap under the subframe and lifted it with no problems He also had some straps going to some lawn tractors for stability if I remember correctly.
*********************************************************************

I would look into a pit stand to get the rear off the ground, prior to using the centerstand.

I would also try a different technique for raising the bike to the centerstand. I can literally do it with 2 fingers on the handlebar and 2 on the plastic bar that holds the rear cargo plate on.
The technique is this,
*With one hand on the handlebar and the other on the bar by the seat. Foot on the centerstand.
* Get the bike leveled out so both legs of centerstand are on the ground. Don't put much weight on the centerstand at this point. Just enough to level the bike.
*Now go from 0 to 100% effort in the first quarter of a second. The bike will jump up on the stand almost by itself.
*The reason is, you're using the energy stored in the fork and shock springs to get the bike moving. Once it's moving the momentum takes over and puts it over center.
*If you go slow or raise the bike to the top of the suspension travel first, it's very hard to lift it the rest of the way,
*This technique works well, but if you have a bad back or have devolved physically to a point where you can't do it, then a pit stand would be worth a try.
 
If you look close at that picture you will see a strap going to the handlebar area holding up the front end. The rear is quite a bit lighter than the front. I'm guessing 400/300.

I don't know about the saddlebag guards, but I believe Pete ran a strap under the subframe and lifted it with no problems He also had some straps going to some lawn tractors for stability if I remember correctly.
*********************************************************************

I would look into a pit stand to get the rear off the ground, prior to using the centerstand.

I would also try a different technique for raising the bike to the centerstand. I can literally do it with 2 fingers on the handlebar and 2 on the plastic bar that holds the rear cargo plate on.
The technique is this,
*With one hand on the handlebar and the other on the bar by the seat. Foot on the centerstand.
* Get the bike leveled out so both legs of centerstand are on the ground. Don't put much weight on the centerstand at this point. Just enough to level the bike.
*Now go from 0 to 100% effort in the first quarter of a second. The bike will jump up on the stand almost by itself.
*The reason is, you're using the energy stored in the fork and shock springs to get the bike moving. Once it's moving the momentum takes over and puts it over center.
*If you go slow or raise the bike to the top of the suspension travel first, it's very hard to lift it the rest of the way,
*This technique works well, but if you have a bad back or have devolved physically to a point where you can't do it, then a pit stand would be worth a try.
I never thought of a pit stand. That might be in my future. My right foot has taken a beating over the years and reminds me of that often.
 
Yeah I threaded the strap at the location shown under the sub-frame and swing-arm and it gets captured in that cavity. Yes and then strap the handle bars with light tension to a couple of riding mowers on either side for stability. To get on the centerstand I roll the back tire on a deck plank or even a piece of half-inch plywood is enough to make it much easier to pop up on the centerstand. I'm a bit cautions about pulling on those bag-guards too; where they're bolted on at the pass-peg mounts doesn't look really strong. I was thinking using a pit stand is tricky on the swing-arm of a C14. Probably do-able.
 

Attachments

  • Frame-lift-close-up2.JPG
    Frame-lift-close-up2.JPG
    55.1 KB · Views: 25
Hey Konehead, Laker, and Pete! Thanks so much for your quick replies and suggestions. :D

I'm going to see if I can walk the bike up on to a piece of 2x6" in front of the rear wheel. I'm just concerned that I might run out of room on my lift as it doesn't have that much length overall. I could definitely pre-try this on the cement floor of my garage where there would be plenty of "run up" or "back up" space.

I'm encouraged to know that the amount of weight of the back end can be lifted with straps under the sub-frame. And Pete - yes, I'm not liking the prospects of using the passenger peg mounts either. But, overall, I am inclined to believe that the sub-frame was well enough designed to safely suspend all that rear end weight and, if Laker can lift his bike from the sub-frame, I can certainly try that method too. I will need some kind of crane but I don't really want to shell out big bucks to acquire one. Perhaps I can rent one.

I have never seen a pit stand. I'm not sure I would know how to find one or use it. :unsure:

Anyway, I will give these suggestions a try, after Christmas is done and report back on my success 😁 or failure 😠.

Thanks. Alan. :love:
 
Last edited:
I have a 2011 C14 with standard Muzzy lowering links, that drop the bike about 1.5" measured at the rear luggage rack. I've never experienced a clearance problem with the stock center stand when riding. The bike cannot be lifted onto the center stand by a solitary mortal.

I made a 2" x 18" ramp from 2 2x6's glued together and cut down. After backing the bike up to a stop i added to the ramp, I can easily pull the bike up onto the center stand as normal.

After pulling out the ramp, removing the rear wheel at this point is simple and routine.
 
Why not just shorten the center stand?
I did so and it's now EZ to get onto center stand and it can be done anywhere.
(without taking a board with you to set the wheel on)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bud
So GRR 125, you lowered your suspension by 1.5" and, using a short ramp made from pieces of 2"x6"s, you can haul your C14 up on the stand with ease? Wow! 😦 You must be working out at the gym a lot! Me, I'm 77 yo and can't lift half the the weight I could even when I was in my 40s. 😠

connie_rider, shortening the center stand seems like a lot of work and time, given that I don't really need to use it that often. I have the tools to section out the supports, but, I'm not a welder. I would be depending on someone else to do this work and I worry that the shortened stand would not be properly aligned with the brackets and safe to use. Safety is my main concern. But, I'll still think on this for a while longer. We'll see. ;)
 
My apologies. You're correct. It does take a bit of thought, tools, work to get it right.
A person definitely needs to have fabrication/welding skills and the equipment to do it.

(After it's completed) it's actually safer than it was originally. (as it's so EZ to get the bike on the stand)

On this discussion is a photo of my stand (before cutting/welding) with instructions on where to cut the stand, and what pieces need to be relocated. See posts 7, 8 on this discussion.
** I used a piece of All-thread (green tape) to locate the brackets at the correct distance while welding.
,,,,,, The All-tread held everything in place very securely during the welding.

NOTE: My center-stand is actually modified more than the photo shows.
I (later) installed a left muffler on my bike, so I cut off the foot and moved it outwards to clear that muffler.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
"...I'm 77 yo and can't lift half the the weight I could even when I was in my 40s."
I'm 74 and not lifting any weight; i use the leverage and momentum inherent in the proper use of the center stand. I could lift up my Gl1800 in bare feet when done properly. There are numerous youtube videos that illustrate this. Just exercise patience and care.✌️
 
Fwiw, I was wrong in the thickness of my helper ramp. I also use a piece of decking which is 1 1/4 inches thick, not the 1 1/2 of a 2x6. The 6 inch long piece fits neatly in my trunk or saddlebag. I also rarely use it other than for.maintence issues. But I keep it with the bike so i.dont misplace it....lol
.
 
Last edited:
I have a 2' x 2' piece of plywood on the floor. I drive over it with the front tire and stop with the back tire on the plywood. Put the kickstand down, get off, push the bike vertical with the center stand making contact to get it level. Then grab the rear foot peg and lift while pushing down on the center stand. It comes up about 60% easier than it does without the plywood. Then I spin it around and its ready to go for the next ride.
 
I have a 2' x 2' piece of plywood on the floor. I drive over it with the front tire and stop with the back tire on the plywood. Put the kickstand down, get off, push the bike vertical with the center stand making contact to get it level. Then grab the rear foot peg and lift while pushing down on the center stand.
OK. I like this method. It's contingent upon my being able to do the final lift successfully, but, I will definitely give this a try. Thanks. :)
 
"I have a 2' x 2' piece of plywood on the floor. I drive over it with the front tire and stop with the back tire on the plywood."

I like this too. Just make sure you position the bike so the center stand feet are on front of the plywood. You can adjust the thickness of the plywood to suit.
 
"I have a 2' x 2' piece of plywood on the floor. I drive over it with the front tire and stop with the back tire on the plywood."

I like this too. Just make sure you position the bike so the center stand feet are on front of the plywood. You can adjust the thickness of the plywood to suit.
....and that if u ride up onto it,ur not going too fast or hit the front brake while the front wheel is on the plywood. Quite the pucker factor almost like sliding on ice!!
 
I'll add one. Not plywood but a 1/4" sheet of hardboard I set on the floor of the shed to flatten it out. Backing out just as the rear wheel dropped off the slab of the shed and I normally hit the brake to let it drop slowly.The hardboard just slid. No drop but big pucker factor as I am on my tip toes at that point.
 
Have you got a story about that?😉
Nope, but I thought about doing the plywood thing (love the being able to then turn bike around part, especially for cheap). But I have a transitional ramp going from driveway to garage floor height that requires momentum to access (think of trailer ramps) without getting stuck in no man's land with no footing. And the thought of coming in a little too quick caused me to smile.

In my 2nd career, remodeling/renovations, I've done enough laminate floor surfing, not a fun adventure at 55+ years of age. Lmao.
 
....and that if u ride up onto it,ur not going too fast or hit the front brake while the front wheel is on the plywood. Quite the pucker factor almost like sliding on ice!!
I am very careful when driving into the garage now after the crash I had in the garage when my front brake failed. I must say thank you for reminding me not to use the front brake when driving over the plywood. I doubt that I have done that as of yet... and for sure... won't be doing it ever. One garage crash was enough for me.
 
Top