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Clutch Creep

coffee_brake

coffee_brake

Guest
Guest
What if the hydraulic clutch is allowing the bike to creep forward while in gear with the clutch lever pulled? No mushy feel at the lever at all, new clutch line, freshly rebuilt master and slave cylinders with parts from Murph's. The clutch feels firm enough that I don't think there's air in the system. 40k miles on this particular clutch. I've rebuild Connie clutch master and slave cylinders before with no problems. The rebuild and new line are because the problem was getting worse and worse, so it's been a gradual thing. Crud stuck in a clutch plate? Fresh fully synthetic oil change. I did a search...any ideas?
 
Jenn, the only things I can think of is if the spacer/spacing between the slave and the engine got greater and the clutch is not fully disengaging. The Clutch push rod that goes from the slave to the clutch has to go in one way, taper is different, I am not sure which end goes in first.
I bet you already replaced the star spring with the newer style one, if one of the star spring petals broke off and got caught up between a plate in the clutch pack?
 
I would suspect a slow leak around the piston seal in the master cylinder. I know you just rebuilt both ends of the circuit but..... it just sounds like that to me.

Does this creep start after the clutch lever has been pulled in for awhile or is it immediate?

Is the slave cylinder fully seated/tightened in place? (I know...rookie stuff for someone of your skills)
 
My clutch has a problem that when I let the lever out one eighth of an inch it will start to move.
It becomes hard to shift too. After riding a few miles it slowly returns to normal.
Not sure how to fix this problem. Seems someone has had this problem before but a search didn't
find that post.
 
Pretty sure the clutch rod goes in smaller end first.

How far does the lever move before you feel resistance from the clutch springs?

Is the clutch lever pivot point worn?
 
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