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Concours 14 clutch replacement questions

pdny1248

Guest
Guest
I have C-14 with 40K miles on it. I plan to replace the clutch and I wondering if anyone has any recommendations. On my bikes in the past generally I replace the fiber plates and the clutch springs with stock ones. I haven't taken it apart yet so I don't know if I need to replace the drive plates as well. I've seen the Barnett complete clutch plates and it seems like a great option but I tend to prefer OEM parts.
Any feedback on stock VS Barnett or any other clutch replacement thoughts would be welcomed.
 
My clutch is making a lot of noise during engagement (when it is slipping). I just ordered the Barnett kit, but have yet receive and install it. I happen to get the drive plates as well in the kit. If I were to go with stock parts I would still get all the plates. Due to the noise it is making a few bucks more is worth it to me to have the best chance that it will the will be resolved. YMMV, depending upon why you are replacing the clutch.

Here is a recent thread on this:
 
My clutch is making a lot of noise during engagement (when it is slipping). I just ordered the Barnett kit, but have yet receive and install it. I happen to get the drive plates as well in the kit. If I were to go with stock parts I would still get all the plates. Due to the noise it is making a few bucks more is worth it to me to have the best chance that it will the will be resolved. YMMV, depending upon why you are replacing the clutch.

Here is a recent thread on this:
You purchased their Carbon Fiber ZX14R complete kit, it's their version of a Drag race clutch ( Marketing) Cause they do not list their Kevlar as a Complete Kit for the Concours-14. My Opinion and experience with Barnett are there alright but believe it or not the OEM Friction disc is one of the best and as far as driving plates they can get hot and discolored but unless they're warped or Concave there fine. if you really want aftermarket then Trac King is truly one of the best
 
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My clutches isn't slipping yet or making noise however, the engagement point is about the last 16th of an inch on the clutch lever. Hopefully the noise in your clutch is not the clutch basket itself. My 79 Suzuki GS 1000 had clutch basket issues from the factory.

My past experiences tell me that the friction plates are either glazed or
warn or both. It could be that I'm a little hard on my clutches .

I just ordered the OEM friction plates, clutch springs and clutch a cover gasket from Partzilla. Approximately $220 to my door with taxes. I looked into the Barnett clutch plates and if you buy the whole kit it is definitely cheaper then the OEM. The price I saw for the Barnet was about 200 with the both the drive and friction plates and the springs (not including the gasket.) About $80 savings Over stock if you needed to get the driveplates from them as well .The OEM Parts might take close to two weeks to get here where I think the Barnett would have been quicker. I'm racing time and the weather here in New England as I would like to get it done before it gets cold so it's ready to go for the spring. Thanks for your feedback and sharing your clutch woes and remedies.
 
My clutches isn't slipping yet or making noise however, the engagement point is about the last 16th of an inch on the clutch lever. Hopefully the noise in your clutch is not the clutch basket itself. My 79 Suzuki GS 1000 had clutch basket issues from the factory.

My past experiences tell me that the friction plates are either glazed or
warn or both. It could be that I'm a little hard on my clutches .

I just ordered the OEM friction plates, clutch springs and clutch a cover gasket from Partzilla. Approximately $220 to my door with taxes. I looked into the Barnett clutch plates and if you buy the whole kit it is definitely cheaper then the OEM. The price I saw for the Barnet was about 200 with the both the drive and friction plates and the springs (not including the gasket.) About $80 savings Over stock if you needed to get the driveplates from them as well .The OEM Parts might take close to two weeks to get here where I think the Barnett would have been quicker. I'm racing time and the weather here in New England as I would like to get it done before it gets cold so it's ready to go for the spring. Thanks for your feedback and sharing your clutch woes and remedies.
I’m now, where you were…
“Engagement point is about the last 16th of an inch on the clutch lever”.
Was warn clutch plates confirm to be the issue? How is it now?
Thanks,
 
...and I wonder how many are hosing up the slipper clutch function when replacing the clutch plates. And how many of these jobs are done not because of worn clutches, but instead worn master cylinders?

Steve
Hi Steve, You are a huge bank of C14 knowledge and I appreciate your input. I want to purchase a clutch replacement kit with everything I need to BEST replace my clutch and associated wear parts. What are the products and manufacturers you would prefer to purchase?
Thanks,
Q
 
Hi Steve, You are a huge bank of C14 knowledge and I appreciate your input. I want to purchase a clutch replacement kit with everything I need to BEST replace my clutch and associated wear parts. What are the products and manufacturers you would prefer to purchase?
Thanks,
Q
If it were my bike, knowing what I know of the millions of miles done by Coggers and fellow c-14 owners with no clutch issues, I would use STOCK KAWASAKI parts. Before you take the deep dive with aftermarket parts, learn how the slipper function works and the importance of stack height. You can easily destroy the functionality of your clutch by swapping in parts that alter stack height. Trust me, you won't like your bike if you lose the slipper function. Beyond that, most folks who think they have clutch disc issues really have hydraulic actuation issues. Start there, at your master cylinder.

Here's a video I did on slipper clutches.

Steve

 
If it were my bike, knowing what I know of the millions of miles done by Coggers and fellow c-14 owners with no clutch issues, I would use STOCK KAWASAKI parts. Before you take the deep dive with aftermarket parts, learn how the slipper function works and the importance of stack height. You can easily destroy the functionality of your clutch by swapping in parts that alter stack height. Trust me, you won't like your bike if you lose the slipper function. Beyond that, most folks who think they have clutch disc issues really have hydraulic actuation issues. Start there, at your master cylinder.

Here's a video I did on slipper clutches.

Steve


Outstanding video Steve. And yes, I need a slipper going up and down a mountain daily on my C14 for work during the riding season (too cold right now).

One thing I have not considered with my clutch howling noise is the friction zone of my clutch as it relates to the handle pull.

I have no bumping or rumble as described in the video so I think the spider is ok. But I should look at the very least a bleed or possibly a rebuild of my clutch slave and master cylinders. My handle has quite a bit of travel and is almost to the bar before it fully disengages. My friction zone begins with very little release of the lever. On other bikes the friction zone is early in the travel with all things are working up to spec.

Your thoughts?
 
** Following **

My clutch behaves somewhat like Jon's, just without the howling. For my first few clutch pulls, when starting from cold, the clutch requires nearly a full pull of the lever to the handlebar before disengaging. Releasing the lever it catches right away, again, very close to the handlebar. There's very little play. It's all happening at or near "max grab". Maybe I'm needing a bleeding?

At 12,500 miles on this '21 model I'd still be surprised if I needed the flush and fill already, especially since I am upshifting clutchless from 2nd through OD almost always. But, as always, I'm open to hearing from those who know these things.

Thx, AB
 
** Following **

My clutch behaves somewhat like Jon's, just without the howling. For my first few clutch pulls, when starting from cold, the clutch requires nearly a full pull of the lever to the handlebar before disengaging. Releasing the lever it catches right away, again, very close to the handlebar. There's very little play. It's all happening at or near "max grab". Maybe I'm needing a bleeding?

At 12,500 miles on this '21 model I'd still be surprised if I needed the flush and fill already, especially since I am upshifting clutchless from 2nd through OD almost always. But, as always, I'm open to hearing from those who know these things.

Thx, AB

And I do go up and down a mountain daily on my bike. Lots of engine braking and plenty of clutch slipping on the switchbacks and up hill starts.

But based on what everyone has said, I do not think my clutch is worn as much as unhappy. It seems to work fine with no detectable slipping once engaged. But it complains LOUDLY once I start to place a load on it until it is fully engaged - then its silent as a mouse. My truck hard breaking comparison really sums up the sound I hear.

But I still have not had a chance to record the sound. Right at the end of the riding season I saw the trace of a cord showing on the cornering sides of my rear ContiMotion and I promptly parked her a couple weeks before it got too cold to ride daily. Once the new RoadSmart 3's go on, I'll try to capture the sound.
 
Sorry for the long & late response time. I didn't get around to replacing the clutch plate until just a few weeks ago. I used the OEM friction plates and I replaced the clutch springs with OEM ones as well. The drive plates were fine, albiet some light discoloration. I checked them on a flat service to make sure they weren't warped. The friction plates were slightly visibly worn in comparison to the new ones but nothing excesive. l didn't measure them but just replaced them.

After reading Steve's post about the master cylinder wear I was concerned that could be an issue. I flushed out the master cylinder, replaced the fluid and bled it.

The job was a success! Clutch action has been restored. I believe the new springs played a key roll, in addition to the new friction plates. Clutch engagement starts about half way through the lever relase instead of the last 16th of an inch.

Make sure if you order the OEM friction plates that there are 3 different part #'s 7 of 1#. 2 other #'s, 1 each, 9 in total.
I hope this helps!
Thanks,
Peter
 
I have 85k miles on my bike with the factory clutch still working perfectly, I use Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle oil which I think helps. I've thought that maybe a clutch replacement might be one of those "good idea" preventative maintenance items to do but I also figure that the combination of bike weight, horse power & torque on this bike that the clutch is probably pretty robust. Until it shows me signs that a replacement is in order I'll just keep going.

PG.
 
I have 85k miles on my bike with the factory clutch still working perfectly, I use Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle oil which I think helps. I've thought that maybe a clutch replacement might be one of those "good idea" preventative maintenance items to do but I also figure that the combination of bike weight, horse power & torque on this bike that the clutch is probably pretty robust. Until it shows me signs that a replacement is in order I'll just keep going.

PG.
I don't know what was in my '08 prior to me acquiring it w/ 6K on the odo but my first change was done with Amsoil. It's used that ever since. My '12 had dino until 3K for break-in purposes (2 changes total) then went to Amsoil. Definitely makes for good shifting and the clutches work the way they should.
 
dang hope this helps someone , put my 08 back together and the slipper function seemed engaged. so very grateful i installed a speed bleeder from murphs when i was rebuilding the slave cylynder on the otherside. i let out a little pressure and viola ...slipper slipped back into place .now engaging ( gotta go find my winter chaps and really test it !)
 
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