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Delkevic Header Info

Jeff.C

Member
Member
Hey guys, Having my bike torn down to perform valve maintenance, snowballed into the cam chain, and now pulled the head to try a thinner head gasket to bump the compression up. Been looking at headers and the pictures of Delkevic's copy of the ZX14R show the pipe reducer that joins your mid-pipe going into the outlet as being an ID and then they show a clamp that you would use over what appears to be relief cuts in the outlet. Is this a preproduction picture that maybe marketing rushed or is this how the product is? Sent an email about a week ago but never heard back
 
Here is the full system for the Concours.
The header may be slightly different than the header for the ZX.
Delkevic does sell the header only for the Connie.

The image of the pieces shows that the adapter is built to fit inside of the collector.
(I agree, that seems strange)

On your thinner head gasket, are you aware that the thinner gasket is also changing your valve timing?
(slightly retarding the timing)
 
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Yes, that gives it a budget-built feel with some minor flow or chance for leakage so scrap that header, Already inquired on the Area P but for my taste, it's more of a Sport Bike sound and this being more of a touring bike your kind of locked into using their Muffler unless you want to fab mid-pipe and use the Akrapovic and there scarce now cause the Concourse 14 is a dinosaur and just about all the better slip on are out of production but never the less Kerry builds a very high-quality system for a really good price.

It is really a very slight retard when researching and calculating it and just throwing this formula out there cause the ZG 1400 formula is at home on cardboard so let's say our cam sprocket is around 27.5mm radius, which means the circumference would be 172.788mm. There are 360 degrees in a circle, so 172.788mm / 360 deg would be .47996, which means every deg on the cam sprocket is around .47996mm. Since crankshaft turns twice as fast, that means that 2deg would equal .47996mm or each crank degree would be .23998mm. So by going from a .65mm to .45mm head gasket would retard intake and exhaust cam by .8334 deg. So roughly each .1mm lost from the head would equal to .4167 of a degree retard to each camshaft so really doubt I will notice any low-end performance loss since bumping the compression should make up for it and since it's retarded it should move the power band up higher but again doubt I would be able to see it on our Dyno, Hey won't be the first or last bike I used or made adjustable sprockets if needed and it might blow up and that's the spirit of Hot Rodding
 
Yes,
Hey guys, Having my bike torn down to perform valve maintenance, snowballed into the cam chain, and now pulled the head to try a thinner head gasket to bump the compression up. Been looking at headers and the pictures of Delkevic's copy of the ZX14R show the pipe reducer that joins your mid-pipe going into the outlet as being an ID and then they show a clamp that you would use over what appears to be relief cuts in the outlet. Is this a preproduction picture that maybe marketing rushed or is this how the product is? Sent an email about a week ago but never heard back
That's how it is but the header exit is large, and needs to be necked down anyway. and at about 350.00 for the header, yes, it's a cheap knock off and loses low end power below about 5500 rpm.
Since you're hotrodding, consider the zx14 exhaust cam. it has 15* more duration and as I recall about another .5 mm lift. You're going to need to do a flash no matter, and I expect it's going to be a one - off, so why not used the bigger EX cam and get more power?
Steve
 
I agree, he does build a quality header.

Not sure what your looking for, but another option is the Black Widow headers.
Their also budget headers, but have the same cylinder pairing as a Connie. (1/4 and 2/3)

I'm unsure of what pairing Kerry uses, but the Delkevic uses ZX-14R pairing. (1/2 and 3/4)

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Yes,

That's how it is but the header exit is large, and needs to be necked down anyway. and at about 350.00 for the header, yes, it's a cheap knock off and loses low end power below about 5500 rpm.
Since you're hotrodding, consider the zx14 exhaust cam. it has 15* more duration and as I recall about another .5 mm lift. You're going to need to do a flash no matter, and I expect it's going to be a one - off, so why not used the bigger EX cam and get more power?
Steve
Considered it Steve especially if I can get the Head pipe size efficient enough to handle the extra exhaust duration, has me thinking how much it will push the power band up the RPM scale but if I don't like it could always revert back to the ZG Cam and a different tune. Tune wise would you suggest your Hammer and then just tweak it from there?
 
I agree, he does build a quality header.

Not sure what your looking for, but another option is the Black Widow headers.
Their also budget headers, but have the same cylinder pairing as a Connie. (1/4 and 2/3)

I'm unsure of what pairing Kerry uses, but the Delkevic uses ZX-14R pairing. (1/2 and 3/4)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Looking at the Black widow thought i saw it was paired like the ZG and it is for sure a Few steps above the Delkevic but now Steve gave me the Idea to try a ZX Exhaust cam so now thinking the primaries may not match the air ZX exhaust camshaft can move.

Also, it has to be Quiet so want to try the stock muffler, and yes it's rather large and heavy but ugly is subjective!
Kawasaki knew what they were doing with all that interior volume.
The Motor officer assumed it was him hole sawed one of the baffles and it sounds sort of raspy mellow but not a sewing machine. I really like your Dual set up ted it can move some air and not be super loud, But in my case, for now, going for the Sleeper effect is what we're after and I have a feeling and could be wrong but the stock muffler might be able to support maybe 155 rear wheel horsepower or more maybe Steve can chime in
 
stock muffler might be able to support maybe 155 rear wheel horsepower or more maybe Steve can chime in
Forgetaboutit. ain't gonna happen. It's choking about 3 hp off the stock bike. it's at it's design limit. If I were you I would consider a full factory zx14 system, 2006-2007. That bike stock was about 165hp or so.
 
Forgetaboutit. ain't gonna happen. It's choking about 3 hp off the stock bike. it's at it's design limit. If I were you I would consider a full factory zx14 system, 2006-2007. That bike stock was about 165hp or so.




Also, it has to be Quiet so want to try the stock muffler, and yes it's rather large and heavy but ugly is subjective!
Kawasaki knew what they were doing with all that interior volume.
Went back and re-read my post and realized why you responded with your answer! Should have been more clear and not rushed to get out of the office by 4 pm cause traffic is hell here so this was on me, Steve!!

The stock muffler steel casing once easily gutted there is enormous interior volume enough for packing material using steel mesh on a 2 1/2 core then packed with some FMF. It will look stock ( Sleeper Effect ) Will be lighter and relatively mellow in sound, Doing that and it's really not a lot of work done it often it should be able to support 155 HP and above.
 
Went back and re-read my post and realized why you responded with your answer! Should have been more clear and not rushed to get out of the office by 4 pm cause traffic is hell here so this was on me, Steve!!

The stock muffler steel casing once easily gutted there is enormous interior volume enough for packing material using steel mesh on a 2 1/2 core then packed with some FMF. It will look stock ( Sleeper Effect ) Will be lighter and relatively mellow in sound, Doing that and it's really not a lot of work done it often it should be able to support 155 HP and above.
Have you done that before? My experience inside of stock mufflers is that they have various tubes and sound chambers / deflectors. All welded up, and the outside housings are welded too. Take pics as you go.

I used to have your energy. Now, knowing what I know about the various headers, what works on this bike, etc, if I were going to want a quiet but more powerful concours, I'd install the zx14 ex cam, a stock zx14 exhaust, and a custom tune. That would tick all the boxes.

Steve
 
How much power/toque gains are expected with new headers/exhaust vs just a tuned ecu? And what do you lose, if anything? I look at some graphs and to me it seems the gains are all at the rev limit for the most part. Otherwise looking at pretty small gains at lower rpm from what I am seeing. I don't know so I am asking
 
Looking at the Black widow thought i saw it was paired like the ZG and it is for sure a Few steps above the Delkevic but now Steve gave me the Idea to try a ZX Exhaust cam so now thinking the primaries may not match the air ZX exhaust camshaft can move.
The 2007-2008 ZX header (head pipe) diameter is only slightly larger than the ZG head pipes
The Motor officer assumed it was him hole sawed one of the baffles and it sounds sort of raspy mellow but not a sewing machine.
Explain what you meant with this line; Did someone do a baffelectomy on a C-14?
I really like your Dual set up ted it can move some air and not be super loud,
I have a set of ZX-14 headers in front of the slip-on's. (Area P)
Their quite a bit louder than stock. {Particularly when their angry} But pretty mellow when cruising/etc.
If I were you I would consider a full factory zx14 system, 2006-2007. That bike stock was about 165hp or so.
If you opt to go this way, I have a set of the ZX-14 Mufflers you can have for shipping.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: If anybody wants these mufflers, let me know. If no one wants them, I'm gonna toss em'.
 
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How much power/toque gains are expected with new headers/exhaust vs just a tuned ecu? And what do you lose, if anything? I look at some graphs and to me it seems the gains are all at the rev limit for the most part. Otherwise looking at pretty small gains at lower rpm from what I am seeing. I don't know so I am asking
Someone can post the dyno plots, but I'd expect about 3 peak HP and mebbe 2-4 ft lbs of torque throughout the RPM range.

The Flash alone (even without a slip-on) will give you far more torque/power, and the improvement in rideability makes it worth every penny.

Ride safe, Ted
 
How much power/toque gains are expected with new headers/exhaust vs just a tuned ecu? And what do you lose, if anything? I look at some graphs and to me it seems the gains are all at the rev limit for the most part. Otherwise looking at pretty small gains at lower rpm from what I am seeing. I don't know so I am asking
I have a solution - skip the graphs that show a sizable gain and let’s link up. Get that machine through break-in then we can do some roll-ons various gears, RPMs, speeds, etc.

My machine has a Full AreaP Exhaust and associated ECU tuning.
 
Have you done that before? My experience inside of stock mufflers is that they have various tubes and sound chambers / deflectors. All welded up, and the outside housings are welded too. Take pics as you go.

I used to have your energy. Now, knowing what I know about the various headers, what works on this bike, etc, if I were going to want a quiet but more powerful concours, I'd install the zx14 ex cam, a stock zx14 exhaust, and a custom tune. That would tick all the boxes.

Steve
I have done it before steve, We do some street grudge racing here in the south and like the illusion of stock appearing mufflers. Yes in a stock muffler their design is called reactive noise reduction. And is done by forcing gasses through smaller diameter passages chambers with plates or perforated tubes causing the flow of the gasses to back up and form a type of air damper for sound. Pretty well-engineered in sound science but Extremely Restrictive.

The last few years the OEMs have been making one muffler case for global markets and just inserting the muffler into the can and I looked last night by pulling the dress up end caps off and seen the rolled edges and thought this one is gonna be easy no cutting at all, So hang on cause once I buy a good core off eBay I will load you up with pictures from start to finish and it might be a build of two different types the first being the most common Absorptive type mufflers that 99 percent of the mufflers that people pay up to 900 bucks for a slip-on and the reason I like that is I can change the flow by the type of core perforated or louvered and change the tone loose packing the sound absorbs and that being big can she will be QT or tight packing, in reality, is incorrect for the long run with durability but most people do it that way even after they ask you for your advice, then they read it on all the forums so it must be the right way! you end up scorching the packing and blowing it out real fast and then blame the packing or the muffler, Tighter is louder and practically a straight long pipe good for top-end.
The next one may be Laminar technology they actually work really well on the bikes we spray and this Connie could end up with a 30 dry shot! if it decided to do roll-on racing It's not going to be overnight I do have a day job creating diagnostic Diesel software and work at a bike shop part-time that runs an SBK private Suzuki team and drag race a Harley V-Rod or was once a V-Rod and the rest of the time me and my chihuahua do crazy shit like this.

So why a Connie, Well I wanted one for years and thought the engine is pretty tough and what better bike to go up against the Harley baggers, and for those thinking Harleys are slow, Really maybe you haven't raced a street ridden Bagger with a 160 hp Milwaukie Eight. So gonna be fun upping their game!

Hey the part " I used to have your energy "You're still the legend here Steve! your tuning abilities using data logging for real-world tuning is in fact the only way to get real honest results hard results and you are one of the few that tune that way so you got my respect! But there are many that want Dyno Charts and want to see the big number at a place they rarely ride big is better right!

agree with you on the ZX Camshaft and already purchased the cam and an APE adjustable gear so I can degree it instead of setting it straight up, The ZX exhaust duals for sure agree but right now it does not fit my narrative figure explaining why we need the stock can, for now, you would understand that's why the Delkevic had the look of a stock header but the outlet needs some work and not sure it will really hold up, so pretty much passing and probably will go with the ZX but rework the outlet for single and then maybe try the Akrapovic for the ZX14 R with duals
 
The 2007-2008 ZX header (head pipe) diameter is only slightly larger than the ZG head pipes

Explain what you meant with this line; Did someone do a baffelectomy on a C-14?

I have a set of ZX-14 headers in front of the slip-on's. (Area P)
Their quite a bit louder than stock. {Particularly when their angry} But pretty mellow when cruising/etc.

If you opt to go this way, I have a set of the ZX-14 Mufflers you can have for shipping.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: If anybody wants these mufflers, let me know. If no one wants them, I'm gonna toss em'.
I noticed it cause we had a Concours in the shop and at idle it was much quieter than mine so when I peeked up my muffler could see they cut a plate.

Would like the ZX 14 Mufflers cause I will use them when I use the Akrapovic for rides up into the Mountains its sad cause that is why i purchased this bike and swore to leave it alone but nothing i own is stock
 
I noticed it cause we had a Concours in the shop and at idle it was much quieter than mine so when I peeked up my muffler could see they cut a plate.

Would like the ZX 14 Mufflers cause I will use them when I use the Akrapovic for rides up into the Mountains its sad cause that is why i purchased this bike and swore to leave it alone but nothing i own is stock
 

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will go with the ZX but rework the outlet for single and then maybe try the Akrapovic for the ZX14 R with duals
I just bought an 06 zx header and was going to do just what you said. Then I realized that I don't know where to cut the collector, and that's an important dimension. Also don't know which size to make the outlet. Care to share your thoughts on that? I may pass that header on to somebody for the $100 I've got in it including shipping. It was the cream of the crop on ebay when I bought it.
 
Really maybe you haven't raced a street ridden Bagger with a 160 hp Milwaukie Eight. So gonna be fun upping their game!


agree with you on the ZX Camshaft and already purchased the cam and an APE adjustable gear so I can degree it instead of setting it straight up,

I raced a 117"CVO that had everything a N/A engine could have done. Huge money invested. It wasn't even close. He told me he was going to come back when he had his bike supercharged.

You'll make tuning gains when you use the VVT tuning to your advantage. It will compliment the extra duration / overlap from the zx14 EX cam.

Steve
 
This is the first one that I have ever heard of with drilled plates in a C-14 Muffler.
I asked in earlier posts if a baffelectomy had been done. No replies.

Years ago; I did dyno comparison tests on stock C-10 mufflers, vs stock C-10 mufflers w/baffelectomy, vs Cobra Slip On's.
The OEM's {with the Baffelectomy} did everything the Cobra's did and were not loud.
There was not a lot of HP improvement over stock, but the plot was a lot smoother/better torque curve.


By the way, these are 2008 ZX-14 mufflers, and (I think) have cats installed inside.
(If still interested, where are you located)?

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I just bought an 06 zx header and was going to do just what you said. Then I realized that I don't know where to cut the collector, and that's an important dimension. Also don't know which size to make the outlet. Care to share your thoughts on that? I may pass that header on to somebody for the $100 I've got in it including shipping. It was the cream of the crop on ebay when I bought it.

I don't get it. you already have an area p pipe. there's no other exhaust that will get the peak power than what you already have. Unless your intent is to spread the power? Have you considered just doing the reducer nozzle I worked up in your area P system? It will cost you like 5.00 and very little time. Not going to be a big deal if you don't like it.

Steve
 
This is the first one that I have ever heard of with drilled plates in a C-14 Muffler.
I asked in earlier posts if a baffelectomy had been done. No replies.

Years ago; I did dyno comparison tests on stock C-10 mufflers, vs stock C-10 mufflers w/baffelectomy, vs Cobra Slip On's.
The OEM's {with the Baffelectomy} did everything the Cobra's did and were not loud.
There was not a lot of HP improvement over stock, but the plot was a lot smoother/better torque curve.


By the way, these are 2008 ZX-14 mufflers, and (I think) have cats installed inside.
(If still interested, where are you located)?

Ride safe, Ted
Ted, Pretty positive doing a baffectomy and if that's the word for removing a baffle would be fruitless in the C14 muffler there are too many chambers in a Reactive style muffler. Really all I think you might get is a slight flow increase bypassing a chamber and if anything some noise. I Will say it sounds like an Arrow muffler with the DB killer installed mellow and no hi-way drone.

Did dyno the bike the first week I had it, Don't have charts with me when but viewing them it was in line with a stock ZG1400, and since we use a Factory Pro EC 997 with High-speed EGA. factory pro Numbers are different than other manufactures.

Really can't see Early OEM Connie C-10 mufflers being really restrictive once you core them assuming they were like the early ZX 11 Mufflers on the inside, 2 1/8 inlet then there was a baffle in front of a two 1/8 core center that redirected it through a couple of one-inch tubes that pushed it to a second chamber back to the 2 1/8 outlet stuffed with a smaller perforated core that you can cut out, Might not be accurate its been 30 years.

Could see the Cobras upsetting flow they were sort of a Cherry Bomb louvered core glass pack with an aluminum case around but they made a noise. If i go back to the mid to late eighties when Yamaha had a hit with their Marketing department convincing everyone the V max made 140 horsepower and around the time K&N and Cobra use to run ads in cycle world showing red and green lines with no numbers but talking about increased HP. it just my 10 cents

Cats are fine with me Motorcycles use high flow style if I leave them in it will be strictly for street riding after were done and tune it down. Could be wrong and come to learn from others as well but can't see the black widow using it as an example is close to the Stock ZG 14 Header making any more peak than the BW without Cats.

Live in S.C. 29072 and Thank you for the Offer Ted!
 
The C-10 Baffelectomy involved putting a hole in 1 plate. {Steve invented the C-10 baffelectomy)
To do mine;
I used a 1" hole saw {with extension}, put it in thru the exhaust port of the muffler's, & drilled a hole thru the plate.
Sound increased very slightly.
{Most people don't notice the difference at all, and have to listen closely to hear the difference}

The improvement wasn't big, but definitely there..
(I'm going to post the old note with numbers)

The hole you show in the C-14 photo, appears to be a small hole (3/8" to 1/2") in 1 area of the plate.
I just looked at my OEM Muffler.
The plate appears to have multiple chambers.
(I can see a weld and think that the hole in your photo is on side of that weld)
The plate in a C-10 has no weld across the plate.
(No weld, allows for the bigger hole)

I'm noting it as it indicates that the C-14 muffler is constructed differently that the C-10 muffler.

NOTE: I got the second ZX muffler out of the attic and found a box.
I'll need to add some extension to that box, to ship.
But it's do-able and I'll keep it as small as possible.
PM me your address.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Old note;
Muffler Comparison on Dyno (Dynojett-150)

I sent this to the 4 into 1 (Ontario) Pipe discussion.
Steve saw it and suggested I start a new Forum so that people (that are considering a Baffelectomy) could see it.
I ran 3 sets of mufflers on my dyno on Friday.
Stock, Stock with Baffelectomy, Cobra F1s

NOTE: My computer guy wasn't there to help with the computer part of running the dyno so my numbers are not exact.
(I had to read the plots and "guestimate" the values for this list).
So, my numbers are not exact, but they are pretty close.

Stock Mufflers
RPM HP Torque
2000 14 35
3000 30 52
4000 43 57
5000 52 56
6000 70 61
7000 83 63
8000 90 59
9000 92 53

Stock Mufflers with Baffelectomy
RPM HP Torque
2000 14 38
3000 32 55
4000 44 57
5000 56 58
6000 74 64
7000 86 64
8000 93 61
9000 94.5 55

Cobra F1s Mufflers
RPM HP Torque
2000 15 40
3000 32 56
4000 44 58
5000 56 60
6000 74 65
7000 86 64
8000 93 62
9000 95 57

Peak torque; in all cases was at about 6500 rpm.
Stock 63, baffelectomy 64, Cobra's 65

Peak HP; in all cases was at about 8500 rpm.
Stock 92, Baffelectomy 94.5, Cobra's 95

The numbers don't quite tell the tale here either.
The plot for with the Cobra pipes was smoother (more consistent) than the others.
The surprise was how much change the baffelectomy showed.
The Baffelectomy numbers are very close to the Cobra numbers, and modifying the mufflers costs a heck of a lot less than buying Cobra's etc...
Looks like Steve did it again...
I are impressed!!
(Don't tell him I said that)


If someone can do it (??); Could someone please plot these and do a post of that plot.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Someone can post the dyno plots, but I'd expect about 3 peak HP and mebbe 2-4 ft lbs of torque throughout the RPM range.

The Flash alone (even without a slip-on) will give you far more torque/power, and the improvement in rideability makes it worth every penny.

Ride safe, Ted
Seems like a lot of money and effort for such small gains though. I feel like if you can get 20HP and 15TQ it would be potentially worth it.

I have a solution - skip the graphs that show a sizable gain and let’s link up. Get that machine through break-in then we can do some roll-ons various gears, RPMs, speeds, etc.

My machine has a Full AreaP Exhaust and associated ECU tuning.
I am looking forward to that and at the same time scared :)

part of me here is trying to convince myself not to swap out my headers/exhaust. I am really enjoying the lower decibels of this bike and its performance at such decibels. I get worried ill dump a ton of money on squeezing out ever last bit of power and then be unsatisfied with the noise level. I love the sound of engines, just not non-stop while im riding.
 
Briev, I misunderstood your question. I thought you were asking about gain from a Slip-on only.
The slip-on can give the Torque/HP I noted.

You will have to look at Dyno Plots to get more exact numbers, but;
Headers & slip-on will give you more than just the slip-on.
To get what your seeking, you must also add the flash.
Adding all 3 will probably give you the HP/Torque your seeking. (possibly a tad more)
Realize that your asking for a 15%- 20% Power increase from an engine that's already pretty powerful.

NOTE: The parts do not produce HP/Torque.
They only make the engine more efficient. (so that it can make the numbers)

Overall; a Flash alone "will" give you the most bang for your buck. (approx. 50% - 60% of what your asking for)
Additionally, it will improve the rideability.

As far as sound/loud... (Making a choice because of sound tracks on You Tube are a waste of time).
Go to a COG event and hear other bikes with slip-on's.
Use that info to make your choice.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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this is a good read
 
I just bought an 06 zx header and was going to do just what you said. Then I realized that I don't know where to cut the collector, and that's an important dimension. Also don't know which size to make the outlet. Care to share your thoughts on that? I may pass that header on to somebody for the $100 I've got in it including shipping. It was the cream of the crop on ebay when I bought it.
Not sure myself yet, Really would have to have one in front of me to even see if modifying an OEM header will have any results since its sort of a one size fits all, But the theory goes something like your perfect collector length varies depending on the target engine use and how many modifications are already done.

Long collectors are easier to tune and give you a broad tuning range with mostly middle-range torque, robbing some top-end power. Top-end power is usually shorter collectors, the downside of not getting it right somewhere in midrange rpm is you can cause reflected waves to actually decrease power by arriving out of phase and have played with that trying to figure out if I could tune it out with needle shape and contours in the old days but never was not successful.

Going to build the OEM Muffler project and see what it does and then do to Ted's generosity of Mufflers and him having good results with duals along with Steve advice on going dual for the power I seek, going to move on and try the Akrapovic header for the ZX14R it has an interesting collecter using sort of an X pipe! Honestly think the hardest part is scoring a Muzzy hanger or having someone welding aluminum to build the Concours bracket to support duals or modify a ZX 14 bracket to support a bag
1637245419067.png
 
Here is a ZX-14 Header like Laker mentioned. (I have one on my bike)

Some things of interest;
1) Cylinder pairing is the same as a C-`14.
2) The ZX Head pipes (1 1/2") {38 mm} are only slightly larger than C-14 heap pipes (1 3/8") {35 mm}.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Delkevic and ZX-14R Head pipes are (1 11/16") {43 mm}
3) The crossover tubes are functional. (ZX-14R crossovers are not)
4) Long collector.
5) Collector is separated into 2 separate section's by a plate that is welded down the center. (Makes layout similar to Tri Y header)
6) Ball chamber at the end of the collector, allows the gasses to expand prior to passing thru the exhaust ports, and "may" be reflecting the pulses.
7) No cat.
8) Would work perfectly with stock ZX mufflers.

If I were to change the OEM ZX-14 Header to a 4 into 1.
I would;
Leave the ball at the end of the collector. Remove/blank off the left exhaust port. Replace the right 2" OD Port with an identical length 2 1/4" OD port, and I'd place that port in approx. the same location as the original port.
ie; I'd alter the port location just enough to make it line up with the Mid pipe that is used.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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If I were going to do any of this with intent and authority, i'd have a dyno and do everything in stages, dyno'ing as I go. Not that I think the dyno is the ultimate tuning tool, but it separates subjective SOP impressions from actual defined data.

Here's a good example of SOP (seat of the pants) failure. A stock c-14 is very restricted below 5000 rpm. It then comes on strong through the upper midrange. With tuning, that power below 5000 rpm is filled in and the torque becomes very linear as seen on a dyno chart. But most people will think the bike has LESS total power, because they didn't get that "coming on the cam" feeling at 5000rpm anymore. The fact is there is more power under the curve with the tune but alot of riders don't figure that out.

Steve
 
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A series of Roll-on comparison's is also a good way to evaluate changes, but I agree.

Can I spend a few days at your house? <sly grin>
I have headers/reducers, (plus you have some we could try, and you have my dyno).
PS: I can grill a mean steak and will bring some..

Ride safe, Ted
 
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A series of Roll-on comparison's is also a good way to evaluate changes, but I agree.

Can I spend a few days at your house? <sly grin>
I have headers/reducers, (plus you have some we could try, and you have my dyno).
PS: I can grill a mean steak and will bring some..

Ride safe, Ted
Yes, you can, and you're welcome anytime. Hopefully Harry will send me some of those pills he has, and everything will be just fine! ;)
;)
Steve
 
For the discusison;
Came across these Brock headers today while looking at headers/Ebay.
Their basically ZX-14R design in head pipe size/cylinder pairing, but were on a 2008 ZX-14.
Have big head pipes, collector, mid pipe.

Ride safe, Ted


Also found Muzzy's
 
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