Anyone have advice on whether or not to increase cc's when I do my connecting rod repair? I have a badly bent rod and will soon be replacing it, so I am thinking of making my 1000 into something larger. I have access to machinery capable of boring the cylinders if that's an option. I will also be sending the carbs out for rebuild anyway, so I will need re-jetting also. Opinions?
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Engine upgrade?
- Thread starter dclifford652047
- Start date
The most common displacement upgrade is the 1052.
There are 2 ways of doing it.
1 method is to use stock rods, use oversized pistons, and deck the cylinder.
The other is to change rods and pistons, and not change the deck height.
NOTE: Changing the deck height requires a cam timing change.
Since your going to change a rod anyway I suggest the latter.
It requires a specific Rod and Piston from other Kawasaki's.
Sorry, I don't recall the combination right now. (might be a ZX-10 Rod and a ZZR Piston ?)
Someone can give us that info...
The rod is longer than stock and lighter.
The piston is about .080" Oversized, shorter/lighter and has a different wrist pin location.
The combination of the rod and piston raise the top of the piston slightly in the cylinder.
That changes the compression because of the larger piston and the new piston height.
Ride safe, Ted
PS:
If your interested, I have the rods, pistons, rings. (as I planned to do this year sago and never got around to it)
Everything has been carefully balanced.
No idea what the $$ value is...
There are 2 ways of doing it.
1 method is to use stock rods, use oversized pistons, and deck the cylinder.
The other is to change rods and pistons, and not change the deck height.
NOTE: Changing the deck height requires a cam timing change.
Since your going to change a rod anyway I suggest the latter.
It requires a specific Rod and Piston from other Kawasaki's.
Sorry, I don't recall the combination right now. (might be a ZX-10 Rod and a ZZR Piston ?)
Someone can give us that info...
The rod is longer than stock and lighter.
The piston is about .080" Oversized, shorter/lighter and has a different wrist pin location.
The combination of the rod and piston raise the top of the piston slightly in the cylinder.
That changes the compression because of the larger piston and the new piston height.
Ride safe, Ted
PS:
If your interested, I have the rods, pistons, rings. (as I planned to do this year sago and never got around to it)
Everything has been carefully balanced.
No idea what the $$ value is...
Last edited:
Thanks Ted,
I have often wondered if there was the option of using ZX parts in the ZG since they are so closely related. I am sure that a properly running ZG engine would provide all the power I need, but... what can I say... I don't have any other toys, and it sounds like fun. Not having to re-jet or change the cam timing is a plus.
I am interested in the parts assuming I don't need an entire engine. Perhaps we can discuss that aspect after I disassemble the bottom end and find out what the damage is other than the rod. I do not think I bent the crank (does this normally happen in a hydro-lock?).
Riding season is drawing to close here in Northern New England and re-building season is just getting started. Time to get to work.
I have often wondered if there was the option of using ZX parts in the ZG since they are so closely related. I am sure that a properly running ZG engine would provide all the power I need, but... what can I say... I don't have any other toys, and it sounds like fun. Not having to re-jet or change the cam timing is a plus.
I am interested in the parts assuming I don't need an entire engine. Perhaps we can discuss that aspect after I disassemble the bottom end and find out what the damage is other than the rod. I do not think I bent the crank (does this normally happen in a hydro-lock?).
Riding season is drawing to close here in Northern New England and re-building season is just getting started. Time to get to work.
I've never heard of anyone bending a crank in a hydrolock.
But have heard of scored cylinders or scored rod.
I went back to my notes and checked.
You'll need ZX-10B Rods and ZRX-1100 pistons.
Cylinders will be bored .080" and you want about 0.002 - 0.003 piston clearance.
Head gasket ID will have to be enlarged to work with the big bore.
Everything else is basically a bolt in.
Rod bearings "will" require checking for proper clearances..
With stock carbs, cams, exhaust, HP will increase from about 89 to about 93/94, but the biggest gain is in low/mid range torque.
Ride safe, Ted
Did some Ebay looking. Saw this.. Seems like a heck of a deal..
ZX-10b Rods
Also found this; ZRX-1100 Piston's
But have heard of scored cylinders or scored rod.
I went back to my notes and checked.
You'll need ZX-10B Rods and ZRX-1100 pistons.
Cylinders will be bored .080" and you want about 0.002 - 0.003 piston clearance.
Head gasket ID will have to be enlarged to work with the big bore.
Everything else is basically a bolt in.
Rod bearings "will" require checking for proper clearances..
With stock carbs, cams, exhaust, HP will increase from about 89 to about 93/94, but the biggest gain is in low/mid range torque.
Ride safe, Ted
Did some Ebay looking. Saw this.. Seems like a heck of a deal..
ZX-10b Rods
89 Kawasaki ZX10 ZX1000 Ninja PISTONS AND CRANK RODS | eBay
Removed From: 1989 KAWASAKI ZX1000 26,209 Miles Vin JKAZXCB12KA019263.
www.ebay.com
Also found this; ZRX-1100 Piston's
99-00 KAWASAKI ZRX1100 ZR1100C3 ENGINE MOTOR BLOCK PISTONS piston set rods | eBay
Removed From: 1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100 ZR1100C3 with low miles. This piston set is in very good condition and shows normal signs of wear.
www.ebay.com
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Now that you have an idea what they are going for, do you care to sell your parts? or should I just go with the e-bay post?
PM sent.
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted