• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Final drive oil cap tool?

KretonsLC

KretonsLC

Guest
Guest
My final drive oil cap is on too tight for the vise grips & quarter or washer "tool" I see many have tried, and I really don't have a way to fabricate something. 

And get this - the Kawasaki Special Tool - Driver-Filler Cap: 57001–1454 costs $140!!

Any suggestions where I could get a driver to get the thing out?
 
I have used one of those round spark gap tools you usually see by the cash registers in auto parts stores, held by vise grips,until I bought a different style cap.
 
FTB530 said:
I have used one of those round spark gap tools you usually see by the cash registers in auto parts stores, held by vise grips,until I bought a different style cap.
Click to expand...

Thanks - tried that too as well as several bicycle tools, but no luck.  I've ordered this drag link socket - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FCP4DO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so hopefully it'll fit and work.
 
Wow, must be really tight. First time I took the cap off the final drive of my 09, I wreaked a couple of quarters with a vice grip pliers. But it finally submitted. Today I just use a quarter and turn it off because I don't "Gorilla" tighten it.
 
Update - I checked the blade width of the 15/16" drag socket and it may be a tad too thick, so I also ordered a 3/4" drag socket which has a blade width just slightly greater than a quarter.  So I'm sure the 3/4" will fit the slot, but I'm hoping the 15/16" will fit even better to get as much purchase as possible.
 
I stuck the end of a short pry bar in there then grabbed the square part of the bar a
with a adj wrench. It was tight! I replaced the factory cap with a engine oil cap. Same threads, diameter etc. 
 
I replaced mine with the KLR engine oil filler cap that I purchased from Partzilla along with some other parts. In fact, the engine oil cap was way less buying a KLR one (which screws in just fine) compared to the C14 cap! They are all the same. Thats assuming you can get your OEM off and want to replace with and easier one to use?

Part # 16115 There is an O-ring too, but the one on the OEM cap works. $3.15  :beerchug:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/2009/klr650-kl650e9f/engine-cover-s

 
Spray some WD40 on the cap, hopefully it will penetrate the threads and make it easier to unscrew.
 
I had to use large flat blade screwdriver with a square shaft the first time. Blade in the cap slot, push down firmly on the screwdriver handle while turning the shaft with an adjustable wrench.
 
gsun said:
Why don't you try a bit of heat on the case?
Click to expand...

:great: :great: :great: :great:
Agree... wife's hairdryer on high, and heat the case area "around" the plug..not the "plug" itself....works, even better is a heat gun, but just be careful, and prudent....

I made a tool out of 5/8" all thread, and big washer, with added washers and nuts each side of the "modified big one" to lock it all together, recreating kinda what is similar to the factory tool...  it works like a charm, and didn't cost me anything other than digging thru my "junk"... I collect Junk... my bad.  :rotflmao: :great:

 
So both drag sockets arrived this afternoon, and as I suspected, the 15/16" one was just a tad too thick for the slot.  However, the 3/4" one fit fine without too much slop, which was a good thing because the cap was torqued to 22 ft. lbs. - 4 times the recommended amount!  Got it out, changed the oil, and all is well.

Thanks to all for the suggestions.  Given how over-torqued the cap was though, I really think it needed the drag socket to fill most of the slot and let me put the leverage of the big 1/2" wrench to it.
 
Didn't know what a drag socket was so looked it up. Good call on that one. But, how do you know it was torqued to 22 lbs?
 
I'm guessing he used a torque wrench on the drag socket for removal. Torque value on the removal doesn't necessarily mean that was the applied force when it was installed.
 
The oil filler cap is the same thread as the final drive cap. Get another one of those .
 
Bob_C_CT said:
I'm guessing he used a torque wrench on the drag socket for removal. Torque value on the removal doesn't necessarily mean that was the applied force when it was installed.
Click to expand...

Correct - when I saw your reply I wasn't aware of the tightening/loosening torque disparity, but here's an article that explains it.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/a19597923/why-it-takes-less-torque-to-loosen-a-bolt-than-to-tighten-it/

According to the article, 10% less  torque is required to loosen, which suggests the cap was actually tightened to about 25 ft. lbs.

Anyway, I tightened the cap to the correct value and since I like the look of it I'll just keep using it since the drag socket makes it easy to remove.
 
The makeshift tool i was using for the Final Drive Oil Filler Cap "disappeared" since my last drain, and I had to scramble to find a replacement.
As much as I want to buy a proper Drag Socket, I just didn't feel like spending the $15 to use it once a year, and for so little torque.

As mentioned in another thread, I had a few large Diameter SS Washers that actually worked with a set of regular pliers.

But I also got to thinking, what ELSE I had laying around that might work......

Low and behold: Captive Center Hub Wrench off my 7 1/4" Craftsman Circular saw. :cool::ROFLMAO:

I'd add the picture, but apparently I have to have a hosting site now. :cautious:

Thought it was worth mentioning, in case somebody else needs a tool in a pinch.
gr
 
If i remember correctly project d had tamper proof caps that fit both oil and rear dif locations. Pre drilled for safety wiring and come in an assortment of finishes...
 

Attachments

  • 16125788532147326515355218737370.jpg
    16125788532147326515355218737370.jpg
    87.3 KB · Views: 332
KretonsLC said:
My final drive oil cap is on too tight for the vise grips & quarter or washer "tool" I see many have tried, and I really don't have a way to fabricate something.

And get this - the Kawasaki Special Tool - Driver-Filler Cap: 57001–1454 costs $140!!

Any suggestions where I could get a driver to get the thing out?
Click to expand...

Sometimes you just have to be creative. I looked around my various toolkits to see what would be stiff enough, the right shape more or less, and give me sufficient leverage.

Here is what I found I had laying around that worked like a charm…
 

Attachments

  • A355D3FA-9883-4BBF-9096-ADA883571C25.jpeg
    A355D3FA-9883-4BBF-9096-ADA883571C25.jpeg
    114.1 KB · Views: 196
  • 38E6CE9F-FE37-4B40-84F3-C20314B0A613.jpeg
    38E6CE9F-FE37-4B40-84F3-C20314B0A613.jpeg
    129.1 KB · Views: 234
  • 25EA4240-2E09-4E6A-967B-DCEB88847AC6.jpeg
    25EA4240-2E09-4E6A-967B-DCEB88847AC6.jpeg
    138.8 KB · Views: 251
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top