Front dampening maxes to soon

[kzz1king]

My turn to post a problem . So I'm setting The dampening on the front and my adjustments only goes 6 turns instead of 11. It definitely feels like it locks at both ends so I haven't forced anything. I did have my Forks apart for seals this winter so I don't know if I goofed something up there or not. Haven't been able to ride yet to try anything out still too much snow. What's the consensus? Thank you

 

[rlievenski4555]

My best guess is that the distance between the bottom end of the top fork plug and the rebound damping adjuster may not have been set to 13mm before reassembly of the forks. The specification is shown in section 13-14 of the service manual.

 

[rlievenski4555]

My best guess is that the distance between the bottom end of the top fork plug and the rebound damping adjuster may not have been set to 13mm before reassembly of the forks. The specification is shown in section 13-14 of the service manual.

Would need to disassemble the front end, remove the fork tubes, use the proper tools to compress springs, remove the top plug, and check/adjust. Once all back together, should have the full range of adjustment if it is the issue.

 

[kzz1king]

Would need to disassemble the front end, remove the fork tubes, use the proper tools to compress springs, remove the top plug, and check/adjust. Once all back together, should have the full range of adjustment if it is the issue.

I am pretty sure thats the problem. The book days 12 or more. This is how far out I left mine. It probably doesnt take much to be off .thanks

 

[laker9142]

You're basically just starting in the middle of the adjustment range. If it's not too stiff for you then don't worry about it. You may very well stiffen the rebound more than where you're at. Stock forks are rebound adjustable only.

 

[kzz1king]

You're basically just starting in the middle of the adjustment range. If it's not too stiff for you then don't worry about it. You may very well stiffen the rebound more than where you're at. Stock forks are rebound adjustable only.

They seem to rebound a little slow. At any rate I have them pulled so may as well take care of it.

 

[kzz1king]

My best guess is that the distance between the bottom end of the top fork plug and the rebound damping adjuster may not have been set to 13mm before reassembly of the forks. The specification is shown in section 13-14 of the service manual.

My best guess is that the distance between the bottom end of the top fork plug and the rebound damping adjuster may not have been set to 13mm before reassembly of the forks. The specification is shown in section 13-14 of the service manual.

I dont know how I missed the part C measurement. Its altogether again though so I hope I got it right. What I did was turn the adjuster to get maximum depth (I think it was about 16 )then set lock nut at 12 mm. I am thinking I may be missing out on hard end of adjustment by having a larger measurement at C. The adjuster now goes 12 full clicks so that should be correct with the first click being zero. Will just have to see when I can ride. If not third times a charm.

Thank you.

 

[rlievenski4555]

I dont know how I missed the part C measurement. Its altogether again though so I hope I got it right. What I did was turn the adjuster to get maximum depth (I think it was about 16 )then set lock nut at 12 mm. I am thinking I may be missing out on hard end of adjustment by having a larger measurement at C. The adjuster now goes 12 full clicks so that should be correct with the first click being zero. Will just have to see when I can ride. If not third times a charm.

Thank you.

Good luck! I replaced seals last summer. Took a while to get the hang of it. Will likely change fluid again this summer.

 

[kzz1king]

Good luck! I replaced seals last summer. Took a while to get the hang of it. Will likely change fluid again this summer.

I have it all figured out now! I thought seals were pretty easy. If I knew what I know now about the dampening adjustment it would have been easier. I am going to run it and see. I switched from 5wt to 7. The guy that resprung and revalved my forks thought it might be to heavy. If you do the forks at a tire change its not much extra work. Good luck to you and thanks for pointing out some things.

 

[2andblue]

If you do the forks at a tire change its not much extra work.

Couple tire, brake change and radiator fin cleaning with the fork rebuild and makes for a productive use of time!

Wayne, Carol & Blue

 

[kzz1king]

Couple tire, brake change and radiator fin cleaning with the fork rebuild and makes for a productive use of time!

Wayne, Carol & Blue

IF you dont screw up and have to pull the forks again

 

[2andblue]

IF you dont screw up and have to pull the forks again

Haha lol - I wasn’t going there…

If any motorcycle enthusiast says they haven’t had to take something apart a second time either one of two things is true:

1. They haven’t done enough wrenching… yet
2. They haven’t caught their mistake… yet

The point is - either way their day is coming, don’t fret the small stuff.

Wayne, Carol & Blue

 

[rlievenski4555]

Haha lol - I wasn’t going there…

If any motorcycle enthusiast says they haven’t had to take something apart a second time either one of two things is true:

1. They haven’t done enough wrenching… yet
2. They haven’t caught their mistake… yet

The point is - either way their day is coming, don’t fret the small stuff.

Wayne, Carol & Blue

A great point made! My admission is for what I discovered yesterday. I replaced all the OEM brake and clutch lines with stainless last spring. While changing brake fluid for this season, I happened to notice the rear brake having 2 bleeder screws. The outer one was the only one I used previously. I bled both generously seeing some air bubbles (props to the Motion Pro bleeder valve!). I now have 1/2 the pedal travel and a much stronger brake feel. This teaches me to always use the maintenance manual to keep my old brain from missing something.

 

[2andblue]

A great point made! My admission is for what I discovered yesterday. I replaced all the OEM brake and clutch lines with stainless last spring. While changing brake fluid for this season, I happened to notice the rear brake having 2 bleeder screws. The outer one was the only one I used previously. I bled both generously seeing some air bubbles (props to the Motion Pro bleeder valve!). I now have 1/2 the pedal travel and a much stronger brake feel. This teaches me to always use the maintenance manual to keep my old brain from missing something.

Factory service manual is used in this garage for everything.

Working on the different bikes that come in the garage I have a host of digital copies - it’s the only way to go. Also I get to buy more tools this way - which in the end makes the jobs easier and results predictable.

Wayne, Carol & Blue