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Front Forks Removal

broosg

broosg

Tricycle
Hello,
I have a leak in the front fork. 2008 C-14 with 20K miles. I am pretty good at doing some repairs and maintenance but don't think I want to tackle disassembly of the shocks to replace the seals etc. I have a service manual. I believe that I have the tools to remove the shocks and bring them to a shop and have them do the repair. My questions are:
What parts of the farings do I have to remove?
What specific challenges and obstacles are there to removing the shocks?
Any time saving suggestions in doing the job?
How do I make sure that the shocks are reinstalled at the correct height? Note: I lowered the rear about an inch several years ago but never adjusted the front.
Appreciate any knowledge you can provide to me about doing this job.
Thanks
Bruce
 
broos said:
Hello,
I have a leak in the front fork. 2008 C-14 with 20K miles. I am pretty good at doing some repairs and maintenance but don't think I want to tackle disassembly of the shocks to replace the seals etc. I have a service manual. I believe that I have the tools to remove the shocks and bring them to a shop and have them do the repair. My questions are:
What parts of the farings do I have to remove?
What specific challenges and obstacles are there to removing the shocks?
Any time saving suggestions in doing the job?
How do I make sure that the shocks are reinstalled at the correct height? Note: I lowered the rear about an inch several years ago but never adjusted the front.
Appreciate any knowledge you can provide to me about doing this job.
Thanks
Bruce
Click to expand...
Where are you located, in the northeast?
As far as the height, take out a measuring tape and measure from the bottom of the lower triple clamp, and the edge of the fork seal on the tube.
 
What parts of the fairings do I have to remove?
The service manual doesn't mention pulling plastic.  I just looked and don't believe you would be required to pull plastic.  With that said, if you're going to dig into the bike like that, it might be good to just pull all the plastics and deal with things like a new air filter, coolant change and a valve check.  With all the plastics pulled, access to the pinch bolts on the forks will be easier and will also help you to get to know your C14 better.  Maybe upgrade the headlights and horn while you have easy access to everything. 

What specific challenges and obstacles are there to removing the shocks?
Nothing noteworthy in my opinion, other than just remembering how things were before you touched it.  Pics help.

Any time saving suggestions in doing the job?
Take pictures of anything you might forget like the position of the fork tubes at the top of the triple tree.

How do I make sure that the shocks are reinstalled at the correct height?
It's stated in the service manual and you can also take a picture to help.  It also depends on whether or not you want to lower the front to match the back or not.  If you're happy with the handling as it is, then put it back the way you found it.

This can be time consuming, but it's really not technically difficult.  Take your time.  Enjoy yourself.  If you want to do the shop a favor, break the fork caps loose before you loosen the pinch bolts.  I'm sure others will chime in with their tips soon. Hope that helps.

 
You may want to try a Motion Pro Seal Mate. Cured a couple of leaking fork seals for me.

I have removed and replaced forks a few times, not much to it. Loosen axle nut and clamp bolts. Support the front end. I put weights in my topbox or hung weight from the rear rack when I had no topcase. Then lifted front with a floor jack at the header junction.
Remove front fender and wheel. The top fork clamp bolts are easy with allen wrench. The botom hex head clamp bolts can be loosened without removing any plastic but is easier if you remove the black plastic radiator cover or whatever it is called, held on by the horn bracket bolts. This gives you better access to the lower clamp bolts and easier to avoid rounding the hex heads.

I lube the tube to help it slide out. I pry the bottom clamps open slightly with a flat screwd river and twist and pull down.
 
lather said:
The botom hex head clamp bolts can be loosened without removing any plastic but is easier if you remove the black plastic radiator cover or whatever it is called, held on by the horn bracket bolts. This gives you better access to the lower clamp bolts and easier to avoid rounding the hex heads.
Click to expand...

Mine were very tight from the factory, suggest using 6 point socket (vs. 12) to lessen chance of rounding the hex head. 

Also, if you've ever thought of lowering the front to quicken handling or get slightly better foot contact with ground, this is good time to do it.  Requires handle bar risers to get clearance up on top for more fork exposure.  I raised my forks (lowered the front) by 0.6 inches and immediately loved the improved turn-in and responsiveness in curves; no bottoming or sidestand issues at all.
 
Sorry about my delay in responding. When I posted the original question I thought I would be tackling the problem soon after but life got in the way and I am now close to the point of removing the forks.
So thank you to everyone who provided me with their knowledge.
I would like to replace the horn is there a brand/model which I could just swap out for the OEM? The horn is kind of wimpy so would like something more appropriate for the bike.
Happy Holidays to all and safe riding New Year.
Bruce  :beerchug:
 
broos said:
Sorry about my delay in responding. When I posted the original question I thought I would be tackling the problem soon after but life got in the way and I am now close to the point of removing the forks.
So thank you to everyone who provided me with their knowledge.
I would like to replace the horn is there a brand/model which I could just swap out for the OEM? The horn is kind of wimpy so would like something more appropriate for the bike.
Happy Holidays to all and safe riding New Year.
Bruce  :beerchug:
Click to expand...

There's a few HORN threads going on actively right now.
Check 'em out.  :beerchug:

http://forum.cog-online.org/accessories-c14/horn-upgrade-73194/

 
One trick I discovered when re-assembling, but it'd be equally useful for removing the forks:

Loosen, then remove the clamp bolts.  Thread them back in from the back until the tip is flush with the gap.  Place a piece of sheet metal in the gap.  Hand tighten the bolts until they retain the sheet metal, and then tighten them an addition half turn.  The Forks should slip out or back in.

I'd relax the bolts while you're waiting for the forks to come back.

Lars
 
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