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Grip Heater Switch

ZG/ZN Kim

Member
Member
My OEM heated grips mysteriously quit working last week. I live in the north country and would like to have this issue behind me soon.
Checked the fuse-OK, Checked the relay-OK, all associated wiring seems to show continuity-OK.
The on/off/control switch has 2 plugs. The Shop Manual test for the heater switch is to have the switch on, and test for continuity between the brown wire on one plug, and the black/gray wire on the other plug. I had no continuity indicating a bad switch. Common sense would also dictate that when on there should be continuity somewhere. I could not get continuity with any combination of wires.

Anyway I purchased a used switch, and had the same continuity results. I kind of found that odd. I have not heard of any issues with the grip heater switch. Got me thinking, maybe I am missing something.

I guess, the only reason I posted this is to ask, has anybody had a grip heater switch quit working on them?
 
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Find a known working switch and make sure your meter leads are working.
Other than that, I can only guess you have two bad switches.
 
I find it suspicious that a new part is bad in exactly the same way. What are you using to test continuity? If a DVM, what mode it is set to? See if the shop manual specifies which test test goes where or try swapping the test leads and see if it reads. I suspect the temp control is using electronics to pulse width modulate power for temp control - this is typically a SCR, and if so the diode will only conduct in one direction.
 
My OEM heated grips mysteriously quit working last week. I live in the north country and would like to have this issue behind me soon.
Checked the fuse-OK, Checked the relay-OK, all associated wiring seems to show continuity-OK.
The on/off/control switch has 2 plugs. The Shop Manual test for the heater switch is to have the switch on, and test for continuity between the brown wire on one plug, and the black/gray wire on the other plug. I had no continuity indicating a bad switch. Common sense would also dictate that when on there should be continuity somewhere. I could not get continuity with any combination of wires.

Anyway I purchased a used switch, and had the same continuity results. I kind of found that odd. I have not heard of any issues with the grip heater switch. Got me thinking, maybe I am missing something.

I guess, the only reason I posted this is to ask, has anybody had a grip heater switch quit working on them?
Is it possible you have broken/damaged wire between fuse and switch plug? Or lost the ground in between?
 
Are you testing just the switch, or the switch with wires attached?
If biker mice got in there, they could have chewed open a wire, In that case all switches will act bad if there is a broken wire.

Try testing each component separately.
 
Are you testing just the switch, or the switch with wires attached?
If biker mice got in there, they could have chewed open a wire, In that case all switches will act bad if there is a broken wire.

Try testing each component separately.
I unplugged the on/off variable temp switch and tested it alone per the manual. It failed per the manual. Steve Smith makes a interesting point, but the switch alone appears to only have a on/off function, and a rheostat.

As stated previously, the fuse, relay and all the other wiring seem to be in order.
I have a NEW switch coming, I will report back mid-week.
 
Well I got a new grip heater switch yesterday. OK, here is what I found:
-I believe the manual is incorrect, the heater switch will never show continuity, at least when using a digital voltage meter. I ended up testing 3 switches, all tested open circuit whether on/off, or any combination of wires.
-I can be kind of a DA, but could not find a good way jumper around the switch. But the actual problem may have prevented it from working also
-All wires from the switch to relay tested good, relay to battery good, relay to ECU good, and switch to grip plugins(by triple tree)
-I finally tested the grips themselves(plugs near triple tree) for continuity. The left grip was 1.9/2.0 ohms, the right grip was open. -Ended up finding a broken wire where the power wire enters the right grip. I am not sure they are parallel or series wiring, but if one grip heater is flawed, you lose both of them
 
Well I got a new grip heater switch yesterday. OK, here is what I found:
-I believe the manual is incorrect, the heater switch will never show continuity, at least when using a digital voltage meter. I ended up testing 3 switches, all tested open circuit whether on/off, or any combination of wires.
-I can be kind of a DA, but could not find a good way jumper around the switch. But the actual problem may have prevented it from working also
-All wires from the switch to relay tested good, relay to battery good, relay to ECU good, and switch to grip plugins(by triple tree)
-I finally tested the grips themselves(plugs near triple tree) for continuity. The left grip was 1.9/2.0 ohms, the right grip was open. -Ended up finding a broken wire where the power wire enters the right grip. I am not sure they are parallel or series wiring, but if one grip heater is flawed, you lose both of them
Good eventual tracking down and triage. Would guess the right blinks out more often; were you able to snip the wires clean, perform a repair, heat shrink and all good?

And BTW what year? Wondering if we are going to start seeing these fail more frequently..
 
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