I am Bill and I am glad to meet you all. I am looking forward to riding with you all soon. I have a question concerning my 2020 Concours. 1. my fairing is not fully attached and will not lock up properly. I hear this is a problem shared by many of us. Does anyone have a solution you are willing to share? 2. I am looking at replacing the exhaust and remapping the ECU. I researched and found an exhaust that interest me. AreaP Full exhaust louded by Ivanperformanceproducts.com. The results can be seen in Kawasaki Concours 14 Slip-On Exhaust - Area P :: No Limits (areapnolimits.com) . I have no personal experience with these companies and am hoping some of you may be able to express your experience.
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Hello new member from Cypress TX
- Thread starter william.schultz2343
- Start date
Howdy Bill, welcome to the forum. I'm on the SW side of Houston (Sugar Land area). We rode together on the 4th of July, from Drifter's down to the Buc-ee's at I-10. Was a fun run. Glad we ran into each other.
Yeah, there are a range of options to choose from when it comes to setups once you've committed to removing the factory bazooka. I've found that the BlackWidow (BW) slipon and MRP (Mountain Runner Premium) from SISF (Steve from Shouldabeen Engineering) is a great setup. I'm still running the stock header, which for me is a non-issue because I'm not looking for peak performance at WOT (wide open throttle) on a dyno. Mid-range torque is really where it's at for most of us, as well as keeping the noise level to a livable level for longer runs. I don't have any experience with other tuners or full exhaust kits. I've recently picked up a lightly used 2Bros slipon that seems to be a bit more quiet, and it has a lower pitch than the BW expresses. It does appear to be somewhat more restrictive though, albeit only slightly. Everything is a tradeoff. My BW is available if you want it, for a fair price.
As for the body work, like we talked about I've had the same issue with the painted parts not marrying up with the unpainted bottoms since the day I picked up my 2021 with zero miles from the dealership in March of last year. Has never been 100% right, and the dealership said that's just the way some of them are. And I don't feel like messing around with them enough that I end up breaking off a piece somewhere. I'll live with it. As you saw, my bike is black-on-black anyway so it doesn't just jump right out unless you're looking directly at it.
We're going to need to get the band back together once this blistering heat starts to move on in the weeks ahead. Ted and some of the other guys from H-town metro area will need to schedule something more local. Riding 4.5 hrs to the South Central region fall event might be a challenge to get wifey to buy into, and the Arkansas event a couple weeks before will also be problematic if I can't get wifey and kiddos to go along for the weekend.
Cheers amigo, AB
(you've got my mobile #)
Yeah, there are a range of options to choose from when it comes to setups once you've committed to removing the factory bazooka. I've found that the BlackWidow (BW) slipon and MRP (Mountain Runner Premium) from SISF (Steve from Shouldabeen Engineering) is a great setup. I'm still running the stock header, which for me is a non-issue because I'm not looking for peak performance at WOT (wide open throttle) on a dyno. Mid-range torque is really where it's at for most of us, as well as keeping the noise level to a livable level for longer runs. I don't have any experience with other tuners or full exhaust kits. I've recently picked up a lightly used 2Bros slipon that seems to be a bit more quiet, and it has a lower pitch than the BW expresses. It does appear to be somewhat more restrictive though, albeit only slightly. Everything is a tradeoff. My BW is available if you want it, for a fair price.
As for the body work, like we talked about I've had the same issue with the painted parts not marrying up with the unpainted bottoms since the day I picked up my 2021 with zero miles from the dealership in March of last year. Has never been 100% right, and the dealership said that's just the way some of them are. And I don't feel like messing around with them enough that I end up breaking off a piece somewhere. I'll live with it. As you saw, my bike is black-on-black anyway so it doesn't just jump right out unless you're looking directly at it.
We're going to need to get the band back together once this blistering heat starts to move on in the weeks ahead. Ted and some of the other guys from H-town metro area will need to schedule something more local. Riding 4.5 hrs to the South Central region fall event might be a challenge to get wifey to buy into, and the Arkansas event a couple weeks before will also be problematic if I can't get wifey and kiddos to go along for the weekend.
Cheers amigo, AB
(you've got my mobile #)
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I think you may recognize this machine... I know I sure did when I saw it parked up there at Drifter's a couple weeks back! LOL
Bill welcome to the group. Fit up of plastics sometimes takes a little finessing, trick I have found is tightening up only after as much can be assembled as possible.
I have the Full AreaP exhaust and tuning mentioned. I have no complaints, quality is great, enjoy the performance throughout the RPM range with definite thrill top end being opened up. Sound level has not been an issue for us. With this exhaust we have days as long as 937 miles without any ear issues / headaches, etc. - I do wear ear plugs, my wife chooses not to.
See you around!
Wayne, Carol & Blue
Anthony it was truly a pleasure to meet you. And I am interested in your BW exhaust and the price you mentioned is not an issue. What is at an issue is my Engineering OCD. Before I make a full decision I have to quiet that feeling of unknowing and the only way I can do that is by researching the issues from all sides. Some aspects of torque VS back pressure from an engineering point of view doesn't make sense. So far the only verifiable reasons for a drop in torque with a corresponding drop in back pressure seems to be related to inadequate fuel to air mixture. If there is a proper vacuum in the exhaust to help remove all spent gases on the exhaust stroke and this causes the engine to not run well then this implies that the fuel volume being pumped into the cylinder must be too lean. And this makes sense to me as the factory is designing the injection assuming a cat in the exhaust will be restricting the evacuation of gases and therefore some of the burnt gases are carried into the next intake stroke and through the compression stroke..... This whole scenario should actually reduce the efficiency of the engine unless "The engine was "tuned" from the factory with that carry-over unburnable gas accounted for. See I warned you I have a serious case of Engineer's OCD. LOLHowdy Bill, welcome to the forum. I'm on the SW side of Houston (Sugar Land area). We rode together on the 4th of July, from Drifter's down to the Buc-ee's at I-10. Was a fun run. Glad we ran into each other.
Yeah, there are a range of options to choose from when it comes to setups once you've committed to removing the factory bazooka. I've found that the BlackWidow (BW) slipon and MRP (Mountain Runner Premium) from SISF (Steve from Shouldabeen Engineering) is a great setup. I'm still running the stock header, which for me is a non-issue because I'm not looking for peak performance at WOT (wide open throttle) on a dyno. Mid-range torque is really where it's at for most of us, as well as keeping the noise level to a livable level for longer runs. I don't have any experience with other tuners or full exhaust kits. I've recently picked up a lightly used 2Bros slipon that seems to be a bit more quiet, and it has a lower pitch than the BW expresses. It does appear to be somewhat more restrictive though, albeit only slightly. Everything is a tradeoff. My BW is available if you want it, for a fair price.
As for the body work, like we talked about I've had the same issue with the painted parts not marrying up with the unpainted bottoms since the day I picked up my 2021 with zero miles from the dealership in March of last year. Has never been 100% right, and the dealership said that's just the way some of them are. And I don't feel like messing around with them enough that I end up breaking off a piece somewhere. I'll live with it. As you saw, my bike is black-on-black anyway so it doesn't just jump right out unless you're looking directly at it.
We're going to need to get the band back together once this blistering heat starts to move on in the weeks ahead. Ted and some of the other guys from H-town metro area will need to schedule something more local. Riding 4.5 hrs to the South Central region fall event might be a challenge to get wifey to buy into, and the Arkansas event a couple weeks before will also be problematic if I can't get wifey and kiddos to go along for the weekend.
Cheers amigo, AB
(you've got my mobile #)
View attachment 33354
View attachment 33355View attachment 33356
Yes. Yes you did. LOL
Can I recommend you spend some time talking with Steve? He is one of our frequent contributors and has spent over a decade building tunes and figuring out what works best for Concours machines (C10 and C14). Check out Shoodaben Engineering:
Talk soon, AB
Can I recommend you spend some time talking with Steve? He is one of our frequent contributors and has spent over a decade building tunes and figuring out what works best for Concours machines (C10 and C14). Check out Shoodaben Engineering:
Google Sites: Sign-in
Access Google Sites with a personal Google account or Google Workspace account (for business use).
sites.google.com
Talk soon, AB
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AreaP service was stellar, they have had some backlogs so check on availability and their owner / President will give you the scoop on flows from an exhaust designer.
Ivan - same thing just call him, he’s open to chatting and answering any questions or concerns. He supports / tunes many brand / models.
Steve - I have less personal experience with and no products thereof, however from my interactions and word of mouth a leader for sure in the aftermarket Concours world.
PM me if you’d like to discuss more details.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
A Connie is a bit rich from the factory. (I think this is done because the extra fuel is needed in the Cat)
If you install a slip-on or a header you do change the mixture slightly, but it shouldn't be lean.
The term back pressure is overused. People confuse back pressure with tuning the system.
Every header is designed to be optimum in a particular RPM range.
Back pressure, or restrictions (or the removal of those) can be used to tune the RPM range a bit.
Below is a discussion that you should read thru.
BW header - getting your torque back
Being that the Black Widow header is smaller pipe diameter that the Delk or the Area P, it naturally has better low rpm power. Still, it can be better and surprisingly, adding the exhaust reducer actually made more peak power on the test bike I worked on. Again, easily done with parts you can...
forum.concours.org
In the discussion, you'll see that "Texas" and I experimented with the restrictor's that Steve is taking about in the discussion.
We did so on my 2-muffler system to see if the restrictors would work on a system like mine.
I'm uncertain that we ever found the ideal set up, but we definitely found that the restrictors effected the power band of the bike.
We also found that a stock header with Slip-on works very well with a Flash. (He has the MRP)
** Now that he's changed his Slip-on, (and I removed the 1 restrictor I had in 1 side) we may be experimenting again.
Anybody else doing Roll-On (modification) comparisons?
After I bought my C-14, a Buddy and I would compare our bikes by doing 3rd gear Roll-On's. ie; One of us would do a mod, we'd do a test, and the other would add the same thing, or install some other mod. Our test consisted of getting the bikes rolling, put them in 3rd gear, let them stabilize...
forum.concours.org
Ride safe, Ted
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Thank you it is great to hear your input
Thank you this site and the people on it are turning out to be a wealth of informationA Connie is a bit rich from the factory. (I think this is done because the extra fuel is needed in the Cat)
If you install a slip-on or a header you do change the mixture slightly.
The term back pressure is overused. People confuse back pressure with tuning the system.
Every header is designed to be optimum in a particular RPM range.
Back pressure, or restrictions (or the removal of those) can be used to tune the RPM range a bit.
Below is a discussion that you should read thru.
BW header - getting your torque back
Being that the Black Widow header is smaller pipe diameter that the Delk or the Area P, it naturally has better low rpm power. Still, it can be better and surprisingly, adding the exhaust reducer actually made more peak power on the test bike I worked on. Again, easily done with parts you can...
In the discussion, you'll see that "Texas" and I experimented with the restrictor's that Steve is taking about in the discussion.
We did so on my 2-muffler system to see if the restrictors would work on a system like mine.
I'm uncertain that we ever found the ideal set up, but we definitely found that the restrictors effected the power band of the bike.
We also found that a stock header with Slip-on works very well with a Flash. (He has the MRP)
** Now that he's changed his Slip-on, (and I removed the 1 restrictor I had) we may be experimenting again.
Anybody else doing Roll-On (modification) comparisons?
After I bought my C-14, a Buddy and I would compare our bikes by doing 3rd gear Roll-On's. ie; One of us would do a mod, we'd do a test, and the other would add the same thing, or install some other mod. Our test consisted of getting the bikes rolling, put them in 3rd gear, let them stabilize...
Ride safe, Ted