How to repair pannier?

[mrinnocent]

My right side pannier has broken where the strap attaches to the outer shell. The end of the strap has a screw and small piece of broken plastic from the outer shell.

Has anyone repaired this before and has advice to share? Thanks!

 

[Just Cliff]

A picture would help, I'm not clear on what you're saying is broke. I repaired one once after being rear ended until I could come up with another one. I'm sure it's still in the shop somewhere, I can dig it out & look to see what my repair was to compare.

 

[mrinnocent]

Here is the area in question
And here is the specific part that broke

 

[big0red4224]

I'll try to remember to go out and look at my bag, but I think you might be able to secure it to the latching tab inside the swinging half. I'll take a look when I leave in a bit.

 

[Tim R]

Glue it back in with ABS cement. I glued an entire bag back together after being hit with medium ABS cement. (black) . It mounted back up and I took it to the repair shop on the bike for left side replacement plastic by insurance.

 

[mrinnocent]

Thanks, everyone, for taking the time to respond.

@Tim R aer you think like this sort of thing? https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/

 

[big0red4224]

I looked at my bag. Anchoring it to the latch would be solid. Only downside would be the slight awkwardness.

If you use proper ABS cement, the bond is as strong as the plastic.

 

[Tim R]

Thanks, everyone, for taking the time to respond.

@Tim R aer you think like this sort of thing? https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/

I don't see why it would not work. I used medium ABS cement I purchased from my local hardware store. And it was not moveable in about 15 seconds or less. I'm convinced it was just as strong as it was before it broke.

when I did the bag, I was not able to align every piece. So when I put the bag on it was a bit wonky. Because of this I had to force it on. Nothing gave way. Still solidly intact after the 60 mile ride to the nearest Kawasaki dealer.

I would sneek through the hole and glue from the back side.

 

[Just Cliff]

Along with what others have already said about using ABS cement. I would drill that rivet out & then use a small machine screw with a suitable fender washer on each side to have a clamping/reinforcement effect on it. Also If you have some thin aluminum laying around you could cut to appropriate length /width & then fold. Then that could be slid over the glued pieces, drill new hole then put bolt through it.

A little extra reinforcement can't hurt!

 

[laker9142]

What Cliff said but instead of fender washers and relying on the squish factor, I would suggest the piece of aluminum be shaped so you can get a couple of pop rivets in to the solid plastic below the break. Obviously the rivets would need a washer or something solid behind, to keep them from pulling through. Where there's a will there's a way.

 

[ursharkfuel]

I was a "tin bender" for 10 years in the USAF and we were forever applying fixes like this to our KC-135's (707) and B-52's. Aluminum extrusion was VERY handy and useful for many repair tasks. The 52 went into production in 57 and the spare parts ended on or about 65. We made, many, many "custom" parts for our aircraft in the 80's while I worked on them and we got real creative when it came to fixing things that would normally require replacement parts that were no longer being produced......those were the days and I felt like an actual craftsman. When I moved to the fighter bases we were used like flight line machinists basically removing stuck fasteners and doing little REAL repair work. I don't miss those days one bit!