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Kawasaki KiPass Question

A

akustaka9858

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Hey guys, new to the forum and I'm potentially going to be trading my 02 ZRX1200R + some cash for a 2016 Concourse this summer. I just had some questions about the KiPass system... I understand the information is "out there" but it is sparse in terms of being a complete package for what I am exactly trying to ask..

So "worse case scenario" is happening in terms of the ignition for this bike, the dude says that he only has 1 fob, and no immobilizer, I read online that as soon as I get the bike I should go to a dealer and get an immobilizer set up for my bike.. But pretty much how I am understanding the KiPass system is this:

""It sounds like as long as you have at minimum ONE functioning keyfob you can get an "immobilizer" fob copied at a dealership for like 50 bucks and it works the same as the original fob except you have to touch it to the ignition area of the bike every time to start it instead of it being "contactless", if you turn off the bike you have to repeat this process to restart it using the "immobilizer" fob or else the bike is rendered inoperable. Does that sound correct from your experience/knowledge?

I'm also assuming the key in the fob/immobilizer fob is just for unlocking the luggage compartments/seat?""

I asked that to the dude trading me the bike and he said "The key inside the fob is for the ignition of the bike, give me a minute I just woke up lol." Then didn't reply for over 8 hours.

Any further information in helping me understand this would be highly appreciated, I watched a video on youtube about it with an older gentleman sitting at a table with 1 fob and 1 immobilizer trying to explain it but it was still a bit confusing.
 
The owners manual refers to 2 fob types. 1) FOB (Portable Key) 2) Spare Fob
"Immobilizer" is a function of both fobs - it is how the function is used that is different
#1 is the primary one. It can be used for proximity (active) starting, or immobilizer (passive) starting
#2 can only be used for immobilizer (passive) starting
Proximity starting is when the fob is within a specific area around the bike, as shown in the diagram in the owners manual.
Immobilizer starting is when a fob is held against the ignition housing as shown in the owners manual. (useful with primary fob when battery is dead or if RFID fails)

Having a second fob (either type) is important as a backup. The important thing to know is that at least one fob is needed to add another fob to the KIPASS ECU. If you lose the only fob you have , or it ceases to function, the only option is to replace the KIPASS ECU with new fobs - a very expensive option.

The mechanical key in the fobs are emergency keys, and can be used for ignition or luggage - they should be keyed the same from the factory. Confirm this by trying it that this is true. The knob ignition key can be removed from the ignition by putting the ignition to FSS position.

Lots of good info was pinned in this thread: https://forum.concours.org/index.ph...gs-to-know-beginners-should-start-here.13763/

For complete details I suggest going to the Kawasaki web site and downloading a free copy of the owners manual.

Oh - and join COG... worth every penny for the info you will receive, and we a great group of members and many activities within reach of you.
 
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S Smith said:
The owners manual refers to 2 fob types. 1) FOB (Portable Key) 2) Spare Fob
"Immobilizer" is a function of both fobs - it is how the function is used that is different
#1 is the primary one. It can be used for proximity (active) starting, or immobilizer (passive) starting
#2 can only be used for immobilizer (passive) starting
Proximity starting is when the fob is within a specific area around the bike, as shown in the diagram in the owners manual.
Immobilizer starting is when a fob is held against the ignition housing as shown in the owners manual. (useful with primary fob when battery is dead or if RFID fails)

Having a second fob (either type) is important as a backup. The important thing to know is that at least one fob is needed to add another fob to the KIPASS ECU. If you lose the only fob you have , or it ceases to function, the only option is to replace the KIPASS ECU with new fobs - a very expensive option.

The mechanical key in the fobs are emergency keys, and can be used for ignition or luggage - they should be keyed the same from the factory. Confirm this by trying it that this is true. The knob ignition key can be removed from the ignition by putting the ignition to FSS position.

Lots of good info was pinned in this thread: https://forum.concours.org/index.ph...gs-to-know-beginners-should-start-here.13763/

For complete details I suggest going to the Kawasaki web site and downloading a free copy of the owners manual.

Oh - and join COG... worth every penny for the info you will receive, and we a great group of members and many activities within reach of you.
Click to expand...
If I end up getting this bike I very likely will join, I'm just currently in the middle of a bankruptcy battle and cannot spend money frivolously (hence why I am doing the trade in summer instead of this moment) I'd love to have a group I can meetup with and do long rides and stuff, group events and stuff. I'm disabled so I have plenty of time.

Also you say that the key within the fob can be used for ignition as well, does that technically mean (not saying anyone SHOULD do this) you could throw away the fob and immobilizer on the bike and just use the key manually every time to start the bike? Or am I understanding that wrong, sounds like if you wanted to use the key manually you still need to disable the "immobilizer" part of the bike actively or passively.
 
Fob or immobilizer are always needed. The key in the fob is just an extra physical key. I made a copy of it to keep on a keychain. I never take out the big knob key. There's no reason to.
 
Pete_COG_TN said:
Fob or immobilizer are always needed. The key in the fob is just an extra physical key. I made a copy of it to keep on a keychain. I never take out the big knob key. There's no reason to.
Click to expand...
What's the point of being able to use it in the ignition then? Is it just for the option so you can feel like you are more in control of ignition of the bike? Or maybe so you can turn off the motor without having to hit the kill switch if you do not want to use it for some reason?

I would of assumed that it was just for the luggage racks but the ability to use it in the ignition confuses me.

And alright, so I understand that fob or the spare immobilizer is always needed, but if you lose the fob and have an immobilizer already registered to the bike you can use that to get another fob registered? Am I getting that right?
 
With a FOB or "Spare FOB" is sorta like having to have a FOB for a new car used to start with the start button. The FOB has a spare key to open the gas cap or the bags without using the Stove key. The Stove key is called that because it sorta looks like a knob on a stove. Some people never remove the Stove key because the seem to be soft and bend easily.

I think some tend to over think the Kipass system. No one is going to ride off on your bike without a FOB of some sort that is registered to the bike. Used FOB's on E bay are useless unless they come with the factory plastic wrap that has numbers on it for that FOB.

If you want to ride with like thinking people I would check the calendar for your area and even beyond. Find something that looks interesting and go have some fun.
 
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The key in the ignition also allows (with the use of the immobilizer - FIRST) you to open the fairing pocket (push button).
 
Can anyone point me in the direction of a thread that lists things that would be considered a "common problem" with a 2016 C14 please? I read about the battery ground terminal post corroding where it connects to the frame and such being common, anything else major?
 
akustaka9858 said:
Can anyone point me in the direction of a thread that lists things that would be considered a "common problem" with a 2016 C14 please? I read about the battery ground terminal post corroding where it connects to the frame and such being common, anything else major?
Click to expand...
These bikes of all years seem to be very dependable. Just change oil and gas and do the regular maintenance. The ground to the frame that may or may not corrode. Clean it treat it and be done with it. Keep it away from mice.:sneaky:
 
Something I didn't see mentioned is what the FSS stand for.
It's Fuel, Seat, Storage. Taking the key out of the ignition will allow you to open the fuel cap.
remove the seat and open the side cases.

I use mine every so often because I heard/believe that if you never take it out it may (someday) never come out.
It's called use it or lose it. I know some swear that they never take the key out and that is their choice.

When I fill up with fuel, sometimes it's not so easy to reach in my pocket while sitting on the bike and is easier to
unlock the fuel cap the the key in the ignition. Different strokes for different folks.
 
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