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kneesavers--brake pedal adjustment

B

bajasam

Scooter
anybody have a good way to close that 1 3/8ths gap that now exists after the kneesaver install. i cant press the brake pedal without lifting my foot up off the footpeg. the gear shift was an easy quick adj, but not sure how this cast aluminum brake pedal will take a bend.
 
you have to adjust the clevis yoke, below the master cylinder...

see Murph's site, and click on the thing about photos;

he should have highlighted that text in the sentence
"Check out some comparison photos here to get a real flavor for the difference between ours and other offerings." there is a hyper link to it hidden...
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/pegcompare.htm

it takes you to some pictures... but ya gotta get down on all 4's and make the rod adjustment...

kinda like on the other side, where you have to rotate the shifter on the shaft a notch or so.
 
Exactly what MOB said, and I'd add to make sure you adjust the brake light switch afterwards, or it will keep the brake light on.  Been there, done that.
 
so glenn does your brake pedal stroke feel normal, as the svc manual calls for a specific 44mm clevis pin measurement that appears to have a relationship to the piston stroke length and makes no mention whatsoever of using the clevis shaft to adjust pedal position. this along with your mention of having to rebend brakelight spring leads me to believe this is armchair engineering at it's worst. thx for your response but ima gonna try rebending the brake pedal arm about an inch lower first before i mess with re-engineering the master cylinder functionality.
 
It's been a few years since I installed mine, but I got good brake pedal height without any re-engineering.  Just used the stock adjustment.  After I got the pedal where I wanted it, I had to adjust the brake switch to the right position, but I don't recall anything beyond adjusting--no bending, cutting, etc.  I'll take a look at the bike later and see if it triggers any memories.  It's in the spare refrigerator (also known as the corner of the garage) right now.
 
I've never made this adjustment, but I think I recall that the lock nut had to be removed at the Clevis to get enough adjustment.

NOTE: I'm pretty sure that an attempt to bend the cast brake pedal will break it.

Ride safe, Ted
 
 
The locknut is not required because the clevis prevents the rod from rotating. Unplug the wires or you'll twist them as you make the adjustment, depending on how many revolutions you turn, of course.
 
Even after removing the lock nut, I still need to lift my foot off the peg to apply the brake.....
 
thats good to know, how much more drop do you need to get it to not having to lift your heel.the less i have to bend pedal arm the less chance it might crack.
 
bajasam said:
so glenn does your brake pedal stroke feel normal, as the svc manual calls for a specific 44mm clevis pin measurement that appears to have a relationship to the piston stroke length and makes no mention whatsoever of using the clevis shaft to adjust pedal position. this along with your mention of having to rebend brakelight spring leads me to believe this is armchair engineering at it's worst. thx for your response but ima gonna try rebending the brake pedal arm about an inch lower first before i mess with re-engineering the master cylinder functionality.
Click to expand...

STOP.... put the hammer down.... Nothing needs to be, or should be BENT....

everything we people here have said is correct,its all fully adjustable... you don't need to BEND anything... adjust the clevis, and also adjust the location of the brake switch... Unplug the switch first tho.... it has an adjusting nut to set it's location and height....nothing there needs to be BENT.

you aren't re engineering the stroke of the m/c piston, that piston tkaes so little movement to effectively actuate a properly bled rear single caliper, it is not a concern, consider the fact the front m/c can move fluid easily, in a minimal stroke, to effect 4 times more brake pistons...

you need to get down there and look,disassemble, and examine these parts, and listen to these folks before you break something.
 
I know that when I got mine, Murphy sent complete instructions. Disconnect the clevis, remove the jam nut, put the clevis back on to the desired location, and adjust the switch.

I never had to remove my foot from the peg, just had to bend it down further than I wanted to.
 
my bike was as yours herb, removed locknut,used all adjustment the clevis had and my toe still could'nt slide right onto the pedal without lifting my heel up off the peg. so pulled it back apart removed pedal and straightened it downward another inch or so.now its just perfect,just rotate my toe inward w/o any up or down movement of my foot and my toe can pivot right onto the pedal.p.s. if you dont have any welding or heat treat experience be very conservative with the torch when heating cast aluminum as the temperature window is very narrow to work your metal. thx all for your responses.
 
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