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Mixing fork oil to achieve correct weight.

Hi, as per above, I want to make my fork oil heavier  :eek:
I have a litre of Silkolene RSF 7.5 weight fork oil, and need to make 15 weight. Can I add 80 weight gearbox oil to this, to get to 15?
If so, can anyone work out the ratio please? I'm getting myself more and more confused....
I think 15w will work for me, but I can alter later by removing some oil and adding the fork oil or the gear oil: this would be a bit of guesswork but as long as I can get a base line to work from, I'll be okay.
I'm on a tight budget and already have the fork and gearbox oils, so want to use them (plus I like to do my own tuning).  ;D
 
Being retired; I understand the budget.

Just offering thoughts. Others can give you a ratio as I'm unsure.

I've heard of mixing fork oils to get a different viscosity.
  Haven't herd of mixing vastly different viscosities to do what you want.
  Also; Fork oil is a Anti foaming hydraulic oil and gear oil is not.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Mix of 7.5w and 30w in equal proportion would give 18.75 weight if my math still works. That is somewhat between 15&20w and would suspect be close enough.

Do not know about the use of gear oil or hydraulic oil some have recommended here. But will try it someday for an experiment.  Post if you try it please.
 
I would not recommend doing this.  Usually mixing different wait oils is a bad plan.  The oils do not mix...they will separate and layer so you'd end up with a glob of 80W on the bottom with a column of 7.5W floating on it.  Recognize money is tight but you'll probably just end up having to do the service again with the right weight and may possibly damage your suspension due to that glob of heavy weight oil settled down at the bottom.  I'm not an auto or motorcycle mechanic so hopefully someone will chime in if I'm wrong but this does not sound like a good solution to your issue.  Jeff
 
I agree, not going to mix my own: as said, likely be false economy and extra work.
I've found a full litre tub of 20W oil in the depths of my shed! Silkolene again, so I'll mix up the 20 and 7.5 to get about 17, if its not damping enough I can soon suck some out and add 20w.  ;D
 
Unfortunately damper rod technology is so antiquated that no matter what viscosity  fluid you use the damping properties are poor at best.  If you are frugal and want  the next level up  in handling the most inexpensive  recourse is emulators. For $46 you cannot go wrong.  There is some labor involved but the results are well worth the effort.  Ask anyone who has these and they will vouch for them.                                                                                                                https://tinyurl.com/rs4t44u

If you read the first review... That is our very own Connie_Rider -  aka: Ted  from this forum.

Very similar  procedure for the C10.
https://tinyurl.com/tm87dmp
 
I agree 100%, but as I've discussed in my other posts, the 'cheap' emulators double or treble in price by the time they get to the UK! Ebay sellers are asking for $100 plus. One seller has a US based site and sells them for about $49, but shipping to me is another $69  :eek:
The same seller has a Spanish site, so inside the EU, no customs or duty, and much lower shipping: the same parts from that site cost about $90...total rip-off!
 
I agree 100%, but as I've discussed in my other posts, the 'cheap' emulators double or treble in price by the time they get to the UK! Ebay sellers are asking for $100 plus. One seller has a US based site and sells them for about $49, but shipping to me is another $69  :eek:
The same seller has a Spanish site, so inside the EU, no customs or duty, and much lower shipping: the same parts from that site cost about $90...total rip-off!
If I cannot find a legal way of serving the stupid costs (plans are afoot!) I will have to do without, or should I win the lottery, buy genuine Racetech units for £106  :rotflmao:
 
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