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My 1st Connie

timothyhebert7819171

timothyhebert7819171

Member
Member
Hello, my name is Tim and I hail from Houston. I was a dual sport rider in the past (just sold my DRZ 400), but have really been wanting a Sport Tourer for longer rides. I was leaning towards an older St1300, or a newer 1250RT but saw this bike pop up on a forum I am a member of so I scooped it up.
2001 with 22k miles.
The previous owner rehabbed the bike with a carb rebuild and 2 Minute Mod from SISF, all fluids, fork seals and oil, and rebuilt the rear brakes. He also added the Delkevics slip ons and Russel seat.
I've only rode the bike twice so far since the tires are about 11 years old but love it so far. It's Way heavier moving around the garage than I am used to, but once moving it rides fine. It also needs some love to the front brakes, they are pretty spongy.
I replaced the battery and now am trying to decide on what tires to order, leaning towards the Bridestone Battlax BT-46, or Dunlop Elite 4's, unless anyone has other suggestions.
How hard is it to pull the wheels and replace the tires yourself? I have a BeadBreaker from Motion Pro and plenty of tire spoons, as well as a Tusk tire changing stand and Tusk balancer.
Lastly, I definitely need a taller windshield after tires, way to much buffeting for me. Leaning toward California Scientific or Clearview.
IMG_7246.JPG
 
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timothyhebert7819171 said:
Hello, my name is Tim and I hail from Houston. I was a dual sport rider in the past (just sold my DRZ 400), but have really been wanting a Sport Tourer for longer rides. I was leaning towards an older St1300, or a newer 1250RT but saw this bike pop up on a forum I am a member of so I scooped it up.
2001 with 22k miles.
The previous owner rehabbed the bike with a carb rebuild and 2 Minute Mod from SISF, all fluids, fork seals and oil, and rebuilt the rear brakes. He also added the Delkevics slip ons and Russel seat.
I've only rode the bike twice so far since the tires are about 11 years old but love it so far. It's Way heavier moving around the garage than I am used to, but once moving it rides fine. It also needs some love to the front brakes, they are pretty spongy.
I replaced the battery and now am trying to decide on what tires to order, leaning towards the Bridestone Battlax BT-46, or Dunlop Elite 4's, unless anyone has other suggestions.
How hard is it to pull the wheels and replace the tires yourself? I have a BeadBreaker from Motion Pro and plenty of tire spoons, as well as a Tusk tire changing stand and Tusk balancer.
Lastly, I definitely need a taller windshield after tires, way to much buffeting for me. Leaning toward California Scientific or Clearview.
View attachment 43579
Click to expand...
Looks familiar... seller live around savannah georgia by any chance?
 
Hello Tim. What part of Houston are you in? I was North Side, now moved out to near Conroe. (Cut and Shoot)
Easier to talk than to type so, I'll PM you a phone number. Give me a call if you're interested.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Welcome, great looking bike!

Of course I'm a bit biased as mine is a 2001 too, but I do have on good authority which reaches the highest levels at the Kawasaki design bureau that encompasses all aspects of paint research dealing with ground level speeds, standards of deviation, ballistic coefficients and stealth technology, purloined, no doubt, from what I will call Top Secret-Lindbergh files hidden away from prying eyes for many years and recently unearthed in a garage in New jersey, that the 2001 color blue is universally regarded by many in the aerospace community and quite a few, I might add, in the burgeoning Bigfoot hunters as most likely the fastest to 100mph C-10 Concours known to humankind in the free world. This is at sea level of course. Cleveland is at about 500ft above sea level and these numbers seem about right for me most times.

Good luck to you!
 
Welcome!
That blue is really pretty.
Bleeding might help the front brake. I had a 2005 and replaced the lines with stainless steel braided ones and it greatly helped the fell. I went with the two-piece that eliminated that little manifold because it had fewer joints.
Although I live in Indiana, to reduce the buffetting I cut the windshield down, WAY down. I cut it far enough that the wind was hitting me just at my armpits (I'm 6'0", 33" inseam). That put my head in "clean" air that was smooth. I arrived at the height by cutting it, riding on the hi highway and repeating, until the buffetting went away.
I wish I'd measured the reduced height...attached is the photo that best shows its final height.
 

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Jorge said:
Welcome!
That blue is really pretty.
Bleeding might help the front brake. I had a 2005 and replaced the lines with stainless steel braided ones and it greatly helped the fell. I went with the two-piece that eliminated that little manifold because it had fewer joints.
Although I live in Indiana, to reduce the buffetting I cut the windshield down, WAY down. I cut it far enough that the wind was hitting me just at my armpits (I'm 6'0", 33" inseam). That put my head in "clean" air that was smooth. I arrived at the height by cutting it, riding on the hi highway and repeating, until the buffetting went away.
I wish I'd measured the reduced height...attached is the photo that best shows its final height.
Click to expand...
Jorge, great info thank you. Do you recall where you order the lines and any other parts needed for the front brakes?
 
I also went with ss lines for brakes and clutch when I had my 98. Galfer or Spiegler (sp) were the principle suppliers of ss brake lines for bikes. I think I went spiegler as they had colored lines and I needed to get longer ones for the helibars.
 
Welcome! Lots of good people here! Now, I'm not up on C10 history or details, as I ride a C14, but that blue POPS! But I love all things blue, anyway.

Get your brakes and tires taken care of, and join us at our National Rally in Helen, GA in June. Whether you ride or trailer the bike, you'll be happy you attended!

Ride safe(ly)!

Toby
 
There are several good reads on brakes in the Tech Pages. You are using the tech pages, aren't you? Loads of info.
Priority is brakes and then tires. If over 10yo I would not even take the bike out on the road. Instead of braking and cornering they may just crumble.
 
I went to a local Kawasaki dealership yesterday, looked at the tires they had in stock and what could be ordered. They seemed to be having trouble finding a rear in that size to order. They do have a Shinko SR777 in stock for the rear, but I don't want the same tire for the front. From what I've read it's more of a Cruiser tire so it doesn't handle well at all on the front. They did have a good Bridgestone in stock for the front, think it was a BT32, but when I checked the DOT date, it was already 5 years old so I passed. Going to see what else they can come up with.
I plan to just get a Rabaconda changer in the future and do my own tires, but that and new tires are not in the budget right now unfortunately.
 
timothyhebert7819171 said:
I went to a local Kawasaki dealership yesterday, looked at the tires they had in stock and what could be ordered. They seemed to be having trouble finding a rear in that size to order. They do have a Shinko SR777 in stock for the rear, but I don't want the same tire for the front. From what I've read it's more of a Cruiser tire so it doesn't handle well at all on the front. They did have a good Bridgestone in stock for the front, think it was a BT32, but when I checked the DOT date, it was already 5 years old so I passed. Going to see what else they can come up with.
I plan to just get a Rabaconda changer in the future and do my own tires, but that and new tires are not in the budget right now unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Check the search engine for threads for c10 tires. I know some of the owners have had to wider on the rear to find ones to fit the rim. It was one of the reasons someone (tinkerer) came up with the mean streak wheel conversion that was popular.
 
Any Cycle Gear will work. If you want a new tire, order one there to get new.
Remove the wheel and take it to them.
Cycle Mania is on the North Side of Houston (on 1960) and will do it if you just take in the bike.
Cycle gear is wheels only.

You said that you didn't want the Cruiser tire for the front because of poor handling.
If you install 2 radials you will get better/quicker steering, but not by a lot.
Many do the radial front/belted rear and like it.

I have the {110/80ZR-18 Metzler Roadtec Z8 Interact / front, with a 180/60ZR-16 Shinko Journey / rear}
I really like the Metzler Z8 and recommend it.
Unfortunately, I don't think that they offer a 150 or 160/80-16 rear.

The weird combination works for me with the Shinko Rear, but I don't recommend the 180 size.
Maybe you can get a 150/80 0r 160/80.

Jim Snyder may know a good sporty rear he can suggest.
He used to have a favorite but that one is no longer available.
I'll try to ask him to post here.

Lots of luck.
Headed to Arkansas this morning for a ride.
Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
Any Cycle Gear will work. If you want a new tire, order one there to get new.
Remove the wheel and take it to them.
Cycle Mania is on the North Side of Houston (on 1960) and will do it if you just take in the bike.
Cycle gear is wheels only.

You said that you didn't want the Cruiser tire for the front because of poor handling.
If you install 2 radials you will get better/quicker steering, but not by a lot.
Many do the radial front/belted rear and like it.

I have the {110/80ZR-18 Metzler Roadtec Z8 Interact / front, with a 180/60ZR-16 Shinko Journey / rear}
I really like the Metzler Z8 and recommend it.
Unfortunately, I don't think that they offer a 150 or 160/80-16 rear.

The weird combination works for me with the Shinko Rear, but I don't recommend the 180 size.
Maybe you can get a 150/80 0r 160/80.

Jim Snyder may know a good sporty rear he can suggest.
He used to have a favorite but that one is no longer available.
I'll try to ask him to post here.

Lots of luck.
Headed to Arkansas this morning for a ride.
Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
Thanks for the great advice Ted. I decided not to use that dealership as they didn’t seem to know what tires these bikes need.
While searching on the web last night, I did see that Cycle Gear has the best options in stock.
My plan is to go with a Bridgestone Battlax BT46 rear and a Bridgestone Battlax T33 front. With the savings I can afford the Rabaconda tire changer as well.
Might as well get used to changing my own tires. I plan to also order new wheel bearings and valve stems.
 
timothyhebert7819171 said:
Thanks for the great advice Ted. I decided not to use that dealership as they didn’t seem to know what tires these bikes need.
While searching on the web last night, I did see that Cycle Gear has the best options in stock.
My plan is to go with a Bridgestone Battlax BT46 rear and a Bridgestone Battlax T33 front. With the savings I can afford the Rabaconda tire changer as well.
Might as well get used to changing my own tires. I plan to also order new wheel bearings and valve stems.
Click to expand...
I knew you'd chime in here Ted.

Tim, as a newbie, you will quickly learn the connie rider is THE MAN with alot of answers and a pretty mean mustache. Just dont fall for his line 'red is the fastest color' Ted has done a lot of tinkering in his days with both the c10 and c14 concours.
 
180/60ZR-16 Shinko Journey / rear
I think that is what I ended up with also. It seems fine so far. Just had it out in the hill country and it still has tread.
 
Not all Cycle Gear stores install tires. Nearest to me does not.
A year ago Freebird6 and i partnered on a Rabaconda. After changing a number of tires with spoons, the Rabaconda makes it almost fun...almost. iI'd recommend it.
 
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