New Lights Up Front, but WHERE??

[Locomotiveman]

2 Spot Lights. 400 Lumen LEDs. Mounting them low on the C10's fairing somewhere. I want Lights ON only when Headlight is ON, don't need a switch. Where to mount and how to wire them simply but properly?? That is the question. Thoughts, personal experiences appreciated. Locomotiveman

 

[Outback_Jon]

When you say on with the headlight, what exactly do you mean?  On with high beam, low beam, or always?  I ask because some states have laws regarding auxiliary driving lights.

Whatever way you choose, you should go through an auxiliary fuse to power them, whether from a separate fuse block, or just a stand-alone inline fuse.  Don't try to draw power from an existing circuit.

If you want them on with high or low beam, you can use the high or low beam wires from the bike to trigger a relay to turn them on.  (That would be the BLUE wire on your relay.)

Where to mount is a good question.  I have Canyon Cages bars on mine that mount my lights quite nicely. 

 

[Wizeguy]

I was going to direct you here:

http://forum.cog-online.org/accessories-c10/gbyii-light-mounts-by-snarf/msg106138/#msg106138

Except with the recent "enhancements" over at Photophucket, Rev Rider & MOB's good photos have lost their link.  Maybe you could PM those gentlemen to ask about the piece.

Basically it is a simple mount that uses the front & middle screws at the top of the lower fairing.

I actually have a pair that the previous owner made, but they are thin sheet metal & they shake too much on the road.  If I ever get some lightweight LEDs like yours, I might try using them again!

 

[Locomotiveman]

They come with very nifty mounting brackets, originally for Victory bikes. Agreed, use an In-line fuse, which was included. For arguments sake, let's say I also go LED bulbs for the amber fairing lights; wouldn't these 2 400 lumen  LED spot lights gently load that existing circuit?? ie just splice (with in-line fused wires) into the amber light's wires without a relay.. Kit has a relay, fuse, etc., so that may be a moot point, but I AM curious about was is doable loadwise and what wouldn't be. I do NOT want a switch and I simply want these spot lights ON when the headlamp is, regardless of HI/LO beam.  I am assuming the hardware of resistors, etc for LED's is within the LED fixture itself and everything is Plug n Play. Locomotiveman

 

[connie_rider]

NOTE: I am NOT an electrician. So, others can correct me if I err...
  I (think) amperage wise you will be fine.
    But (I think) I see 2 problems with your plan.
      1) You might have to change the blinker relay for use with LED Signal Lights.
      2) The Hi and low beams come out of your switch as separate circuits.
            ie; If you tie both hi and low circuits to your running lights, you will no longer have a
                    hi and a lo beam at the headlight.
    NOTE: Adding a Diode in either the hi or low wire (from the hi/lo switch to the running lights) will cure this problem.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[MAN OF BLUES]

I got your note, as said, we need to know the current draw, in watts... or what ampearage they are rated to pull...
I think its wise to run a relay, as these appear to draw some power... so the relay is good insurance, and it can be "triggered" with low draw from the headlight circuits.. and the actual power consumption will then come from the battery, or aux fuse box circuit.

I'll try to find the info based on your pictures... but a link to the actuall lights would help greatly in the process of finding the ratings I'm looking for.
Thanx

 

[MAN OF BLUES]

Ok, back
I went to the website and read the instructions and other stuff... they give no amp/watt ratings on the led model, but the halogen ones say they pull 50W.. which is substantial...
I have to assume, that even though leds "usually pull less", they bump tththe power up to get mega more light /lumen output, so they still pull amps...

I HIGHLY suggest installing these as shown in the instructions, using a relay, wired to the battery, and also the switch that is supplied with them...
The trigger wire for the switch can be tied to one of the aux wires under the dash, that are powered when the bike is started and running, which is the same as when the headlights are on... or the license plate light for that matter...  that wouldd be the orange wire shown on their instruction sheet for their switch...

I caution with good reason...
We have seen many instances of meltdowns on the alternator wiring harness, stemming from a resistive connection that just appears after time and corrosion takes place. Its never a good time, and a wire meltdown occurs, usually in the middle of the night... and your battery has been drained during that processs...
Being able to turn these on and off, seperate from the systems already high draw/puny supply, allow you to better controll your power usage.., especially when the bike is running at lower rpms, and if you have any "other accessories" pulling power.

So, in the end, no matter what, you still need to run the lights power dircuit thru a relay...which draws power from the battery.. and it should be fused
If you make the decision to not use their switch, you can still see by the wiring diagram which wire goes to the "aux" circuit on the bike, by how the switch was used .. however I again highly recommend not doing that.

 

[fred-houston]

In my younger days I wired in an accessory, specifically lights, and did not use a relay or fuse block.  It was a nice bike until I fried most of the wiring harness.  Now I do not hook anything up without using a relay and fuse block, no matter what the draw is.

 

[Locomotiveman]

Well, FRED. Your observation is akin to my Orthopedic Surgeon's, "Stay off that ankle for a while, becuz otherwise I may have to Amputate your foot". Here's what I have done so far, as of July 13, 2017. Mounted the lights, using the VERY robust brackets that came with them. I will wire them maybe tomorrow, perhaps use longer Allen head fairing bolts.  Very tidy look, powder coated Satin Black. Locomotiveman

 

[Locomotiveman]

For What It's Worth. The In-line fuse holder has a 15/Amp fuse.

 

[MAN OF BLUES]

For What It's Worth. The In-line fuse holder has a 15/Amp fuse.

I waß gonna ask about the fuse, but you supplied it before I could ask....
That fuse tells the tale....
Those lights combined are pulling about 100 watts or more, to be fused like that....

Under no circumstance should you try to eliminate the relay....

 

[Locomotiveman]

Yep.  so,...Brown wire to the Headlight is what I T-tap my wiring to??  Helluva nice deal to have that complete Schematic Posted on COG a while back. I am intrigued by the fact I can shut OFF the C10's headlight with a momentary ON/OFF/ON flick of the Ignition key. Hmmm.

 

[Jorge]

The box says they are LED, and they put out 400 lumens, so...
comparing them to the LEDs I put on my bike (and wife's): they put out 700 Lumens, and draw 10W each. I should draw less then 10W each. 15A fuse seems like overkill.

You mention that you don't want a switch, so I might suggest wiring the blue wire directly into one of the running lights on the dashboard. If I remember right, the relay will draw only milliamps, maybe 30 mA or less?  That additional load from the light circuit is negligible. When I installed driving lights on my C10, I tapped off the left running light (not the turn signal, but the running light wire) and used this to power the relay that controlled the lights. This turned the lights on/off with the running lights.

Jorge

 

[Locomotiveman]

Thanks Jorge. I will probably finish late tomorrow.

 

[Jpd11958]

I made the light bar from the tech pages. Some aluminum from Lowe's and aluma-weld from a home show. Wired it from Murph's relay box to a dash switch left by PO. They come on with the key and can be turned off with the dash switch.

 

[stealth connie]

I had some REALLY BRIGHT spot lights mounted close to that, and also wired them into the turn signal wires, because I had removed the turnsignals.  (when I had my fairings professionally Rhino Lined, I had the turn signals removed, blanked and blended in.  They filled up the inside corners of the upper fairing with some professional bondo type stuff. You could kick the bike over and the upper fairing wasn't going to crack, at least at the common spot.)

#1. You don't need to change anything to ADD LED bulbs on the circuit, as long as you keep your incandescent bulbs in the turn signals. If you go all LED, then the flasher won't work correctly.

#2 Having SPOTLIGHT that FLASHES with your turnsignal, is GREAT.   
NO I'M NOT GOING STRAIGHT AT THIS STOP SIGN, I'M TURNING LEFT, WAIT YOUR TURN

#3 The only downside, if you have to park it on the side of the road, and turn the key to the RIGHT LOCK position (forks locked, but hazards stay on), your hazard lights will also cycle spots, so decreased battery standby.

 

[oldsmoboat]

http://imgur.com/OSQ92Oc