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New wiring harness?

Snoopyandcharles

Guest
Guest
Hi there, hope everyone is well.

I was riding my 2011 c14 when the bike just shown "FI" on the dash and engine turned off. Was not able start the bike.
When the ignition is turned on, there is a loud weird clicking noise.

I had the bike towed to a shop, they said it is the wiring harness.
They want 2k to try and repair the harness or 3k to replace the harness (1k for part and 14 hours of labor).

They said they will buy the bike for me for $500. I bought the bike 2 years ago used for 6k.

Any advice? Do you think I can try and re-wire the bike myself?

Thank you in advanced!
 
Run, don't walk from that shop. Its probably just a battery, or a fuse, but if you are not ready to do that basis troubleshooting with the tons of help on this forum...I'll give you 600.
 
Sounds like a good winter project - NO WAY would I hand over my machine for that little money.

How many miles on this 2011?

Time & learning opportunity.
 
Exactly! my bikes worth more especially since it's mine :)
She has about 32k mile. I bought the bike at 28.5k miles.

Hopefully soon I will get a garage I can store my bike at so will be able to do the work. I guess I will reach back out once I get a place I can work.

Though the shop wants $400 for the diagnostic and will need to figure out all the shipping.
 
Exactly! my bikes worth more especially since it's mine :)
She has about 32k mile. I bought the bike at 28.5k miles.

Hopefully soon I will get a garage I can store my bike at so will be able to do the work. I guess I will reach back out once I get a place I can work.

Though the shop wants $400 for the diagnostic and will need to figure out all the shipping.
Where are you located?
 
Hi there, hope everyone is well.

I was riding my 2011 c14 when the bike just shown "FI" on the dash and engine turned off. Was not able start the bike.
When the ignition is turned on, there is a loud weird clicking noise.

I had the bike towed to a shop, they said it is the wiring harness.
They want 2k to try and repair the harness or 3k to replace the harness (1k for part and 14 hours of labor).

They said they will buy the bike for me for $500. I bought the bike 2 years ago used for 6k.

Any advice? Do you think I can try and re-wire the bike myself?

Thank you just need pics of the damage
 
Their parts changers, not electricians, nor real mechanic's.
I suspect mouse chewed wire's.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: You can get a complete wiring harness on Ebay.
 
Last edited:
Their parts changers, not mechanic's.
I suspect mouse chewed wire's.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: You can get a complete wiring harness on Ebay.
Thank you - I rather buy new so not to run in to same issue again.

Anyone in the NY area know how to fix this?
I love the bike, just don't think 3k to fix makes sense.
 
I have a vague memory of some wire harness damage occurring on police bikes due to an overload of current on one or more of the main power wires going to the battery. Not knowing the exact nature of the problem or why the shop recommended replacing the wire harness it's hard to say, but I wouldn't jump to conclusions that the shop is wrong. I'd ask them for more details on exactly why they want to replace it and then come back and share them here. It's possible that if it the harness really is damaged that it could be repaired, but typically dealerships don't like to get into wire repairs and normally all the manufactures will just tell you to replace the harness as a whole.
 
I have a vague memory of some wire harness damage occurring on police bikes due to an overload of current on one or more of the main power wires going to the battery. Not knowing the exact nature of the problem or why the shop recommended replacing the wire harness it's hard to say, but I wouldn't jump to conclusions that the shop is wrong. I'd ask them for more details on exactly why they want to replace it and then come back and share them here. It's possible that if it the harness really is damaged that it could be repaired, but typically dealerships don't like to get into wire repairs and normally all the manufactures will just tell you to replace the harness as a whole.
Thanks Fred.
Here are the notes the shop put down:
"Kawasaki Concourse 1400 diagnostic, does not start.
**Wire harness damaged caused by corrosion in multiple areas, bike will start if power is sent direct but will shut off as soon as direct power is disconnected** Bike needs junction box and wireharness."

By corrosion they said the wire just got rusted. When the ignition is on, and engine cut off switch is off, the ticking noise is gone. Once they turn on the engine switch, the ticking starts. They are saying that is the motor going to the glove box acting up. It seems they are implying somehow the wires there got connected.

Well I got the bike out of the shop, since it was not fully put back together they gave me 20% off so paid 3290 instead of 375.

I think I might want to try this myself, though it looks scary with the amount of wires coming out.
 
I'd start by purchasing a can of Deoxit spray from Amazon and taking apart all the associated connectors and cleaning them with it and putting them back together. I don't think you need to replace the whole harness. They just don't want to take the time to properly troubleshoot it and fix it and are using the shotgun approach. You probably just have one faulty ground connection somewhere at one of the connector junctions. Once the cuplrit connector is located, it's probably a 20 minute fix.

Take a look at this thread. https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/09-c-14-need-help-electrical-issue.53283/
 
By the way, if you can ask them where exactly they hooked the "jumper" up and let me know, I can do a desktop analysis and probably point you pretty close to where the problem is.
 
Glove box motor.....? Really? Where and or what is that located..?

I always thought the left side glove box was spring loaded, electric release ...
 
Glove box motor.....? Really? Where and or what is that located..?

I always thought the left side glove box was spring loaded, electric release ...

It's a solenoid, not a motor, that unlocks the glove box latch when the key is on. If the battery voltage is low, it will make a clicking or buzzing noise.
 
Thank you all for your responses.

Fred,
Is deoxit like a flux cleaner? or any electronic cleaner cuz I have that, or is this something special?

I will need to find out where they hooked it up to, will ask the shop when they are open next which will be Tuesday.

why do you think the solenoid will be clicking in my case? cuz electricity is going to motor and to the solenoid and its not enough juice?
 
With what you and Fred are saying about the glove box solenoid (linear motor) and a bad gut feeling about this stealership, I would most definitely remove the existing battery from the system, clean the frame grounding points with sandpaper, then either go buy a new high quality battery, or you could jump it with a known good battery (car). If you jump it make sure to get a really good connection on the cables. Then if that doesn't work, then Fred would be the guy to help isolate the problem.
 
Thank you all for your responses.

Fred,
Is deoxit like a flux cleaner? or any electronic cleaner cuz I have that, or is this something special?

I will need to find out where they hooked it up to, will ask the shop when they are open next which will be Tuesday.

why do you think the solenoid will be clicking in my case? cuz electricity is going to motor and to the solenoid and its not enough juice?

1. Deoxit is a contact cleaner.

2. The clicking or buzzing solenoid indicates a either a low voltage or a low current condition at the solenoid. This could be caused by a number of things, like a poor ground connection or resistance in power or ground going to the solenoid. Their isn't enough juice to pull the solenoid all the way in against the spring, so it just buzzes or clicks rapidly.

The dealer stated the bike will start if provided direct power. I need to know where and how he applied "direct power" (both to and from) to get it to start. Once I know that I can look at the wire diagram and try to give you some suggested things to inspect.
 
There have been several threads about poor connection at chassis ground points that have caused wonky issues. It may not be the issue, but doesn't hurt to check the simple things first.
 
There's the ground block corrosion issue that Cliff discovered some time ago as well.
 
Happy Thanksgiving everyone. I just saw a wiring harness on ebay for a 2011 Concours and remembered reading this thread.

$54 for shipping ? when usps will ship that in a box for about $14 but I guess if you want it bad enough.
 
Yeah, robbery. Keep looking. That should be $20 or less for shipping.
Is the shipping box covered with 14K gold? Doubt it.
 
Thanks Fred.
Here are the notes the shop put down:
"Kawasaki Concourse 1400 diagnostic, does not start.
**Wire harness damaged caused by corrosion in multiple areas, bike will start if power is sent direct but will shut off as soon as direct power is disconnected** Bike needs junction box and wireharness."

By corrosion they said the wire just got rusted. When the ignition is on, and engine cut off switch is off, the ticking noise is gone. Once they turn on the engine switch, the ticking starts. They are saying that is the motor going to the glove box acting up. It seems they are implying somehow the wires there got connected.

Well I got the bike out of the shop, since it was not fully put back together they gave me 20% off so paid 3290 instead of 375.

I think I might want to try this myself, though it looks scary with the amount of wires coming out.
DId you ever get pics of the damage?
 
I'd bet if you looked at the OEM price of a new harness, that $71 would suddenly seem like a great deal, even with the high shipping costs.

But you better make sure it is from an ABS/TCS bike if you have ABS/TCS.


HARNESS,MAIN
26031-1098
$1,044.17
 
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