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Newbie .. choosing between two bikes.

K

kirk6296

Guest
Guest
Hello everyone! Super excited to be joining your community, and I'm on the precipice of a buying decision. I could use your informed opinion on how much I should factor in a 2008 vs a 2011. The '11 had twice the miles, and is slightly more expensive, but I understand it has several upgrades from 2008 model.

Thank you
 
Both great bikes. The 08 will not have linked brakes. The 11 will. Some found the linked brakes a little weird until the 15 came out when Momma K made an improvement.

The major change from Gen 1, the 8's and 09's to Gen 2 the 10 and newer is the fairing. Gen 1 had heat issues or some which was fixed with the Gen 2. I have a 09. I use insolated boots that keep my feet warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Also with the Gen 1's exposed skin on a leg particularly he right leg (for me) would get burned. Not enough to leave an injury but just dog gone uncomfortable. In the 10 or 11 years I've owned my 09, there has been one time I openly complained about the heat from the bike. This was when we did a joint rally between the NW and the SW areas. It was HOT out and the bike was running 3 bars on the temp rather than the normal 2 bars. If we ran into shade, the bike temp would drop to 2 bars. What is happening is the hot air from the radiator is not pushed out away from the riders legs like the Gen 2 is.

ABS is important to me. But with the 08, I would suggest changing the brake fluid every spring and exercise the ABS once in awhile on a dirt road. Both generations have great stopping power. I can't think of any other "problem areas. It comes down to dressing for heat or linked brakes IMHO. Gen 2's have traction control. Not something I feel is needed.

1. Be aware if the bike is running good and life is good, you had better look at the speedometer. 2. Mileage is not a big deal with either generation. 3. If the gen 1 has the original tire pressure sensor (the valve stem and base is completely round) the battery in the sensor is easily replaced. If it has the later sensor (has visible flats for a wrench) the battery is not so easily replaced because the battery is potted. Tire sensors are expensive to replace although they last at least 5 years but require shop time with the bikes computer. Some find the TPS is not that big of deal. For me I monitor the TP and the system has saved me from a totally flat tire by warning me air in a tire was getting low. I was able to get air and make it home with out being stuck.

Me personally, either would be a good choice. It would depend on which color for me. Good luck with your decision. Tim
 
Tim R said:
Both great bikes. The 08 will not have linked brakes. The 11 will. Some found the linked brakes a little weird until the 15 came out when Momma K made an improvement.

The major change from Gen 1, the 8's and 09's to Gen 2 the 10 and newer is the fairing. Gen 1 had heat issues or some which was fixed with the Gen 2. I have a 09. I use insolated boots that keep my feet warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Also with the Gen 1's exposed skin on a leg particularly he right leg (for me) would get burned. Not enough to leave an injury but just dog gone uncomfortable. In the 10 or 11 years I've owned my 09, there has been one time I openly complained about the heat from the bike. This was when we did a joint rally between the NW and the SW areas. It was HOT out and the bike was running 3 bars on the temp rather than the normal 2 bars. If we ran into shade, the bike temp would drop to 2 bars. What is happening is the hot air from the radiator is not pushed out away from the riders legs like the Gen 2 is.

ABS is important to me. But with the 08, I would suggest changing the brake fluid every spring and exercise the ABS once in awhile on a dirt road. Both generations have great stopping power. I can't think of any other "problem areas. It comes down to dressing for heat or linked brakes IMHO. Gen 2's have traction control. Not something I feel is needed.

1. Be aware if the bike is running good and life is good, you had better look at the speedometer. 2. Mileage is not a big deal with either generation. 3. If the gen 1 has the original tire pressure sensor (the valve stem and base is completely round) the battery in the sensor is easily replaced. If it has the later sensor (has visible flats for a wrench) the battery is not so easily replaced because the battery is potted. Tire sensors are expensive to replace although they last at least 5 years but require shop time with the bikes computer. Some find the TPS is not that big of deal. For me I monitor the TP and the system has saved me from a totally flat tire by warning me air in a tire was getting low. I was able to get air and make it home with out being stuck.

Me personally, either would be a good choice. It would depend on which color for me. Good luck with your decision. Tim
Click to expand...
Thanks for the great information
 
Bud said:
If you'll give us all the details about each and what they want for them, it will help us help you. We're more than happy to assist you in your effort to spend money. :)
Click to expand...
I don't have much details on the 2011 other than mileage. No service record, and very little from the dealership. Bike looks like it's been down, so I'm likely going with the 2008. Thank you
 
I intend to trailer this bike. Any advice on best practices for trailering a Concours? From what I read, for other bikes, the straps go down around the front forks, but the Concours doesn't have much access down there.
 
From the years and mileage, I'm guessing you'll be getting an attractive price on either of them.

Suggest consider where you live vs. the excess heat issue with the 2008. For me, if I lived in the midwest or south of the extended Virgina/N Carolina border or were even slightly above average weight I'd lean to the bike that dissipates less heat to the rider (2011) ... it would be a comfort choice.
 
Tim R said:
But but but the Gen !'s are faster..... ;)
Click to expand...
Want to race for registrations ? The flash removes the limiter (y)


And after ten years someone please inform me about these linked braking problems?

Still don't understand this fairy tale, do you believe in Santa ?
 
....and u didnt mentiin the price, cuz theres quiet a few nice out there for sale 2010 and newer. With less miles than 72k . Me and my stubby legs don't like lots of heat cooking them, so i went with a 2010 a few years back. If i were in the market for a 'new' used model id be looking 2015 and newer ..
 
Don't worry about the heat, "issue." I have ridden my 2009 in all types of climates and have not had a problem. I don't even notice it. Had people not complained about it, I would not know it was an issue. YMMV Wear proper riding boots, you will never feel the heat. Wear thin tennis shoes, then yeah, you may be annoyed.
 
Konehead34 said:
....and u didnt mentiin the price, cuz theres quiet a few nice out there for sale 2010 and newer. With less miles than 72k . Me and my stubby legs don't like lots of heat cooking them, so i went with a 2010 a few years back. If i were in the market for a 'new' used model id be looking 2015 and newer ..
Click to expand...
as soon as i reflashed, heat issues gone. i even took off the heat deflector/louver.
 
kirk6296 said:
I don't have much details on the 2011 other than mileage. No service record, and very little from the dealership. Bike looks like it's been down, so I'm likely going with the 2008. Thank you
Click to expand...
IMO the 2010 and up look better. The mirrors were moved up for better visibility on 2010 and up too.
ABS was standard on 2011 and up.

I agree with others that there are other bikes out there with less miles and have not been down. Some maybe even newer then a 2011!
I bought mine from a private party and had a very good outcome. Most dealership need to make money so probably going to pay more.
I hate to say it, but many dealers will tell you what they think will make a sale and it's not always the truth, keep that in mind. Whereas
most private party's will be pretty honest with you, especially if you know what to ask.

You didn't say what state you live in. But even in MI it can get pretty hot in the Summertime.

Good luck in whatever you decide on.
Please let us know when you've got wheels under you. :)
 
Here's my purchase .. hopefully it was a good deal.

Kawasaki Concours 14 ABS (2008)
odometer: 33550


Includes:

Kawasaki 39L Rear Trunk (top case) and adapter plate (K16160-0017; $200)
Murph’s Handlebar Risers (KB-107; $92)
Murph’s Front Fender Extender (MU-160; $30)
Murph’s Brake & Clutch Speed Bleeders (C14-SBKT; $37)
Murph’s Phillips Vision+ 130 Extreme H4 Headlight Bulbs (PH-101; $39)
Murph’s K&N Air Filter (KN-1406; $70)
Murph’s “Bearinged Up” Shifter Kit (MU-181; $21)
Projekt D Passenger Footpeg Lowering Kit (115-01; $80)
Helmet Guardian License Plate Bracket Dual Helmet Lock (STA-HG-B: $52)
7 Jurok Oversized (20” Wide x 26” Tall) Windshield (KAW01001; $215)
Vista Cruise Throttle Lock (MCVICO-P; $25)
Progrip 505 Series Carbon Style Tank Protector (5005Carb; $11)
Nelson-Rigg Defender Half Cover (UV-2000-XL; $40)
Recent install of EBC Double-H Front Brake Pads (FA417/4HH; $58)
Spare set of Emgo Sintered rear brake pads (91-81334; $15)
Ebay version OEM Repair Manual ($70)
Fred Harmon C14 Maintenance DVD Set ($80)

Turn signal reminder beeper also installed.

Tour Master 15L(?) expandable (strap-mounted) tankbag installed if you want it.

Have both KIPASS fobs and the Owner’s Manual.

Recent valve adjustment and throttle body synchronization – I added vacuum lines to the throttle body test ports at cylinders 2 & 3 for easier connection of the “carb stix".

Tire pressure sensor batteries changed 1 yr. ago, also have a spare “old style” TPS sensor that allow the battery to be replaced.

Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires installed: Rear has approx. 25% left, Front about 40% left.

Oil (5 yrs. of Amsoil), coolant, brake fluid & rear gear oil recently changed – lost access to special tool to disassemble fork tubes to change fork oil, that was changed 5K ago.

Price: $4.650
 
I think that's a fair deal with those upgrades and I would bet the valves were actually adjusted ($800+ deal) since the vacuum lines were added. Do yourself a favor and have Steve flash it and I think you are good to go for many miles. Welcome!!
 
kirk6296 said:
I intend to trailer this bike. Any advice on best practices for trailering a Concours? From what I read, for other bikes, the straps go down around the front forks, but the Concours doesn't have much access down there.
Click to expand...
Congrats on the purchase! Another alternative for tie down...I use Tank Straps to load in my toy hauler. Rock solid stability, no suspension compression, no extra parts to bolt on to the bike. I use these with a freestanding wheel chock on the front, but technically even that isn't necessary.
 
C 14 said:
Don't worry about the heat, "issue." I have ridden my 2009 in all types of climates and have not had a problem. I don't even notice it. Had people not complained about it, I would not know it was an issue. YMMV Wear proper riding boots, you will never feel the heat. Wear thin tennis shoes, then yeah, you may be annoyed.
Click to expand...

I agree completely, I've never noticed a heat issue. Anything above 95* is just hot period no matter what, I crossed Death Valley & it was a 121*. Any though of engine heat was non existent.

Gen 1 is by far the best looking, even though I'll probably end up replacing mine with a later model. This is simply due to age & miles I put on.

Enjoy which ever you get!
 
Congratulations on the bike! I have an 08 also and love it. Just turned 139K on it! The heat never bothered me either and I live in Southern California. Enjoy the heck out of it and come visit us in the Southwest!
 
2andblue said:
That would be an epic trip / no dice in May - implementations at work. Possibly this late summer!!!
Click to expand...
I am SO glad I don't have that problem anymore. There has been a invasion of some rather questionable S/W dudes coming to the Bun Cooler on a pretty regular basis's. All kidding aside I think everyone has a great time.
 
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Houston, we have a problem...

well, disaster struck yesterday when consummating the transaction for the 08’. I brought a U-Haul motorcycle trailer to transport back to my neck of the woods. As seller is riding bike up ramp, there was not quite enough clearance to get over the elbow of the trailer at the top of the ramp, and the bottom of the bike contacted the trailer. As the bike moved up it scraped along and the oil plug was ripped off. Suddenly oil is everywhere and the broken plug laying there!

Seller and I see this, and the only person more shocked and mortified than me is the seller.

after a few choice words (by seller) and cleanup, and the transaction now in serious jeopardy, seller, who’s a professional mechanic, says he will get in on a lift and assess the damage, but I’d be going home empty handed. It was a multi hour drive for me to get there, so my heart has now descended to somewhere around my ankles as I watch this all slipping away.

Assuming this is fixable (seller thinks it’s just a new oil pan part replacement), new plan will be for seller to ride bike to me in coming days/weeks. Truly hoping and praying that’s the case as I really want this bike, and was oh so close.
 
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kirk6296 said:
It was a multi hour drive for me to get there, so my heart has now descended to somewhere around my ankles
Click to expand...
Hang in there - seller sounds like a standup dude and working the solve.

Callout to the greater COMMUNITY:
Is the updated replacement oil pan for later models a perfect fit for this older model.

Kirk I believe the later model pan will bolt right up and has the benefit of the drain plug oriented horizontal to prevent these mishaps. Hopefully someone in group with experience here can advise if I am correct then you can give the seller a shoutout to use the updated later model pan - if applicable...
 
I would suggest using the parts diagrams and comparing, both visually and by part number. For simplicity, compare the '08 and the '10. My bike is a '10 and has the relocated (horizontal) drain plug. First year for that according to Fred's video.

Well, I decided to take a look myself. As far as I can tell, both pans have the same gasket, bolt patterns, and other details. Slightly different part numbers, as expected with the relocated drain plug. However, there are two brackets, bolted on either side of the pan, that are different, '08 vs. '10. On the diagrams, it says "Reference Cowling" and for the '08, it's "Lower." For the '10 it's "Center." And since the heat issues were addressed with cowling changes, this makes sense. My assumption would be that the '08 brackets would bolt right onto the '10 oil pan, as it's a lot easier and cheaper to fabricate a couple of new brackets than to mess with moving the oil pan bracket bosses. That's how it appears to me on the two diagrams.

Please be aware this is just my visual comparison. I don't have both oil pans in hand. Frankly, with my luck, I'd order a 2010 pan, wait for it, and then find out one hole is now 0.5 inch off. I highly doubt there are very many Kaw parts counters that could say unequivocally that the two pans are interchangeable. So buyer beware.

And yes, hang in there, I have a feeling everything will work out in your favor. Nobody's luck is as bad as mine!
 
Wish you the best of luck. Sounds like the seller will take care of you. He could have said have a good day and took your money and left.

When I went to pick up my 05 c-10 the P/O had backed off his trailer and contacted the optional spin on oil filter. I got a free oil change in the Walmart parking lot while he waited for me to arrive. My ramp has a hump to it to prevent high centering at the top of the ramp.
 
2andblue said:
Hang in there - seller sounds like a standup dude and working the solve.

Callout to the greater COMMUNITY:
Is the updated replacement oil pan for later models a perfect fit for this older model.

Kirk I believe the later model pan will bolt right up and has the benefit of the drain plug oriented horizontal to prevent these mishaps. Hopefully someone in group with experience here can advise if I am correct then you can give the seller a shoutout to use the updated later model pan - if applicable...
Click to expand...
Yes, he seems to be a straight shooter
 
Jpd11958 said:
Wish you the best of luck. Sounds like the seller will take care of you. He could have said have a good day and took your money and left.

When I went to pick up my 05 c-10 the P/O had backed off his trailer and contacted the optional spin on oil filter. I got a free oil change in the Walmart parking lot while he waited for me to arrive. My ramp has a hump to it to prevent high centering at the top of the ramp.
Click to expand...
Well, it was him who did it, so I wouldn’t expect to be left high and dry like that, but it’s a moot point.
Silver lining it didn’t happen when I got home.
 
TRM-KS said:
I would suggest using the parts diagrams and comparing, both visually and by part number. For simplicity, compare the '08 and the '10. My bike is a '10 and has the relocated (horizontal) drain plug. First year for that according to Fred's video.

Well, I decided to take a look myself. As far as I can tell, both pans have the same gasket, bolt patterns, and other details. Slightly different part numbers, as expected with the relocated drain plug. However, there are two brackets, bolted on either side of the pan, that are different, '08 vs. '10. On the diagrams, it says "Reference Cowling" and for the '08, it's "Lower." For the '10 it's "Center." And since the heat issues were addressed with cowling changes, this makes sense. My assumption would be that the '08 brackets would bolt right onto the '10 oil pan, as it's a lot easier and cheaper to fabricate a couple of new brackets than to mess with moving the oil pan bracket bosses. That's how it appears to me on the two diagrams.

Please be aware this is just my visual comparison. I don't have both oil pans in hand. Frankly, with my luck, I'd order a 2010 pan, wait for it, and then find out one hole is now 0.5 inch off. I highly doubt there are very many Kaw parts counters that could say unequivocally that the two pans are interchangeable. So buyer beware.

And yes, hang in there, I have a feeling everything will work out in your favor. Nobody's luck is as bad as mine!
Click to expand...
Thanks for checking into that. I notified the seller of the part difference. Not sure yet how this will turn out. Stay tuned
 
On another topic, I was helmet shopping recently and trying some on. The full face helmets are very uncomfortable and push on my jaws quite hard. It would be a real distraction. Any thoughts on full face vs open face helmets? I’d prefer the open face but don’t want to compromise safety if that’s not recommended
 
I had the same thing happen to me a couple of months ago during my move to the Ozarks using a uhaul trailer. I bought a replacement oil pan off Ebay ($85) It was for a 2008, yes I know I would have been better off to get the newer pan but there wasn't not available on Ebay at that time and they wanted $210 for a new one. So I decided to take my chances.
It was a lot of work to swap out the pan. I removed the plastic, unbolted the radiator and dropped the exhaust. I bought a new oil pan gasket ($25) even though some have reused them. I also replaced manifold gaskets.
All in all, It ended up costing around $130 and my time. I chalk it up to the lesson of hard knocks.
There is many things I will do differently when loading it on a trailer.
I know exactly how you felt, I know I said things and acted that are out of character for me. 🙄 And yes the oil sure did make a mess out of my driveway.
I hope it works out for you, if it doesn't there will be another nice c14 waiting for you.

Best wishes
Dale
 
As far as the helmet, try as many as you can on. You also might want to check out a modular helmet.
I like the full face helmet but I like the flexibility of the modular because I wear eyeglasses.
 
Pr356 said:
I had the same thing happen to me a couple of months ago during my move to the Ozarks using a uhaul trailer. I bought a replacement oil pan off Ebay ($85) It was for a 2008, yes I know I would have been better off to get the newer pan but there wasn't not available on Ebay at that time and they wanted $210 for a new one. So I decided to take my chances.
It was a lot of work to swap out the pan. I removed the plastic, unbolted the radiator and dropped the exhaust. I bought a new oil pan gasket ($25) even though some have reused them. I also replaced manifold gaskets.
All in all, It ended up costing around $130 and my time. I chalk it up to the lesson of hard knocks.
There is many things I will do differently when loading it on a trailer.
I know exactly how you felt, I know I said things and acted that are out of character for me. 🙄 And yes the oil sure did make a mess out of my driveway.
I hope it works out for you, if it doesn't there will be another nice c14 waiting for you.

Best wishes
Dale
Click to expand...
Thanks Dale. Hopefully someone can avoid what we went through by finding this thread
 
When I got back into bikes back in 2005, I knew a helmet would be in order. I have a big melon so not a single full-face helmet fit me, regardless of size or brand. Way too much pressure on my cheeks and forehead. So I went modular. I wore an HJC for five years before it took a tumble off a lifted Silverado's tailgate onto concrete. The shield was cracked and the shell scratched. I could probably have continued to wear it, but instead, I used it as an excuse to go shopping. Local HD/Kaw/Suz dealer carries Shoei, so I tried one on and liked it. Then the kid said "20% off if you buy before closing" so I pulled the trigger. A discount that big on an expensive Shoei was a good chunk of change, and far outdid anything I found online. That was six years ago and the Neotec is still lightweight, well ventilated, and quiet. And I love the retractable sun shield.

Lots of good helmets out there. Just my 2 cents...
 
Just bought my wife a new HJC i90 modular. Drop down sunvisor & installed a pinlock since the i90 comes with pinlock ready faceshield. It's also ECE rated. Revzilla/CycleGear price was $193. Went Revzilla cause I got it within 2 days.
I ride with an AGV Carbon SportModular. Great lid but $$$.
 
skiee said:
Just bought my wife a new HJC i90 modular. Drop down sunvisor & installed a pinlock since the i90 comes with pinlock ready faceshield. It's also ECE rated. Revzilla/CycleGear price was $193. Went Revzilla cause I got it within 2 days.
I ride with an AGV Carbon SportModular. Great lid but $$$.
Click to expand...
I love my i90 - good choice Skiee. If you put a Sena mount on it, be sure to avoid the visor cable when you mount it. I made that mistake but it snapped back in place once I disassembled the helment.

I have used Shoei and Bell for a few decades but they truly have lost their minds as of late. There is some pretty good competetion out there these days and when I bought my Connie last year I decided to try something different. Now I can afford more farkles for my bike.
 
I gave away my two HJC modular helmet's to my employees, they still don't wear a helmet...

3/4, full and modular Shoei's here.
 
kirk6296 said:
Houston, we have a problem...

well, disaster struck yesterday when consummating the transaction for the 08’. I brought a U-Haul motorcycle trailer to transport back to my neck of the woods. As seller is riding bike up ramp, there was not quite enough clearance to get over the elbow of the trailer at the top of the ramp, and the bottom of the bike contacted the trailer. As the bike moved up it scraped along and the oil plug was ripped off. Suddenly oil is everywhere and the broken plug laying there!

Seller and I see this, and the only person more shocked and mortified than me is the seller.

after a few choice words (by seller) and cleanup, and the transaction now in serious jeopardy, seller, who’s a professional mechanic, says he will get in on a lift and assess the damage, but I’d be going home empty handed. It was a multi hour drive for me to get there, so my heart has now descended to somewhere around my ankles as I watch this all slipping away.

Assuming this is fixable (seller thinks it’s just a new oil pan part replacement), new plan will be for seller to ride bike to me in coming days/weeks. Truly hoping and praying that’s the case as I really want this bike, and was oh so close.
Click to expand...

Others have installed the updated pan to 2008-09 C14s, and it is a simple swap.
 
If you find a helmet that fits well around your temple/top of your head, you have options for the cheek pads. If you contact the manufacturer of your desired helmet, they can tell you which of their pads are thinner. They should all fit within the same helmet model. Another option is to put the cheek pads between a couple of board with a heavy weight on top to compress them. I had to do this on my RPHA modular helmet when I bought it. I have a similar issue where cheek pads are generally "snug" and the forehead area tends to be loose. If you are more comfortable with the protection offered by a full face helmet I'd recommend not compromising.
 
Picked up the repaired bike today from seller, and after 4 days of training, made my first highway speed trip down Columbia River Gorge in perfect conditions. Loved every minute
 
Newb question .. for my '08 with a stock seat, my weight is forced forward into the gas tank, and this leads to some .. how should I say .. distraction around the groin area. Surely I'm not the first person to have dealt with this. Short of buying a 500 dollar replacement seat that's designed better, is there anything to be done to make this better? What are some strategies used by more experienced riders?

thanks
 
kirk6296 said:
Newb question .. for my '08 with a stock seat, my weight is forced forward into the gas tank, and this leads to some .. how should I say .. distraction around the groin area. Surely I'm not the first person to have dealt with this. Short of buying a 500 dollar replacement seat that's designed better, is there anything to be done to make this better? What are some strategies used by more experienced riders?

thanks
Click to expand...
Sounds weird, however, more frequent seat time does help or are least did so

Aftermarket windshield reduced the amount of pressure on me which then translates to less pressure on the rump.

Also there are mods such as an air hawk that works very well for some. My wife has the air hawk and loves it.

Others use sheep skin covers or even ive seen beaded seat covers.

Clothing - Absolutely no cotton. Absorbs moisture and gets skin raw.

Suspension setup proper reducing harshness.

Posture - make certain machine controls are set up for your reach, hands, etc.

All the above will contribute to how your day goes on the machine abs ultimately comes down to effecting your landing spot on the seat.
 
Kirk, (you didn't say) did he put another 2008 pan on the bike, or a later model?
The later model pan is the better fix as the drain plug is moved to a better location.

Everyone has their own preference on the seat. I had 1 built to suit my wants.
NOTE: I recently saw a Sergeant on the Forum for a decent price. Try to find that.
If you buy and don't like it, EZ to resale.

Cuda sed; {And after ten years someone please inform me about these linked braking problems?}
On my 2014, the linked brakes are too abrupt for my tastes.
ie; If I'm using the front and touch the rear, the braking force abruptly increases. (Not a smooth/proportional increase)
I'm sure that with time, I could adjust to that, but I just don't like the abruptness.
I solved the problem by "not" using the rear brake pedal and let the Link do what it is made for.
ie; When I use the front brake, the Brake Link smoothly applies all the rear brake I need.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: When you and I were at the Track Day in Florida, I rode the entire day without touching the rear brake.
On the track we braked hard at the end of some of the straights. My method worked fine.
 
connie_rider said:
Kirk, (you didn't say) did he put another 2008 pan on the bike, or a later model?
The later model pan is the better fix as the drain plug is moved to a better location.

Everyone has their own preference on the seat. I had 1 built to suit my wants.
NOTE: I recently saw a Sergeant on the Forum for a decent price. Try to find that.
If you buy and don't like it, EZ to resale.

Cuda sed; {And after ten years someone please inform me about these linked braking problems?}
On my 2014, the linked brakes are too abrupt for my tastes.
ie; If I'm using the front and touch the rear, the braking force abruptly increases. (Not a smooth/proportional increase)
I'm sure that with time, I could adjust to that, but I just don't like the abruptness.
I solved the problem by "not" using the rear brake pedal and let the Link do what it is made for.
ie; When I use the front brake, the Brake Link smoothly applies all the rear brake I need.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: When you and I were at the Track Day in Florida, I rode the entire day without touching the rear brake.
On the track we braked hard at the end of some of the straights. My method worked fine.
Click to expand...
Yep, he fixed it all up, although I believe he used the older pan model. I wasn't about to complain about it. Rode it last weekend about 75 miles at highway speed, and felt really good about it. Was a little anxious about how that would go, but as a returning rider, it was like riding a bike (as they say...),and was so easy. These bikes drive themselves, but I was definitely riding very cautiously.
 
EZ to check;
The drain plug on a 2008 is below the pan. On later models, the drain is on the front of the pan.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: While looking for a pan on Ebay (to show Kirk), I came across this.
I know that it's a 2008, but $45 is cheap for a pan.
www.ebay.com

08 KAWASAKI CONCOURS 14 ZG1400A ABS ENGINE MOTOR BOTTOM OIL PAN COVER | eBay

Removed From: 2008 Kawasaki Concours 14 ZG1400A ABS WITH UNKNOWN miles ITEM #10430. This oil pan is in good condition and shows normal signs of wear.
www.ebay.com
 
kirk6296 said:
Picked up the repaired bike today from seller, and after 4 days of training, made my first highway speed trip down Columbia River Gorge in perfect conditions. Loved every minute
Click to expand...

Sounds like good result for all your frustration. And hope you do post up a photo of your bike, your scenery or both. I live in TriCities, WA - so parts of Columbia River Gorge are not too far.

Cecil
 
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kirk6296 said:
.. if i can figure out how to upload a pic, I'll do so
Click to expand...

Don't worry, it may look intimidating but there's nothing to it. Create a free account on imgur, then upload your photos you'd like to share to the default folder there. Select the photo you want to share here. You'll know it's selected when the green checkmark appears in the top right corner of the thumbnail. From there you'll right click and copy link address to your machine's buffer. No stress so far.
https://imgur.com/WP7v8Hz

Then, in this text editor, you'll choose the 'Insert link' icon (two options to the left of the smiley face) from the options above the text field we type in. **HINT: the one you want looks like a number 8 tipped 45 degrees from top dead center.**
https://imgur.com/1oACNsu

Control-V to paste the link into the field in the popup and then click Insert.
https://imgur.com/au5MrFz

Easy peasy. I just did it now in fewer than 15 seconds. Hope it helps!

https://imgur.com/q1DrR4I
 
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