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Part Numbers for the C-14 Valve Adjustment

4bikes

4bikes

COG#9715 AAD
Member
There are few different threads listing the valve adjustment parts, but this one has the quantities and part numbers!  Here is a list of parts with part numbers that are recommended or required for the C-14 Valve adjustment job.  I also listed some of the specialty tools that are needed along with some other service items you might want to consider.

I’m getting ready for the second check, and decided to replace a few more parts this time around.  Please add anything I missed.

Note: Parts List edited 2-26-16 by suggestions below.

Valve Cover Associated Gaskets
Head Gasket Cover [Qty=1 Part #11061-0263]
Spark Plug Hole Gasket [Qty=4 GASKET,HEAD HOLE Part #11061-0977]
Rubber washers to improve Valve Cover tightness [Qty=7 RING-O Part #92055-0187]

Cam sensor O-ring Improved Replacement
[Send a personal message to Rich (Man off Blues) and he will send instructions and ship you two O-Rings]

Sub-frame Bolts that are recommended for replacement as one time use bolts
[Qty=5  BOLT,FLANGED,8X25 Part #92153-1768]
[Qty=2  BOLT,SOCKET,10X45  Part  #92153-1769] 
[Qty=4 BOLT,FLANGED,8X35part #92153-1770]

Coolant change assuming you removed and cleaned the radiator as part of the service
[Qty-1 Gallon Genuine Honda Parts OL999-9011 Blue Type 2 Coolant - 1 Gallon Bottle]

Bolts for Upper Radiator (Bolts are soft as cheese)
[Qty=2 BOLT-FLANGED-SMALL,8X30 Part #132BC0830]

Small upper  behind wind screen Fairing push Pin rivets (yeah, you will break or lose them)
[Qty=1 RIVET Item #92039-0051]

Exhaust Header Nuts (tighten to 13 ft lbs)
Replacement Exhaust Header Nuts – [Qty=8 McMaster-Carr 93795A230 M8.0 Oval Locknut.  Use with stainless steel washers.]

Spark Plugs ((0.031 ∼ 0.035 in.)
[Qty=4 NGK Spark Plugs CR9EIA-9; Spark Plugs #6289 (4 Pack) Made by NGK Spark Plugs (search Amazon.com)

[u]Replacement Fuel filter[/u]
Kawasaki Fuel pump filter :part # 49019-0013

Shims:
Size Inches MM Part #
-25 0.0689 1.750 92180-1212
-23 0.0699 1.775 92180-0221
-20 0.0709 1.800 92180-1211
-18 0.0719 1.825 92180-0222
-15 0.0728 1.850 92180-1210
-13 0.0738 1.875 92180-0223
-10 0.0748 1.900 92180-1209
-8   0.0758 1.925 92180-0224
-5   0.0768 1.950 92180-1208
-3   0.0778 1.975 92180-0225
0   0.0787 2.000 92025-1870
3   0.0797 2.025 92180-0209
5   0.0807 2.050 92025-1871
8   0.0817 2.075 92180-0210
10 0.0827 2.100 92025-1872
13 0.0837 2.125 92180-0211
15 0.0846 2.150 92025-1873
18 0.0856 2.175 92180-0212
20 0.0866 2.200 92025-1874
23 0.0876 2.225 92180-0213
25 0.0886 2.250 92025-1875
28 0.0896 2.275 92180-0214
30 0.0906 2.300 92025-1876
33 0.0915 2.325 92025-0215
35 0.0925 2.350 92025-1877
38 0.0935 2.375 92025-1058
40 0.0945 2.400 92025-1878
43 0.0955 2.425 92025-1982
45 0.0965 2.450 92025-1879
48 0.0974 2.475 92025-1983
50 0.0984 2.500 92025-1880
53 0.0994 2.525 92025-1984
55 0.1004 2.550 92025-1881
58 0.1014 2.575 92025-1985
60 0.1024 2.600 92025-1882
63 0.1033 2.625 92180-1059
65 0.1043 2.650 92025-1883
68 0.1053 2.675 92180-1194
70 0.1063 2.700 92025-1884
73 0.1073 2.725 92018-1195
75 0.1083 2.750 92025-1885

Specialty Tools you might need:
Inch Pound Torque wrench [GearWrench 85051 3/8-Inch Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench 25-250 in lb]

-Mechanical Micrometer: [McMaster-Carr Micrometer 0" to 1" range Product number 2114A41]

-Magnetic tool to lift the buckets: [KD Tools 18" Flexible Head Magnet Pickup Tool $13.69]

-Spark Plug wrench (not included in 2010-16 C-14 tool kits) [Qty=1 92110-1132 TOOL-WRENCH]

-Tools for Throttle Body Sync
1) Carb Sync Gauges (Manometer) search for: Carbmate or Morgan Carbtune II
2) Right angle JIS screwdriver https://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/fastening/48-32-2100
3) PM Wild_Bill for a Vacuum tube kit or use 3/16 vacuum hose/ fuel line hose

I looked them up and ordered, so thought I would share.  I hope this helps someone.










 
oil pipe o rings, 12 of them
670D1509 O RING,9MM     12 reqd

oh, and please, use micrometers, not caliper verniers for measuring... that number you gave was good tho, those mics are perfect, and accurate,

also, those side subframe bolts have 2 different sizes, and quantities , might recheck that...

92153 92153-1769 BOLT,SOCKET,10X45 2 reqd
92153A 92153-1770 BOLT,FLANGED,8X35 4reqd

92153B 92153-1768 BOLT,FLANGED,8X25 5 reqd
good job :great: :great:
 
Thanks MOB. I was hoping you would chime in since you have done this procedure before and helped others many times. I'll check those bolts and make an edit above. Those bolts ship with thread locker applied, which could be the reason why they call them out as replacements.

I should add that I know these parts can be order from:
http://www.ronayers.com and http://partzilla.com

Does anybody else have a better source for parts, other than the dealer?



 
I'm working on a "all parts in a bucket" kit for this...but we are a few weeks out..

murph
 
4Bikes said:
I should add that I know these parts can be order from:
http://www.ronayers.com and http://partzilla.com
Does anybody else have a better source for parts, other than the dealer?
Click to expand...

http://www.bikepandit.com
http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com

lots of others...  The trick for best pricing is to not tie yourself to one. Rather, check prices on each. Bikebandit may be higher on certain parts while Ron Ayers lower for the same parts. A month later that could be reversed. And it can be significant. So you have to do your homework.

Some offer discounts. Bikebandit offers 10% for AMA members.
 
Murph said:
I'm working on a "all parts in a bucket" kit for this...but we are a few weeks out..

murph
Click to expand...

Murph,
Great idea. Hopefully this thread helps you decide what to throw in that bucket. I could see a standard bucket if you only doing the valve adjustment, and then options if you plan to tackle other maintenace items while the plastic is off.
 
Gary and I were talking the other night about this, and I was gonna point him to this thread today, but he sniffed it out, so its all good...

I'm still searching for those damned half size shims for $1.50 each we were talking about last year, but can't find the link I had.... drat....
 
Murph,
Great idea. Hopefully this thread helps you decide what to throw in that bucket. I could see a standard bucket if you only doing the valve adjustment, and then options if you plan to tackle other maintenace items while the plastic is off.
Click to expand...

Exactly the plan.. All the wisdom and experience of the forum can lead to a lot of '''yeah,,,yeah...that's what I need, I didn't think of that! "  and I've always tried to be good on the price to make it worth the trouble of not shopping around..and..part of the profit goes to the Murphs Kits national Rally Ice Cream Social.. :D

murph
 
This is great stuff guys...thanks so much :great:!

Murph, I will definitely be looking into what you have when it comes time to do mine. I'm guessing I will be doing mine in April.
 
FYI, I edited the parts list and it now includes all of the Sub Frame bolts.  I corrected the name for the Micrometer.  Thanks MOB!

If anybody else has suggestions, let me know.  I did not include service items like the Air Filter and Brake and Clutch bleed since I took care of that during another maintenance cycle.  However, those are great maintenance items to tackle while the plastic is off. 
 
Great list, Steven. Thanks. I have two suggestions: the tool to measure vacuum between the cylinders at the throttle bodies and the 90 degree screwdriver to adjust the vacuum.
 
Bigfoot_16 said:
Great list, Steven. Thanks. I have two suggestions: the tool to measure vacuum between the cylinders at the throttle bodies and the 90 degree screwdriver to adjust the vacuum.
Click to expand...

I'll add them to the list as soon as others agree, or we get more suggestions. This is my take:

1) Carb Sync Gauges (Manometer) search for: Carbmate or Morgan Carbtune II
2) Right angle JIS screwdriver https://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/fastening/48-32-2100
3) PM Wild_Bill for a Vacuum tube kit or use 3/16 vacuum hose/ fuel line hose
 
 
Just in case anyone is inclined to replace the Cooling Hoses while the plastic is off.  Here are the part numbers and prices for that service. 

-HOSE-COOLING,CYL.HEAD-RAD. #39062-0306 $51.79
-HOSE-COOLING,RAD-W/P #39062-0113 $26.89
-SPRING-TUBE GUARD #49124-0003 $33.77
-HOSE-COOLING,W/P-CYL.HEAD #39062-0114 $31.36
-HOSE-COOLING,4X10X490 #39062-0170 $4.16
-HOSE-COOLING,L=797 #39062-0218 $7.99
-HOSE-COOLING,CYL.HEAD-RAD. #39062-0306 $51.79
-HOSE-COOLING,AIR VENT #39062-0325 $7.02
-Radiator cap-CAP-ASSY-PRESSURE #49085-1066 $31.75
 
Seriously, how big a job is adjusting the valves and replacing the plugs?  If someone who doesn't know the difference between a left and right handed phillips screwdriver is a 1, and Arlen Ness and Lingenfelder are a 10, I guess I'm about a 4.  :sign0103:  I got all the 15K service items done including replacing all the coolant hoses and installing a McCruise Cruise Control in my man cave except these two items, so would like to complete the 15K service list without bringing it to a questionable service dude who's skills I know nothing about.  :-\
 
How do you guys buy the shims needed. Do you disassemble measure, then order needed ones? Or order a bunch pre-measurement, are they that cheap?

That would make the adjustment a couple day endeavor if you measure and then order. Does local bike shops carry these shims? If not it might be worth it to the cog nation if you start collecting the replaced shims and make a kit that could be sent around to members when they do a valve adjustment for replacement/replenishment. Or if Murph makes this part of his bucket of parts and charged deposit of all the shims then refunded all but the used/non replaced shims on return. That would be a logistic nightmare for Murph to manage and a possible bottleneck.
Just a thought so this happens before I get a C14 :motonoises:
 
Bob,
Shim trading between members was discussed in this massive thread about the valve adjustment procedures.  Start looking at post #98.  This thread is actually quite good and has a lot of useful information.  I think a moderator should clean out some of the junk and make it a sticky.  I say junk, because it regressed at one point into talk about flaming and lawyers since there was disagreement about the need to even adjust the valves.  :-[

http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=48675.0
 
The jury is out as to whether or not adding shim washers is a good idea on the valve cover bolts.  The theory is that the shim washers will apply slightly more pressure since the valve cover bolts have shoulders that bottom out.  If you want to try this, here are the two sizes of .2mm thick that seem to work. 

They can be found at McMaster Carr

1) 1 Pack    98089A263 Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Shim 0.2mm Thick, 14mm ID, 20mm OD, Packs of 25   
2) 1 Pack    98089A255 Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Shim 0.2mm Thick, 10mm ID, 16mm OD, Packs of 25
 
WingCon said:
Seriously, how big a job is adjusting the valves and replacing the plugs?  If someone who doesn't know the difference between a left and right handed phillips screwdriver is a 1, and Arlen Ness and Lingenfelder are a 10, I guess I'm about a 4.  :sign0103:  I got all the 15K service items done including replacing all the coolant hoses and installing a McCruise Cruise Control in my man cave except these two items, so would like to complete the 15K service list without bringing it to a questionable service dude who's skills I know nothing about.  :-\
Click to expand...
WC - On your scale, I'm probably a 5 or 6 (at most) - and I am wrapping up my valve job now on my '11.  Once the plastics are off, there's a good bit of other miscellaneous that needs to be removed / relocated in order to get a clear shot at the valve cover.  In my case - with the intention of flushing / replacing the coolant, I just pulled the radiator as well.  This provided me with much greater access.
I must put in a plug for Fred's videos - as they make the entire process nearly fool-proof (and I can be quite the fool at times).
Hope that helps.  I'm sure if you did all the rest - then plugs and valves would be a walk for you.
 
notsluggo said:
WingCon said:
Seriously, how big a job is adjusting the valves and replacing the plugs?  If someone who doesn't know the difference between a left and right handed phillips screwdriver is a 1, and Arlen Ness and Lingenfelder are a 10, I guess I'm about a 4.  :sign0103:  I got all the 15K service items done including replacing all the coolant hoses and installing a McCruise Cruise Control in my man cave except these two items, so would like to complete the 15K service list without bringing it to a questionable service dude who's skills I know nothing about.  :-\
Click to expand...
WC - On your scale, I'm probably a 5 or 6 (at most) - and I am wrapping up my valve job now on my '11.  Once the plastics are off, there's a good bit of other miscellaneous that needs to be removed / relocated in order to get a clear shot at the valve cover.  In my case - with the intention of flushing / replacing the coolant, I just pulled the radiator as well.  This provided me with much greater access.
I must put in a plug for Fred's videos - as they make the entire process nearly fool-proof (and I can be quite the fool at times).
Hope that helps.  I'm sure if you did all the rest - then plugs and valves would be a walk for you.
Click to expand...

Thanks! ;D
 
For what it's worth, here are the two tags attached to the C-14 frame that you can only see when she is naked.  It has some useful information.

infoplate1.jpg


This one includes the VIN number that I blanked out:

infoplate2.jpg


 
4Bikes, what is used for clutch fluid in our bike? I know BMW uses mineral oil...what are we using? Is the clutch fluid something that needs to be replaced during the major services?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Mike,
The Service manual calls for a Dot 4 fluid.  I used the Valvoline synthetic DOT 4.  I think they call for the change every two years in the periodic maintenance section.  Bleeding the clutch is a LOT easier with the lower fairing removed and rubber heat shroud removed.  The theory is to tackle as many maintance items with the plastic off as possible.  The brakes can be bled anytime. 
 
Thanks!

Also, I was advised to purchase a "Timing Chain Tensioner". What about a "Timing Chain Guide"...is that something that needs replacing on our bike?
 
mattchewn said:
Mike,
The guides aren't usually needed much before about 100k.
Matt
Click to expand...

Thanks Matt!

Also, what's your take on using a manual cam chain tensioner? Is it needed or recommended?
 
Mike,
The factory units work pretty well. If you are the really "retentive" type then maybe consider a manual tensioner. I have 22K on my stock unit, occasionally it makes a noise for a sec or two on startup. Nothing that I am concerned about at this point in time.
Matt

Manual tensioners MUST be adjusted properly or they can/will cause very rapid chain/guide wear. If you aren't 100% confident you are getting it perfect stay with the stock unit.
 
mattchewn said:
Mike,
The factory units work pretty well. If you are the really "retentive" type then maybe consider a manual tensioner. I have 22K on my stock unit, occasionally it makes a noise for a sec or two on startup. Nothing that I am concerned about at this point in time.
Matt

Manual tensioners MUST be adjusted properly or they can/will cause very rapid chain/guide wear. If you aren't 100% confident you are getting it perfect stay with the stock unit.
Click to expand...

Is that "rattling" noise I hear at startup due to the chain? It doesn't last very long but it definitely rattles! I've always heard that and was wondering what that was!
 
Manual tensioners MUST be adjusted properly or they can/will cause very rapid chain/guide wear. If you aren't 100% confident you are getting it perfect stay with the stock unit
Click to expand...

What Matt said..
Heavy on the "MUST"..and I believe most folks "retentive" have a tendency to squeeze em' a bit too hard..

murph 
 
Murph said:
Manual tensioners MUST be adjusted properly or they can/will cause very rapid chain/guide wear. If you aren't 100% confident you are getting it perfect stay with the stock unit
Click to expand...

What Matt said..
Heavy on the "MUST"..and I believe most folks "retentive" have a tendency to squeeze em' a bit too hard..

murph
Click to expand...

Well, mine rattles on startup and always has so I'm not going to worry about it!
 
4Bikes said:
There are few different threads listing the valve adjustment parts, but this one has the quantities and part numbers!  Here is a list of parts with part numbers that are recommended or required for the C-14 Valve adjustment job.  I also listed some of the specialty tools that are needed along with some other service items you might want to consider.

I’m getting ready for the second check, and decided to replace a few more parts this time around.  Please add anything I missed.

Note: Parts List edited 2-26-16 by suggestions below.

Valve Cover Associated Gaskets
Head Gasket Cover [Qty=1 Part #11061-0263]
Spark Plug Hole Gasket [Qty=4 GASKET,HEAD HOLE Part #11061-0977]
Rubber washers to improve Valve Cover tightness [Qty=7 RING-O Part #92055-0187]

Cam sensor O-ring Improved Replacement
[Send a personal message to Rich (Man off Blues) and he will send instructions and ship you two O-Rings]

Sub-frame Bolts that are recommended for replacement as one time use bolts
[Qty=5  BOLT,FLANGED,8X25 Part #92153-1768]
[Qty=2  BOLT,SOCKET,10X45  Part  #92153-1769] 
[Qty=4 BOLT,FLANGED,8X35part #92153-1770]

Coolant change assuming you removed and cleaned the radiator as part of the service
[Qty-1 Gallon Genuine Honda Parts OL999-9011 Blue Type 2 Coolant - 1 Gallon Bottle]

Bolts for Upper Radiator (Bolts are soft as cheese)
[Qty=2 BOLT-FLANGED-SMALL,8X30 Part #132BC0830]

Small upper  behind wind screen Fairing push Pin rivets (yeah, you will break or lose them)
[Qty=1 RIVET Item #92039-0051]

Exhaust Header Nuts (tighten to 13 ft lbs)
Replacement Exhaust Header Nuts – [Qty=8 McMaster-Carr 93795A230 M8.0 Oval Locknut.  Use with stainless steel washers.]

Spark Plugs ((0.031 ∼ 0.035 in.)
[Qty=4 NGK Spark Plugs CR9EIA-9; Spark Plugs #6289 (4 Pack) Made by NGK Spark Plugs (search Amazon.com)

[u]Replacement Fuel filter[/u]
Kawasaki Fuel pump filter :part # 49019-0013
Click to expand...

Is there a recommended place to order all of this?
 
Good thought. I helped a bit with developing that package and didn't hear much about it recently. If it's offered it will be the bomb. It will be a kit.  :great:
 
4Bikes said:
Good thought. I helped a bit with developing that package and didn't hear much about it recently. If it's offered it will be the bomb. It will be a kit.  :great:
Click to expand...

now that the cat's outta the bag so to speak, I want to thank you Steve, and all the others, for compiling and adding to the list  :great: :great:
it should be a great asset to do one stop shopping for all the tidbits that kill us on shipping, and multi sourcing....


:beerchug:
 
MAN OF BLUES said:
4Bikes said:
Good thought. I helped a bit with developing that package and didn't hear much about it recently. If it's offered it will be the bomb. It will be a kit.  :great:
Click to expand...

now that the cat's outta the bag so to speak, I want to thank you Steve, and all the others, for compiling and adding to the list  :great: :great:
it should be a great asset to do one stop shopping for all the tidbits that kill us on shipping, and multi sourcing....


:beerchug:
Click to expand...

What Website are you working on getting the kit made through???
What kind of price we talking? :) The cheaper the better! 
 
Murph said:
Most parts are do in this week...
murph
Click to expand...

Perfect timing Murph! I have the rest of my service coming up within the next month.

Over the weekend I completed the following; engine/shaft drive oil changes, new brake pads from Murph (my front pads were really low! :eek:), bled brakes/clutch, removed rear wheel (SO EASY!) and lubed the splines, replaced air filter with K&N and greased pivots for brake and clutch handle which were EXTREMELY dry BTW (thanks local Kawi shop for "lubing" those things ::)).

I was a little "intimidated" by the thought of removing the rear wheel and doing the service back there but after doing it I am realizing things aren't as bad as I imagined. I mean the rear wheel removal, lubricating and mounting was so ridiculously easy!

Was able to complete those service items and had fun doing it. Fred's videos are great...thanks Fred! I now have the valves, plugs and radiator service left to do and will do those in a few weeks. Other than tire changes the shop isn't touching my bike again!

Mike
 
Good deal Murph :great:  The pricing for the parts looks great, and the one stop shopping kit will save a bunch on shipping costs from multiple vendors.  Will you be planning to sell the shims at some point? 
 
4...
Its basically matching all the big dawgs but with free shipping. We will carry this kit as fat as folks want it...shims are a tuff one..
  Not sure how best to go about that.

murph
 
4,
For a small business to try to stock and sell the shims for the connie is lunacy. there are far too many possible shim sizes that are regularly used and the cost per unit is far to high to be able to keep any serious number of them in stock at a given time. Now me, being me, I went outing bought a dozen of the popular 1/4 sizes direct so I would have them and now I can use cheaper Hot Cams shims to fill in the holes if needed. So far I have not used any non- Kawi parts on my jobs and I have now built quite a stash of shims to work off of. The popular 1/4 sized shims cost me almost 12.00 each with shipping and I bought like 30 of them.
I'm ordering my gaskets from Murph now on.
Keep it simple!
Matt
 
Matt and Murph,
To clarify, I wasn't suggesting that the shims be sold as a kit. I was asking if Murph's can be a resource to sell the required shim sizes to complete the job. Murph offers fast and reliable service and shipping, so my guess is that if someone buys the valve adjustment kit, they will come back to buy the shims. Most of us will not do the job enough times to want or have a stash.
 
4,
I wasn't talking about a kit either. Each KAWI shim costs between 6.00 and 14.00. While you can use other brands for most of the job there are many times when the Kawi special sizes are needed. Far too much money for Murph to invest only to sell a couple at a time here and there. 
Matt
 
we discussed this many times, and its just nt logistically feasable to have the correct ones, in the correct amount, stockpiled.
Also doing "shim trades" creates even more of a nightmare, trying to keep up with who is getting what, and what they want to trade...

I'm with Matt also on the statement, that the OEM and Honda shims, are the only ones that come in the correct increments to really do the job correctly. This half size incements make the whole job easier, and much more productive.

unfortunatly, the best way to accomplish this is still to have a good couple dealers both Kaw and Honda, that will swap with you, I've never had an issue with them if I approach them correctly, and I always take a micrometer with me to measure their shim, and also to show them exactly what you are trading to them, makes it a much easier event for all parties...
I know one particular shim size was almost impossible to find when I did my first adjust, due to a natural disaster in Japan, and a lack of parts being onshore here at that time... I did luck out, but spent close to a week searching fo 2 shims.... and that was even after swapping buckets around to allow me to use shims of a size I could get.

I know 2 years ago an online parts house actually had bulk shims, in the exact increments needed, for like $2 each, but they have since gone to "Hot Cams" kits...
which are total bunk... bummer....
 
Hi all, I just completed the "15,000 mile" valve clearance check/adjustment and all is well so far. I had purchased my 08' in 2013 and it already had 28,000 miles on it. Not sure if the valve clearance check had been done before, but after putting it off, and now with 57,000miles decided I should get r done. The parts lists and numbers helped a good bit and the bits' and pieces of info of the job were very helpful from this forum. I did not watch the Fred Harmon Videos (although I still would like to), but did pull up the service manual I found off the internet.

As an Aircraft tech and knowing service requirements and maintenance is critical, and having done quite a few engine overhauls and engine builds for race cars and such, I felt confident I could do this. Will say that after 57,000 miles the wear I found was expected, and probably agree that 90% of the wear occurred during the first 15,000 miles and not the last 40,000. The bike ran fine before, (fellow riders had commented how quiet and smooth it ran) but understand that wear occurs and if adjustments are not made, certain exceedances will be detrimental to the engine and it's performance. Each valve bucket to cam was measured and found out of tolerance. Average intake clearance measured .003-.004" and each exhaust clearance was .005-.006.  Using the work sheet I found from one of the links provided here on the forum I logged each measurement and calculated with formula provided on worksheet a new list of shim thicknesses required for each valve bucket. By exchanging shims from various buckets it came down to six shims needed to purchase that were thinner than the shims left over.

I had purchased gaskets, seals  and hardware from the lists from Partzilla, fluids and filters from Amazon, and shims from hot cams kits for $2.00 a piece from local motorcycle performance parts dealer here in Orlando. After calculating shim sizes and receiving parts was able to re-assemble motor to final clearances of .007 for intake and .009 for exhaust.

Upon startup I noticed a couple of things. One was that the rattle which typically lasted for about 5 seconds was gone, and the engine seamed a little quicker to throttle response. Not sure why on either. Perhaps the timing chain tensioner was working better (a stuck or slow to extend condition), and perhaps the cams were now performing more in synch with closer/shorter travel movements for the throttle response.

Anyway I have only been able at this time test ride for about five miles, but will give a better feedback on performance later. Take care and safe riding.


 
Sounds like this job was a walk in the park for you given your experience. Great that it worked out for you, and thanks for sharing your results so that we have another point of reference.  :great:  I think this may be the first to have all 16 valves out of spec, but given the mileage and the fact that the owner was doing the measuring, not all that surprising.
 
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