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Putting on new front tire - super difficult

kyferez

Guest
Guest
Any tips on putting on the new front tire?

I have tire spoons, stand, etc. Getting the old tire off wasn't too hard, but putting on the new tire was the hardest thing I've done in about 10years. The first side went on without too much trouble, but the second side - OMG! It too 2 people and almost an hour to get the new rubber on!  :mad: And I'm no weakling - last summer I benched 325 pounds and today I came close to bending the spoons twice and had to use 2 in the place of one! I actually damaged the rubber a little in one spot at the bead and am worried I damaged it enough it will end up leaking.

I must have been doing something wrong - is there a technique, something, anything you can suggest other than telling me to take it to someone else to do it?

Thanks!
 
It was cold. Didn't think to warm it first. Thanks for the posts.

I'm fixing my TPS sensors too - just ordered the batteries off Mouser.
 
It's a technique thing.  Last summer, I was putting on the current tires and getting an incredible workout on the front tire.  Sweat pouring off me, etc.  Finally, I sat back and said to myself, "Go back to the basics".  I did and the tire was on in less than five minutes and far less effort.

The "secret" to either tire, is to get the bead down into the center of the rim.  That'll give you enough "slack" to slip the remaining portion on.  I'm almost 68 yrs old, and can change my tires with just some tire irons.


And as for heating the tire in the sun...Robertv...where did you find the sun?  Only once have I changed the tires in the last year and found it warm outside.  Seattle is not Texas.  :D

Chris
 
stuff 'em in the dryer, on HIGH HEAT... make sure momma ain't home tho...  :great:

my personal secret, never prior revealed.. until now.. just saying.. once you do it, you will thank me.. ...

but have the rim already prepared, and clean, then pull the tire, and mount it fast... I use alcohol as a lube... in more ways than you would think. :)) :)) :))
 
You *absolutely* need to make sure the bead of the tire is pressed down below the "drop zone" of the rim.  It is the only way you can mount it.  Since the bead cannot stretch, it is the only way geometrically the tire can be mounted. Once you understand this, it is pretty easy.  If you don't...you will never get it on.
 
  Another trick for heating the tire in the winter time is to put it next to the wood stove for awile. Makes things much easier.
 
rogracer said:
You *absolutely* need to make sure the bead of the tire is pressed down below the "drop zone" of the rim.  It is the only way you can mount it.  Since the bead cannot stretch, it is the only way geometrically the tire can be mounted. Once you understand this, it is pretty easy.  If you don't...you will never get it on.
This must have been part of my trouble. But the tire was so stiff it was very hard to get it to do this, and even when doing this it was hard to get the last bit of tire bead to pop over the wheel.
 
I use Windex for a lube.  I have seen the local independent MC shop owner use WD-40.  He doesn't use spoons, just his bare hands - he has very strong hands.
 
Even a stiff sidewall really shouldn't be that hard...you realize that it is only 180 degrees opposite where you are trying to seat the bead that  needs to be pushed down into the drop zone.
 
Travis-- Out of curiosity, what front tire did you put on? It shouldn't matter brand as the guys said its a bit of technique, windex or your version of lube plus some elbow grease.  :-\

Hey Chris, c'mon you know we only change tires late spring into summer!  :motonoises:
Besides we've had our fair share of warm days so far although those days are were far apart and in-between. We will be warm again sooner than you know it! Just you wait....  ;)
 
robertv, I put on a Metzeler Roadtec 01.  I'll go back to the Continental RoadAttack III's next time.

And yes, I use Windex for a tire lube.  My knees can't take the pressure of holding the tire bead down as I get the last third of the bead over the rim, so I started using knee pads from Harbor Freight.  No pain...and lots of gain.

It's handy being able to remove and mount your own tires.  I had to replace my TPMS sensor and was able to do the entire process in the garage and not depend on anyone else.

Chris
 
The Windex I have used because it does lubricate enough to get the tire mounted, then quickly evaporates. I have not heard of anyone using WD40 before, I would think that would not evaporate/dry? Any first hand experience with this?
 
I use the tire lube from No-Mar, it works well.
Also I got a wood clamp from harbor Fright to hold the tire
down so it falls into the center of the rim.
 
Tire is Dunlop Roadsmart II. Got the set for the C14 for $160 shipped :)

I used Ken-Tool 35847 Bead-Eze Tire Lube. It evaporates pretty fast, too fast IMO.

The clamp is a great idea, thanks! I'll try that on the rear.

This was my first tire change so I'm sure I'll get better. I just need some practice! I may buy the Mojolever though so I don't mar the rim in the future. It was impossible to use the rim protectors and spoons and not have the tire slide back off the rim, but again was likely poor technique. I'll give the rear a go before I decide if I want it.

I need to get better, I have 3 street bikes and 5 dirt bikes!

Thanks all!
 
Tundra said:
The Windex I have used because it does lubricate enough to get the tire mounted, then quickly evaporates. I have not heard of anyone using WD40 before, I would think that would not evaporate/dry? Any first hand experience with this?

It works just fine if sprayed into a paper towel and then rubbed along the bead. You can spray it but it ends up going places you’d prefer not to ever have it. We use it for Mx bikes all the time but not as much on street or track tires.
 
Last summer I was struggling with a rear tire and using little wood blocks to hold the tire in the center. I looked up and saw 2 Irwin bar clamps hanging on the wall and remember someone using one to hold the tire back to change sensors. I tried them and it saved the day. Another tool in the arsenal.


RWulf said:
I use the tire lube from No-Mar, it works well.
Also I got a wood clamp from harbor Fright to hold the tire
down so it falls into the center of the rim.
 
Cali Cruiser said:
Tundra said:
The Windex I have used because it does lubricate enough to get the tire mounted, then quickly evaporates. I have not heard of anyone using WD40 before, I would think that would not evaporate/dry? Any first hand experience with this?

It works just fine if sprayed into a paper towel and then rubbed along the bead. You can spray it but it ends up going places you’d prefer not to ever have it. We use it for Mx bikes all the time but not as much on street or track tires.
Thx Cali Cruiser
 
IMO, One of the many benefits of running Michelins is they are ten times more flexible than any other m/c tire out there. Ok, they are noticeably more flexible than any tire that I have mounted in the last 30 years.  If you do your own mounting, especially if you are using spoons/levers or even a NoMar, the difference is staggering. I used tire levers for a long time before getting my NoMar system about 15 years ago. Sunshine to warm any tire carcass is a must. I found Fiebing's Saddle soap glycerine spray is virtually identical to what I was getting from NoMar. I have found it for as little as $5 online. Warmed up in the sun and a shot of saddle soap Michelins are so much easier to mount than the stiff tires. Our OEM Bridgestones, in particular, are crazy stiff. Of course if your having a shop use a pneumatic tire machine they won't even notice a difference in the carcass. ..just a thought
 
Watched a vid on youtube of an older guy that used duct tape instead of zip ties.  It didn't look like he was working too hard to get the tire on.  Gonna have to try that one sometime.
 
connie_rider said:
I bought big Zipties to try that method.
Haven't tried them yet?

Works well?

Ride safe, Ted
The real Bud bought some of those monster zip ties to try that method.  For whatever reason, the zip ties wouldn't hold.  Maybe just the wrong kind of zip tie?
 
Kzz1king said:
The video says they are just used for removal. Are you using them to center the tire? I have been using these clamps. Helps


lather said:
A couple of these from No Mar are a great help.
https://www.nomartirechanger.com/XtraHand_Clamp_p/ac-eh-clamp.htm
Otherwise you need to put the full weight of your body on the bead opposite the last section you are working on using both knees.
I use them mostly for mounting the tire but sometimes I need to use then for dismounting as well. They help in getting the lower rim secured in the Nomar clamp blocks. To be honest I have never used them without the Nomar changer but I can't see why they would not be useful doing a manual change, especially if you have sore knees.  The Nomar came with an instructional DVD. Tha basic tire change vidio shows Steve using the extra hand to mount a tire.
 
The tape one was very interesting. He mentioned how the Michelins are much more flexible too. Sure made it look easy. I would not like that much soap om a high horsepower rear wheel or for that matter a front. I might try a modified method by using zipties if I have trouble keeping the beads in the center.




connie_rider said:
Couple of video's.
Note the cheap bead breaker...
2nd video, uses the tape method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=civ_pBrExA0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr0ZIp1iXoc

NOTE: Per Cliff, I built a wooden frame to support the tire at the rim, protect the rotors, and protect the paint from scratching.

Ride safe, Ted
 
I just did my front and it was a pita. I discovered a technique for the second bead while doing it (since nothing else was working and I started bending the tip on my mojo-lever). Use the rim protectors with rope attached so they don't fall in. I realized I had to do it just a little a time using a spoon at the rim protector. After pushing the spoon and getting the next little part of the tire over the rim, stick a block in behind to hold it there and not lose the little bit you just gained and pull the spoon out. Now typically getting the rim protector out of there is a bear but since I had the nylon tip off my mojo-lever I used that tip as a chisel and with a hammer, slid the rim protector over to the next section of tire bead that was not on yet, essentially to get it out of the pinch point. It was a little slow but methodically gets you there without using extreme force. Doing a small piece of tire bead at a time reduces the force necessary. This includes using all the aforementioned techniques (soapy water, putting the opposite bead in the deep part of the rim, etc). After realizing that worked OK I ordered some nylon rod off amazon to use as the nylon chisel.

I found a guy on youtube that did something really clever. He bought the nylon "duckhead tire mount head" that is used on commercial machines and attached it to the end of a bar. Spares are available since they wear out. Google those words and several vendors will come up that sell them at about $25-35 each. His demonstration made it look very easy. I'm going to give that a try next time too using it with the HF stand. Look for his video also.
 
PeteTN_zgtr said:
I just did my front and it was a pita. I discovered a technique for the second bead while doing it (since nothing else was working and I started bending the tip on my mojo-lever). Use the rim protectors with rope attached so they don't fall in. I realized I had to do it just a little a time using a spoon at the rim protector. After pushing the spoon and getting the next little part of the tire over the rim, stick a block in behind to hold it there and not lose the little bit you just gained and pull the spoon out. Now typically getting the rim protector out of there is a bear but since I had the nylon tip off my mojo-lever I used that tip as a chisel and with a hammer, slid the rim protector over to the next section of tire bead that was not on yet, essentially to get it out of the pinch point. It was a little slow but methodically gets you there without using extreme force. Doing a small piece of tire bead at a time reduces the force necessary. This includes using all the aforementioned techniques (soapy water, putting the opposite bead in the deep part of the rim, etc). After realizing that worked OK I ordered some nylon rod off amazon to use as the nylon chisel.

Pete -
Out of curiosity, what Brand/Version tire was this??

I've got tools coming this week for my first ever attempt at changing my own.  Hoping i don't have similar issues.

Thanks,
gr
 
GR this was actually an Angel ST I found on Amazon. I liked this tire alot on another bike and was curious how it would be on the C14. I didn't warm it up either. Didn't think to do that since the rear wasn't that hard. But the front is stiffer.
 
Well.....mark me in the category of "the tire WON".  ::)

I'm clearly doing something wrong, as I cannot get the last bit of bead over the rim.

I got two motion pro levers, and they worked well to dismount the front (A-Spec Angel GT), but I need to check my technique for the remount.

And before anyone asks: Tire lube: Check.  Rim protectors: check.  Tire warmed in Sun: Check Check.

I'll confer offline with my peeps.

gr
 
Man I wonder what is wrong. Possibly accidentally get a MotoGp spec 16.5 tire? My Wicko manual changing station (HF copied it) and I have changed hundreds of tires in the 15 years I have had it. Hard touring tires on Harley's, car tires on Goldwing rims for darksiders, Forged Marchesinis, Blackstone CF rims, never a problem. I have always used Dawn soap in water and do not scrimp on the lube. Once it starts to dry it gets sticky and I have  done this at track days for bikes getting right back on the track  and never have had tire slip issues on bikes with 160+ HP.
 
It's all about getting the tire in the very center of the rim where it is recessed.  When the bead is in that recessed area, it gives more room to get the last bit over the rim.
 
Fortunately, I have a local m/c dealer that has put my tires on for $35-$40, even if I buy them elsewhere ... so I don't have to bother with this. Sure, if it were substantially higher in price, I'd likely be challenged to do it myself.

Hope you get it worked out soon!
 
Bud said:
It's all about getting the tire in the very center of the rim where it is recessed.  When the bead is in that recessed area, it gives more room to get the last bit over the rim.

Pretty sure it's THIS.
I have to go back and reassess my technique.

And LEMON PLEDGE???

I knew this was the THE secret for polishing plastic, but tire mounting as well?!?  Seriously??
Seems messy.....

gr
 
ghostrider990 said:
And LEMON PLEDGE???

I knew this was the THE secret for polishing plastic, but tire mounting as well?!?  Seriously??
Seems messy.....

Not at all... Been using it for over 15 years both on the street and the track. Got the tip from a fellow racer and have only used Pledge since. Just spray a thin coat on the outer edges of the tire and go. No mess.
 
RUFFSTUFF said:
ghostrider990 said:
And LEMON PLEDGE???

I knew this was the THE secret for polishing plastic, but tire mounting as well?!?  Seriously??
Seems messy.....

Not at all... Been using it for over 15 years both on the street and the track. Got the tip from a fellow racer and have only used Pledge since. Just spray a thin coat on the outer edges of the tire and go. No mess.

That's cool ! Good to know. I also did not know it's great for polishing plastic, but makes sense that it would be. Learn something new everyday. Thanks!
 
My tire is a Dunlop Roadsmart II 120-70r17, and just did a kenda K760 90/100r16 on a TTR125. I was able to get the Dunlop on with the spoons, but was really difficult. The Kenda I couldn't even. There is far less "center area" on that tire with the tube in it, so it just wasn't happening. However I got my mojo lever in today and Viola! Kenda tire went on no problem! Props to Mitch for getting it to me quick.
 
Whelp.....I tried the manual method, and lost.  :-[

No way in HELL i was busting the bead on that Rear A-Spec Pirelli Angel GT by hand, and I knew it could be problematic, hence why I made a contingency plan of going to Cycle Gear.

Next time around it may be a HF changer and MOJO bar for me.  :truce:

gr
 
ghostrider990 said:
Whelp.....I tried the manual method, and lost.  :-[

No way in HELL i was busting the bead on that Rear A-Spec Pirelli Angel GT by hand, and I knew it could be problematic, hence why I made a contingency plan of going to Cycle Gear.

Next time around it may be a HF changer and MOJO bar for me.  :truce:

gr
Wondering how you tried to break the bead?  I have to say I was reasonably impressed by just using one of those motion pro wedges that you hit with a hammer.
maxresdefault.jpg
 
Bud, do you have a link for where to find that blue tool?  I checked Motion Pro's website, and they don't show it.

Chris
 
I did some looking this morning.  All I could find said out of stock or discontinued.

Was it Cliff that made one that attached to an I beam in his garage?
 
ghostrider990 said:
Yep.
That's Cliffy with the MAN Breaker in his MAN  Pole Barn!

Mine are the Motion Pro Bead Breakers.  really handy little tools, I just couldn't bust that bead on the Rear ASpec Angel with them.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-beadpro-forged-steel-tire-bead-breaker?rrec=true
I use the same levers to swap out my tires.  Breaking the bead is not easy, but they work.  Patience.  A lot of Windex or other lube is helpful.  I found it helpful the last time to get the initial movement of the irons to separate the bead, then insert the lower iron in further, then while holding the tire irons together, spray more lube in the opening and hold it. 

Chris
 
ghostrider990 said:
Mine are the Motion Pro Bead Breakers.  really handy little tools, I just couldn't bust that bead on the Rear ASpec Angel with them.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-beadpro-forged-steel-tire-bead-breaker?rrec=true

Admittedly I've never used these, but just doesn't appear to be enough leverage there for a C14 tire IMO. Having installed over 40 sets of tires on my C14 & not counting others I've done. I got some experience & understand what it takes, but I would not want to use this set up myself. I'm sure they will work, just looks like a unnecessary battle to me.

Appear to be great for trailside repairs on a smaller off road bike though.

Just my throwing out my .02 worth.
 
FWIW, Cliff, I use it on 180/55-17 inch tires.  I think most of the C14s only use a 190.

Chris
 
Just Cliff said:
ghostrider990 said:
Mine are the Motion Pro Bead Breakers.  really handy little tools, I just couldn't bust that bead on the Rear ASpec Angel with them.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-beadpro-forged-steel-tire-bead-breaker?rrec=true

Admittedly I've never used these, but just doesn't appear to be enough leverage there for a C14 tire IMO. Having installed over 40 sets of tires on my C14 & not counting others I've done. I got some experience & understand what it takes, but I would not want to use this set up myself. I'm sure they will work, just looks like a unnecessary battle to me.

Appear to be great for trailside repairs on a smaller off road bike though.

Just my throwing out my .02 worth.

I think you hit it on the head, Cliffy.  :great:

gr
 
Daboo said:
I use the same levers to swap out my tires.  Breaking the bead is not easy, but they work.  Patience. 

Chris
Daboo said:
FWIW, Cliff, I use it on 180/55-17 inch tires.  I think most of the C14s only use a 190.

Chris
ghostrider990 said:
Just Cliff said:
ghostrider990 said:
Mine are the Motion Pro Bead Breakers.  really handy little tools, I just couldn't bust that bead on the Rear ASpec Angel with them.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-beadpro-forged-steel-tire-bead-breaker?rrec=true

Admittedly I've never used these, but just doesn't appear to be enough leverage there for a C14 tire IMO. Having installed over 40 sets of tires on my C14 & not counting others I've done. I got some experience & understand what it takes, but I would not want to use this set up myself. I'm sure they will work, just looks like a unnecessary battle to me.

Appear to be great for trailside repairs on a smaller off road bike though.

Just my throwing out my .02 worth.

I think you hit it on the head, Cliffy.  :great:

gr

I never doubted they want work, they just take a lot of extra & unnecessary work IMO. 16" of leverage to break a bead is not much. For someone like you Nate that is inexperienced & mounting their 1st tires I don't see it happening.  :)

Also Chris is using these on 55 series tires. I've only run 50 series, but I have mounted a few 55's for others. That little bit of sidewall heighth  makes a HUGE difference in sidewall flexibility.
 
Ouch Cliff, Very Ouch.  :nananana:

I don't have a cushy heated pole barn with a 5ft. long box-iron breaker bar at my disposal either.  :mad:

However.....I agree, I was a little overzealous in my haste to find an easier solution.
I've been nursing a bum shoulder for over a year now too, so that didn't help my cause.

My rear was a 55 series, but it was an A-Spec, so likely a bit stiffer than usual (that's what SHE said).

Back to the drawing board.  I cheated and took them to the shop, and although the guy who did the swap said the Pirelli wasn't too tough to break, he DID say the Dunlop SMIII WAS a bear to put back ON the rim.

YIKES!

 
BTW, I have the Mojolever and it does great getting tires off but the end for getting that 2nd bead over the rim is not the best design. Works OK for car tires with taller sidewalls and more flexibility. I'd get the No-Mar bar if I were buying another one.

Check out what AverageGuyAntics used in the video below. His bar can be made for a about $50-60.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SY2hxS2ygI0

 
ghostrider990 said:
Ouch Cliff, Very Ouch.  :nananana:
Back to the drawing board.  I cheated and took them to the shop, and although the guy who did the swap said the Pirelli wasn't too tough to break, he DID say the Dunlop SMIII WAS a bear to put back ON the rim.

YIKES!

I wasn't directing that at you in a bad way Nate.  Only that those levers could make it extra tuff for someone that has done it & has a technique down. For someone like you mounting they're 1st set, I can see as not doable.

Now I did just finish mounting my 1st set of RS 2's & was expecting the worst since several have told me they're hard to mount. They didn't seem any different/more difficult than any other tire I've mounted so that was good.

With that said I did spend 30 minutes on the front tire alone, because. I mounted it, put it on the balancing stand only to notice it was backwards, 1st time for that. So I removed & remounted it, back on the balancing stand only to see the dot was not inline with valve stem. Damn it! So I break down & remove 1 bead so I can spin it on the rim.

Smarta$$ wife walks down to the shop & says whats taking you so long? Cussed & told her I was getting some extra practice!  :mad:



 
That's ok Cliff. I'll be happy to help you practice mounting tires.
{Nice guy that I am} When I come up that way again, I'll bring some tires for you to put on my bike.

Ride safe, Ted
 
PeteTN_zgtr said:
BTW, I have the Mojolever and it does great getting tires off but the end for getting that 2nd bead over the rim is not the best design. Works OK for car tires with taller sidewalls and more flexibility. I'd get the No-Mar bar if I were buying another one.
The mojo works amazingly getting them on. I had zero trouble getting the bead to seat. Took under 5 min.
 
Just Cliff said:
ghostrider990 said:
Ouch Cliff, Very Ouch.  :nananana:
Back to the drawing board.  I cheated and took them to the shop, and although the guy who did the swap said the Pirelli wasn't too tough to break, he DID say the Dunlop SMIII WAS a bear to put back ON the rim.

YIKES!

I wasn't directing that at you in a bad way Nate.  Only that those levers could make it extra tuff for someone that has done it & has a technique down. For someone like you mounting they're 1st set, I can see as not doable.

Now I did just finish mounting my 1st set of RS 2's & was expecting the worst since several have told me they're hard to mount. They didn't seem any different/more difficult than any other tire I've mounted so that was good.

With that said I did spend 30 minutes on the front tire alone, because. I mounted it, put it on the balancing stand only to notice it was backwards, 1st time for that. So I removed & remounted it, back on the balancing stand only to see the dot was not inline with valve stem. Damn it! So I break down & remove 1 bead so I can spin it on the rim.

Smarta$$ wife walks down to the shop & says whats taking you so long? Cussed & told her I was getting some extra practice!  :mad:

I know you weren't Cliff.  You never throw shade at anyone, and I'd never do that back at you.  ;)

I reserve my ill-gotten remarks for those more deserving.  >:D

You know I'm a smartass, and I was being just that....as usual.  :truce:

N
 
Many must be using Michelin tires like me. Flexible and don't have the dots. For anyone using tires with dots, it's confusing because the internet is loaded with halfassed guesses. Here are a few details about the dots.

Pirelli 2019 Catalog:

".... Some PIRELLI tyres have a red dot on the side wall. This indicates the lightest point, and should be positioned next to the valve....."

Metzeler 2019 Catalog:

".... Some METZELER tyres have a red dot on the side wall. This indicates the lightest point, and should be positioned next to the valve...."


Dunlop (website) Care & Maintenance:

"...All Dunlop street tires should be installed with the balance dot at the valve. Wheels may be balanced with spoke nipple weights, lead wire or self-adhesive rim weights. Consult the motorcycle manufacturer for approved wheel weights...."





 
For sake of discussion; {Think about it}
  If you remove the tire, remove the weights, {leave everything else}, and check the balance on a static balancer;
          you will find that there is a heavy spot on the wheel.
            I don't know why, but that spot is not always at the valve stem.
  So, {if you know that heavy area} it's best to put the dot there...

Ride safe, Ted
 
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