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Question on removing wheels

timothyhebert7819171

timothyhebert7819171

Member
Member
I've searched the archives here the best I can as well as Youtube. I think I've found a simple way to remove both wheels one at a time, but what's a safe way to remove both? What I'm thinking is to get it up on the center stand with a 2x6 beneath the stand, secure the center stand somehow to the frame so it doesn't move. 1st. My plan was to use a small jack with a piece of wood under the engine, jack it up some, raise the front end and remove the front wheel. My thought was to put a thick moving blanket under the front forks and lower it down, then move onto the rear.
Anyone have any suggestions to improve this plan? My only past experience doing this was on my dual sport, and it was pretty easy using a motorcycle scissor lift centered under the bike to raise the entire bike off the ground. I doubt that jack can be centered well on this bike or handle the weight. It says it will handle 1500lbs, but I'd sure hate for the bike to fall.
 
I did what you are thinking but used jack stands for the front forks, I used a 2X6 under the center stand with a bolt attached to the front which I looped a length of rope around and attached it to the center stand so it won't fold up. BTW, it's gonna be a bit difficult to get that bike up on the stand with it on the board, put both wheels on the same level with 2 pieces of wood, stand it then remove the front piece, it's a dance as you want that rear tire hanging off over the end of the wood in the back so the tire clears the rear fender.
 
Place machine on center stand:
  1. Place 50+ pounds weight on the rear to lighten front end
  2. Put Jack-stand or equivalent under the rear shock arm leaving room to raise the front end
  3. Raise front end, block as desired
Note: You’ll want to break the nuts loose before raising otherwise get a little unstable.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
+1 on reinstalling the front axel and support it with a jack stand, also on securing the center stand in the down position. I recommend a screw type jack if you are going to be leaving it under the bike for an extended time. Hydraulic jacks can leak down.

The rear wheel can be hard to get out from under the fender and even harder to get back in with a new tire. Adding a 2 x under the center stand may help some. I remove the rear drive assembly to make extra room. Its only 4 nuts, just set it where the lube will not leak out of the vent hole. Lowering the front down with the front wheel remove too far will put a lot of load on your center stand strap holding it extended.
 
I modified a scissor jack out of a junk car so that two header pipes would support the weight since they are different levels. I remove the rear wheel first & then jack it up until the foot on the center stand (the one you push on) until it touches the floor. Then I remove the front wheel, no strapping, tying or anything. I've done this countless times & am never concerned with it falling. I have left it sitting for days like this. The front wheel will even come out at an angle without removing the fender.

Works for me!
 
I have a jack out of an old 80's Chevy van. They look like a bottle jack but are operated by a crank so it screws straight up. I remove the bottom fairing and jack on the engine between the pipes.

I like the idea of jacking until the center stand arm hits the ground. It gives you a stable stop and the weight of the bike is holding the stand in the deployed direction.

You can learn something new here almost every day.
 
Jpd11958 said:
I have a jack out of an old 80's Chevy van. They look like a bottle jack but are operated by a crank so it screws straight up. I remove the bottom fairing and jack on the engine between the pipes.

I like the idea of jacking until the center stand arm hits the ground. It gives you a stable stop and the weight of the bike is holding the stand in the deployed direction.

You can learn something new here almost every day.
Click to expand...
That's a great idea, I was wondering about where to use a jack on the front so this answers that.
 
Yeah +1 on hydraulics, I came out to the garage the morning after jacking the bike and it was about to fall forward from the jack under the belly pan leaking down. Yikes.

Some have cut down the rear fender to eliminate the need for raising the bike to get the tire out. In drier climates maybe but not Ohio. Just remember if you plan to use the board under the centerstand, make sure both feet of the stand are centered on the board and there is a board you can remove under the front tire before trying to put it on the stand. Oh, it can be done with a board under the front wheel, you will have to be a strong and agile person to do it, over the years I've have figured out how to do things easier.

BTW, some from the NE area may remember a time when at a spring rally a guy named Dave Muir and I demonstrated putting a C-10 on the centerstand properly and fully loaded, I did it a few times barefoot. I will neither confirm or deny that alcohol may have been present, this also neither confirms or denies that any was consumed by said perpetrators.
 
timothyhebert7819171 said:
I've searched the archives here the best I can as well as Youtube. I think I've found a simple way to remove both wheels one at a time, but what's a safe way to remove both? What I'm thinking is to get it up on the center stand with a 2x6 beneath the stand, secure the center stand somehow to the frame so it doesn't move. 1st. My plan was to use a small jack with a piece of wood under the engine, jack it up some, raise the front end and remove the front wheel. My thought was to put a thick moving blanket under the front forks and lower it down, then move onto the rear.
Anyone have any suggestions to improve this plan? My only past experience doing this was on my dual sport, and it was pretty easy using a motorcycle scissor lift centered under the bike to raise the entire bike off the ground. I doubt that jack can be centered well on this bike or handle the weight. It says it will handle 1500lbs, but I'd sure hate for the bike to fall.
Click to expand...
I never done both wheels at 1 time, but kinda fun thinking out the process.

Start by loosening all bolts/axle's etc and {possibly} the left muffler.

Raising the bike;
On the 2 x 6; Use 2 blocks of wood and have a helper.
Stand on the right side of the bike.
Hold the front brake in your right hand with your left hand on frame near rear of bike.
Lean the bike towards you.
Have helper place a block of wood under the left leg of the C-stand.
Use your legs and stand the bike upright until right leg is raised.
Have helper place a block of wood under the right leg of the C-stand.
Check bike for steadiness.

Front wheel;
Removing the belly pan might make jacking & securing C-stand easier.
(I use a scissors jack as you have very little room below the bike)
Place a block of wood under the forward fins on the belly of the engine and raise the front of the bike "slightly".
Stop jacking when the rear tire "Touches" the ground.
Attach a strap from the cross brace of the center stand to the jack (temporarily) or to head pipes.
NOTE: This strap is only there to ensure that the C-stand does not fold up. {so little force is needed}
Remove brake calipers and let them hang. (I use bungee Straps)
Remove the front wheel.
Check bike for steadiness.
Replace axle and place a jack-stand under it.
Lower the bike ** slightly.
** Best is having axle at same height as it was with wheel on the ground. (or mebbe 1" lower)
NOTE: If you lower the front too much. The Center stand WILL fold up! {Don't ask me how I know that}
Immediately add a center-stand strap from the jack/other to around the front forks.
Check bike for steadiness.

Rear wheel;
Remove rear caliper drag link bolt.
Check bike for steadiness.
Slide axle partially out. (approx. 3/4 of the way out)
Left muffler may need removal so that axle can slide out.
Raise rear caliper drag/bracket from rotor and secure to the side.
Remove the bushing from right side of wheel.
Slide wheel to the right and off of axle and lower to ground.
Roll wheel from between fender and swingarm.
Check bike for steadiness. AGAIN

Replace tires and reinstall using reverse process.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: This was from my failing Memory & SWAG {Scientific Wild Assed Guess} so please add comments where I missed steps.
 
connie_rider said:
I never done both wheels at 1 time, but kinda fun thinking out the process.

Start by loosening all bolts/axle's etc and {possibly} the left muffler.

Raising the bike;
On the 2 x 6; Use 2 blocks of wood and have a helper.
Stand on the right side of the bike.
Hold the front brake in your right hand with your left hand on frame near rear of bike.
Lean the bike towards you.
Have helper place a block of wood under the left leg of the C-stand.
Use your legs and stand the bike upright until right leg is raised.
Have helper place a block of wood under the right leg of the C-stand.
Check bike for steadiness.

Front wheel;
Removing the belly pan might make jacking & securing C-stand easier.
(I use a scissors jack as you have very little room below the bike)
Place a block of wood under the forward fins on the belly of the engine and raise the front of the bike "slightly".
Stop jacking when the rear tire "Touches" the ground.
Attach a strap from the cross brace of the center stand to the jack (temporarily) or to head pipes.
NOTE: This strap is only there to ensure that the C-stand does not fold up. {so little force is needed}
Remove brake calipers and let them hang. (I use bungee Straps)
Remove the front wheel.
Check bike for steadiness.
Replace axle and place a jack-stand under it.
Lower the bike ** slightly.
** Best is having axle at same height as it was with wheel on the ground. (or mebbe 1" lower)
NOTE: If you lower the front too much. The Center stand WILL fold up! {Don't ask me how I know that}
Immediately add a center-stand strap from the jack/other to around the front forks.
Check bike for steadiness.

Rear wheel;
Remove rear caliper drag link bolt.
Check bike for steadiness.
Slide axle partially out. (approx. 3/4 of the way out)
Left muffler may need removal so that axle can slide out.
Raise rear caliper drag/bracket from rotor and secure to the side.
Remove the bushing from right side of wheel.
Slide wheel to the right and off of axle and lower to ground.
Roll wheel from between fender and swingarm.
Check bike for steadiness. AGAIN

Replace tires and reinstall using reverse process.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: This was from my failing Memory & SWAG {Scientific Wild Assed Guess} so please add comments where I missed steps.
Click to expand...
That's a lot of very helpful info, thanks Ted. I'm starting on everything today since my tires showed up yesterday. Once I get this out of the way it's on to new SS brake lines and pads in the front.
 
connie_rider said:
I never done both wheels at 1 time, but kinda fun thinking out the process.

Start by loosening all bolts/axle's etc and {possibly} the left muffler.

Raising the bike;
On the 2 x 6; Use 2 blocks of wood and have a helper.
Stand on the right side of the bike.
Hold the front brake in your right hand with your left hand on frame near rear of bike.
Lean the bike towards you.
Have helper place a block of wood under the left leg of the C-stand.
Use your legs and stand the bike upright until right leg is raised.
Have helper place a block of wood under the right leg of the C-stand.
Check bike for steadiness.

Front wheel;
Removing the belly pan might make jacking & securing C-stand easier.
(I use a scissors jack as you have very little room below the bike)
Place a block of wood under the forward fins on the belly of the engine and raise the front of the bike "slightly".
Stop jacking when the rear tire "Touches" the ground.
Attach a strap from the cross brace of the center stand to the jack (temporarily) or to head pipes.
NOTE: This strap is only there to ensure that the C-stand does not fold up. {so little force is needed}
Remove brake calipers and let them hang. (I use bungee Straps)
Remove the front wheel.
Check bike for steadiness.
Replace axle and place a jack-stand under it.
Lower the bike ** slightly.
** Best is having axle at same height as it was with wheel on the ground. (or mebbe 1" lower)
NOTE: If you lower the front too much. The Center stand WILL fold up! {Don't ask me how I know that}
Immediately add a center-stand strap from the jack/other to around the front forks.
Check bike for steadiness.

Rear wheel;
Remove rear caliper drag link bolt.
Check bike for steadiness.
Slide axle partially out. (approx. 3/4 of the way out)
Left muffler may need removal so that axle can slide out.
Raise rear caliper drag/bracket from rotor and secure to the side.
Remove the bushing from right side of wheel.
Slide wheel to the right and off of axle and lower to ground.
Roll wheel from between fender and swingarm.
Check bike for steadiness. AGAIN

Replace tires and reinstall using reverse process.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: This was from my failing Memory & SWAG {Scientific Wild Assed Guess} so please add comments where I missed steps.
Click to expand...

Looks like part of a good Concourier if combined with some of the other post! Go Ted!!
 
Well I made a little progress today. Didn't have enough scrap wood, but these fire bricks from my smoker worked out.
1.jpg
I found a spot to tie off the center stand.
2.jpg
Then I remembered I had this brand new jack in the trunk of my car, used it to jack up the front and remove the bricks under the front tire.
3.jpg
This gives you a lot of clearance under the rear wheel now.
4.jpg
Now I needed access to the axle nut and bolt so I removed the bolt from the lower shock mount.
5.jpg
This allowed me to lower the rear wheel down, leaving plenty of access to now remove the rear wheel.
At this point I discovered I did not own a 27mm socket or wrench to continue. So I ordered those, when they arrive today I will continue.
 
Watching your progress. Wow.

Question; Sounds like you're planning to remove the rear tire first?
Would be more stable to do front first.

Good idea on the shock bolt.

1 1/16" SAE Socket or Wrench will work for 27mm.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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connie_rider said:
Watching your progress. Wow.

Question; Sounds like you're planning to remove the rear tire first?
Would be more stable to do front first.

Good idea on the shock bolt.

1 1/16" SAE Socket or Wrench will work for 27mm.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
Thanks. I had considered doing the front 1st until I saw Just Cliff’s suggestion about jacking the front until the side of the center stand makes contact with the floor. I plan to do that, then lower it slightly onto a jack stand using the axle bolt after removal of front wheel.
 
timothyhebert7819171 said:
Thanks. I had considered doing the front 1st until I saw Just Cliff’s suggestion about jacking the front until the side of the center stand makes contact with the floor. I plan to do that, then lower it slightly onto a jack stand using the axle bolt after removal of front wheel.
Click to expand...
Oh man, I cant believe I just came up with a new Cliff T shirt slogan.....'I wrenched like Cliff'. Lol. Sorry Cliff, I couldn't help myself....
 
Well, his method didn't work with my setup. After trying to jack the from the way I had it, the bike was going to fall to the right if I kept going. So I found that the notch in the jack I have works perfectly here.
IMG_7421.jpegIMG_7422.jpeg
I was trying to jack it high enough to get that part of the center stand to touch the ground but it was feeling pretty sketch going back that far without a rear wheel mounted. So I just went up high enough to remove the front wheel safely.
Then back down on a jack stand.
IMG_7423.jpegIMG_7425.jpeg
I'm almost tempted to just mount the tires myself since I have a tire stand, balancer, tire spoons and a bead breaker. But I think I'll leave it to the professionals this time. At least if they ruin my new tires it's on them.
 
Uncle Vern said:
Cliff, You Da Man! Any chance you might post pics of this modified jack in action? I wanna get into tire installation and have a solid donor jack. The Concourier might wanna feature this too...
Click to expand...

Here ya go Vern. The angle pieces reinforce the flat stock; the tubing & the other small piece of flat stock are just spacers.

I even use this set up when removing the forks.
 

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I did this procedure about a month ago for a tire change. I have a 2022. Put it on the center stand and used a low profile hydraulic Dyatona ajck from Harbor Freight under the oil sump. I used a block of wood between the jack and the sump. I was able to get both tires off pretty easily for a tire change. I was a bit uncomfortable leaving it like that for a few days. If I did it again, I use a wider block of wood so I had some leeway side to side. I don't recall for certain, but I think I did the rear wheel first.
 
dzywicki9209 said:
I did this procedure about a month ago for a tire change. I have a 2022. Put it on the center stand and used a low profile hydraulic Dyatona ajck from Harbor Freight under the oil sump. I used a block of wood between the jack and the sump. I was able to get both tires off pretty easily for a tire change. I was a bit uncomfortable leaving it like that for a few days. If I did it again, I use a wider block of wood so I had some leeway side to side. I don't recall for certain, but I think I did the rear wheel first.
Click to expand...

Leaving it on a hydraulic jack for a extended period is asking for trouble, they can & will leak down. Shore it up or use a mechanical jack.
 
Maybe useful info on jacks...all.the GM full-size trucks (GMT800) from 1999 to 2006 have the same mechanical screw jack that looks like a hydraulic bottle jack.
Silverados, Tahoes, Suburbans, Sierras and Yukon all have that jack. I wouldn't be surprised if all GM trucks & vans have had it for a long time. They work very well, and may be cheap at a junk yard, I mean used auto part place.
 
Just Cliff said:
Here ya go Vern. The angle pieces reinforce the flat stock; the tubing & the other small piece of flat stock are just spacers.

I even use this set up when removing the forks.
Click to expand...
Thanks a BUNCH, Cliff! I plan to show these pics to the head welder at the bicycle factory where I work. I'm pretty sure he can do this to the old Craftsman scissor jack I've used since high school. Once I learn how to adjust my suspension at the upcoming National (I think), I can move on to mounting my own tires. Riding in retirement is looking cheaper all the time.
 
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