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Re: What did You Do to your C-10 Today?

Rode the C12 to Nancy Isley's B day party up in Edmonds.
!45 mi of slab, well better than no riding.
Have the RDL seat, been on four Connies so far.
 
Pulled the rear shock off of Blue along with all of the linkage.  Changed the oil in the rear shock.  Cleaned and greased all of the bearings in the linkage.  Put the stock links back on.  Removed adjustable kickstand and replaced with stock.  Did some general cleaning around the shock and swing-arm area while it was apart.
 
Installed new tires front and rear (Avon Spirit St front , Shinko 777 rear) , changed the rear brake pads while I was in there, and added a volt meter/ USB port off a switched accessory port on the left side of the fairing. Think it will be time for the next oil change by next weekend. Gotta say, I love this bike more and more every time I ride her!
 
With 199331 miles on the ODO, decided to change out the 9881 mile rear D404 - even tho’ it still had “some” useful tread left. Problem was it limited the distances I could safely travel before it decided to give up the ghost out in the middle of nowhere. Pushed my luck this past w/e on a lengthy gravel road 70 miles from home, but decided to skip making a long loop of the trip up through some back roads along the Bay..... places I used to work when I was working on Cat propulsion and ships service generators on trawlers and Menhaden boats. May do that loop this w/e.

Replaced with a Shinko 734, 160/80-16. Front and rear now wear Shinko ‘Wing sizes.

Stop on lift to keep rear wheel directly over removable plate in rear:
IMG_5314-XL.jpg


IMG_5315-XL.jpg


IMG_5320-XL.jpg


Wheels are getting too heavy for me to try and lift into position these days, so with the plate removed I can use a hydraulic lift table to lower and raise the wheels into position. Makes slipping axle into place an easy proposition, then sliding the wheel assembly over to engage the hub splines.

We'll get out on the road tomorrow and see how she does. May scoot over to Clifton Forge to the C&O Heritage Center to check out the iron they have on site.
 
Bud said:
Pulled the rear shock off of Blue along with all of the linkage.  Changed the oil in the rear shock.  Cleaned and greased all of the bearings in the linkage.  Put the stock links back on.  Removed adjustable kickstand and replaced with stock.  Did some general cleaning around the shock and swing-arm area while it was apart.
Click to expand...

"Removed adjustable kickstand..........."

Curious whose you have, or is it a home brew?

My inseam seems to be shrinking, so plan on lowering my C10 to compensate. Won't know exactly what I'll have 'til I install the rocker. The 'Wing rear Shinko 734 I installed today jacks the butt end up a bit, and the rocker will lower it, so not sure how things are going to even out - or not.

Hopefully, the rocker will get here in the next few days.

Gonna try this route first since it's a heck of a lot less expensive than going the sidecar route.
 
When I lowered mine, I just heated the lower portion of the stand (just above the foot), and bent it outwards a bit.
When I raised the bike again, re-heated the lower portion of the stand, and bent it inwards a bit.

In both cases, I let it air cool, and didn't seem to weaken the stand.

Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
When I lowered mine, I just heated the lower portion of the stand (just above the foot), and bent it outwards a bit.
When I raised the bike again, re-heated the lower portion of the stand, and bent it inwards a bit.

In both cases, I let it air cool, and didn't seem to weaken the stand.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

So, how did you handle the stand bracing that is triangulated, and is essentially tied into the foot?

stand%20bracing.jpg

 
Bud said:
Pulled the rear shock off of Blue along with all of the linkage.  Changed the oil in the rear shock.  Cleaned and greased all of the bearings in the linkage.  Put the stock links back on.  Removed adjustable kickstand and replaced with stock.  Did some general cleaning around the shock and swing-arm area while it was apart.
Click to expand...

Sent you a PM a few days ago............
 
Decided to just take a relatively short ride today out to the Virginia Veterans Cemetery to visit my son's grave site, and to build a few more miles in my quest to hit the 200K mark. Was gonna to take a long ride yesterday over towards the Bay, but on and off showers derailed that. Maybe tomorrow if the rain holds off.

We'll get there: 575 miles 'til 200K.

Connor%2004-11-10%20006-XL.jpg
 
Bud said:
Thanks for your son's service to our country Guy.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the thought, but he wasn't in the service. He took his own life in 2009 and is interred in the columbarium that my wife and I will also share upon our passing.
 
connieklr said:
connie_rider said:
When I lowered mine, I just heated the lower portion of the stand (just above the foot), and bent it outwards a bit.
When I raised the bike again, re-heated the lower portion of the stand, and bent it inwards a bit.

In both cases, I let it air cool, and didn't seem to weaken the stand.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

So, how did you handle the stand bracing that is triangulated, and is essentially tied into the foot?

stand%20bracing.jpg
Click to expand...

Ted??????????????
 
After cleaning my carbs , I installed them today . She's running like a champ again . Once again I referred to MOB's article in the 06 Concourier mag . Another great reason to be a member of COG .  :motonoises:
 
connieklr said:
So, how did you handle the stand bracing that is triangulated, and is essentially tied into the foot?
Click to expand...

Just returned form a ride;
I posted from memory previously.
I think I bent it just above the triangle brace.
Bike is stored at my Mom's home.
Will go by there ASAP and look at it again.
 
Ted, don’t worry about it. I figured that’s probably what you did since it would make the most sense…… not to imply that you have any.  :beerchug:

Whacking on the triangulation could be done, but why complicate things – eh?

I was hoping Bud (Paul) would get back about the adjustable stand he just took off, but I haven’t heard a peep. Went ahead and got a cheap-A stand off eBay and will play with it once I mount the rocker. Waiting for some new seals to come in before I make the swap.


 
Sorry about that Guy.  I thought I replied to your PM.  Whack me up side the head next time. :-[
 
Ted, don’t worry about it. I figured that’s probably what you did since it would make the most sense…… not to imply that you have any.  

"HEY",,, I resemble that remark!  :mad:

Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
Ted, don’t worry about it. I figured that’s probably what you did since it would make the most sense…… not to imply that you have any.  

"HEY",,, I resemble that remark!  :mad:

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Pay me no mind - just running my yap...............
 
connie_rider said:
I never pay you any mind.. <evil grin>  :rotflmao:

What seal are you waiting for?

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Seal(s) for the needle bearings on the Soucy rocker. He provided, and installed the bearings, but they would be nekked and exposed to the elements without them.

Img_5325-XL.jpg

Img_5326-XL.jpg


They'll be in tomorrow.........
 
I follow you.
& Thanks for posting the image's of the Soucy {Lowering} rocker.
Many have heard of it, but few have ever seen one.

It is the best option for lowering a C-10, and works great with a C-14 (or other) shock.
  {ie; Different heights can Lower or keep stock height when installing the C-14 shock}.

Here is Norm Soucy's info:  sanleonster@gmail.com
                                          phone# (281) 339-1156

Ride safe, Ted
 
Seals haven't arrived yet, but will probably hold off on the installation of the rocker until Friday, or the w/e. Have a ride-to-eat-to shoot (in no particular order) tomorrow evening about 40 miles out of town and want to ride the Connie since still I'm trying to build miles to reach 200K.

We'll take the install one step at a time using all the OEM bits..... with the exception of the rocker, or course. Adding too many variables at one time is never a good thing - IMHO. Too hard to 'cess out the culprit should things go to H*** in a hand basket.
 
I talked to him on the phone when I ordered mine. He said that unless your seals are damaged to just reuse them in his rocker as they have a long svc life as long as they're intact.
 
bajasam said:
I talked to him on the phone when I ordered mine. He said that unless your seals are damaged to just reuse them in his rocker as they have a long svc life as long as they're intact.
Click to expand...

Considered that, but figured why take a chance. Even tho' I have lubed the pivot points a number of times (disassembled twice), mine have been in there for a long time this last go'round. We'll inspect the pivot point "bolts" closely, and if any of them show any signs of divoting they'll get replaced as needed. They're a little pricey, which is why I held off ordering them all in advance. We'll find out in the next day or two.
 
Seals arrived, dun greased up the cat, and installed seals in the rocker. Hopefully I'll find enough free time to lower Connie on Friday, or the w/e.

Img_5327-XL.jpg

Img_5328-XL.jpg
 
skooooobie - doooo.....    :great: :great: :great: :beerchug:

I have one of those hidden away, it was one of the first "experimental ones... with the "MAX" lowering.. they were never sold..

But I did make drawings of them all, 3 versions, for future use.
 
Rode, rode, & rode some more with a couple of others. Absolutely gorgeous day.

We made it out to the Rotary event, popped a bunch holes, had some delicious lamb chops, nice thick steak, baked potato, salads, and tons of other goodies. About 50 were in attendance. Good camaraderie. I'm not a Rotarian, but somehow have made it to 4-5 of these things as a guest.

Got home about 20 minutes ago with 444 miles left until the bike hits 200K.

Tomorrow she rests and we'll see about getting the rocker installed.
 
And she did rest. Used the KLR to run some early morning errands. Did the deed installing the lowering rocker when I got back.

Not too bad a job, and the bike isn't sitting too straight up at present - BUT - I have not raised the tubes up in the front triple trees yet either. Mr. Soucy recommended I call before installing the rocker for some tips he'd come up with over the years, which I did.  He recommended 3/4" for the tubes, which is exactly the amount I was going to start out with, but we'll save that for another day. I'm sure the lean angle would be a little different had I not installed the 'Wing sized Shinkos previously.

Some pix:
IMG_5332-XL.jpg


IMG_5333-XL.jpg


Img_5335-XL.jpg


Img_5337-XL.jpg


Img_5338-XL.jpg


Img_5342-XL.jpg


 
connie_rider said:
Guy, before/after the install; did you happen to measure the axle to frame distance w/bike on center stand?

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Nope. Didn't think about it, and really had no reason to do so. Probably would be good info for others, so sorry about that.... but, I will not be reversing the process to do so. I basically turned off the engineer-in-me mentality in Sept. 2011 when I retired - unless - I need it for me.

One thing I am curious about is how much the OEM shock air pressure will affect the current lean angle. I normally keep ~35 PSI in the shock, but will vary the pressure from 0 to the max 50 before I make the front end changes. Will also vary the air pressure after I change the front end to make sure I don't get into a region the bike gets a little "tippy" with a modified side stand. May load the bike up with my normal camping trip fare as well since I did have an incident one dark night years ago on the carport prepping for a trip.

The carport slab has a slight lean angle to it, and when attempting to close the LH bag, the bike just kinda faded away from my finger tips and went over. As mentioned, it was dark and I couldn't see what was happening.

Managed to get it up using "Skerts" routine..... and nothing seemed busted up, so headed off to work and TWO for a RWTW Rally later in the day for the W/E. Found out later when I got home that I had cracked the RH peg mount.

Oh, the stoopid stuff we do. 
 
From what your saying, I guess you haven't modified the side stand yet?

On my C-10 I installed emulators and stiffer springs in the front, and added a C-14 rear shock.
After that, I tried to set spring sag.
    {Feel like I got it pretty good, but pretty stiff}.

I never tried to set the sag with the OEM rear shock.
  I assume you could change pressure and measure {like I did with the C-14 shock} to determine what difference the pressure makes?

NOTE: Knowing what pressure is in the rear shock is always difficult as checking pressure leaks enough air to change pressure that remains in the shock.  To get the pressures I want, I rigged a regulator/gauge/tire chuck with quick connect,,, to hook at the end of my air hose.
To fill the shock, I set the gauge pressure to the pressure I want, then hold the chuck to the shock until air flow stops, and quickly remove the chuck. Resultant pressures are very accurate.

Ride safe, Ted
 
That's correct - I haven't touched the front end yet, so the stand hasn't been touched either. I'm not a "performance" rider, especially now, so was never concerned about the proper sag, or whatever. If it felt good to me via seat-of-the-pants eval, that was good enough.

My front end is simple enough - Progressive springs and a decal.

Now, I basically fill the shock air pressure the same. With six (6) regulators scattered about in my air system, one of them has to correct - eh?

If the wx holds tomorrow, I may take the bike out before I mess with the front end just to see how it handles. If the wx turns to poo, we'll drop the front and and mod the side stand as necessary.
 
connieklr said:
connie_rider said:
Guy, before/after the install; did you happen to measure the axle to frame distance w/bike on center stand?

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Nope. Didn't think about it, and really had no reason to do so. Probably would be good info for others, so sorry about that.... but, I will not be reversing the process to do so. I basically turned off the engineer-in-me mentality in Sept. 2011 when I retired - unless - I need it for me.

One thing I am curious about is how much the OEM shock air pressure will affect the current lean angle. I normally keep ~35 PSI in the shock, but will vary the pressure from 0 to the max 50 before I make the front end changes. Will also vary the air pressure after I change the front end to make sure I don't get into a region the bike gets a little "tippy" with a modified side stand. May load the bike up with my normal camping trip fare as well since I did have an incident one dark night years ago on the carport prepping for a trip.

The carport slab has a slight lean angle to it, and when attempting to close the LH bag, the bike just kinda faded away from my finger tips and went over. As mentioned, it was dark and I couldn't see what was happening.

Managed to get it up using "Skerts" routine..... and nothing seemed busted up, so headed off to work and TWO for a RWTW Rally later in the day for the W/E. Found out later when I got home that I had cracked the RH peg mount.

Oh, the stoopid stuff we do.
Click to expand...

Oh my, I remember that ride... and always bless you for making it my favorite...  :great: :great: :beerchug:


The bike looks good like that I will say, I don't think I'd mess with the front, without riding a bit more, as it is now. that combo of the tire and rocker, seems nice, and face it we ain't scraping pegs these days, so the long ride front stability may be a nice feature.. and not twitchey after all...


400 miles to go eh, ? I say jump on it and come up here for a visit, before thee snow fly's...  >:D >:D
I miss riding with you.
:'( :'( ;) ;)
 
First ride on the lowered (rear only at this point) to the USPO was okay. With my weight still on the seat, had to be careful that I allowed the stand to go past center and stop at its forward-most position. Also careful with the final lean angle to make sure it wasn’t too “tippy” once I got off. This will get corrected once I lower the front end about ¾” inch and change the angle of the side stand to compensate.

Noticed a little head shake with the cruise set at about 55mph on a slightly level road, but no decel head shake when coasting to a stop approaching a light. The steady, level road shake seemed to go away once I got some heat in the tires (Shinko SR733 front/SR734 rear). Tire pressure is set at 42 PSI front and rear. Rear suspension seemed to be a little more abrupt in its compliance when traveling over bumps, but that may have been due to the cooler temps (~54 deg.) and stiffer side walls of the bias tires. Ride Thursday wasn’t too bad with the temps in the 70’s, but the bike hadn’t been lowered yet either. Haven’t checked my rear shock air pressure yet. Will do that later once I get the bike back up on the lift and supported should I allow the pressure to get too low, but just not today. have some other stuff I need to take care of.
 
Installed a used rifle windscreen (eBay find) and then did a ride up skyline drive over the weekend. Enjoyed the beautiful fall colors, and the grey sky’s kept the crowds to a manageable level. Decided with the better wind deflection, to continue riding in to work a little longer into fall.
 

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connieklr said:
First ride on the lowered (rear only at this point) to the USPO was okay. With my weight still on the seat, had to be careful that I allowed the stand to go past center and stop at its forward-most position. Also careful with the final lean angle to make sure it wasn’t too “tippy” once I got off. This will get corrected once I lower the front end about ¾” inch and change the angle of the side stand to compensate.

Noticed a little head shake with the cruise set at about 55mph on a slightly level road, but no decel head shake when coasting to a stop approaching a light. The steady, level road shake seemed to go away once I got some heat in the tires (Shinko SR733 front/SR734 rear). Tire pressure is set at 42 PSI front and rear. Rear suspension seemed to be a little more abrupt in its compliance when traveling over bumps, but that may have been due to the cooler temps (~54 deg.) and stiffer side walls of the bias tires. Ride Thursday wasn’t too bad with the temps in the 70’s, but the bike hadn’t been lowered yet either. Haven’t checked my rear shock air pressure yet. Will do that later once I get the bike back up on the lift and supported should I allow the pressure to get too low, but just not today. have some other stuff I need to take care of.
Click to expand...

Update: Haven’t taken her out yet, but completed the lowering process today.

Raised the tubes up in the front clamps by ¾”, dropped the rear shock pressure to “0”, then tweaked the sidestand so there was somewhat of a decent lean angle when sitting on the level garage floor. Boosted the shock pressure up to 30 PSI and the lean angle changed accordingly. I think we’re good.

We’ll leave things as they are for now and get it out on the road tomorrow to see how she rides/handles.
 
connieklr said:
connieklr said:
First ride on the lowered (rear only at this point) to the USPO was okay. With my weight still on the seat, had to be careful that I allowed the stand to go past center and stop at its forward-most position. Also careful with the final lean angle to make sure it wasn’t too “tippy” once I got off. This will get corrected once I lower the front end about ¾” inch and change the angle of the side stand to compensate.

Noticed a little head shake with the cruise set at about 55mph on a slightly level road, but no decel head shake when coasting to a stop approaching a light. The steady, level road shake seemed to go away once I got some heat in the tires (Shinko SR733 front/SR734 rear). Tire pressure is set at 42 PSI front and rear. Rear suspension seemed to be a little more abrupt in its compliance when traveling over bumps, but that may have been due to the cooler temps (~54 deg.) and stiffer side walls of the bias tires. Ride Thursday wasn’t too bad with the temps in the 70’s, but the bike hadn’t been lowered yet either. Haven’t checked my rear shock air pressure yet. Will do that later once I get the bike back up on the lift and supported should I allow the pressure to get too low, but just not today. have some other stuff I need to take care of.
Click to expand...

Update: Haven’t taken her out yet, but completed the lowering process today.

Raised the tubes up in the front clamps by ¾”, dropped the rear shock pressure to “0”, then tweaked the sidestand so there was somewhat of a decent lean angle when sitting on the level garage floor. Boosted the shock pressure up to 30 PSI and the lean angle changed accordingly. I think we’re good.

We’ll leave things as they are for now and get it out on the road tomorrow to see how she rides/handles.
Click to expand...

Update: After a 25 mile ride this morning running some errands, we're happy with the results, and we're done.

Finally - Back to your normal programming.

Img_5353-XL.jpg


Img_5355-XL.jpg


 
connieklr said:
connieklr said:
connieklr said:
First ride on the lowered (rear only at this point) to the USPO was okay. With my weight still on the seat, had to be careful that I allowed the stand to go past center and stop at its forward-most position. Also careful with the final lean angle to make sure it wasn’t too “tippy” once I got off. This will get corrected once I lower the front end about ¾” inch and change the angle of the side stand to compensate.

Noticed a little head shake with the cruise set at about 55mph on a slightly level road, but no decel head shake when coasting to a stop approaching a light. The steady, level road shake seemed to go away once I got some heat in the tires (Shinko SR733 front/SR734 rear). Tire pressure is set at 42 PSI front and rear. Rear suspension seemed to be a little more abrupt in its compliance when traveling over bumps, but that may have been due to the cooler temps (~54 deg.) and stiffer side walls of the bias tires. Ride Thursday wasn’t too bad with the temps in the 70’s, but the bike hadn’t been lowered yet either. Haven’t checked my rear shock air pressure yet. Will do that later once I get the bike back up on the lift and supported should I allow the pressure to get too low, but just not today. have some other stuff I need to take care of.
Click to expand...

Update: Haven’t taken her out yet, but completed the lowering process today.

Raised the tubes up in the front clamps by ¾”, dropped the rear shock pressure to “0”, then tweaked the sidestand so there was somewhat of a decent lean angle when sitting on the level garage floor. Boosted the shock pressure up to 30 PSI and the lean angle changed accordingly. I think we’re good.

We’ll leave things as they are for now and get it out on the road tomorrow to see how she rides/handles.
Click to expand...

Update: After a 25 mile ride this morning running some errands, we're happy with the results, and we're done.

Finally - Back to your normal programming.

Img_5353-XL.jpg


Img_5355-XL.jpg
Click to expand...


What are those things hanging off your helmet locks ? Just curious .
 
Hi Guy, that was a great photo with the backlight showing your sidestand profile. I have 17" wheels and the Zzr rear shock and my sidestand is a little tall and I have to be careful to pick a flat or downhill on the sidestand side parking place. Did you apply heat to help in the bending, looks like your bend was concentrated at the top of the "A" brace.
 
Bob_C_CT said:
Hi Guy, that was a great photo with the backlight showing your sidestand profile. I have 17" wheels and the Zzr rear shock and my sidestand is a little tall and I have to be careful to pick a flat or downhill on the sidestand side parking place. Did you apply heat to help in the bending, looks like your bend was concentrated at the top of the "A" brace.
Click to expand...

Thank you.

Bud nailed it. In use you slip the stem through the D-rings of your helmet strap and it gives you some extra room to lock up your helmet. Mine were chromed when I first got them a looong time ago. The reflections kinda glitter as they moved around in the headlight beam of a following vehicle.

And yes, I did apply heat just above the triangulated brace on the stand. The exact location is what I was giving Ted grief about in an earlier post. On the lift with the bike strapped vertical, I used my oxy-acel torch to get it red hot, then angled it up slightly by clampng on a large Cresent wrench just above the foot. With a hefty round bar run through the hole in the wrench handle, I applied a twisting, bending upward motion. Allowed it to air cool, then hit it with some black touch-up paint to keep the rust at bay.

I didn't have to move it far, for even with the tubes raised up 3/4" in the front, the bike was still somewhat stable on level ground due to the over sized Wing tires.

 
Regarding those "chromed things" (extensions). I was introduced to them when they came with my Wing and when I installed helmet locks on my C-14 (yes C-14) I bought them and velcro'd them onto my topbox wall, so they didn't dangle like on my Wing and in the picture. Might be something to do in the pannier of a C-10 if you don't want them "hanging out there in the breeze."  :))
 
ron203 said:
Regarding those "chromed things" (extensions). I was introduced to them when they came with my Wing and when I installed helmet locks on my C-14 (yes C-14) I bought them and velcro'd them onto my topbox wall, so they didn't dangle like on my Wing and in the picture. Might be something to do in the pannier of a C-10 if you don't want them "hanging out there in the breeze."  :))
Click to expand...

Mine turned into somewhat of a curiosity over the years, with a number of folks saying they couldn't figure out what was glittering on the back of my bike.

Definitely convenient where they are currently hanging.
 
ron203 said:
Sometimes, you just need your dangly things shining out there.. :beerchug:
Click to expand...

Shaw - at my age things sure ain't shiney, nor are they dangly..... but do make do with what I still have control of - mostly.
 
Well , those are pretty slick . Ordered a set . They will live in my tank bag which lives on my bike . I'm pretty sure the noise they make bakc there would drive me nuts .
 
cra-z1000 said:
Well , those are pretty slick . Ordered a set . They will live in my tank bag which lives on my bike . I'm pretty sure the noise they make bakc there would drive me nuts .
Click to expand...

The only time I hear anything from them is when I'm rolling the bike around in the garage and the bike moves side-to-side. Have never heard a peep under normal riding conditions.
 
Decided to put a little more of a tweak in the side stand so the bike would lean over a little more. With the lower shock air pressure (35 PSI), bike's suspension would compress more than I was comfortable with once a heavily loaded saddle bag was hung on the side.

No pix this time, but that's what I did to my C-10 today.

Yesterday, I dropped off a spare seat (actually, my original) I had to get recovered; the seams were separating. The fella just sent me a note that it was done and ready for P/U ($80). I'll ride out there tomorrow and swap it out with the seat that's on the bike now since it's having the same issues, and have it redone too.

Before ya'll squawk at the price, I have seen this fella's work + have the testimony from a couple of others who have had him do their seats. I have no doubts it'll be first rate, and look forward to seeing it first hand.

Pix to follow...........
 
Finished up rebuilding my rear caliper. Knew it was sticking but :-\
Took it to work and spent 2 evenings, about a hour each on it.
1st night got it cleaned up and started to disassemble but could not get the piston all the way out.
Tonight I pushed the piston back in and hit it again with some compressed air. Had a rag in between and it
popped like a champagne cork. Cleaned all up and install new rebuild kit from Murphs ;)
Went together like a breeze. I’ll reinstall on Saturday and do the bleed then.
Have me thinking of doing stainless limes soon. :great:
 
Took a nice brisk ~41 mile ride out to pick up seat #1 that I had recovered. Temps were in the high 30's when I left, and they're now around 42 with a nice breeze. Yup, it was an electric kinda ride.

Totally happy with the seat, both in appearance, quality of work, price ($80), and comfort..... the latter since I swapped it out with the seat that was on the bike for the trip out, and used the newly covered seat for the 41 mile trip back home.

Some pix:

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IMG_5368-XL.jpg


IMG_5369-XL.jpg


IMG_5372-XL.jpg


 
Did filter and oil change and added fuel stabilizer.  It's all ready for a long winter nap and will be ready for a new owner next spring.  ;D :D
 
Received my braided lines and speed bleeders from Murphs.
Rear, 2 line front and clutch. Did the rear as that was holding me back
from test driving her after all the work I’ve done over the summer.
Easy to do and the bike ran awesome.
Filled up tank with 90 non-ethanol and 2 oz. of TWC3 👍
Also put on my Shodabeen decal for extra boost and props🤛
 
Winter catch up on a little maintenance. Replaced grips, installed a NEP throttle lock with thumb control down. Stripped and repainted bar weights as they were getting tatty. Replaced fuse in auxiliary power tap off battery. Blown because a little screw got in there some how to short it. Topped off battery charge from outside source. Cold day clear day 24 MPH winds.
 
Took a 3 hour jaunt mid day yesterday. Took a gander through hill and dale in north Louisiana on two lane black tops. Nice brisk ride, very little traffic on nice country roads save for two cages on the wrong side of the road in blind curves. If I had been in a cage myself there would have been damage. Blessed as it was. Seems this is regular fare when out riding now. Someone is always doing something. Mostly cell phones do believe. Just have to be careful as can. Beaut of a day and magnificent ride otherwise.

About 5k+ out since last valve adjustment at a dealership. Noted motor seems not as smooth as usual. Instead of purr now sounds a little throaty. Got best gas mileage as yet at 45 mpg though. That with a lot of mixed winds too. Very gusty.

Would have thought the big C10 would have been less affected. Ha! Wish I could do it again today!
 
Lee, 5k miles is not long enough since valve adjustment to be concerned. How many miles do you have on the bike? I have 60k and 10k+ since last valve adjust, if I recall they were a little tight and as the miles rack up I don't think they move as much as a low mile bike would. If you have a place to host a tech session or attend one local to you it isn't that hard to adjust them. The most time is spent removing plastics and removing and installing valve cover.
 
Thanks for heads up on valves. I have not done the valves myself yet but will next time. Could have been gas. This particular C10 with 23k on it has always been exceptional smooth sounding and feeling in bars is minimal. Much like proverbial sewing machine. Could be it is just getting broke in! Ha!
 
Took her out for a 35 mile Christmas Day spin through the twisties  to test my new heated gloves. Like ‘em so much I’m debating tomorrows 4:30 am ride to work on two wheels instead of four.
 
Took Blue to what used to be the drivers ed driving course at the high school, so my nephew Greg could take his first ride on a "big" bike.  He rides a WR250 Yamaha, so this was a different experience for him.  I was really pleased with how well he did on such a different bike than his usual ride.  He shifted flawlessly until the camera was turned on.  Hope to do some touring with him in the future if things work out.  There are always obstacles to such plans, but that is my wish anyway.  Here's a short video of his ride.  Future COGger?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yi08P1pDs4g&t=45s
 
Did 30mi round trip on twisties hill and dale near my house for a few minutes. Blessed to have such blacktop so close.

Truly I am always amazed at what a truly nice ride a C10 is. Beaut of day to be reminded of such too. Not a cloud anywhere. Wish I could have allotted extra time to be amazed all the more and some time/how longer.

Worked on my Brembo brake conversion some past two days too. Using my parts bike as mock up point. Have 300mm floaters of a Yamaha for discs. Drilled rotor mounting bolt holes larger and mounted rim/tire.

Used a dremel to machine down inner surface of caliper mount holes. Removed some cast in numbers and emblems off that surface. Also enlarged mount surface with a grind/cut off wheel spun down to appropriate diameter. I want to mount with only one mount plate as stock. I do not have tools appropriate. But dremel works with patience and fortitude. Got it .004 parallel with outside original mount surfaces.

Can not decide to do aluminum or a drilled to lighten steel for mount plate. If aluminum will use some kind of threaded rivet or some such for bolt holes.

Will be mocking up with a wood plate to model first. That is currently next step when can get back to it.
 
No mechanican today since the temps are in the high 60's. For early January, I'll take it and we will probably pay the consequences later on.

Friend of mine and I took a 100 mile loop down to West Point, VA to pick up a batch of oysters. If it wasn't for the oysters on board in a cooler with ice, would have kept going for a few more hours. Unfortunately, had other stuff I needed to get done here so had to get back. Will put down a few before the day is done just to be sure they're okay.  :rotflmao:

EDIT: 6 down a little earlier, and they're perfect.  :13:
 
Worked on DIY caliper bracket fabrication mock up for early model 87 C10. Got two of four holes tapped on aluminum mock up plate. Also roughed in exterior shape. Hope to get caliper mount holes drilled and tapped Tuesday maybe. Once complete will use this aluminum mockup as template to convert to steel inner plate with maybe a thinner aluminum outer plate. Like the idea of one inner plate though. Using brembo calipers off a 07 BMW k1200s. Going with steel on inner so I do not have to use thread inserts into aluminum. Tying to keep every thing super simple and stock looking.
 
Installed new foam grips on my 1997 with almost 40,000 miles.. Could not find exact match but the replacements are close and much better plus the price was right.

UPDATE: Well I am going to have to back pedal on the EMGO sponge grips a bit. The grips are a little too soft especially with gloves and will be replaced. Good news is the EMGOs were less than $8.00 delivered.
 
Placed foam in the back vent of the mid-fairing on both sides and went for a 30 mile ride in the mid-40's temps.
With that and the fairing extenders, it was quite comfortable.
Bike ran great and a blast.  :great: :great:
 
Battery tender? I've got one for each bike and the lawn mower. I used to put a battery in the mower every other year because it sits out in the unheated shop. Of course, it doesn't help with heat and vibration death.
 
Just got back from a 5500 mile ride from Phoenix to Key West, FL and back. Took back roads the whole way. took 19 days to make the trip.
 
New (to me by way of Vic Salisbury) 52L Givi top box. It's sad to see the distinctive Shoodaben top box go, but it was going to need replacement soon due to failing pieces. Lots of space now.

 

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Err Ron. That's not a C-10.

My son and I are working to resurrect a C-10 that has set for many years.
Last week we measured piston heights, did a compression check, and got it to run e'nuff to feel the engine is sound.
Followed that with a clean/rebuilt the carbs.
Hope to get them installed soon.

Ride safe, Ted
 
New 8.8 MM drill bit and M10 x 1.25 tap arrived today!

Was able to complete my DIY steel brake caliper brackets for my early 87 C10. Everything fits nicely. Using 300mm Yamaha floating discs and BMW/Brembo 36/32 mm calipers. HoRah!

Going to drill the brackets to lighten them a bit and then paint them with a hammered bronze/black paint next. Yeah getting there!
 
Brought it out of hibernation.  It still runs like a champ.  Ready for it's new owner! :great:
 
Oil change and general wipe down. Ready for a 70 mile trip in to work tomorrow in 39 degree weather. Anyone care to voice an opinion on how critical fork oil changes are? I haven’t done one yet( I’ve had the bike just over 10k miles), and kinda dreading the task to be honest.
 
connie_rider said:
My son and I are working to resurrect a C-10 that has set for many years.
Last week we measured piston heights, did a compression check, and got it to run e'nuff to feel the engine is sound.
Followed that with a clean/rebuilt the carbs.
Hope to get them installed soon.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Finally got back to the resurrection...

Carbs done, installed, and got it started.
  Runs good. Idles good.
  Realized that it has Steve's 2 min kit in it.
    Will install foam on next work day.
Bled and exercised the brake calipers.
  Were binding some, air in the system, and fluids were dark.
      Seem ok for a test ride now. {Prolly rebuild calipers eventually}.

After all of that, will start figuring out the pile of plastic and screws.
    {All parts are mixed and came to us in a box (or 3)}.  :-[ :-[

Ride safe, Ted
 
Aired the tires on the '99 yesterday, selected prime for about 45 seconds then back to run. First press of the starter gave about a 10 second run. 2nd press and it stayed running and the rpm picked up as each cylinder came on line until the en-richer could be dialed back some. Only about a 20 mile ride to the hardware store but it sure felt good to be on two wheels. Not sure if I will get a chance to put the '05 back together this week but I do have the carb bowl back form Steve so I might get a chance to do some on it tomorrow. I only get about 2 hours a day to work on it and want all of that when I start back on with the carb rack.
 
I can reply on this one now!

Took the advice of folks here and tightened up the coolant hose clamps. Yup, fixed my minor leak. Had no idea those things would back off as much as they did.

I bought a new temp sender unit, that I hope to replace tonight, along with the battery. I think its about 5 or 6 years old. Put a battery in the wing a few weeks ago, might as well do the connie.

Last I need to order replacement parts for the tip over bars. They never were 'used' but the mounting tabs have just given up over the last year, so they need to be replaced.

I'm hoping to have a good solid year with the connie in 2020. 2019 was pretty sparse riding.
 
Derick said:
I can reply on this one now!

Took the advice of folks here and tightened up the coolant hose clamps. Yup, fixed my minor leak. Had no idea those things would back off as much as they did.

I bought a new temp sender unit, that I hope to replace tonight, along with the battery. I think its about 5 or 6 years old. Put a battery in the wing a few weeks ago, might as well do the connie.

Last I need to order replacement parts for the tip over bars. They never were 'used' but the mounting tabs have just given up over the last year, so they need to be replaced.

I'm hoping to have a good solid year with the connie in 2020. 2019 was pretty sparse riding.
Click to expand...

Every time I am close to a hose clamp and can get to it I give it a turn . Most of the time they need a little tightening .
 
So much room for activities!

Connie saw some love this weekend.

Yesterday I replaced the temp sending unit and yay I have the temp gauge back!

Today I got the oil changed, both motor and final drive, replaced a burnt out license plate bulb, replaced the rear brake pads and bled the rear brake line w/ fresh fluid.

Next week, I'll replace the front pads and bleed the front system, put on the new tip over bar mounts, and change the rear shock oil, and then I think she is 100 percent for the 2020 season.

Well, minus the tires. She needs tires. Bad lol.
 
Derick said:
I have the same case... And I'm not sure if they're going to get more in or not, but I highly recommend this led upgrade kit

https://www.twistedthrottle.com/admore-lighting-led-mini-kit-for-givi-e52-topcases-with-existing-givi-light-kit
Click to expand...

I suspect this was directed at me since I had the most recent post in the thread that mentioned the Givi E52...

Already done, in fact. I was able to order it direct from Admore. It makes a huge difference in visibility over the stock E52 lights.

And in new "what did I do?"...the Bullet HD Biker Pro Plus camera that I put on the bike in 2016 quit working and the manufacturer isn't responding to email. So, I replaced it with a Innovv C5 I scored used off eBay for less than 1/2 the new price. The camera is the same diameter so it was a plug-and-play replacement in the existing mount. The Innovv control head has brighter, more annoying lights than the Biker's "alien head" controller, so it's mounted under the seat instead of on the dashboard.
 
Finish putting on the superbike bar with the Storz adapter that
bowtie39 hooked me up with. :great: :great: Thank you for this sir.
Can’t believe how much of a difference it makes. Just a short ride
around the block. Slight adjustment and ride in tomorrow to work.
Digging thru my toolbox, came across the bar end weights from
my former DR650. Worked out well.
 
I bought it.  ;) 1998 49K KMs.  Very pumped. Then I read all posts met SISF Florida and now have Hydrolock angst  :eek: but am also very impressed with SISF.  Runs like a top. Has a COG Decal on it with Can Flag (Ontario boy). I do not see carb over flow tubes but then again I don't know what they look like. Any pics of what they look like installed? Also came with bar height extenders, but no install instructions. They look simple enough but no instructions page any idea where to find that? Thanks
 

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