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Re: What did You Do to your C-10 Today?

The positive check for overflow tubes inside the carb bowls, is to attach a tube onto the nipple of the bottom of the bowl and blow into it. If it flows air then overflow tubes are installed. No airflow= no overflow tubes.
 
Thanks all. Installed handle bar risers dead simple just had to suck it up and start. Shimmed side stand kill switch so I could pass safety, needed to so that it would line up with side stand, nipple was slipping between stand and mounting plate (bending side stand back to original not working). Inserted a couple of washers between plate and switch. Macgyvered a very short 90 degree phillips by dremeling a no 2 phillips bit in half and taping it into a 1/4in box crescent.  Gave clearance  the saved me from pipe removal, will replace those phillips with hex screw heads. Passed safety, high marks from shop on rest of machine which is always nice. 
Checked for overflows by blowing into carbs as suggested here and by SISF, no go. Did hydrolock bent rod test. All good!
Next step working on buffing out minor scratches and JB Plastic weld a support piece on cracked mounting hole on fairing. Any feedback on Meguiar's SCRATCH X 2.0 Fine Scratch & Swirl Remover? Seems to be getting a lot of love in google search.
 
I ordered new tires today. Neglected to check the tires after I bought the bike and I've been riding around on 15 year old tires.
 
Got 3 of the 4 things I wanted to get done on Friday. Installed new brake pads on the front and bled the system and replaced the oil in the rear shock.

Final need to dos:
Install new tip over bar hardware
Have new tires mounted (trying the Avon road riders this year)
Repaint the rear tip over bars... When I got them I had plastidipped them and that has rubbed off from misc junk in the garage. The fronts have already been redone.

After those last few things the Concours is perfect and ready to ride. Seems like the only safe place out there is perhaps out riding a motorcycle....
 
Rolled to 45k exactly, pulled through bike into the garage for her valve adjustment, new plugs and a recharge on the battery. Rain this morning, so I’m hoping it will be dry enough this afternoon to test out the maintenance results. And time to plot the next few items to work on. Hmmm, maybe that fork oil and tighten up the head bearings?
 
More progress on our 99 C-10 resurrection.
Parts/hardware are all in 1 box, parts missing, parts wrong, 10 miles of wiring was added to the bike by someone (??) / not all works, what is it {??}, some wiring unknown/not working, stupid virus making it harder to go get parts etc..
Geez, this is FUN!!  :great:

Yesterdays progress;
Tank on, gas etc lines hooked up.
Upper motor mount bolts replaced. {Had crash bars, but some parts missing. Had to improvise}
Right lower fairing installed. {Stupid crash bar parts held fairing off and had to remove tank etc to remove/replace those}
  {Will get correct parts off of my parts bike / stored at another location}
Discovered left fairing broken. {need to remember what glue to buy (??) and repair}
Engine running but "very" sluggish.  {discovered fuel gauge problem}
  Removed broken rheostat in the fuel gauge system. {showed gas in tank when needed to be on reserve}
Engine running but "a bit" sluggish. {discovered Steve's 2 min kit installed and no foam}
    Added foam and adjusted.  {Running great. Sharp response when we twist the throttle}  :great:
Checked for oil/coolant leaks. All is fine.
    Yahoo, possible test ride….

Suddenly, the engine won't crank over.  :mad:
  {Discovered bad wiring at the clutch switch}
      {Will get clutch switch off of my parts bike}

We're getting there: but 2 steps forward and 1 back,, is making it slow going.

Ride safe, Ted

 
Bought an 06 two years ago this week.
2 day trip to Red Mile flat track races revealed 2 things.
1. C10 was way too hot.
    Last year, per GOG suggestions, went half naked route. Helped.
    Still too hot.
    This past winter, bought a Madstad windshield off of COG, hoping air flow under shield will lesson
    negative pressure behind faring  / eliminate some of the heat.
    We'll see if it helps
2. The ergonomics aggregated my cervical stenosis - causing severe vertigo - couldn't ride more than 30 minutes.
    Converted to handle bars. Bought a home made adaptor with an after market rubber mounted clamp on COG
    Love it, took a couple 2 day trips last year, vertigo much better.
    Big chunk of home made aluminum is little different, but hey, it works.
    Handle bars are off of an old KZ900 frame my friend had sitting in the weeds behind his house.
    Not sure if they are OEM, and they are little wider than my 78 KZ650 bars, which I consider the gold standard.
   

Yesterday did Hyro lock / bent rock check per video from SISF.
  Tested good. Whew!
Last night made some vent plates from 1/8' scrap aluminum I had laying around.

NEXT - send float bowels to SISF for drain tube

Stay safe
Bob
 

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After 7 years got it running. Was knocked over in parking lot and need insurance settlement for other bills. Child support will do that. But now had funds to get it flushed and maintained. I found threads for fairing repair and located all the parts and was able to get all plastic n windscreen n base installed. Have too rifle bases for later. Located headlite on ebay after oem shattered when upper fell off bench. Bought fairing and windshield fastener upgrades and oil filter adapter from murphs. Last major tasks....find or replace title, get inspected and registered and get rust removed from tank and hookup heated handle bars. Life is good
 
Had the 99 out of the shed to do some work on another bike. The wife said since you have to start it up to drive it up the step of the shed we should take it around the block. Good that around the block is 15 miles. Bad that around the block is ONLY 15 miles. If we had started earlier I would have tried to make it 100 miles.
 
Installed and tested headlight. Reinstalled upper fairing. Nice test drive around neighborhood. Nothing fell off. Tomorrow safety inspection then registration. Then finish repairs to plastics n install and ride
 
Took the "Resurrected" Bike out for a test run.
Ran good, all gears , lights, etc, worked,,, but all 3 brake calipers are dragging...  :mad:

Ride safe, Ted
 
Got head lite installed today and worked. Took it in for inspection and passed. Rode it around the neighborhood and is running great.
Went home and started final repairs to fairing. Glued up missing tab on front right turn signal. Had to remove some of ABS sheet glued to inside of fairing so right turn signal would seat properly. Had to remove more ABS sheet so upper fairing would seat flush to inner console cowling.

Fixed long crack in lower right fairing/cowling. Last have glued some ABS tabs to front of upper fairing that will allow lower fairing/cowling to be attached to upper fairing. Old tabs broke off. Also measured all bolts for diameter and length for correct placement. Left front turn signal had the upper mounting post broke off so glued up a block of sheet ABS and glued to inside of upper fairing. Once it set will carefully drill pilot hole in ABS block for mounting screw. To reduce chance of screw breaking ABS block will use drill bits from smaller diameter to larger till proper size for mounting screw is achieved. Then carefully screw in turn signal. Hopefully this wont break off ABS block.


Once this is completed will need to remove battery box as bolts securing it to frame are badly rusted....hope can get them out without drilling.  Also the tool tray that fits on top of batter box has broken tab that looks like it should be secured by bolt to frame. If I think it is
rattling will use some ABS sheet to fix broken tab and find correct bolt to secure.


Lastly looking for local shop to remove rust and scale from fuel tank. Then ride ride ride.
 
The can has rattled!
Front fairing and 2 sides are painted with the duplicolor BFM0225.  The smaller piece in front of the trailer is from the previous $900 pro paint job with the test stripe across the middle.  11 minutes left before adding clear coat.
They look darker than the bike parked 30 feet away, worst case is my test was a lighter color for not shaking the can enough back then.  I still suspect the pro job used this color paint too but after 33 years it could be un-original before I got it.
 

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I don't think the pros will need their brown pants this time.  It has a lot of streakish patterns in it, likely because it was windy and I had to hold the can too close just to get paint on the fairing sometimes.  This picture is after the clearcoat (still drying). A swarm of newborn flies went by too, luckily they prefer blue and I only caught 1 tasting the primer coat.
Edit: Just as I was thinking I should have waited for the calm breezes I was feeling, a gust blew the 2 sides over and one got its first ding.
 

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Got the Mean Streak wheel back from the machinist.
Put in basement for now. Have some more tire miles left on the OEM wheel so I plan on wearing that out prior to the exchange. Going to replace wheel bearings and get a front Nomad rotor. Probably plan on the conversion by late summer. Or sooner depending on how many miles on get on. :)
 
I have figured out how the lower heat shields fit togeather, they were both split. And some tabs were broken off. Also figured that pair of broken tab arent for fairing but for battery case. Also realized that should have put belly pan fairing on first. And I need to check too see if exhaust pipe heat shields are present
 
I put the painted fairings on the bike.  Got a little behind schedule & finished in the dark.
It needs a wash and some compounding to fix the matte finish, I think.
Broke 1 plasti-fix tab before painting, epoxied it back on, broke it again today.
The right side has a 1/4" gap at the front between front & side fairings.
I expect the metal supports are bent a little up & left.  Something to fix later I guess.
 

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Got plastic back on. Have two bolts that will need to have mounting tabs redone to line up. All rubber trim is on. Repairing tool case bolt tabs tonight. Have instructions on how to rewire grip heaters. I think PO wired it up wrong then gave up on it. Last item is to remove rust from tank. Revzilla had a good DIY that doesnt require strong solvents or major sealant.  Rode her today and she is running better n better. Gonna gear up tommorow and really stretch her legs
 
Well, while not today, maybe 2 weekends ago, I did the following:

*Reinstalled the front tip over bars. WHAT A PITA. The entire time I was considering, I've never dropped the connie....why tf am I messing with these stupid things?!?!!?!

Last thing I need for the non-existent 2020 season is have my Avon RoadRider tires installed. My tire guy needs it to be warmer as he has a manual tire installing machine....so hopefully soon.
 
Got her all buttoned up and decided such a nice day a couple trips around the neighborhood was called for.  Nice little jaunt was was able to at least ger her over 60 mph.  Then I dropped her in the driveway. Broke off the right front foot rest. Damn. Already ordered it off murphs. Well I was gonna clean the rust out of the tank next week so by that time will have the replacement foot peg. Now just have to find where I stored the broken one. One bright spot. The windscreen 5mm mounting nuts came in today....all the way from the UK and they work.

So while cleaning the tank will be able to fine tune fit and fitment on the fairings and cowlings, remount the tool case on battery box and
I tested out the throttlemeister bar end and it works fine. Need to pull cases out of storage and I remember I need to replace the elastic bands in the interior anyone have a way to replace these on the cheap. Thanks
 
Recent; found shorts in wiring, replaced clutch switch, replaced windshield, rebuilt all calipers, and bled brakes.
Today; Free Power mod, adjusted seat, and shifter on the 99 Connie that we're trying to resurrect.
  {We're getting closer}..  :great:

Ride safe, Ted
 
While doing other stuff I noticed that there was rattle from each mirror after being plucked by a finger. It turned out the glass was loose inside the plastic housing.  I cleaned the glass and put a bead of black silicon arou d the edges.  Hopefully they will be rattle free when they cure.
 

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Got a 50 plus mile short ride in with wife on back.  It was grand even if stay at home is still the order of the day. She had not been out in weeks and finally went stir crazy. The ride was very releasing for us both. Then I ran some essential errands to restock alone. The C10 seemed to keep wanting to get me pulled over for speeding! Do not know what it's problem was. Maybe it liked getting out too!
 
Had to order Foot rest mounting bracket as that has a mounting tab broken off too. So ordered it from Partzilla along with dust boots for front brake cable and clutch cable. Have speed bleeders to make this easy as possible. Got all the plastic mounted with correct screws. There are three mounting tabs that need a little more adjustment for proper and easy fit. Got relay for grip heater project. Thinking about getting a voltmeter to monitor battery status. Hopefully will be back on road this weekend
 
Installed my new to me progressive 465 rear shock!  I like it! :)
 

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Rode her. Plus got positive electrode ready for tank rust removal.  Got short piece of 1/2" pvc and end cap. Found some steel bolts for sacrificial electrodes.  Drilled holes in pvc to allow liquid solution in tank to come into contact with electrode with out it contacting tank. Threaded positive wire through top of pvc wrapped around one end of electrode. Used shrink wrap to ensure wire stayed wrapped to electrode. Placed cap on end of pvc over bolt head to prevent metal to metal contact in tank.   


Now once I get most of gas out of tank by short rides I will begin rust removal. Still need to get Arm n Hammer Power Washing Soda and some kerosene. Got pea gravel and 8 gallons of vinegar for mechanical and chemical rust removal.                                                     
 
Don't use pea gravel.
  Whatever you use can become trapped in the narrow section at the bottom of the tank.
  I suggest use threaded Nut's, and count them before putting in tank..
      With Nuts; You might be able to get them out if they become stuck.   

Ride safe, Ted
 
Finished the rubbing  compound phase.  Spent about i hours pulling the side fairings and loosening the front, then bending metal stuff, then putting the fairings back on and checking the fit, then pull the fairings off... 8 hours. Left side now imperfect, right side is better than it was.  Not sure if it's all tilted to the right.  In any case, it will need to be rid to prove it will all stay where I put it.  One turn signal boss was a casualty.  That side was already missing one so I cut a small wood block and used E-ZPass velcro to stick it on the fairing.  I pre-drilled to avoid splitting the wood and brushed linseed oil on it to give it some protection.  The 3rd boss was too hard to fit.  It is the top one and given the wood block solution I wanted something there so I put a strip of E-ZPass velcro along the top lip of the signal and stuck it in the cut-out.  It's pretty solid but more flush than OEM, which worried me a little until I noticed flush-ness on the left side which has 3 good bosses.  The E-ZPass tape is actually a 3M product available at the big box hardware dept.
Meanwhile I used a piece of a strap hinge with a speednut clamped to it as a substitute for a tab on the front right.  It now has some sort of functioning hardware on every fastener position.  The hinge was zinc plate but it doesn't have threads so I'll worry about it down the road if I ever go down the road again.
When I had my 2-tone paint on the old fairing I used vinyl tape between colors and it didn't get too dull or fall off, so I wrapped my sorrg looking mirror bellows with vinyl tape and I like the results.
That's it for now, time for 'essential' work.
 

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Going over my My 2006 C10  with 18,800 miles.

1. Checked the valve clearances.
    intakes were set between 0.00 and .002, exhaust were between .002 and .004.
    The lock nuts were so tight I snapped Chraftsman 1/4' swivel trying to losen em.
        I found all the pieces except the little pin that held the swivel together.
          Ran my magnet around in the head.... hopefully it's on the floor some where.

2. Set intake to .006 and exhaust to .008
3. Checked compression.
  #1. 200.  #2  192.  # 192.    #4 205

Next steps
1. rebuild carbs.
2. replace broke center stand.

Stay safe
ONO Bob


 
I have to ask.  How did the center stand get broken?  I've broken a lot of things.  Just not a center stand.
 
Well finally got enough gas out of tank by riding but decided today was day to empty it manually. Pulled all hoses and the petcock worked as should. Kept on Run setting and pulled main and reserve gas lines and no leakage from tank. Plugged lines leading to carbs and set tank on rolling cart with foam rubber to cushion it. Connected spare gas line to main petcock fitting and set to prime and gas flowed into gas can. 3 gallons later gotdammit need another can. Too Walmart to [/size]face idiots without masks and no idea what 6 feet means. Decided to get a 5 gallon can so I can empty the 2 gallon and 1 gallon cans into it plus whats left gas tank. Better to have one big bomb than 3 small ones. While tank is off gonna install bergmans quick tank release bolts. Replace Front RH footrest mounting bracket. Fix some broken tabs on fairing. Plus maybe try to get PO grip heaters working. Also will be able to put tank bra back on. After I have her back togeather gonna fit bags and tank bag back on and take her for an all day ride.
[/color][/size]Fun in the Sun.
 
Bud said:
I have to ask.  How did the center stand get broken?  I've broken a lot of things.  Just not a center stand.


The main part of the center stand is still there.
Just the metal arm that stuck out with the toe grab is what's missing
The bike was laid down / has a salvage title.

It looks like I have to remove the left exhaust / heater pipe to get to it.
May just live with the broken one for a while longer
 
ONO Bob said:
Going over my My 2006 C10  with 18,800 miles.

1. Checked the valve clearances.
    intakes were set between 0.00 and .002, exhaust were between .002 and .004.
    The lock nuts were so tight I snapped Chraftsman 1/4' swivel trying to losen em.
        I found all the pieces except the little pin that held the swivel together.
          Ran my magnet around in the head.... hopefully it's on the floor some where.

2. Set intake to .006 and exhaust to .008
3. Checked compression.
  #1. 200.  #2  192.  # 192.    #4 205

Next steps
1. rebuild carbs.
2. replace broke center stand.

Stay safe
ONO Bob
[

I found the missing piece of the broke swivel! Sure enough it was the head, laying a puddle of tile in the center front! 
I got VERY lucky. Just kept fishing around in the head until it stuck to my little magnet.
Man that's relief/quote]
 
ONO Bob said:
Bud said:
I have to ask.  How did the center stand get broken?  I've broken a lot of things.  Just not a center stand.


The main part of the center stand is still there.
Just the metal arm that stuck out with the toe grab is what's missing
The bike was laid down / has a salvage title.

It looks like I have to remove the left exhaust / heater pipe to get to it.
May just live with the broken one for a while longer
Pulling a muffler is 2 bolts.
 
Bud said:
ONO Bob said:
Bud said:
I have to ask.  How did the center stand get broken?  I've broken a lot of things.  Just not a center stand.


The main part of the center stand is still there.
Just the metal arm that stuck out with the toe grab is what's missing
The bike was laid down / has a salvage title.

It looks like I have to remove the left exhaust / heater pipe to get to it.
May just live with the broken one for a while longer
Pulling a muffler is 2 bolts.
[Yes, did that, but to get to the center mount bolt on the left side appears to req/quote]
 
It looks like you might be able to remove the side stand switch and get to that bolt.  HTH
 

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Spooned on a new Battleax B45. Old was getting worn out. Wearing out the rear and then swapping over to the Mean Streak. Once the front goes, a ZX front will go on.
 
got tank off and washed out with dawn and hot water. Used foam rubber to seal holes from fuel gauge and petcock and venting tube.
washed out till nor more suds. then filled with straight vinegar = 7.5 gallons and had to adjust plugs to fix small leaks. The vent tube was most perplexing - didnt leak gas when I first removed tank and had several gallons of gas. But after few minutes of vinegar started leaking. Had to get better tubing and applied clamp...no more leak. After few hours rust is starting to flake from surfaces and change color from dark red to light orange. A few days and it should be ready for electrolysis. While tank is sitting I fixed tabs and cracks in fairing.  Tomorrow will try to install block off plates without removiong the cylinder head cover. Any suggestions. Hopefully I will have time to install the speed bleeders and replace the dust boots on the clutch and brake master cylinder.
 
croach1776 said:
got tank off and washed out with dawn and hot water. Used foam rubber to seal holes from fuel gauge and petcock and venting tube.
washed out till nor more suds. then filled with straight vinegar = 7.5 gallons and had to adjust plugs to fix small leaks. The vent tube was most perplexing - didnt leak gas when I first removed tank and had several gallons of gas. But after few minutes of vinegar started leaking. Had to get better tubing and applied clamp...no more leak. After few hours rust is starting to flake from surfaces and change color from dark red to light orange. A few days and it should be ready for electrolysis. While tank is sitting I fixed tabs and cracks in fairing.  Tomorrow will try to install block off plates without removiong the cylinder head cover. Any suggestions. Hopefully I will have time to install the speed bleeders and replace the dust boots on the clutch and brake master cylinder.
You don't have to remove the cylinder head cover to install block off plates.  HTH
 
Removed my cut stock spring and installed RT 1.0 springs I had around. Went from harsh to pleasant side of soft. RT calculator says I need 1.4 springs. Ha! One can not seem to find such.
 
Disassembled, cleaned, and sprayed rear fender with Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer. Amazing stuff. First coat seemed to make it worse, but the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th coats transformed the look of a battered scratched fender. Will be doing the fairing inners and a few other bits with it over the next few days.
 
Got the new Avon tires on the Connie. These things just want to lean into corners. Just did a quick neighborhood right but I'm itching get it out on them soon.
 
Hitting the 70’s here in Western NC. Time to switch over to my summer shield. Original that when it fogged up and was looking scratched, I cut down and painted the inside black.
Doesn’t block the wind so much but sure does cut the heat down.
Loving the ceramic coated headers I put on last year. That really helps. :great: :motonoises:
 
Replaced rear tire.
Replaced left mirror plate as the old one fell off with the trim piece.
Bought new Bell automotive 00446-8  rectangular spot mirrors to replace.
Ready for the group Oly RAT RIDE tomorrow. Usually about 5 riders.
 
danodemotoman said:
Replaced rear tire.
Replaced left mirror plate as the old one fell off with the trim piece.
Bought new Bell automotive 00446-8  rectangular spot mirrors to replace.
Ready for the group Oly RAT RIDE tomorrow. Usually about 5 riders.
Well that's what happens when you hot rod that C10!  Rear tire and mirror falls out :great:
 
Replaced front brake lines with Spiegler stainless set from Murph.  Install was a breeze and my vacuum pump and speed bleeders made easy work of the bleeding.  Made for a nice firm lever and a stronger feel to the front brakes.  :great:
 
I added a 10 watt solar trickle charger! After adding some electronics that draw on the battery I figured this would be a handy addition. I added the Battery Tender solar controller so it doesn't damage the battery. I'm not sure where I will decide to mount the solar panel but it has straps so it can easily go anywhere on the back. It charges while parked and while riding. It will be a bonus since I will be giving this bike to a friend and he doesn't have an outlet where he parks.
 

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Yesterday, I finally got the mirror repaired, so I installed that, dash, windshield, lower fairings/belly pan/seat/etc, and buttoned her up.
    Also changed oil and filter, water pump, hoses, and coolant.
Today, I finished the repack on both muffler's and I think all the drop damage {and "might as well do it while I'm here's"} are done.  :great:

Ride safe, Ted
 
Hello to all I HAVE a 2001 and after 8 years in storage  :mad:  I performed following service:
Carburetor rebuild and sync
Valve adjustment new gaskets
Clutch slave rebuild and rod seal
Spark plugs
Balancer adjustment
Brakes F/R
Cooling system - thermostat, cap, o-rings, hoses, water pump seal and o-rings, coolant
All fluids change
Grease gears in final drive
Front & rear tires, wheel barrings
Fuel tank clean ,tap rebuild
New battery, oil & Air filter
Murph's screws
Wash & wax
Now rides like new 20mi loop :) :beerchug:
Waiting on DMV tags to take long trip

BIG THANK YOU TO THIS CLUB all the info hear is priceless.
 
So, after getting a Stop and Go RCP mini air pump and Dynaplug tire repair kit for Christmas...Today I got to test them out!!!!! I also learned what its like to slowly loose pressure in a rear tire while traveling at highway speeds. Needless to say, a new Shinko 777 is on order, and I am going to have to baby her on the way home. one thing i discovered, where possible, get the set that has the reamer, my nail was so small that i had to drill out the hole to insert the plug. Guess I'm adding a 1/8" drill bit to the emergency tool kit in the pannier.
 
  Installed a trailer hitch and wired bike for a 4 way flat plug.  Easiest hitch install I have ever done and wiring very simple to do also.  Test pulled my Dart trailer I pull behind my Goldwing  Connie has no problem with it.
 
Went for my first ride since the covid hit.
I used ear plugs so of course she sounded better than without them, but she sounded real good.
Doing away with few rattles helped a lot.
A passing car swerved into my lane at the beach while I was doing the limit of 55mph.
Then it went onto the grass next to the road in front of me raising a cloud of dust worthy of a dirt road.
Then ahead of me in my lane, back onto the grass halfway, and off into the sunset ahead where I think he/she had to slow down for other cars as they all reached a traffic circle.
It will be interesting to see the effect on my shiny new paint.  It's dark out now.
Filled it up a block from home.
After 3 months of weekly starts without going anywhere and 132 miles on the tank, I got 28 mpg.
I'm sure putting it in gear will improve economy.
 
Took a spin on the 01 yesterday.  When I got home, I looked down and saw lots of gas coming from the petcock area. :-\ :-\  The fuel line had come off! :-\ :-\  The old vinyl line had gotten hard and lost its grip on the nipple.  New line installed and all is good.  I was very very lucky it didn't catch fire and me along with it!
 
Finished derusting the tank. Found all the mounting rubber. Installed an inline fuel filter. Charged the battery.  Will put gas in tank just enough to test for leaks. No leaks fire her up, take her for a test ride then if no problems fill the tank up and install all the plastic and enjoy. Also put the tank bra back on.
 
Bud, I've had that same issue. I got the non Tygon motion pro fuel line and even with clamps it wanted to slip off. Murph's Tygon stays on great but it does create areas that look like they kink. I haven't decided, but I might just use the black OEM lines. They don't have these issues, although you can't see the fuel flowing until the fuel filter.
 
Installed Murphs Block off plates. However; I either lost the nipples for the tubes found at Carbs 1 and 4 or they werent in shipment. My question I know their are several solutions to this but was wondering would there be any problems if one length of hose were used to connect these two tubes together.
 
To plug the nipples, the same piece of hose can be used again if air can not flow between the carbs.
But, why not make a plug for each cap? {by cutting a piece of hose for each nipple, and plugging 1 end}
  Can be replaced later with proper cap's that is available at Auto Supplies.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Was just thinking instead of having to plug both outlets with individual nipples, etc just use the same hose to seal off both. I know that would most likely need a plastic piece to join both original hoses together. In principal I dont see where this would be much different as long as the plastic piece was solid and would also restrict outlet same as individual nipples .
 
croach1776 said:
Installed Murphs Block off plates. However; I either lost the nipples for the tubes found at Carbs 1 and 4 or they werent in shipment. My question I know their are several solutions to this but was wondering would there be any problems if one length of hose were used to connect these two tubes together.

If you are talking about the vacuum nipples, on 1 & 4, think closely... intake vacuum occurs at an opposite rotation point, between these 2 carbs.. so combining them with a hose, will create an un balanced vac issue...and, as these are CV carbs, and rely on their segregated vacuum characteristics, to operate correctly... just plug them individually, there is a reason they work like this.. $2 at Auto zone... and you have a bunch of plugs..  I guess you could ask SISF, if it makes you happy, but he will tell you the same thing.. I've "Built" a "couple" sets of carbs for these bikes in the last 17 years..  :rotflmao:
 
Ted and I have been disCUSSING this back and forth, behind the scene... :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

for clarity, I will comment on the "tee'd" line thing...

early California bikes, with the EPA Evap cans and system, did have a T line, but that particular line was also attached to/ran to the evap pump switch device... this in turn, would kind of "buffer" the effect of reversion pulsations between the 2 carbs they were attached to... for all the 49 state bikes, those nipples were plugged, using 3 individual plugs... this is shown in the FSM... for clarity.. I've attached a pic showing the plugs with pointers, and also the notation on the Cali model...
:beerchug: :beerchug:
 

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Ckroach, if you still need caps, shoot me a pm and I’ll send you however many you need. I have some from when I bought caps from McMaster Carr and as always there’s quite a few left😝
 
MOB sez {and has some proof} that The vacuum ports on Carbs #1, #3, and #4 are plugged.
    And, (I guess) No Vacuum line runs to the secondary air system.

I think that on all the C-10's that I owned {4}, the vacuum ports on Carburetor's "1 and "4 were tied together with a Tee in the line.
  A vacuum hose goes from that Tee to the Secondary Air System.

Both of us are old/crotchety, and have fading memory...  :-[
      {Don't tell anyone I sed that}.

It occurred to me that because MOB lived in Virginia and I live in TeXaS, there is a possibility that the area's differ and the carbs are not the same set up...

Would some of you please look at your unaltered bikes and tell us;
  A}  3 of your carbs have plugs, and #2 has a hose that runs to the petcock.
  B}  only #3 is plugged,  #1 and #4  are T'd, and #2 has a hose that runs to the petcock.

Ride safe, Ted


 
:)) :))

funny you mentioned my Virginia experience.. you crotchety old man...

actually my '86 was a Cali bike, but I bought it used, and even tho it had the canister, (which I ended up removing, along with all the smog stuff) it had 3 plugs.. soo... I can't say for sure now... my COGZilla bike, '88, was from N. Carolina, and I know it had 3 plugs also...
 
"A" for mine , I changed it after smog delete .. I did not see a point in "t"ing the 2 carbs together . Is there a reason to do that ?
 
The question is; What was it "before" the Smog delete?

Also, if it was "A", and had 3 carbs plugged, what vacuum was attached to the Secondary Air control valve?

Ride safe, Ted
 
This weekend I fitted a voltmeter to the right side inner fairing and finished fitting 4" headlights to the crash bars.
Yes, I have even MORE lights on "Otto" and will have to take some pics if he passes the upcoming MOT inspection without them telling me to remove them.
The new lights are 4" Dominators that I split so I could mount one inside each of the crash bars.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorbike-Headlight-Headlamp-Halogen-Dominator/dp/B00S3ZPP7M/ref=sr_1_1?
They are fitted with LED H4 bulbs and I have a switch that enables their use with dipped beam, or not.
They always come on with high beam.
 
Bought set of wire connectors (bayonet)? that will be used to reconnect corroded pair that I believe is preventing Connie from starting. The clock would be on but when I tried to just go to on it would go out so traced it to this corroded red/white wire that came apart when I examined it. Will have plenty of time to fix it this weekend.
 
Fixed electrical issue at JBox cut out corroded bayonet connectors and flowed a little solder on twisted bare wires. Inserted an crimped both male and female connectors and applied some heat shrink to whole connection. Voila now I have power to lights and gauges. Installed Wix 3006 fuel filter. Clamped all fuel lines and breather tubes and fuel sensor. Used tie wraps to secure and protect cables and tubes.  Installed Murphs quick release tank bolts. Installed Tank Bra.  Cleaned up area around JBox and made sure all outside connectors were installed on mounting brackets. Fired her up after 2 months of working on her.  Finally applied registration sticker for 2021. Last one was 2012.  Will top off tank this evening and then have shakedown ride this weekend to make sure no fuel leaks or other issues. Then re-install all plastics. Life is good
 
I didn't put a new Radiator Fan Thermal Switch in... because the $50 part that showed up was actually an $8 knockoff. Thought I was saving shipping time going with a closer ebay seller... but at least paypal paid me back. New one's on it's way from a Kawasaki shop...  ::)

But, along the way, I did boil-test my thermostat... not fun getting it out without dropping the carb rack but it can be done.
 
Well, Amazing finally delivered the trip 7 tire and I got it mounted late in the day yesterday. Put it on this morning and spun her around the block. Gosh how I’ve missed our alone time together. I did bob the rear fender. Cut about 6” off so it stops almost flush with the side reflectors and the bottom of her bags. Think it looks better this way, and it’s a lot easier to roll a rear tire in, when on the center stand. Will post a pic when I reinstall the bags.
 
Did spark plugs, valve adjustment and replaced the fuel filter on my new-to-me 2002.
Spark plugs had a little oil on them, so I replaced all gaskets using the Murph Kit. It arrived 4 ahead of schedule - God bless Murph.
Did the hydrolock test, came back negative.
Nearly all the valves required adjustment (15k miles on the bike). Some were tight, some were loose. All are good now.
Bike previously had a sintered bronze-style inline fuel filter. Replaced it with the Napa 3006, which is significantly larger. Located it in on top of carb #2, and ensured that the fuel path is downhill and as smooth as possible.
Following 20 mile test ride: bike builds revs more eagerly and smoothly than before. Sounds much nicer doing it, too. Upto 70 mph (~4200 rpm in 6th), it is quite smooth. Anything above, and the bars start buzzing quite a lot. I realize that I need to do a carb sync before really drawing any conclusions - this test ride was mostly to make sure my fuel-filter routing wasn't causing any starving issues, and that none of my new gaskets were leaking.
Excited to continue bringing this bike to its potential.
 
I finally dialed in the T-Cro shift linkage that I bought 2 years ago off the forum for my 2001 C10. 
I also re-installed the saddlebag antler that a friend welded for me.
 
Well sports fans, its been awhile since I posted. I picked up a set of pipes. The seller said they would fit perfectly. HA! After cutting and welding the #4 pipe. Bending the bottom of the radiator, oil cooler, and coolant reservoir bracket. And bending the oil cooler lines. It is back together. YEAY! Oh yeah, I wrapped them with heat tape. Painted them high temp black. And took my Dremel tool to the exhaust ports. It is now very smooth in there. OEM pipes are 1 1/8 ID. These are 1 3/16 ID. New exhaust gaskets. And it all routes out thru a 4 into 1 collector to a small muffler. You can hear it at idle. And it gets a lot louder as the RPM's climb. I've put over 1,200 miles running back and forth to work. MPG is up. High 40's. And the fun factor? It is definitely enhanced!
 
Finally replaced the missing glove box latch nut.  It turns out that an Allen Bradley 22.5mm switch nut is a perfect fit.  I used the metal nuts that have teeth on them so I dont think they will be working loose.  Yay!  :great:
 
Rain forecast finally didn’t come true in Western NC. Wife asked me to go get some bread. 20 mile round trip to store turned into a 50 mile trip. :) ;)

 

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Put a shorter windshield on . Feels great in the heat and I'm surprised at how much more stable the bike feels at speed . Passing trucks is much less turbulent .
 

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cra-z1000 said:
Put a shorter windshield on . Feels great in the heat and I'm surprised at how much more stable the bike feels at speed . Passing trucks is much less turbulent .

Jason -

That is a nice looking ‘87!  :great: 
Are those MCE tip-over bars?  Also, did you purchase the windshield from Rifle or make your own?

Thanks,

Mark
 
MotoWojo said:
cra-z1000 said:
Put a shorter windshield on . Feels great in the heat and I'm surprised at how much more stable the bike feels at speed . Passing trucks is much less turbulent .

Jason -

That is a nice looking ‘87!  :great: 
Are those MCE tip-over bars?  Also, did you purchase the windshield from Rifle or make your own?

Thanks,

Mark

Those are the bars Murphs sells . Yes I ordered the 13 inch.windshield custom from Rifle . Already had the base . Expensive and took a long time to get but I'm happy .
 
Made the longest ride yesterday (on the Connie) since our self-isolation began in early March. All of my other rides have been rather short no-contact loops, except one. Did a curbside pickup (still no contact) at an Advance Auto about 6 miles away on Friday to pick up some wiper blades for the truck. Did that on the CL. With no luggage capability, bound them cross ways to the handlebars with some Velcro strips.

The 92 mile round trip I made was down to West Point for a no-contact pick up of a healthy load of oysters. The wiper blades for the truck were for a backup plan should it be raining. It wasn’t, so took the bike.

I know 92 miles doesn’t sound like much to many of you who continue to ride all over h--- and creation, regardless of the risks to yourself and what you might pose to others, but it was a milestone for me during this “new normal”.
 
I just finished up the "free power" grounding mod, and took a few mile ride. 12g wire from the ignition module to the battery and the same to the saddlebag bumper mount. What a crazy difference it made in cold starting and idling. It also seems to have a little bit more power while cruising on the highway as well. Can't wait to start it up at like 30 degrees in the next couple of weeks.
 
Used the por15 tank repair kit on my 95 project. Struggling to get all the metal flake out of the tank between rinses. At least after the water rinse before the degreaser/ cleaner. I’m hoping this gets easier with each treatment step.
 
Put my fuel gauge resistor mod to the test . Needle hit the red right at 200 miles and started to run out . Switched to reserve and rode about 10 miles for fuel . Put just over 6 gallons in . Before the mod she would hit red with a whole lot more fuel than that .
 
Installed highway pegs and fairing extenders. Good wind protection, but in summer I think the extenders will come off for comfort and cooling.
 
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