• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Re: What did You Do to your C-10 Today?

Installed the Givi brake light kit in my Givi trunk
 

Attachments

  • 445B0C12-4D1B-439E-BA6A-154FE41E3769.jpeg
    445B0C12-4D1B-439E-BA6A-154FE41E3769.jpeg
    115.7 KB · Views: 126
Did fork seals today . It's been about 8 years and one finally sprung a leak . I was going to change the bushings also but it seems they are no longer available for the early models ? Has anyone found a source for them lately ? It went together ok with the old ones this time .
 
I did mine this winter. I found a kit by All Balls on ebay. For the Upper bushing I had to file a small amount off the end of the bushing split line. Without theat the bushing was just a little to big around. I got my seals from Murphs.


ORDER NUMBER24-08034-93592
SOLD BYriders-resourceuser ID, click for member’s profile
ORDER TOTALUS $47.30
View order detailsKawasaki ZG1000 Concours 94-06 All Balls Racing Fork Bushing Kit

Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours 94-06 All Balls Racing Fork Bushing Kit
Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours 94-06 All Balls Racing Fork Bushing Kit
(402559165803)

Delivered on Tue, Dec 21
 
Put the battery in, got it out of winter storage and went for a ride, about 20 miles, MAN, what a difference between my new C-14! It's so simple though.
 
Today:

Been riding my 200k miles + ’95 on and off throughout the “winter” months, switching between it, the KLR, the CL77. The C10 is good transportation for large grocery list orders when I drag the trailer along to carry the bulk.

One place I ride occasionally for non-errand “work,” and park, has an off-camber road that is a little questionable for the bike staying upright once I get off …… even tho’ I tweaked the side stand when I installed the Soucy lowering rocker awhile back. Today, I dragged out the rosebud torch and tweaked it just a tad more for some added insurance. I’ll give it a test tomorrow should I go back by the place.

The “place” is the Hollywood Cemetery here in Richmond. My interest there is because I am awaiting delivery, and setting of a headstone I ordered for a great-granduncle that was killed during the Civil War. I started talking about this over 15 years ago, but with so many relatives spread all over hell and creation, it was hard to get the collective on board with what I was trying to do. A few months ago, I just said screwz-it and went ahead and started the process.

For the record: I am not a Confederate sympathizer. I was born/raised well above the Mason–Dixon Line. This individual was the brother of my Great-Grand-father who was from pre-WV, Virginia and followed him into battle like so many of our modern day troops followed their brothers into battle because they thought it was the right thing to do, or conscripted into service against their will. And that’s all I have to say about that; NOT open for discussion.

In the immediate picture below, you can see my KLR at the spot I usually park near the Confederate Pyramid in the cemetery that was erected to mark the Confederate section back in 1869.

Img_0379%20%282%29-X2.jpg


The pictures below it are the first tweak I did a couple of years ago, followed by today’s tweak.

Img_5353-XL.jpg


P4230002-XL.jpg


Beautiful day here for a ride.
 
Took the fairing extenders off and put the scoops back on.
Took off the last piece of plastic I've never touch after 15 years.
Trimmed a used fender I bought and installed it.
Think it looks much better
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    121.4 KB · Views: 140
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    107.9 KB · Views: 138
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    67.1 KB · Views: 139
Does Murph still sell a C-10 shock oil change kit?

I'm still working on getting a few "KMW" stickers made. I found a local print shop to do it, we'll see. So,I rode it over to my parents and then to the print shop so they could take some pics for the digital printing machine and then for a little 20 mile ride.
 
Sunday I officially made the transition from “come for the bike” to “stay for the people”.
Helped a fellow COGger load the “Blue Moo” onto a truck and watched it head off to the green pastures of Texas.
Now to farkle my new(to me) Nighthawk and make it my own. 8298B525-C114-4999-8263-C686A19747DE.jpeg
 
Getting the C-10 ready for the National. (It's my spare and has been setting)
Oil/brakes/J Box/carbs/clutch and brake fluid/shorty windshield/a wash and a wax...
It's ready to go.

NOTE: Hans (OtP Boss) and Ingegerd (Hans Boss 😆 ) are coming over from Sweden to ride it.
If you see them at the National, take some time and get to know them.
Good folks.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Arghhh! 🤬
Believe it or not, the mirror fell off when I was doing a check ride.
Does anybody have a spare right hand mirror?
Need it ASAP.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
Sunday I officially made the transition from “come for the bike” to “stay for the people”.
Helped a fellow COGger load the “Blue Moo” onto a truck and watched it head off to the green pastures of Texas.
Now to farkle my new(to me) Nighthawk and make it my own. View attachment 32687
And everything went smoothly. Meet the nice Wolters'. Glenn had installed a 7th gear so that made the long trip much more tolerable plus other nice accessories. Thanks Glenn!
 
Yahoooo!!

Please ship ASAP. I'd prefer to mount it before the trip and ride while there.
(ie; windshield/dash etc have to come off bike to get to the Mirror mount.)
Be sure to ship the right side one. I think it's the image you sent without the base.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: You no longer owe me beer. (I'll bring some)
 
Last edited:
Let er' rip. Tater chip..
Ain't skert.
Besides the screw was fine.
As I accelerated up the ramp onto the highway, the face ring of the mirror fell off and the mirror followed. 😵
Between that and a Peterbuilt, the rest is history...

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Not having a right mirror when your used to one is scary!
 
Last edited:
OOps, forgot to post.
ONO Bob had a mirror and sent it to me overnight.
Arrived/installed yesterday.

Thanx for the help!

Ride safe, Ted
 
Hooked the C10 up to my Cyclemate, and loaded up a wheelchair we borrowed from our church a couple of years ago when my wife became a semi-invalid after fracturing a couple of vertibrae due to her severe osteoporosis issue. Perfect fit and a lot less expensive (gas-wise) than firing up the Ram 1500.

She's had some improvement, then a set back after finding out some had re-fractured a few days ago via a new MRI. All we can do is keep plugging along and hope for the best.

Img_0765-XL.jpg
 
Last edited:
Didn’t work on the whole bike, but just a spare set of carbs I picked up several years ago. Good price and they appear to be in good shape with all the correct parts/jets and the like. Wrestled with the thought of installing overflow tubes back then, but kept putting it off. Finally decided to bite the bullet and just do it a week or so ago. It ain’t rocket science, but you do have to pay attention to what you’re doing to avoid screwing things up.

Basically followed the scheme others have done, drilling through the existing boss, then step drilling the hole to provide a good solid stop. I went ahead and tinned the 1/8” dia. brass tubing with a silver alloy solder to insure a good tight fit, but also treated the bottom 1/8” or so of the tube with POR15 tank sealer before pressing it into place. Being a belt and suspenders type, I did this to insure a good seal and to minimize the possibility of any leakage. If anything is going to stand up against the ethanol gas, it should be the POR15 concoction. The depth of the step and tube lengths were dimensioned so the end of the tubes sit 8mm above the mating surface of the bowl once they were pressed into place. Used a Pit Posse float bowl gauge to insure the proper height.

IMG_4968-L.jpg

Arbitrary setting shown, NOT the one I used.

After allowing the sealant to cure for a couple of days, I reinstalled the bowls on the carbs earlier today, then filled them with gas. We’re in the leak testing mode right now and they’ll sit through this for another couple of days before putting them to use. R&Ring carbs on the Connie is not my most favorite thing to do, but might as well get it done.

Img_0767-XL.jpg


Img_0768-XL.jpg


Img_0769-L.jpg
 
Last edited:
Didn’t work on the whole bike, but just a spare set of carbs I picked up several years ago. Good price and they appear to be in good shape with all the correct parts/jets and the like. Wrestled with the thought of installing overflow tubes back then, but kept putting it off. Finally decided to bite the bullet and just do it a week or so ago. It ain’t rocket science, but you do have to pay attention to what you’re doing to avoid screwing things up.

Basically followed the scheme others have done, drilling through the existing boss, then step drilling the hole to provide a good solid stop. I went ahead and tinned the 1/8” dia. brass tubing with a silver alloy solder to insure a good tight fit, but also treated the bottom 1/8” or so of the tube with POR15 tank sealer before pressing it into place. Being a belt and suspenders type, I did this to insure a good seal and to minimize the possibility of any leakage. If anything is going to stand up against the ethanol gas, it should be the POR15 concoction. The depth of the step and tube lengths were dimensioned so the end of the tubes sit 8mm above the mating surface of the bowl once they were pressed into place. Used a Pit Posse float bowl gauge to insure the proper height.

IMG_4968-L.jpg

Arbitrary setting shown, NOT the one I used.

After allowing the sealant to cure for a couple of days, I reinstalled the bowls on the carbs earlier today, then filled them with gas. We’re in the leak testing mode right now and they’ll sit through this for another couple of days before putting them to use. R&Ring carbs on the Connie is not my most favorite thing to do, but might as well get it done.

Img_0767-XL.jpg


Img_0768-XL.jpg


Img_0769-L.jpg

Looks like we're good. Haven't seen any weeps/leakage as of yet, but we'll let them sit since the next few days/week is going to be hectic - vinyl wrap all the house wood work, install gutters house and garage, dental exam to get fitted for some falsies, and a possible flight physical if the doc can fit it in.

Who said retirement was easy?
 
After posting of my 1/2 naked project, it was mentioned of protecting the oil cooler now thatC07E9B5F-7540-4F9D-B713-75F15B01C0D9.jpeg the lower & mid fairings were deleted. Just happened to have scrap pieces of stainless steel grid work left over from our behavioral health unit renovation.
1/4” holes so should have good flow. I’ll know better once I pull my rear tire and patch and plug the small hole in it 🤓
 
'95 -C10 : Replaced all the hydraulic fluids (clutch and brakes) w/Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid.
 
Last edited:
Tested the brake “work” this past Saturday when I hooked up the trailer and ran out to the local TSC to pick up 100# of coal slag grit to use with my HF 20# Abrasive Blaster. I used it once when I first got it back in 2016 to strip some paint off the tailgate of my large utility trailer so I could weld the gate mesh back down on the gate frame where it had broken loose. The mesh made it impossible to use a side grinder to do the job.

IMG_0951-L.jpg


Blaster when new:
Img_2136-L.jpg


I want to use the Blaster now to strip some of the paint off of my second Connie tank to inspect a couple of areas that appeared to have rusted through due to my leaving some protective vinyl pieces on too long. Unfortunately, they melded themselves into the paint due to my negligence and started causing problems. The intent of these “skins” was to protect the paint from scratches where your knees might press against the recesses in the sides of the tank. They were held in place by surface tension created by the water you used during the application process. I forget the name of the product, but they did a good job. I never took them off, and that is what caused the problem over a long period of time. When I did try to pull them off a couple of years ago, they resisted and took a lot of paint with them when they eventually broke free, and left large patches of paint bubbling up in others areas. A couple of places looked like the tank had actually rusted through. This is what prompted a search for a replacement tank back then, and I actually found 2. I wound up using a 1993 tank that was basically pristine, inside and out, but I gave it the POR 15 treatment before I put it on the bike; still using it now.

Anyway, curiosity got the better of me and figured I’d pull out the Blaster and clean off some of the paint to see just what the underlying metal looked like….. hence the need for some additional grit. This tool has a reputation for not working too well, and I found that to be true when I first tried to use it a few years ago. I kinda got it to do what I needed it to, but put it away before experimenting any further with it. The issue is that you have four (4) valves you need to properly adjust for optimum performance. The typically, abbreviated HF instructions basically tell you to fully open all but one of the valves, but that has you puking out a lot of grit. This will kinda sorta strip the stuff you want taken off, but you’re wasting a heck of a lot of blast media in the process. I played with it a little once I got back from TSC and hit the most suspect areas. After a couple of modified valve settings, I found some that worked really well and it took off the paint in a short period of time with minimal grit expenditure.

To my surprise, the underlying metal was in remarkably good condition with no evidence of rust-through or pitting anywhere. This tank is a definite candidate to be completely refurbished with the POR 15 treatment and a new coat of paint. There is one area in the LH front of the tank that has a dent where a former git-off caused the bars to make contact, so that will need to be addressed before the other work is done. It was actually more visible before I got rid of the paint.

IMG_0959-L.jpg


IMG_0957-L.jpg


IMG_0960-L.jpg


And that dent: I don’t do bodywork; just don’t have the talent or patience for it. However, I’m really tempted to pick up one of those Stud Welder Dent Repair Kits and see if I can pop that dent out myself. The semi-functioning side of the brain that still works sez to leave it to the professionals – but – how do you learn new things if you don’t step out of your comfort zone every now and again?

We shall see.
 
My father always said " if you dont try, you'll never learn what you limitations are. You may find you have a special knack for something"..

Those words have taken me to many interesting projects, and a 2nd career that still keeps me busy after 'retiring' ....lol
 
Got it out, started it up and went for a 25 mile ride, I miss that carbed smoothness and noise of the motor and shifting and riding by just looking at the tach and hearing the motor.
 
Got it out, started it up and went for a 25 mile ride, I miss that carbed smoothness and noise of the motor and shifting and riding by just looking at the tach and hearing the motor.
I actually like CV carbs. Easy to modulate throttle inputs. I've got enough to worry about on the street without having to think about my right hand.
 
Well, I pushed Free-Bird out of storage and down to the yard. After a couple of days of failed attempts at getting the battery to come back to life (it's been dead for a long time), I finally ordered one. She should be back up and running next week. The 14 is road ready I think now and it's about time to consider dragging the Green Mamba out of retirement too. I've been sitting on a WAY BIGGER turbo for a couple of years and.......
 
I'll try to take a couple later, but Free Bird is just an 06 painted white by previous owner (Dennis Bird) that has a Barney 99 fuel tank. Otherwise she appears stock. Her only real upgrade is efi.
 
I'll try to take a couple later, but Free Bird is just an 06 painted white by previous owner (Dennis Bird) that has a Barney 99 fuel tank. Otherwise she appears stock. Her only real upgrade is efi.
If I might ask: whose EFI?

When I went to a Kawasaki school up in Avenel, Jersey for the then, new Z1 back in ’72, one of the instructors was already working on installing an EFI system for the bike. IIRC – it was some VW-based variant. Never did hear how it turned out.
 
I've been EFI-ing C10s since 2009. I use the microsquirt ECU and build the rest using an assortment of components. My favs are Walbro pump, ZX636 injectors, Z1000 throttle body, C5 corvette fuel filter with internal regulator (only $20 at Autozone), I can run stock ignition or GM or Toyota smart coils with a C14/ZX14 trigger wheel and a single C10 pickup coil. I run the GM coils on my newer Turbo bike and a Dyna 2000 on the older one (the first EFI Connie). Free-Bird is simply a stock bike with EFI. I built one for Fred Boothe a few years ago which now belongs to Robert Holder. There are a few others I've built for others, but have done an even half dozen for myself. There are cheaper setups out there now you can buy nearly ready to go (Arduino based) but I like the squirt, it's done me well. The first one was a Megasquirt II, but later converted to the original Microsquirt though I still have the Megasquirt I assembled at the kitchen table that powered my first go at it in 2008-09.
 
All the info for those builds and the original turbo build were lost when the original Concours.org forums were nuked.
 
With fall here and weather bearable, I changed out some damaged parts that have been on the bike since I bought her in ‘07.
From the PO who was the first owner.
Pulse cover and shifter. Low dollar costs on both and makes me feel better
F28F115C-0469-4871-8C62-98A0B596F636.jpegDACB6240-8E3E-4F1D-AE7A-B4E6402DD0D5.jpeg857516A0-B438-45F9-983C-02D684A96860.jpeg
 
Picked up an 05 last week. I'm now starting the clean up and refurbishing work. The girl was very dirty from setting under a cover for the last 9 months but she fired up and ran fine bringing her home. So far we scrubbed the out side, cleaned up/ removed excess wiring and lights, changed spark plugs, repaired broken belly pan, repaired side cases, installed new clutch/brake levers and adjusted the shift lever position. We're now waiting for parts to arrive so we can change oil and final drive fluid, mount new fuel petcock, install new brake pads and reed valve block off plates.
Hope to have all the remaining work done in the next 2 weeks so we'll be ready to enjoy the great roads and fall weather in NC.
 

Attachments

  • blanche 1.jpg
    blanche 1.jpg
    175.3 KB · Views: 87
  • blanche 2.jpg
    blanche 2.jpg
    137.9 KB · Views: 89
Yesterday and today:

Adjusted valves 32,488 miles after last adjust.

2 exhaust valves out of spec by .001 at .006. The rest were still in spec. All were set to middle of the recommended ranges except for 2 intake valves that were already there.

Valve cover and cylinders 1 and 3 showed a little oil leaking so new valve cover gasket and sparkplug well gaskets.

New spark plugs, The last ones had been in there for over 93,000 trouble free miles! Didn't realize there was such a variety in spark plug ratings in the manual for the various years, countries / CA versions. Used new ones rated the same as the ones that gave me 93,000 miles, and probably couldn't gone further.

Checked compression (carbs still on with throttle plates wide open). #2, 3 and 4 were 180-185. #1 was at 177. I thought that was pretty good with carbs on and 109,000 miles on engine. Certainly not going into to engine at this point in its life.

Clean and re-oil air filter.
 
Last edited:
After taking her for a test ride after the tune up. Boy does she run great. She had been getting a little tired feeling, probably something to do with waiting 32,000 miles to check valves, clean air filter and change out on plugs with 93,000+ miles on them!

Took tank back off again to mount a light bar I used to have on the bike until a few years ago.

Finished up and went to take a test ride with the lights since it was dark. I backed the bike out of the garage into the driveway, started it up, and backed up in a semi circle to get the bike around the pickup truck, and pointing down our sloped driveway.

What's this semi circle of fluid about 6 inches wide following my trajectory? Its gas. Sigh, turn the bike off.

The culprit was a cracked fuel line - broken almost completely in half just above the 'T' fuel tube deep in the bowels between carbs 2 and 3. Lesson for the day; vacuum supplied to the petcock and an open fuel line results in LOTS of fuel flow.

Apparently one more tank R&R to do the light install was what it took for it to give way. This was transparent blue rated fuel line installed way back in March 2005.

Thankfully it happened in the driveway and not out on the road somewhere. Something to keep an eye on, or perhaps replace pro-actively from time to time.

Got it fixed and was able to test the driving lights - awesome visibility.
 
Last edited:
I guess I should add, I bought the wrecked 01 from Dan that was listed in the classified section up in Milwaukee. It may live again with a different frame. Settle down Rev.😉
 
I didn’t do all this today, but I am continuing today…
 

Attachments

  • 5C416BC8-BB47-44BB-906F-E664C9A62C6D.jpeg
    5C416BC8-BB47-44BB-906F-E664C9A62C6D.jpeg
    222.2 KB · Views: 106
I took it out and ran the fuel out to almost EMPTY. Got home, took off the tank, emptied what I could and then turned it upside down to shake out whatever was left, let it sit to dry a bit, sloshed in some stabilizer/water remover, shook the tank around, put about a half gallon of fresh fuel in, rode it up to the gas station and filled it with fresh fuel. I've only ridden it 200 miles this season as I got the C-14 in March, and, I have not drained the tank fully in about 4 years so this has got to do some good, and, BTW, it ran great. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bud
I guess I should add, I bought the wrecked 01 from Dan that was listed in the classified section up in Milwaukee. It may live again with a different frame. Settle down Rev.😉
I have frames. :) w/titles
Just sayin'.
 
FreeBird finally got her new battery. She's been sittin' awhile. She could use a little freshenin' all over I reckon.
 
Because we've gotten down in the low 20's for the last couple of nights, I decided to install the fairing extenders because I seem to find myself making early morning jaunts out running errands before the temps come up a tad. While I had the bike up on the lift, decided to go ahead and change the oil and filter to take advantage of putting the garage heater to use for the first time in several years.

Going to make a late evening oyster run T'day Eve, so the extenders should help to keep things a little more comfortable.

IMG_1073-XL.jpg


IMG_1074-XL.jpg


IMG_1075-XL.jpg
 
About 3 weeks ago, I finally put fairing extenders on mine for the first time.

It makes a big difference, especially for your feet. In the past, riding in the 30' and 40's was doable but my feet would always get cold.

After the extenders were installed, I went for an hour ride in the high 30's and my feet did NOT get cold and remained very comfortable.

Very nice improvement. I've had them for a while now and shoulda been using these all along for colder weather. Better late than never.
 
I've used them since I got my first Connie (an '86) back in '94, or so. It's always a mental wrestling match when to put them on, and when to take them off. They were always a welcome "enhancement" when commuting during the period we consider the winter months down here.

An electric vest was a revelation (DA - why did you wait so long?) back when I finally picked up my first Widder vest back in '86 when I had an '84 GPz 750. Sadly, I never installed any grip heaters until after I retired and no longer commuted...... even tho' I had a set of Kimpex sitting in a drawer for close to 10 years. They were the kind that used a dropping resistor to switch between "low" and "high" heat output. Thought that to be a little kludgy, so never put them on a bike. Eventually found a dual element version through Dual Star, and even stuck those in a drawer for a couple of years, finally installing them on my KLR in 2014. They worked well with just a toggle switch to go between LOW-OFF-HIGH settings, and picked up another set of similar design for the Connie. Sold the Kimpex on eBay.

I installed a varible controller for the Connie's heaters with the control mounted on the dash. Did that as an energy savings scheme since I was also using an 80-100w headlamp bulb, and a Gerbings jacket (also with a controller). That became a moot point after I installed the ZZR1200 alternator. That would have made more sense with the KLR's anemic charging system, but the Gerbings jacket controller follows the jacket, so I use it with the KLR too. Also, all lights of any consequence on both bikes (and trailer) have been switched over to LED types. Every little bit helps.

Enough yada yada - I've rambled too long.

Stay warm.
 
Believe the extenders came with the euro bikes?
Yes, that was my underfstanding too. Some of the euro bikes also had the heated carbs to prevent carb icing...... kinda the same effect as the carb heat we have on our planes, but with a different technique.

Both of my bikes constantly iced up in the colder winter months, as did an MG I had with the dual SU carbs. All depended on the humidity too. Many times I had to just pull over and allow the engine heat to thaw them out so the bike would start running halfway decent again. Sometimes I'd get a repeat, and sometimes not.
 
Last edited:
After extended sitting and mouse chewing attack on my 2003 I finally am caught up (i think):

Pulled nearly all plastic and repaired
  1. rear tail fixture, lamps and signal wires
  2. front right signal wires, clock wires
  3. right running/blinker fixture mount
  4. airbox repair and new filter (mice destroyed original)
  5. Replaced all hoses and lower o-ring, coolant
  6. plugs and wires
  7. carb overhaul and sync
  8. New carb screw kit
  9. fuel hoses
  10. manual petcock conversion and remount
  11. mouse trap perimeter (6)

Took quite a bit of weekends....but She runs better than ever! Thanks to the group for the knowledge bank recorded and accessible from past hard work, trial and error and persistence!
 
Nice pipes! Wish they had those 20 years ago when I first got my 2001.

I moved the front tire a little to stack some more wood in the garage for the woodburner since its parked till about mid- April.:)
 
I put a Ninja 250 coolant tank in the r/s panel and ran all the hoses properly and the brackets I made look great. It turned out so nice and no more bending over with a light to see the antifreeze anymore. Who ever came up with that mod needs a big thank you.

Dean
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bud
I put sintered metallic pads and steel braided brake lines. I also bought new ignition wires and installed them. Could definitely notice a difference in the way she runs. Like significant. So if your riding around with 20+ old coil wires I suggest replacing them. I bought a few feet of 7mm coil wire from an eBay seller. After I bought the wire another seller that had 100ft roll of accel wire agreed to sell me 4 feet of wire for like 10 bucks. I doubt it makes a difference but they will be yellow and cool looking so I’ll be doing it again pretty soon. Next up is installing the 36mm carbs and zx cams.
 
I ordered a new windshield from CalSci - the XL for my "new to me" 2006 C10. Mounted it up and it was just a little too tall. I trimmed 2" off the top this afternoon and it's much better. Love the vented windshield - almost no wind buffeting in the saddle. Riding with an open face helmet is very comfortable. Very happy with the product!

IMG_4014.jpeg
 
Larry buck use to make and sell a dash shelf, makes it easier to mount the important farkles. I don't know if he still does

No longer available , but I wish someone would either continue to make them or post some details and pictures to possibly make one .
 
Not literally today, but a week ago today.

I finally had the chance to take a nice 200+ mile round trip ride over towards the western part of the state to look at a bike that needed reassembled. It was 34 deg. in the a.m. when I left, and it didn’t really warm up all that much for the return trip later in the day. Fortunately, the brutal winds coming over the ridge at Afton Mountain in the morning had subsided somewhat and were just strong gusts when heading back east.

This was the first long, non-local ride I’ve made in over a year, and it was really nice to finally get out for a spell.
 
List of things done over the past few weeks. 310mm ebc rotors
Ebc pads
Steel braided brake lines
7mm accell plug wires
Factory pro needles
118 main jets
Allen head carb screws
Progressive 465 rear shock
Bled clutch and installed washers on 3 springs
Adjustable cam sprockets 7 degree advance on the exhaust and 2 degrees retard on the intake
Advanced the timing plate 4 degrees
New valve cover gasket
Voltmeter/charger/thermometer
Aluminum Gpi radiator 30% larger
Replaced the fan. Was making a tinny noise from 4,000-5,000 rpm.
Painted the radiator grill wrinkle red
Painted the oil cooler and it’s grill fresh gloss black
Led bulbs for the cluster
Adjusted horn
Red striping.
Pulls a lot harder from 3,000-8,000 and doesn’t fall flat on top. Pulls really hard 4,000-6,000
Have a few more mods on top of that and
A lot more mods to come.
Been riding it almost everyday up in the northeast
B88E4D7B-C4DB-425B-A9CE-DCFBAEBFED6A.jpeg
 
Extremely nice looking ride. Very nice mod list. Looks like you got pipes also. Great color.

Dean
I’ve got a parts bike, a zx1000 cylinder head with cams and 96 gpz1100 carbs 36mm carbs. All the carb boots to make them fit properly. A 7th gear unit as well. Plan on building a larger displacement, higher compression engine with custom ground cams although these mods I’ve recently done including the free power mod and foam in the airbox have really woke this thing up. If you can put the effort into adjusting the cam timing it really helps throttle response. Thanks to sisf and all his development over the years of course. Wish I could support his business but he doesn’t offer much for the c10 anymore. My next mod though will be fitting a 95 jeep Cherokee led headlight with angel eye into the headlight bezel And making a custom light to try to bring the look of the bike more up to date.
 
Hello
I love all these changes, I have more questions if you don’t mind .
The ZX1000 cylinder head fits without modification on the GTR 1000 engine ?
Why the '96 camshafts ?
What are the three washers added to the clutch ?

Bernard
 
Hello
I love all these changes, I have more questions if you don’t mind .
The ZX1000 cylinder head fits without modification on the GTR 1000 engine ?
Why the '96 camshafts ?
What are the three washers added to the clutch ?

Bernard
So I bought the cylinder head because it had the cams. It’s the same design as the gtr/zg just has different mounting holes. You have to modify it to make it fit. I likely won’t use it on this bike. I’m using the 96 gpz 36 mm carbs instead of the zx1000 carbs because the airbox from the gpz1100 doesn’t have ram air and the bikes are closer in weight overall so jetting them should be easier. They come with stiffer slide springs and I’m assuming the main jets will almost be spot on. Pilots are the same. The washers on the clutch springs just add a little pressure on the springs so the clutch is less likely to slip. You could get the same or better results buying heavy duty clutch springs. I was just in there inspecting the star spring and figured why not.
 
Merci pour vos explications, je trouve que 7° d'avance sur l'échappement c'est beaucoup, j'ai modifié le mien à 3,5° et je trouve que c'est pas mal, mais je ne sais pas tout aussi bien ;)

image%2F2190700%2F20211010%2Fob_5c923a_20211008-192418.jpg
 
Merci pour vos explications, je trouve que 7° d'avance sur l'échappement c'est beaucoup, j'ai modifié le mien à 3,5° et je trouve que c'est pas mal, mais je ne sais pas tout aussi bien ;)

image%2F2190700%2F20211010%2Fob_5c923a_20211008-192418.jpg
How did you do it? I used a degree wheel on the crank. Set the timing to the normal position. Removed the bolts, from the cam gear, locked it in place, then used a degree wheel on the crank and spun the engine in reverse 14 degrees. Then I installed the adjustable gear and tighten it down.
 
Prendre le pignon d'échappement comme modèle à percer, le placer sous le pignon à percer maintenu par une collerette Serflex avec les dents alignées.
tournez-le (en bas).
2,52 mm autour de la circonférence dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre et serrez le collier.
2,52 mm correspond à 3,5° sur le bord du pignon
Suis-je clair, le

image%2F2190700%2F20211008%2Fob_aed8e1_20211008-085239.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nothing really technical today. Just hooked up the trailer and picked up load of concrete pavers to make a small patio for a little wood burning patio fire pit - similar to:

cd3db4a2-7fbd-4f9b-a266-a14791db0cd7.66f95ffe38c81442b4962ddb44205628.jpeg


Only 81 deg. today, so what's wrong with THIS picture?

:unsure:
 
How about more pics of the headlight?
189C43CC-3531-457E-8459-244543A29BC6.jpegComes out blurry when I turn them on 95 jeep cherokee led lights. Had to modify it a little and space the headlight bolts to get it to lineup. It was 3.x inches deep so you need that size or thinner. Any 5x7 7x6 light will do if it’s thin enough.
 
Prendre le pignon d'échappement comme modèle à percer, le placer sous le pignon à percer maintenu par une collerette Serflex avec les dents alignées.
tournez-le (en bas).
2,52 mm autour de la circonférence dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre et serrez le collier.
2,52 mm correspond à 3,5° sur le bord du pignon
Suis-je clair, le

image%2F2190700%2F20211008%2Fob_aed8e1_20211008-085239.jpg
I wonder how you marked it and got the bolt holes lined up perfectly center. I would go the full 7 degree
 
Installed ST2 brake module.
Activates brake light during engine braking.
Can be flashing or solid.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bud
Nothing really technical today. Just hooked up the trailer and picked up load of concrete pavers to make a small patio for a little wood burning patio fire pit - similar to:

cd3db4a2-7fbd-4f9b-a266-a14791db0cd7.66f95ffe38c81442b4962ddb44205628.jpeg


Only 81 deg. today, so what's wrong with THIS picture?

:unsure:
No smoke
Flames atop wood chunks that appear unburnt
Black paint not blistered off after first use
 
Nothing really technical today. Just hooked up the trailer and picked up load of concrete pavers to make a small patio for a little wood burning patio fire pit - similar to:

cd3db4a2-7fbd-4f9b-a266-a14791db0cd7.66f95ffe38c81442b4962ddb44205628.jpeg


Only 81 deg. today, so what's wrong with THIS picture?

:unsure:
the projection of shadows is multidirectional
@+
bernard
 
Top