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t-rex crash bars

redline

Member
Member
i bought these crash bars last year. In Arkansas one of our guys crashed his bike and I heard that he was complaining about these crash bars hitting the road.
When I looked at mine I just couldn't imagine that I lean that hard. Of course my wife said right up front , those look dangerous. go figure.
Anyway, hauled up the mountain this morning and when i came down in one of those 20 mph right handers, i felt the bike hitting something really hard. I knew it couldn't have been the foot peg, know what that feels like. when I got home I looked at the crash bar and sure enough that is what hit the road.
Now I am trying to decided if i should remove the front ones or if it is ok to leave them even if they could occasionally touch the ground. I'm thinking I'll remove the front bars but wondering what ya'll think or if you had similar issues.
 

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Our foot pegs (or ones I have at the least) have scratchers and lift up with pressure. Even at that if you’re hitting the scratches on your pegs need to change technique or geometry of machine.

These ‘crash’ bars bolt direct to the frame.

When riding aggressively in corners the bars touching the ground do nothing but unload your tires. They’re not like the foot peg scratchers or a knee down.

The ingredients here: mixing aggressive cornering and dragging the frame will yield only a disaster - it’s only a matter of time.

For goodness sake change your riding style or remove the frame pieces striking the ground.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
you didn't give me an option :) can't change my riding style, that's why i have this baby. I'll get rid off the front bars. I honestly did not think this is possible. btw since you mentioned the pegs, I don't recall those hitting the ground when this happened.
Anybody interested in front crash bars, lightly used?
 
Sure sounds like ur front suspension is too soft for ur aggressive riding style. Bike hasnt been lowered in the triple tree any, has it?

Very odd that ur hitting the cages b4 ur footpegs..
 
Just talked with Kuzin' Ted.
I think his drag is a combination of soft suspension, too much lean, too little weight transfer, Engine guards that stick out a little bit too far, and riding "too fast" on the street.
I know that we push the envelope (and I admit that I'm no Saint) but we have to remember; The street isn't a race track.
Keep that in mind at all times.

Kuzin' Ted recently added preload to his rear shock, but not the front.
Was on a familiar road and prolly going faster than normal.

NOTE: The pre-load changes the ride height, but the springs aren't any stiffer.
(ie; The rear springs on a C-14 are notoriously a bit too soft)

He's going to watch some Suspension sag videos and set his sag.
And hopefully, be a bit more careful on the street.

I've talked with Robert about the T-Rex Engine Guards in the past. Bekuz; He's been dragging them.
We've talked about modifying his but hadn't got around to it.
We knew that they can touch before the pegs if you're "REALLY" heeled over.
Few ever lean this much. Hadn't heard of anyone else dragging them.
NOTE: The engine guard's must stick out beyond the fairing to protect it. So, not much room for adjustment.
(Look how close Kuzin' Ted was to dragging the fairing).

Ride safe, Ted
 
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In Arkansas one of our guys crashed his bike and I heard that he was complaining about these crash bars hitting the road.

I was following right behind this same person at a Jennings track day a couple years ago. His left rear bag guard hit the pavement hard, stood him upright & appeared to scoot him over approx. 6". I thought he was going down that day, luckily he didn't.
 
So the TREX guards that I think you are speaking of were prototyped on my bike. I've always liked them but have experienced a great deal of grounding on the right side when cornering aggressively. I have had success to some extent by getting my weight shifted to the inside and low helping to minimize the bike lean. The problem is that it takes a great deal of focus and dedication to do so. I spoke with Tom the owner of TREX about my concern early on and his comment was that normal riders don't ride this kind of bike to that extent. I will say that historically Tom is very interested in rider input to help improve his product and would suggest that all who have constructive criticism be open with him and let him know your thoughts. He is a very good guy and takes input seriously and well.
Now for my final thought. It's my fault in that I have recognized the issue for years and have suggested that I have the ability and equipment to repair and or re design the angles used to cure or minimize the issue and did not act on it. So please note that I accept that knowing there was an issue and not acting on it makes me responsible. In June at the Nationals in Eureka Springs I lost focus and let the bike get over on the guards lifting the tires off the ground in a right hander and low sided into a ditch full of small boulders. In doing so totaled (tore in half) my bike and sustained 6 fractures. My only reason to post this is to encourage those that have these guards to be vigilant and decide if they ride at a pace that makes this a concern. If you do I would suggest that you modify as needed to make effective for your riding style. Just my opinion and as most who know me generally don't consider that valid take it for what it's worth
 

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Now for my final thought. It's my fault in that I have recognized the issue for years and have suggested that I have the ability and equipment to repair and or re design the angles used to cure or minimize the issue and did not act on it. So please note that I accept that knowing there was an issue and not acting on it makes me responsible. In June at the Nationals in Eureka Springs I lost focus and let the bike get over on the guards lifting the tires off the ground in a right hander and low sided into a ditch full of small boulders. In doing so totaled (tore in half) my bike and sustained 6 fractures. My only reason to post this is to encourage those that have these guards to be vigilant and decide if they ride at a pace that makes this a concern. If you do I would suggest that you modify as needed to make effective for your riding style. Just my opinion and as most who know me generally don't consider that valid take it for what it's worth
Thank You for sharing this!

I hope you are healing up well - glad to hear you ‘speaking’ - could have ended differently. Any prognosis / timeline to get back on 2 wheels?

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
2andblue
Thank you for your concern. Sad to say this was a mild wreck compared to the last. I'm doing ok. Replaced the bike yesterday with 2010 blue Connie. Now need to get it properly farkled and get a helmet to replace the exploded one so that I can try again to find a way to keep up with Ted. Ride safe.
 
Replaced the bike yesterday with 2010 blue Connie.
OK, now that you have the correct color, your problems should be over. (just ignore the red nonsense in the post below.)

Get some Top Blocks from Murph and transfer the saddle bag protectors from your old bike (they look like they survived the boulders maybe?) or talk to your buddy Tom at T-Rex and see if he'll sell you just the rears.
Yes the silver wheels show dirt more, but when only halfway clean they really do look better than those black ones :poop:.
Heal fast and well. (y)
 
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So the TREX guards that I think you are speaking of were prototyped on my bike. I've always liked them but have experienced a great deal of grounding on the right side when cornering aggressively. I have had success to some extent by getting my weight shifted to the inside and low helping to minimize the bike lean. The problem is that it takes a great deal of focus and dedication to do so. I spoke with Tom the owner of TREX about my concern early on and his comment was that normal riders don't ride this kind of bike to that extent. I will say that historically Tom is very interested in rider input to help improve his product and would suggest that all who have constructive criticism be open with him and let him know your thoughts. He is a very good guy and takes input seriously and well.
Now for my final thought. It's my fault in that I have recognized the issue for years and have suggested that I have the ability and equipment to repair and or re design the angles used to cure or minimize the issue and did not act on it. So please note that I accept that knowing there was an issue and not acting on it makes me responsible. In June at the Nationals in Eureka Springs I lost focus and let the bike get over on the guards lifting the tires off the ground in a right hander and low sided into a ditch full of small boulders. In doing so totaled (tore in half) my bike and sustained 6 fractures. My only reason to post this is to encourage those that have these guards to be vigilant and decide if they ride at a pace that makes this a concern. If you do I would suggest that you modify as needed to make effective for your riding style. Just my opinion and as most who know me generally don't consider that valid take it for what it's worth
considering, glad you made it through that. I'll either remove or see if my neighbor can modify this. He's a welder and knows his stuff, me, not so much :) . I think I'll shift more body weight and actually something I have been wanting to practice and seemed more than what i needed, until today. reading through total control and trying to refine my skills. Will take Ted's advice and adjust the suspension to fit my weight and style.
 
Just talked with Kuzin' Ted.
I think his drag is a combination of soft suspension, too much lean, too little weight transfer, Engine guards that stick out a little bit too far, and riding "too fast" on the street.
I know that we push the envelope (and I admit that I'm no Saint) but we have to remember; The street isn't a race track.
Keep that in mind at all times.

Kuzin' Ted recently added preload to his rear shock, but not the front.
Was on a familiar road and prolly going faster than normal.

NOTE: The pre-load changes the ride height, but the springs aren't any stiffer.
(ie; The rear springs on a C-14 are notoriously a bit too soft)

He's going to watch some Suspension sag videos and set his sag.
And hopefully, be a bit more careful on the street.

I've talked with Robert about the T-Rex Engine Guards in the past. Bekuz; He's been dragging them.
We've talked about modifying his but hadn't got around to it.
We knew that they can touch before the pegs if you're "REALLY" heeled over.
Few ever lean this much. Hadn't heard of anyone else dragging them.
NOTE: The engine guard's must stick out beyond the fairing to protect it. So, not much room for adjustment.
(Look how close Kuzin' Ted was to dragging the fairing).

checked the peg, did not touch the ground
 
See my Post #5.
Engine Guard drug at 4:30.
{Don't show that to your wife}.

Ride safe, Ted
I read up on the adjustments. fixed my rear preload and damping front preload is at 10 mm and according to fred's article from 2012 that should be a good start for my weight etc.
the damping adjuster looks like i should be able to turn those by hand? they don't move. how do you work those for the front? do i have to loosen the screw on top first? Sorry didn't want to mess with it and figured be safer to ask
 
another question, how often do you change your fork oil? not seen anything in the manual but most videos i reviewed they say about every 20,000 miles?
 
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