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Temp gage not working?

davezike2685

Member
Member
Hi all, I've done two 100 mile rides on my new '06 . One at about 65 degrees F and one around 50-55 F. Temp gage needle never made it out of the cold bars. But started well to the left. I have checked my fan works by jumping the wires. I cannot believe the engine is that cool. I can feel it's a hot motor. Seems like it should have gone at least to the mid way on the gag as in the typical vehicle. I have never had the fan come on. Please let me know if you have had similar and how you resolved the issue. Thx in advance. - Dave
 
Hi all, I've done two 100 mile rides on my new '06 . One at about 65 degrees F and one around 50-55 F. Temp gage needle never made it out of the cold bars. But started well to the left. I have checked my fan works by jumping the wires. I cannot believe the engine is that cool. I can feel it's a hot motor. Seems like it should have gone at least to the mid way on the gag as in the typical vehicle. I have never had the fan come on. Please let me know if you have had similar and how you resolved the issue. Thx in advance. - Dave
That's normal for me.
 
That's normal for me.
Well that's welcome news! After further research, everyone on COG referred to it as "coolant gage," thus I got no search hits for "temp gage". Curious to see how she goes in the murderous miserable Savannah summer. 🥵
 
The only time I see the fan kick on mine is if I'm in slow traffic. If I'm moving above 20mph or so, the passive airflow is enough.

My gauge does get up to about the middle when the fan kicks on.
 
That is a smart looking bike! I love the half naked look. Might have to spring for some new pipes, mine are rust buckets under the fairing. I'd be lowering the image of the forum going half naked.
The pipes are off a ‘06 from Arizona. Mine had rusted at the crossover due to Northern New England Winters. When I got the “new” pipes and moved back south, I took them to JetHot and they ceramic coated them. Shame to hide them under the fairing🤭
 
The pipes are off a ‘06 from Arizona. Mine had rusted at the crossover due to Northern New England Winters. When I got the “new” pipes and moved back south, I took them to JetHot and they ceramic coated them. Shame to hide them under the fairing🤭
What did that cost?
 
What did that cost?
I was “lucky” because when I originally priced them, the staff quoted me for the 2 in 1 as opposed for the 4 in 2.
I didn’t know this and when I dropped them off and paid for them, the staff person who took my payment noticed the discrepancy. She mentioned it to the owner and he said” it’s what he was quoted, it’s what we’ll charge him.” Total class act as far as I’m concerned. IIRC, it was around $180.
 
I was “lucky” because when I originally priced them, the staff quoted me for the 2 in 1 as opposed for the 4 in 2.
I didn’t know this and when I dropped them off and paid for them, the staff person who took my payment noticed the discrepancy. She mentioned it to the owner and he said” it’s what he was quoted, it’s what we’ll charge him.” Total class act as far as I’m concerned. IIRC, it was around $180.
I like people like that. What should it have been?
 
I have 2 C-10's My 2005 runs at the middle of the gauge. The 99 comes up just to the cold line. Above the line and the fan comes on. At speed it drops back to the first line. It used to run at the middle until the wire broke at the sensor. I repaired the wire and then it went to its current position. I replaced the sensor with no help. Removed gauge cluster and cleaned the terminals on the gauge no help. I just know that it is going to indicate near the cold mark and go with that. If you ride in cool temps and the rain you can see the thermostat opening and closing on the temp gauge. A little higher is where the fan comes on and off.

I added a small LED light to tell when the fan is running. I have had a couple of failed fan temp switches on my 99 and if the fan doesn't run in stop and go traffic the temp gauge will go higher and you had better do something.

Go for a ride and when you get home let it idle for about 5 to 10 minutes and make sure the fan comes on. It should be about 2 or 3 needle widths above the normal cursing position. The fan should be able to cool the engine back down to where it shuts off. Now you will know where the normal operating range of your gauge is.
 
I was “lucky” because when I originally priced them, the staff quoted me for the 2 in 1 as opposed for the 4 in 2.
I didn’t know this and when I dropped them off and paid for them, the staff person who took my payment noticed the discrepancy. She mentioned it to the owner and he said” it’s what he was quoted, it’s what we’ll charge him.” Total class act as far as I’m concerned. IIRC, it was around $180.
For reference, I got a quote from Jet Hot to coat the Vance and Hines 4:1 header and mid-pipe for my ZX600-C last year and it was about $550. That was the high-end finish, since I wanted matte black, and they don't have that color in their classic silver coating.

I was feeling cheap, so I ended up just doing a thorough job cleaning and stripping rust (using phophoric-acid based gel rust-remover) and then priming and painting them with high-heat header paint, and then curing it in the oven. It's certainly not as nice as Jet-Hot or other proper ceramic coating, but it honestly turned out a lot better than I expected, and has been holding up great. I haven't seen any burning off or rust coming through, even right up by the engine.

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