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Things I've noticed while riding my Connie part 2

N

nomoreusmc6802

Guest
Guest
So I've put 2,320 miles on my Connie, and I've noticed a few things.

1. The dash is wiggly and it rattles. This bothers me. Is it normal? I ask because when I try and move it parked, not much.

2. Lubed up the choke cable and it's still stiff. It works but stiff.

3. I slide on the Corbin seat, and my family jewels are intimately acquainted with the fuel tank. I need some traction. I haven't had this problem since I was younger.

Unknown farkels - hand guards have wires running to them and have this plastic ring that acts like a throttle lock whenever I try and put it back. Hi\off\low switch seems to confirm heated grips, but no effect on the grips. But nothing is running to the battery except for the charger plug. This should not be tapped into the harness right? Too high of amp draw? Speaking about things that shouldn't be in the wiring harness there are 3 lighter plugs in the dash, rusted to inoperation. Not sure what to do about them.

Pegs - they look like murphs pegs, how can I confirm? Are there any that are lower?
 
Good Observations - I've had my C10 since January, and have put about 500-600 miles on it.

My bike is a Half-Naked variety. The lower fairings are missing. My upper fairing rattles a lot. I"m wondering how much structural rigidity/support for the upper fairing is missing without the lower fairing and mounting hardware?

My "choke/enricher" cable is also hard to operate, even though I've had the carb bank off several times and have lubed and exercised the slide actuator bar for the enricher circuit. The cable moved freely and with little effort when the cable was disconnected from the carb bank. I guess I"ll have to focus on the lever actuator on the handlebar and lube that up just to see what happens.
 
jcaputo58941 said:
Good Observations - I've had my C10 since January, and have put about 500-600 miles on it.

My bike is a Half-Naked variety. The lower fairings are missing. My upper fairing rattles a lot. I"m wondering how much structural rigidity/support for the upper fairing is missing without the lower fairing and mounting hardware?

My "choke/enricher" cable is also hard to operate, even though I've had the carb bank off several times and have lubed and exercised the slide actuator bar for the enricher circuit. The cable moved freely and with little effort when the cable was disconnected from the carb bank. I guess I"ll have to focus on the lever actuator on the handlebar and lube that up just to see what happens.
Click to expand...
I'm getting my shoulder replaced in july\aug so I gotta get my miles in. Plus it helps that I tend to run 4-550 Miles a day. Not hard to do in the Ozarks.
 
1) If you are talking about the instrument cluster, it is mounted with rubber bushings that tend to dry out and shrink with age. I added some small rubber washers to the bushings to make up for the shrinkage - tightened it right up. If you are talking about the fairing itself, you'll need to disassemble some things to check/tighten the mounting points.

2) Check the routing of the cable. If there is stress on it anywhere it will make it difficult to move. Bar risers can add to this problem. Don't want to lube it too much though, because you want it to stay where you put it. There is a small plastic friction block in the lever for that purpose.

3) I had that same problem with the stock seat on my'02. I bought a Russel Daylong seat and it solved that problem. It has a flatter seating area.

As a general rule, you don't want to wire any high draw accessories into the factory wiring. This causes it to run through the j-box and that can lead to bigger problems. Running an accessory fuse block from the battery is a better idea. Murph used to sell those. If you search the forum you can find threads on that. Personally, I would disconnect the three rusted lighter plugs if they are not already.

Murph's pegs are wide, flat and low. Not sure you can find any lower that wouldn't be a problem during cornering.

I use a product called Refinish Restorer for the black cladding on my Chevy Avalanche. It works great on the bike too. I've tried others, but this lasts the longest.


HTH.
 
Is this the ring on your throttle?
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If yes, easily adjustable with a screw driver..

On you're heated grips, disconnect the wires from the grips and check for voltage.
If yes, proceed to check out grips.
If no, find out where power is attached and check for blown fuse.

Best to use switched power so that you don't kill your battery.
Heated grips don't pull a heck of alot of amperage.
Should be ok thru the accessory wiring.
But do install a fuse in the wire.

On your slick seat, use dirt bike procedure.
ie; Push back with your heels/arms when braking.
 
Last edited:
jcaputo58941 said:
Good Observations - I've had my C10 since January, and have put about 500-600 miles on it.

My bike is a Half-Naked variety. The lower fairings are missing. My upper fairing rattles a lot. I"m wondering how much structural rigidity/support for the upper fairing is missing without the lower fairing and mounting hardware?
Click to expand...
The main fairing is attached to the main fairing stay which is attached to the frame by just 3 bolts.

One of them attaches to an off center lug on the front of the steering stem. If that bolt gets loose it can work on that lug, sawing through it due to the vibration of it being loose, potentially leaving you with only the 2 side bolts holding up the main fairing.

Check around that bolt - if there's a bunch of reddish dust around it, its probably loose. It can be tightened from above without removing anything if you finagle the wrenches just right.
 
connie_rider said:
Is this the ring on your throttle?
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NEW Sound Off Recreational #MCVICO Vista Cruise Control/Throttle Lock | eBay

Have you ever noticed after a few miles of riding at a steady speed how much your hand and wrist fatigue?. Well, I have good news, you aren't alone. The folks at Sound Off Recreational Inc. have devised an affordable throttle holding device to help you deal with this issue.
www.ebay.com

If yes, easily adjustable with a screw driver..

On you're heated grips, disconnect the wires from the grips and check for voltage.
If yes, proceed to check out grips.
If no, find out where power is attached and check for blown fuse.

Best to use switched power so that you don't kill your battery.
Heated grips don't pull a heck of alot of amperage.
Should be ok thru the accessory wiring.
But do install a fuse in the wire.

On your slick seat, use dirt bike procedure.
ie; Push back with your heels/arms when braking.
Click to expand...
Maybe20230531_121315.jpg20230531_121440.jpg20230531_121347.jpg
 
On the choke lever (enrichiner) . Those levers tend to get real loose and don't hold in the on position . Many folks try different methods to get it to stay put . There's a friction block in there that crumbles from age . It's possible that a previous owner attempted fix is causing that stiffness . You may need to open up the housing to see what's going on . My fix for the loose lever is to simply place a small zip tie in next to the lever . Puts just enough pressure on it to make it stay put. .
 
Last edited:
Nomoreusmc you have the NEP throttle lock.
Unless you took it apart for the photo, take it off and throw it away as you have missing pieces.

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Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
Nomoreusmc you have the NEP throttle lock.
Unless you took it apart for the photo, take it off and throw it away as you have missing pieces.

www.ebay.com

NEP Motorcycle Cruise Control Throttle Lock for Dual Cable Throttles 7/8" CC3 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEP Motorcycle Cruise Control Throttle Lock for Dual Cable Throttles 7/8" CC3 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
The only reason I haven't is because the heated grip wires go thru a hole in the thing and I didn't know if it was a part of the grips or not. I do want a throttle lock but I need all the parts! Lol
 
When you buy from murph, do you have to supply the goldwing pieces or does it come complete? Do you have to readjust the rear brake\shifter?
 
So I just went for a short ride after snugging down the fairing frame anchor bolt. What a difference!!! All the rattles are GONE!! So much better! I’m going to check the fairing anchor bolts on my ‘85 Gold Wing…
 
Stasch said:
The main fairing is attached to the main fairing stay which is attached to the frame by just 3 bolts.

One of them attaches to an off center lug on the front of the steering stem. If that bolt gets loose it can work on that lug, sawing through it due to the vibration of it being loose, potentially leaving you with only the 2 side bolts holding up the main fairing.

Check around that bolt - if there's a bunch of reddish dust around it, its probably loose. It can be tightened from above without removing anything if you finagle the wrenches just right.
Click to expand...
I owe you a beer and a cigar sir. Zero rattling anymore but I have to say that the fairings push around the bike alot more. Just the fairings used to move, now it's the whole bike. After a 458 mile day I understand about the being around trucks on the highway thing, it's kinda a different feeling. Next time I have the plastics off I am going to replace that bolt 4sure.
 
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