Just hit 7000kms on oem tires and they are done. putting on pr2s. is there any difference changing tires on the c-14 compared to the c-10. I did my own on the 10 but with different drive system on the 14 should I have it done by someone else. or is there something special I should watch for, any help would be welcome.
-
WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE ABLE TO POST? REGISTER FOR COG MEMBERSHIP
All registration must be done through the club's main webpage: To register / join COG, click here
For instructions to convert to full membership, click here
-
Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
tire changes
- Thread starter cycle2
- Start date
No it's pretty much the same. The only real differences are if you have ABS, watch out for the ABS sensors when removing the wheel. It's not a big deal, but just be aware and protect them. Also when actually changing the tires. The TPS sensors are under the valve stem in the wheel. Be careful not to hit them when removing or installing the tires on the wheels. If you damage it, it could be a costly mistake. Just be careful when the tire iron is in that area of the wheel. Good luck, Bob Bionic Bob COG & AMA member First C14 CDA member #0220 2008 C14 & 2003 Mean Streak
Lots of dealerships are breaking the tire pressure sensors, and they aren't cheap to replace. I think the problem occurs when removing the second (lower) bead on the tire. It is easy for the bead to get hung up on the sensor and you may not know it if you aren't paying close attention. Then as you continue to pry the tire off the rim, the bead yanks on the sensor till it breaks off. What I do is try to start removing the tire bead at a point about 15 degrees clockwise from the sensor with the lower bead lifted up over the sensor, and work in a clockwise direction, so when I finish, I am almost right at the sensor. This seems to help prevent the bead from hanging up on it. Same thing when I install. Once you install the first bead, make sure to drop the bead over the sensor so it is position below it before you start installing the next bead. The trick is to make sure the bead is over the sensor before you start prying. The problem will occur when the bead is forced to transition from below the sensor to above it. If you start with the bead already above it when removing the tire, you won't have a problem. Also, be careful when you break the bead. Don't break the bead at the valve stem, so you don't hit the sensor and break it.
Ken,
Also be very careful no to contact the brake rotor with the tire bar. The rotor carriers are easily bent. I remove the top rotor when changing the front tire and put the rotor down on the rear tire. Also use liberal amounts of Ru-glyde on the beads, especially when seating the rear tire after install.
Also be very careful no to contact the brake rotor with the tire bar. The rotor carriers are easily bent. I remove the top rotor when changing the front tire and put the rotor down on the rear tire. Also use liberal amounts of Ru-glyde on the beads, especially when seating the rear tire after install.
oldsawfiler
Crotch Rocket
This vid includes a clip of Colin changing a rear tire in his garage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7QmqUGkYHU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7QmqUGkYHU
Everybody knows that getting the old tire off is the hardest part. As you fight/struggle with the tire iron, its too easy to wreck the tire pressure sensor.
I use a "surgical" procedure to change my tires. Everyone, including a number of HD, Suzuki and Yamaha owners, who has tried it have been amazed it how well it works.
Beware that this procedure is to be used to install new tires only and will not work if you want to repair and reuse the tires.
1. I bought my tires online and they also sold nylon rims guards to protect the rim from the tire irons. The package I bought had two rims guards each about 5" long. A number of the reviews said to buy more that one package but you actually only need one as in one not one package of two.
2. Build a frame using 2x4's with the inside of the frame big enough to clear the brake rotors and wide enough to support the rim of the tire. This is a great chance for you to use the Kreg joint gadget you just bought.
3. Build a bead breaker. I attached a short 2x4 to one of the studs in my garage with the bottom of the 2x4 high enough off the floor so that I could use it as a fulcrum for the bead breaker lever. I then position the tire on the 2x4 rotor frame on the floor in front of the fulcrum and use a long 2x4 lever and a small block to push against the tire wall near the bead/rim. After a few strokes of the lever, the bead comes free/brake.
NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS PROCEDURE TO REMOVE THE TIRE WITHOUT BRAKING THE BEAD
4. Now the Surgery Use a utility knife to cut the side walls on both sides of the tire. Once the tread has been separated from the side wall, you can
discard the tread. Before you say its to tough to cut the sidewall, give it a try and you'll be amazed at how quickly you accomplish the task.
5. To remove the bead, first position the bead deep into the hollow of the rim and then pull on the bead in the opposite direction. The bead will come off with out using any tools. Repeat for second bead.
6. Now that you know how easy it is get the bead off the rim its time to install the first bead of the new tire. With the rim sitting on the brake rotor protection frame, position the bead of the new tire in to the hollow of the rim and slide the whole bead on. No tools needed. You can almost throw the tire onto the rim and first bead will just about fall on.
7. The second bead is a little more difficult but you know that the secret is to keep the opposite edge of the bead into the hollow of the rim. I use a mixture of dish soap and water to lubricate the bead to help it on. I position the rim and tire so that the fill valve/tire pressure sensor are pointed toward me to be sure the valve/tire pressure sensor as away from any area where I will use the tire iron. Next I slide the 2nd bead on to the rim so that it is positioned deep into the hollow of the rim then I kneel on the tire to hold it in position. With the rim protector 180deg opposite where I'm kneeling, I insert one tire iron. Because I know the bead should slide over the rim easily, I wiggle the tire iron front to back and help the bead over the rim by walking my knees along the rim. Yes it is that easy.
I have used Dynabeads in the past for wheel balance and they have worked well. This time I found a dealer who did a spin balance on both wheels for $15
Have fun
I use a "surgical" procedure to change my tires. Everyone, including a number of HD, Suzuki and Yamaha owners, who has tried it have been amazed it how well it works.
Beware that this procedure is to be used to install new tires only and will not work if you want to repair and reuse the tires.
1. I bought my tires online and they also sold nylon rims guards to protect the rim from the tire irons. The package I bought had two rims guards each about 5" long. A number of the reviews said to buy more that one package but you actually only need one as in one not one package of two.
2. Build a frame using 2x4's with the inside of the frame big enough to clear the brake rotors and wide enough to support the rim of the tire. This is a great chance for you to use the Kreg joint gadget you just bought.
3. Build a bead breaker. I attached a short 2x4 to one of the studs in my garage with the bottom of the 2x4 high enough off the floor so that I could use it as a fulcrum for the bead breaker lever. I then position the tire on the 2x4 rotor frame on the floor in front of the fulcrum and use a long 2x4 lever and a small block to push against the tire wall near the bead/rim. After a few strokes of the lever, the bead comes free/brake.
NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS PROCEDURE TO REMOVE THE TIRE WITHOUT BRAKING THE BEAD
4. Now the Surgery Use a utility knife to cut the side walls on both sides of the tire. Once the tread has been separated from the side wall, you can
discard the tread. Before you say its to tough to cut the sidewall, give it a try and you'll be amazed at how quickly you accomplish the task.
5. To remove the bead, first position the bead deep into the hollow of the rim and then pull on the bead in the opposite direction. The bead will come off with out using any tools. Repeat for second bead.
6. Now that you know how easy it is get the bead off the rim its time to install the first bead of the new tire. With the rim sitting on the brake rotor protection frame, position the bead of the new tire in to the hollow of the rim and slide the whole bead on. No tools needed. You can almost throw the tire onto the rim and first bead will just about fall on.
7. The second bead is a little more difficult but you know that the secret is to keep the opposite edge of the bead into the hollow of the rim. I use a mixture of dish soap and water to lubricate the bead to help it on. I position the rim and tire so that the fill valve/tire pressure sensor are pointed toward me to be sure the valve/tire pressure sensor as away from any area where I will use the tire iron. Next I slide the 2nd bead on to the rim so that it is positioned deep into the hollow of the rim then I kneel on the tire to hold it in position. With the rim protector 180deg opposite where I'm kneeling, I insert one tire iron. Because I know the bead should slide over the rim easily, I wiggle the tire iron front to back and help the bead over the rim by walking my knees along the rim. Yes it is that easy.
I have used Dynabeads in the past for wheel balance and they have worked well. This time I found a dealer who did a spin balance on both wheels for $15
Have fun
I would recommend NOT using soap and water to lube a tire bead as it can slip under accel or braking and actually come off the bead. I personally prefer Sprayway Glass Cleaner or some other streakfree foaming cleaner that will not leave a soapy residue... that and it's slick as a whistle still.
I have used the 2X4 bead breaker trick for a long time and would suggest some slight modifications to the way it was just described. Either use a piece of 2X3 rectangular tubing as the wall portion and angle cut the end as to allow it to "bite" into the wooden lever. OR, if using wood on the wall portion, then nail a few 16d nails into the wood leaving maybe an inch exposed and then cut them off 1/4" long with your dremel. This will prevent you from eating that lever like Colin does a few times inthe previous video. Been there Done that, got the bridgework done.
And as was mentioned... if you're going to cut the sidewall MAKE SURE to have busted the bead already. Otherwise it is ALMOST impossible to do... ALMOST... I mean REALLY ALMOST impossible. DAMHIKTIJK
I have used the 2X4 bead breaker trick for a long time and would suggest some slight modifications to the way it was just described. Either use a piece of 2X3 rectangular tubing as the wall portion and angle cut the end as to allow it to "bite" into the wooden lever. OR, if using wood on the wall portion, then nail a few 16d nails into the wood leaving maybe an inch exposed and then cut them off 1/4" long with your dremel. This will prevent you from eating that lever like Colin does a few times inthe previous video. Been there Done that, got the bridgework done.
And as was mentioned... if you're going to cut the sidewall MAKE SURE to have busted the bead already. Otherwise it is ALMOST impossible to do... ALMOST... I mean REALLY ALMOST impossible. DAMHIKTIJK
obrienl
Bicycle
After reading my earlier post, I think this is a more easily understood way to ask the question. I don't have an issue breaking beads or spooning tires on or off. I am just trying to figure out if these tubeless tires can be dismounted like dirt bike tires. Left bead taken over the left side of the wheel and the right bead taken over the right side of the wheel then pulling the wheel out of the tire. On dirt bikes, removing tires like this takes soooo much less effort and time.
Or do these tires make the above action impractical?
I don't have an issue breaking beads or spooning tires on or off. I am just trying to figure out if these tubeless tires can be dismounted like dirt bike tires. Left bead taken over the left side of the wheel and the right bead taken over the right side of the wheel then pulling the wheel out of the tire. On dirt bikes, removing tires like this takes soooo much less effort and time.Or do these tires make the above action impractical?
Tactical_Mik said:
Lonnie, in a word, no.
Adder: buy a Mojo-lever, these greatly reduce the profanity quotient when changing tires AND won't mar your rims.
http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm
obrienl
Bicycle
Thanks, I have all the equipment already including a mojo bar. I was just wondering if changing tires in the above described way would make it easier. I don't think I am going to try it that way. I'll just change them like everyone else. I would hate to have both beads on opposite sides of the wheel just to have to put them back in to remove the tire. Talk about swearing!
obrienl
Bicycle
Just changed to Angels today. They showed up at 1130 and I started at about 1200, finished at 1430. Would have been about 30 minutes faster but, I was so excited, I forgot to balance the rear tire!
For reference I just changed them the "standard" way and all went well. Next time I will have tire lube on hand. Thought I had some, I was wrong and had to go dry. Put in my new Murphs angled valve stems, all is well. Love the stick of those angels too.
For reference I just changed them the "standard" way and all went well. Next time I will have tire lube on hand. Thought I had some, I was wrong and had to go dry. Put in my new Murphs angled valve stems, all is well. Love the stick of those angels too.
I have the tar snakey strings and a cheap air pump under the seat for on road tire repair. When I was ready to change my rear tire, BEFORE taking the OLD tire off, I hammered a nail in and let it go flat. Then practiced the on road fix. It held air and now I know I can do it. I got a little tube of glue with the "snakes" - probably a good idea to keep an unopened tube with the kit.
Flat broke! hahaha ;DJimmymac said:
Hey, just an idea for your drum... split a length of heater hose and slip it over teh top edge. Then you won't have to worry about your rags falling off. Personally I like that drum idea an will be on the lookout for one immediately. Thanks Jimmymac!
I have a photo gallery showing how I change tires using a Harbor Freight tire changer and MoJo bar. THe MoJo bar is the cats behind for both removing and mounting new tires. Makes it a snap. I can remove a tire in about 10 seconds and mount a new one in under 30 seconds with it.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tirechange
I use this set up to change GoldWing tires which are arguably among the most difficult motorcycle tires in the world to change. The C14 tires are a breeze in comparison to them.
I also recently purchased an "ugly yellow thing" from NoMar to help hold the bead from running on the rim.
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/10
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tirechange
I use this set up to change GoldWing tires which are arguably among the most difficult motorcycle tires in the world to change. The C14 tires are a breeze in comparison to them.
I also recently purchased an "ugly yellow thing" from NoMar to help hold the bead from running on the rim.
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/10
