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Tire Changing Newbie

2

2andblue

COG Executive Director
Member
Ok - Committing to start changing / balancing my own tires. Lots of information on the site.

Possibly a tire changer in the future, unless I can be convinced otherwise, I would like to start with the best manual tools.

While an actual tire changer (may be that is best) what is a list of the ‘made for the job’ tools I need to change my tires myself?

One note: Prefer to avoid buying Kawasaki over-priced tools if possible.

Will provide my review for others considering changing own tires. Dealership prices too high when changing tires 3+ times a season...
 
I use large C-clamps and a Motion pro bead breaker/tire spoon tool to break the beads. Clamp foot on the sidewall and padded screw on the rim edge. Then I ty-wrap the bead tight, with the help of the clamps. I use about 8 locations around the tire. On a rear it will take 2 ty-wraps at each location. The last 3 tires I just did I used a 1" web soft tie around the tire and a cable hoist to pull the tire off the rim. I clamped the wheel to a 4x4 deck support making sure the brake disc is not contacting anything. I made a 2x4 frame to set the wheel and disc into so the disc will not be damaged when I put the tire back on. Ty-wrap the new tire beads together and set the tire in the sun for about 15 min. Make sure you have the rotation direction correct and start the tire back on. Make sure the bead goes into the grove in the wheel. 3 or 4 locations with the spoons and my tires popped on. I use Windex for my tire lube. I use balance beads but I do not have TPMS.

I have tried many different ways to break the bead and spoon the tire off the rim and the above method is the easiest I have found.
 
Jpd11958 said:
I use large C-clamps and a Motion pro bead breaker/tire spoon tool to break the beads. Clamp foot on the sidewall and padded screw on the rim edge. Then I ty-wrap the bead tight, with the help of the clamps. I use about 8 locations around the tire. On a rear it will take 2 ty-wraps at each location. The last 3 tires I just did I used a 1" web soft tie around the tire and a cable hoist to pull the tire off the rim. I clamped the wheel to a 4x4 deck support making sure the brake disc is not contacting anything. I made a 2x4 frame to set the wheel and disc into so the disc will not be damaged when I put the tire back on. Ty-wrap the new tire beads together and set the tire in the sun for about 15 min. Make sure you have the rotation direction correct and start the tire back on. Make sure the bead goes into the grove in the wheel. 3 or 4 locations with the spoons and my tires popped on. I use Windex for my tire lube. I use balance beads but I do not have TPMS.

I have tried many different ways to break the bead and spoon the tire off the rim and the above method is the easiest I have found.
Click to expand...
Silly question - have you remounted a tire that you used the C- Clamp to break the bead? Any damage to the tire?

If I am going to start changing my own tires I may opt to swap out a partially worn set for a new if a trip is coming, remount the partial for a shorter destination, known amount of miles.
 
2andblue said:
While an actual tire changer (may be that is best) what is a list of the ‘made for the job’ tools I need to change my tires myself?

One note: Prefer to avoid buying Kawasaki over-priced tools if possible.
Click to expand...

I personally don't think a machine is any better or quicker unless it's air operated like the shops use. I average 4 sets of tires a year & have probably installed 40+ sets on my C14, plus my other bikes not to mention some for other people.

3 good tire irons 16 - 18" long, a yellow thing (it's the best), homemade wooden box to set wheel on & a way to break the bead. Made bead breaker is homemade. Wheel balancer, I like Marc Parnes myself. A spray bottle with really soapy water.

Laying the tires out in the hot sun before mounting makes a huge difference, if winter time put them near a heat source.
My irons are Stockton from Cycle gear.

Only takes a little practice to learn technique.
 

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Cliff can change a tire faster with his set up than I can with my HF tire changer.
So, I built a wood frame like his and mostly use that for tire changes.
Haven't built his bead breaker yet, but need to and really need to get one of those yellow things as it ,makes things easier.. {forget the name}

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Cliff has lots of practice...
 
Just Cliff said:
I personally don't think a machine is any better or quicker unless it's air operated like the shops use. I average 4 sets of tires a year & have probably installed 40+ sets on my C14, plus my other bikes not to mention some for other people.

3 good tire irons 16 - 18" long, a yellow thing (it's the best), homemade wooden box to set wheel on & a way to break the bead. Made bead breaker is homemade. Wheel balancer, I like Marc Parnes myself. A spray bottle with really soapy water.

Laying the tires out in the hot sun before mounting makes a huge difference, if winter time put them near a heat source.
My irons are Stockton from Cycle gear.

Only takes a little practice to learn technique.
Click to expand...
Thank You Cliff for the above information / tips.
Looks JPD is using a c-clamp lieu of your lever - BTW I like that lever LOTS of force!
 
connie_rider said:
really need to get one of those yellow things as it ,makes things easier.. {forget the name}
Click to expand...
Yellow thing is the name!

2andblue said:
Thank You Cliff for the above information / tips.
Looks JPD is using a c-clamp lieu of your lever - BTW I like that lever LOTS of force!
Click to expand...
Forgot to mention the 2 blocks pictured are to set on the edge of the box to hold the 1st bead up in the valley of the rim. If it drops down to the lower rim bead forget it, the second bead ain't going on. I need to make a one piece frame to set over the rim as the blocks fall occasionally.

Could probably make a similar bead breaker out of 2 x 4's, if no metal ability.
 
The clamp does concentrate the pressure in a smaller area. I haven't remounted a tire yet, but the tires I have taken off show no sign of damage. I did one with the clamp screw on the sidewall and the screw wanted to move down to contact the rim. That did put a small mark on just the edge of the rim. So I switched the sides of the clamp and had one with a plastic protector on the screw foot.

With the ty-wrap method you are putting both beads off and on at the same time. The tire stays in the rim grove easier. I would struggle with the irons if I did one at a time and personally did more damage to the rim. There is a technique do using irons and I didn't do enough of them to remember what worked the last time.

Early on I saw a pic of a wood bead breaker and tried to do it that way, My fasteners pulled loose, broke and didn't do the job. It was hard to hold the tire down and push down on the lever at the same time. Plus too much flex in the wood. The motion pro bead breaker by its self is suppose to work but I have had mixed results. With the clamp I am moving the tire away from the edge of the rim then can use the motion pro tool to expand the area and a couple of more turns on the clamp it goes over the bead ridge. Cliff I like the look of the metal one but I don't have any place to mount one or the supplies to make it. Breaking the bead can be the hardest part of the job.
 
Removal is a pain, BUT I found a trick for reinstallation. So I tried this last year, taped the tires, and it seriously took more time to use the soap and clean up then to mount the tires. Tires popped right on with very little effort.


I struggled with my first set, and was seriously surprised at how fast this was! I used more than his 4 places, I think I used 6 or 7 places where I taped, but it snapped right on. 10k miles later, they have never given me any issues. A new set of tires are being installed next week, might try to get some video to share.
 
I've always been impressed by Cliff and everybody that does these things by hand. I think it depends on the person and their physical abilities. I'm sure I could have done it even 5 years ago, but now I'm older and fatter and my hands hurt and are weaker. I've done approximately 50 sets for myself and others on the no-mar and I'm glad I didn't wait.

The cable ties and duct tape is a nice trick but probably won't work on a tough tire. I've got a brand new roadsmart 4 setting out there waiting, and it's so stiff that I can't collapse it without a clamp.
 
Any considerations for the TMS module? Is there any ‘practical way’ of hitting the TMS unit with the tools of the trade?
 
I recently added a Duckhead tire changer tool to my tire tool stash.
Will use it with my HF changer.
Haven't tried it yet, but I like the idea.
www.ebay.com

2 New Tire Changer No-Mar Nylon Mount / Demount Duck Heads Free US Shipping | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2 New Tire Changer No-Mar Nylon Mount / Demount Duck Heads Free US Shipping at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

I just found this. My home made duckbill handle is similar to the one in this video. Also have the small 3/4" part to pass thru the bearings.


Ride safe, Ted
 
Video looks like a neat setup.

Think I am in for a bit of learning the hard way then see what options I can do to improve.

Seen some YouTube videos of guys changing sport touring tires without a prob and only the simple hand tools - of course their forearms look like they could roll a frying pan up so maybe that’s a helper.. 😂
 
2andblue said:
Seen some YouTube videos of guys changing sport touring tires without a prob and only the simple hand tools - of course their forearms look like they could roll a frying pan up so maybe that’s a helper.. 😂
Click to expand...
Those arms aren't needed trust me, I'm not a big guy. However I am capable of rolling a paper plate! 😅😂🤣
 
As I sed earlier, Cliff can change a tire faster with his set up, than I can with my HF Machine.
I've changed several tires at his shop, and never quite get it right. (He steps in, corrects my errors, and it goes EZ.
NOTE: I've built a wood frame like he uses, and take it to Rally's for me/others to use.

That sed; I also have a HF machine.
I bought it for changing tires on my Model T Ford. {Model T Tires are far harder to do than bike tires)
The HF machine is better than doing them by hand!
I also tried to use it on bike tires and it does work, but not EZ.
Hoping to modify it {like the video above} as it's hard for me to work on the floor with a set up like Cliff's.
Getting old sux.....

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I think we each do things a little bit different...which means there are several good ways to do it. Just pick what seems best and try it.

First, if you have one locally, I'd order your tires through Cycle Gear. If you find you got in over your head, you can take them back to CG and they'll mount them for you for $25 each.

Breaking the bead seems to me to be the hardest part so far. I used Motion Pro Bead Pro steel tire irons for the first several sets. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0536 Note they are out of stock. There's a lot of supply chain issues, so don't leave your purchases to the last minute thinking things will be available like normal.

I bought a TUSK PORTABLE MOTORCYCLE TIRE CHANGING STAND AND BEAD BREAKER. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...rcycle-tire-changing-stand-and-bead-breaker-p I'll be trying it out on Saturday.

1622057047743.png

For rim protection, I just cut pieces out of a plastic milk container.

When installing the tire, here's a couple things that worked well for me.

First, warm the tire. Some put it outside in the sun. In the Puget Sound area, that could take months. Some people put a heat gun or hair dryer inside the tire and cover it. I had some halogen work lights that I never use because they put out so much heat. I put a piece of cardboard under the tire, set two of the lights inside and covered it with another piece of cardboard. (I checked occasionally to make sure the cardboard wasn't going to catch on fire. The heat made the rubber really soft. The tire slipped over the rim with only a couple inches needing to be spooned over.

Instead of the yellow rubber thingie, you can use a simple Harbor Freight spring clamp. It worked perfectly to keep the bead down where it belongs.

1622057418747.png

Lastly, if things don't seem to be going right, take a step back and rethink what's going on. Go back to the basics. It shouldn't be hard.

Oh...one more thing. You might want to check the balance on your rims with the tire off. I've used balance beads, but I don't even have any weights on either my front or rear wheel right now. And it's been that way for the past several tires. It just doesn't seem to need any balancing. When I have used the balance beads, there hasn't been an issue with my TPMS.

Chris
 
Daboo said:
I think we each do things a little bit different...which means there are several good ways to do it. Just pick what seems best and try it.

First, if you have one locally, I'd order your tires through Cycle Gear. If you find you got in over your head, you can take them back to CG and they'll mount them for you for $25 each.

Breaking the bead seems to me to be the hardest part so far. I used Motion Pro Bead Pro steel tire irons for the first several sets. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0536 Note they are out of stock. There's a lot of supply chain issues, so don't leave your purchases to the last minute thinking things will be available like normal.

I bought a TUSK PORTABLE MOTORCYCLE TIRE CHANGING STAND AND BEAD BREAKER. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...rcycle-tire-changing-stand-and-bead-breaker-p I'll be trying it out on Saturday.

View attachment 29354

For rim protection, I just cut pieces out of a plastic milk container.

When installing the tire, here's a couple things that worked well for me.

First, warm the tire. Some put it outside in the sun. In the Puget Sound area, that could take months. Some people put a heat gun or hair dryer inside the tire and cover it. I had some halogen work lights that I never use because they put out so much heat. I put a piece of cardboard under the tire, set two of the lights inside and covered it with another piece of cardboard. (I checked occasionally to make sure the cardboard wasn't going to catch on fire. The heat made the rubber really soft. The tire slipped over the rim with only a couple inches needing to be spooned over.

Instead of the yellow rubber thingie, you can use a simple Harbor Freight spring clamp. It worked perfectly to keep the bead down where it belongs.

View attachment 29355

Lastly, if things don't seem to be going right, take a step back and rethink what's going on. Go back to the basics. It shouldn't be hard.

Oh...one more thing. You might want to check the balance on your rims with the tire off. I've used balance beads, but I don't even have any weights on either my front or rear wheel right now. And it's been that way for the past several tires. It just doesn't seem to need any balancing. When I have used the balance beads, there hasn't been an issue with my TPMS.

Chris
Click to expand...
I have a old freezer converted to a smoker
I put the tire in there and warm it up good. What a huge difference compared to just putting it in the sun.
 
Thanks for all the comments, I am learning!

CG mount tires - did not know this - paying dealer at the least 3x this CG price...

Chris I’ll be interested to hear how that Tusk works out for you Saturday.
 
I’ve gotten practice when I went thru tires on my DR650. Thank goodness I don’t have to worry about pinching tubes anymore.
My biggest hassle was setting the bead. Tried the strap method, bouncing the tire and now for my front tire, RS 3, I’m going to attempt a modified air chuck with a ball valve.
Good luck and keep at it.
 
1622144349761.png
This is what I use and with a hitch adapter and my 3/4 ton truck it doesn't go anywhere. I only paid $600 a couple years ago, but I guess everything is going up like crazy? My local dealer charges $60 to swap a tire, so between my son's 2 bikes and my connie it paid for itself pretty fast.
 
One day I'm going to find a used pro tire changer. I saw one on Craigslist in Cincinnati for $350 last year I think.
 
One more variation:)
Bead
breaker and truing stand I think are Harbor Freight. Cycle gear on the plastic rim protectors. Adhesive backed weights from tire shop (maybe O'Reilly's) and soapy water from kitchen! Long tire iron(s) really help with that first bite of the bead...but...don't get too greedy, small bites as you go around or you might hurt the rim. Have fun...builds character:)

P.S...watchout for that beadbreaker handle...it will clock your noggin' if you let it!
 

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I'm sooo lucky
One of my best buddies has a pneumatic tire machine in his garage right down the street.
And hes the type of guy that's on his feet all day doing stuff, looking for stuff to do.
Ride safe in 2012
Nick 2014 C-14
 
HF sells a $40 automotive tire changer with a $35 attachment for motorcycle tires which has worked great for me. I first tried the manual routes as previously mentioned which worked but with a lot of effort and sweat (for me anyway). Suggest also getting a small air compressor to pop the beads after tires are mounted.
 
I'm probably going to get blasted for offering an "unnecessarily expensive" option...but I've had a Nomar installer in my garage for years and have been pretty damn happy with it.
 
rogracer said:
I'm probably going to get blasted for offering an "unnecessarily expensive" option...but I've had a Nomar installer in my garage for years and have been pretty damn happy with it.
Click to expand...
What model? Do you change tires for others? Can make that thing work for you!

I have no shame in paying for good tools - hate paying big money though for poorly engineered crap tools though...
 
2andblue said:
What model? Do you change tires for others? Can make that thing work for you!

I have no shame in paying for good tools - hate paying big money though for poorly engineered crap tools though...
Click to expand...
I have an older model...but it's basically like the present Classic HD with all the accessories. It has to be bolted to the floor, so you need to have a "spot" for it. I consider it a well made piece of equipment and it hasn't given me any trouble. I do occasionally have to replace the nylon pry-bar tips. I haven't really heard much in the way of criticism of NoMar products, other than people saying you can cobble together miscellaneous things that can do the job for a lot less money. Personally, I think what they offer is reasonably priced (get the package deal that includes the clamps, balancer, etc.). YMMV. I just mount my own or friends tires...nothing for money!
 
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rogracer said:
I have an older model...but it's basically like the present Classic HD with all the accessories. It has to be bolted to the floor, so you need to have a "spot" for it.
Click to expand...
Horsenuts above mounts his to 3/4T truck hitch receiver. Now that’s mobile and effective!
I would, like you, need to mount to the floor - probably flip our Kia Sorento over.. JK..
 
I realize I am a bit late to the party here but I picked up a slightly used Olamax tire changer a short time ago. Made in Poland, not China, imagine that. I found it on craigslist and had to drive a hundred miles for it. I got it mainly because there is a tutorial on youtube by a mechanical engineer who is also a mc enthusiast. Great video. I pd. 300 for it with a few extra tire irons and a gallon of slickum. It works beautifully. You can order from Poland for I think 275 but 75 shipping and it takes 6 or seven weeks. I'm not the worlds fastest learner and it works really weel. I set it up on a welding table and no working on knees.
 
I bought the No Mar pro package 11 years ago, started changing tires for riders in the area, paid for itself the first year. I've changed a lot of tires with it and the machine has been solid! I like the fact that I didn't have to hook air or electricity up to it. the only things I've broken, or worn out, are the demount tips.
 
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