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Torque spec question.

runnerb0y

runnerb0y

Member
Member
A quick question for the brain trust.

Just finished installing some Top Block tip over protection (crash bars). Buttoning it all up and I think I have a discrepancy between the instructions Top Block included and what the service manual indicates.

In the two attached images are left side and right side m10 bolts/screws used to secure portions of the Top Blocks. When I removed the stock bolts (also m10 bolts), they were a bit of a chore. I didn’t have to stand on a wrench, but they were definitely TIGHT.

If I’m reading my manual correctly, I think those bolts are supposed to be torqued to 59 newton meters. The Top Block instructions say 34 newton meters. That seems a tad light since as far as I can tell, they are upper engine mounting bolts.

Anyone know for sure?

TIA,
~Jeff
 

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Jeff, I agree with you. When I installed mine the original bolts were very tight, partly I think due to the thread locker used when it was assembled way back in 2011-12 and never having been removed before I did it. I went with the factory specs since as you say they are the top engine mount bolts.

I did clean off the old thread locker and put some new blue locker on. Also, the right side only has the one bolt and tends to move under tightening so I did it pretty snug until I got the TBRs on well, then torqued it down to the final setting...

Sounds like you got it just fine.

Cheers!

Bob Gilbert
 
gilbysan said:
Jeff, I agree with you. When I installed mine the original bolts were very tight, partly I think due to the thread locker used when it was assembled way back in 2011-12 and never having been removed before I did it. I went with the factory specs since as you say they are the top engine mount bolts.

I did clean off the old thread locker and put some new blue locker on. Also, the right side only has the one bolt and tends to move under tightening so I did it pretty snug until I got the TBRs on well, then torqued it down to the final setting...

Sounds like you got it just fine.

Cheers!

Bob Gilbert
Click to expand...
Bob,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply.

I think I’m okay with what I’ve done. Sounds like we came to the same conclusion. Cleaned up the bolts and laced them with a little red thread locker and torqued to the service manual’s specs.

Be well,
~Jeff
 
Arg!! Not red... use the blue. Red supposed to be permanent. If u ha e to remove them heat the bolts first before putting a wrench to them...
 
Konehead34,

I applied it very sparingly. They had a ton of red on them when I removed. I’m not worried about removal. I know some tricks.
 
All should be good. I noted on the first install of the TBRs on my 2013 C14 and on this 2012 install that the back of the bar where the mount connects to the rear engine through bolt that over time it would rub against the ABS of the lower cowling piece. Normally I don't think it would be a big deal but in my case I had painted the lower cowling a glossy piano black and noticed the little horizontal hash mark where it would rest against the plastic. Other than that there were great. I even ordered an extra set of the Delrin pieces to carve up so that I could mount some extra pegs to use on longer rides and that worked pretty well.

Safe Riding!

Gilbysan, aka - Fat Ninja
 
When I bought the Top Blocks for my 2011, you needed to wire the funds to Tatiana in France, and the installation instructions were in French. No way I recall, the torque specs, but I did have them off several times for valve checks and recall using the service manual specs for those bolts.
 
In my experience, the "orange" thread application from Kawasaki is difficult to remove, needs to be cleaned out, and does not have a correlation to other thread locking agents, i.e. blue, red, semi permeant, or permanent. After market torque specifications are possibly due to fasteners of different make up, i.e. stainless steel vs. aluminum.

Be carful when deviating to recommended torque values unless you have a deeper knowledge.
 
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