• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

TPMS orientation question

runnerb0y

Member
Member
I’ve got a 2012 C14. The TPMS batteries have finally died. I took my wheels to a shop and had them remove the TPM sensors. I’ve replaced the batteries in both sensors and I’m getting ready to take them back to the shop for reinstallation.

Naturally, when the shop removed the sensors, no one noted which “direction” the sensors were installed into the wheel.

My question is; Other than ensuring I get the TPM sensor installed into the wheel it came out of, is there any orientation that needs to be observed? The sensor has a rounded end and a flat end. Does one side vs. the other need to be installed in the wheel so it’s “facing” the direction of the wheel spin?

TIA for any help!

~Jeff
 
If i.remember correctly round end is the leading end... i believe its illustrated in the fsm...
Thanks for the reply. That orientation seems like it would make sense. If I can’t find anything more definitive, I’ll go with that.

I’ve got a shop manual, I did a cursory look and didn’t find anything. I’ll do a more thorough dive into the manual.
 
Good question. Another, are they keyed to each wheel? Meaning is one for the front wheel and
the other for the rear. If not how do it know the wheel that has low pressure?
 
Good question. Another, are they keyed to each wheel? Meaning is one for the front wheel and
the other for the rear. If not how do it know the wheel that has low pressure?
They are not keyed to the wheel, but rather to the ECU. One is designated Front and one is designated Rear, so you will be able to identify pressure in a specific wheel.
 
I always mark them "F" and "R" with a Sharpie when removing so I can be sure to get them back in the right wheel. They will still work if you swap them but the display on the cluster will now know they are switched.
 
Good question. Another, are they keyed to each wheel? Meaning is one for the front wheel and
the other for the rear. If not how do it know the wheel that has low pressure?

They aren't "keyed". They could be switched but then the "F" & "R" readings would be *ss-backward.
 
It really doesn't matter, they will work in either direction. However, some models of the Honda GoldWing use the same sensor, and they have a page in their service manual that says the square end should be pointed in the direction of wheel rotation. But I've mounted them both ways, and they work either way. The internal chip has an accelerometer built into it to sense wheel motion, and it may activate itself just a little faster if it is oriented one way.

The below drawing is from the Honda Gold Wing manual. Kawasaki makes no mention of it in the Concours manual.
 

Attachments

  • HondaTPMS.JPG
    HondaTPMS.JPG
    60.2 KB · Views: 188
From Kawasaki FSM p.10-16 "install sensor position parallel to rim line in either direction".
Somewhere in the instructions that I used it tells you to test the sensor before installing in the wheel by tying a string to the valve stem and stand next to the bike with the ignition on. Twirl the sensor in a circle either horizontally or vertically and in a few moments if I remember correctly the display indicated a low tire warning and said front or rear.
 
I'd not recommend swinging the sensor on a string, it's a good way to smack it against something and ruin it. These sensors are somewhat sensitive to high G shocks, as it will damage the accelerometer in it and then it will stay on all the time and drain the battery flat in just a couple months. That's why they are mounted on a spring in the wheel, the spring is to protect them from sudden road shocks that could damage them. You should also try not to drop them when removed from the wheel.

A safer way to test would be to zip tie it to a rear bicycle wheel, and then turn the bike upside down next to the motorcycle and crank the rear bicycle wheel fast enough to make it trigger.
 
Thanks to all who participated in this thread! Short synopsis of what worked for me.
  • Removed both wheels off the C14 (see 1st image), and took them to my trusted tire shop (Cycletune in Portland, OR)
  • Cycletune removed the TPM sensors, and labeled the appropriate sensor as front/rear.
  • I disassembled the TPM sensors (see 2nd image), and unsoldered the existing battery.
    • Batteries in both sensors were 'complaining as low' (they were the original sensors from 2012)
  • Soldered replacement batteries (Panasonic CR2032/F1N) into the TPMSs, and reassembled the sensors
  • Used Fred's suggestion of taping each sensor (one at a time) to a wheel on a bicycle (turned upside down); began spinning the wheel until the sensor 'reported in'. Got a 0 psi and low tire pressure warning out of each sensor. The battery replacement worked!
  • Took my fresh new TPMSs back to Cycle Tune. They installed them back into the wheels and mounted and balanced my tires.
  • Reinstalled both wheels on the C14 and took it out for a shakedown ride. TPMSs report in almost immediately and are displaying proper tire pressure.
Thank you for this forum and it's members. I would have never had the knowledge or the confidence to perform the battery swap on the TPMSs without this great resource. A lot of money saved by not having to purchase new TPM sensors and then having them married to the ECU.
 

Attachments

  • C14_no_shoes.jpg
    C14_no_shoes.jpg
    119.3 KB · Views: 138
  • TPMS_disassembled.png
    TPMS_disassembled.png
    915.4 KB · Views: 135
Thanks to all who participated in this thread! Short synopsis of what worked for me.
  • Removed both wheels off the C14 (see 1st image), and took them to my trusted tire shop (Cycletune in Portland, OR)
  • Cycletune removed the TPM sensors, and labeled the appropriate sensor as front/rear.
  • I disassembled the TPM sensors (see 2nd image), and unsoldered the existing battery.
    • Batteries in both sensors were 'complaining as low' (they were the original sensors from 2012)
  • Soldered replacement batteries (Panasonic CR2032/F1N) into the TPMSs, and reassembled the sensors
  • Used Fred's suggestion of taping each sensor (one at a time) to a wheel on a bicycle (turned upside down); began spinning the wheel until the sensor 'reported in'. Got a 0 psi and low tire pressure warning out of each sensor. The battery replacement worked!
  • Took my fresh new TPMSs back to Cycle Tune. They installed them back into the wheels and mounted and balanced my tires.
  • Reinstalled both wheels on the C14 and took it out for a shakedown ride. TPMSs report in almost immediately and are displaying proper tire pressure.
Thank you for this forum and it's members. I would have never had the knowledge or the confidence to perform the battery swap on the TPMSs without this great resource. A lot of money saved by not having to purchase new TPM sensors and then having them married to the ECU.
Awesome that worked for you! Are those the original sensors? I also have a 2012 and thought those were the next gen fully potted units.
 
Top