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What have you done to your _______(insert other bike here) today?

Strawboss

Member
Member
12A_0014.jpg


Got the Triumph back after frying the wiring harness last year while charging the battery.
 

mcfly

Member
Member
Rode it for a few hours.....  Then brought it home for a wash.... Effin' love bugs.
Nice that the summer heat faded for the weekend.

IMG_0814-M.jpg




IMG_0819-M.jpg



 

connie_rider

Member
Member
I've been working on the Carburetor for my Model T Ford.
(As it's 105 years old, I'm having to hand make the parts).
  I know it's not a bike, but it has spoke wheels...  :great: :rotflmao:

Ride safe, Ted
 

mcfly

Member
Member
Performed my own 6k mile check up, because the dealer I bought
the bike from (and said they did this service) seemingly overlooked a few items... 

- Clutch lever play was out of spec by 3mm... a lot by this bikes 0.5 to 1mm standard.
- Lubricated clutch cable... ahhhhh.
- Removed chain sprocket cover and removed a few tablespoons of axle grease looking crud.
  Cleaned that cover, and the chain then re-oiled the chain.
- Adjusted chain tension to 55mm slack.
- Lubricated Clutch, brake and stand(s) pivot points.
- Checked stem bearing (no play)
- Re-torqued engine mount bolts (not required, but... meh why not)
- Calls for an air filter change, but the one in there looks new.  Ordered one anyway.

Then a gratuitous test ride....  :motonoises:

IMG_0831-M.jpg


IMG_0832-M.jpg


Ready for a nice jaunt tomorrow morning!




 

SteveJ

Member
Member
Mcfly said:
Performed my own 6k mile check up, because the dealer I bought
the bike from (and said they did this service) seemingly overlooked a few items... 

- Clutch lever play was out of spec by 3mm... a lot by this bikes 0.5 to 1mm standard.
- Lubricated clutch cable... ahhhhh.
- Removed chain sprocket cover and removed a few tablespoons of axle grease looking crud.
  Cleaned that cover, and the chain then re-oiled the chain.
- Adjusted chain tension to 55mm slack.
- Lubricated Clutch, brake and stand(s) pivot points.
- Checked stem bearing (no play)
- Re-torqued engine mount bolts (not required, but... meh why not)
- Calls for an air filter change, but the one in there looks new.  Ordered one anyway.

Then a gratuitous test ride....  :motonoises:

IMG_0831-M.jpg


IMG_0832-M.jpg


Ready for a nice jaunt tomorrow morning!

Sparky's for breakkie?
 

Bud

Member
Member
Bob said:
Bud said:
Oil change.


Wow.....Nice bike....very rare I think maybe.
What year is it?
Best Regards
Bob
Thanks Bob!  1982 GS1100GK.  Bought that in 91 for $1500 with 10K on it.  The insurance company thinks it is worth $6000.  I'd hate to lose it, but I think 6 grand would soothe my hurt feelings. ;D
 

mcfly

Member
Member
SteveJ. said:
Mcfly said:
Performed my own 6k mile check up, because the dealer I bought
the bike from (and said they did this service) seemingly overlooked a few items... 

- Clutch lever play was out of spec by 3mm... a lot by this bikes 0.5 to 1mm standard.
- Lubricated clutch cable... ahhhhh.
- Removed chain sprocket cover and removed a few tablespoons of axle grease looking crud.
  Cleaned that cover, and the chain then re-oiled the chain.
- Adjusted chain tension to 55mm slack.
- Lubricated Clutch, brake and stand(s) pivot points.
- Checked stem bearing (no play)
- Re-torqued engine mount bolts (not required, but... meh why not)
- Calls for an air filter change, but the one in there looks new.  Ordered one anyway.

Then a gratuitous test ride....  :motonoises:

IMG_0831-M.jpg


IMG_0832-M.jpg


Ready for a nice jaunt tomorrow morning!

Sparky's for breakkie?

Goin' to the range for lunch and some "pop"....  The Double Tapp Grill.  From there I'll see where Spooky takes me!  :motonoises:
 

mcfly

Member
Member
Diz said:
I like it- 6000 miles in a couple of months  :great:
Actually about 2200 miles, I bought it used.  It's got 7k on it to be accurate.
It's just too darn hot to service the bike in August in FL.
 

mcfly

Member
Member
Put another 220 miles miles on the XR...

SteveJ. nice meeting up with ya for 'breakkie'.
It's always a pleasure Sir!  Food was purdy nice too.

 

SteveJ

Member
Member
Mcfly said:
Put another 220 miles miles on the XR...

SteveJ. nice meeting up with ya for 'breakkie'.
It's always a pleasure Sir!  Food was purdy nice too.

It's been a while since we met in meat space. It was good to break bread with you.

Now iff'n you could do something about that ugly white color on that awesome bike you bought...
We shudda probably taken a pic of the "ugly white" bikes parked next to each other.

Anyhow, have fun and do get that bike up to the mountains. It's a way too awesome bike to waste away on FLA roads.

Later.

Skol.

 

mcfly

Member
Member
SteveJ. said:
Anyhow, have fun and do get that bike up to the mountains. It's a way too awesome bike to waste away on FLA roads.

Tell me about it...  :-[    :banghead:

:beerchug:
 

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Not today, but yesterday. Even tho’ I am trying to hit 200K on the Connie, I still alternate between bikes just to keep their juices flowing. Yesterday was the KLR’s turn in the barrel and I rode it out on a few errands between rain showers.

When I pulled back in and up to the garage door, I noticed that the headlight would fluctuate slightly as I turned the bars lock-to-lock. Never noticed this before, and working/manipulating the wire clusters behind the mini-fairing didn’t replicate the issue, so guess I needed to dig a little deeper.

Poop!

Once I got de-ATGATT’d, I pulled the bike in the garage and took the fairing off. Still, nothing was readily apparent. I had replaced the headlamp ground wire that ran to the socket awhile back for some reason that escapes me now, so decided to start there. I’d had used a butt-splice and a fast-on connector in the lead, so decided to get rid of those and solder the leads together directly, using heat shrink tubing to cover/protect the joint….. even tho it was just a ground lead. Working the bars now, the problem went away. Unfortunately, I could see nothing in that previous connection that might have caused it.

Reinstalled the fairing and things still appeared okay, so we’ll call it a “win” for now. Fixed, or not fixed? I hate issues like that.

I’ll get that bike back out on the road in the next few days to make sure things are good. In the daylight I might add – JIC.
 

mcfly

Member
Member
Oil filter and oil change, then swapped out the air filter too.
It looked like the dealer DID change the oil before giving me
the bike... but I have trust issues, and now I know it's done.  ;D

At 3 years old the coolant is the only old fluid left in the bike.
Might let that go till spring.... then do the SISF cocktail.
 

Amphibsailor

Guest
Guest
Loaded it up on the trailer yesterday after finishing up the days ride (Final Call Fling 2, Clinton,AR).  Trailered it to St Robert, MO for a week of TDY. When I get home, have to figure out what code it threw during the ride.  The bike died on me, at least 4 times.
 

Steve in sunny Fla

Iron Butt
Industry Vendor
Within the last couple days I've installed the wilbers triple clicker shock into my versys 1000, and finished up the tune for the delkevic decat header.  I know Marty's bike will whoop it, but I really like this bike!
 

mcfly

Member
Member
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Within the last couple days I've installed the wilbers triple clicker shock into my versys 1000, and finished up the tune for the delkevic decat header.  I know Marty's bike will whoop it, but I really like this bike!

I duuno about that Steve....  You're a pretty clever guy....  ;)

Wanna tune a XR?  :)

 

Steve in sunny Fla

Iron Butt
Industry Vendor
Mcfly said:
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Within the last couple days I've installed the wilbers triple clicker shock into my versys 1000, and finished up the tune for the delkevic decat header.  I know Marty's bike will whoop it, but I really like this bike!

I duuno about that Steve....  You're a pretty clever guy....  ;)

Wanna tune a XR?  :)

  not 40 hp clever  :-\  Don't know about tuning it, but I do want to ride it!  :motonoises: Steve
 

HeavyRotation

Mini Bike
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Within the last couple days I've installed the wilbers triple clicker shock into my versys 1000, and finished up the tune for the delkevic decat header.  I know Marty's bike will whoop it, but I really like this bike!
My buddy just bought a Versys 1k and wants a flash but i couldn't find a link on your site, just the 650. Do you haz a flash for the stock 1k? Thanks.
 

who me?

Street Cruiser
Forum Subscriber
the fjr is dead
long live the fjr
Sold the fjr today
Ill be on the look out for another something after I get caught up on the dreaded to do list
 

Attachments

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gbike

Member
Member
Put a new rear tire on the Kawasaki z900rs today. I went with a continental road attack3. Now waiting for the rain to stop so I can break it in.
 

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Well, despite the rain, I rode the KLR to run some errands this morning. Since I haven't finished fooling with the Connie's suspension, didn't want to take it out.

People at the store looked at me like I was from another planet. Kinda used to that, so nothing new.

PSSST!: Guess what folks - it's only water.
 

m in sc

Guest
Guest
Wrapped up the majority of the fab work for the 2 stroke grom exhaust. intake is finally sorted as well.

250grommuffler-1.jpg


250grommuffler-4.jpg


carb-relocate-intake_2.jpg


now comes the teardown and cleanup & final assembly. 
 

m in sc

Guest
Guest
connie_rider said:
Need more pictures. Where did you hide the exhaust/expansion chamber?

Ride safe, Ted

Ok, you asked for it.  >:D

down low. this is from a  few weeks ago, this is all done, painted and waiting to be reinstalled after i finish populating the cases.

grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_02.jpg


pipe-layout_3.jpg


grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_27.jpg



also extensive radiator mods (from a cr125, aftermarket)

moved filler to far end of tank from center for steering clearance

grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_13.jpg




grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_18.jpg


this is how its currently sitting, motor is on the bench. note the rear brake pedal. believe it or not, that and terminates in the dead stock location. I just had to fab the lever to clear the chamber.

kinda looks like a wet cat here.

20191108_084758.jpg


this is the front engine mount. the 2 legs coming off the side are fairing stays. there is also a torque arm on the bottom and a rear mount with a 15mm bolt, to the frame, via laser cut 1/4" mounting plates mounted with 4 10mm bolts.

20191108_084735.jpg



fuzzy pic of the chamber hanging on the wall fabbed and painted. stinger length is same as stock  .

20191108_084808.jpg


I lost 1/8" ground clearance compared to stock believe it or not.  also, with forks and rear shock compressed, i will drag the LH foot peg feeler before the chamber headpipe, just barely, but i will prob never get it over quite that far.



 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Amazing fabrication work! I are impressed...
What about final drive ratio's?
Any idea what gearing you'll use to keep accell and add a bit of top end to the original 125cc/55 mph?
I'm assuming a wheelie king..

Ride safe, Ted
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Ok, thanx.
I know you'll have more power but was unsure about peak RPM's of the 2 motors.
  {Thought the original might turn more rpm}.
Unsure what you mean {4v head 170}?

Ride safe, Ted
 

m in sc

Guest
Guest
stock grom as a 125 2 valve head with 28? mm throttle body. when i snapped the rod in half, i had a 4 valve head, 170cc cyl on it, 34mm throttle body, power commander with wideband controller, etc. etc. was putting down about 26-27hp.  this should be in the 33-36 hp range. However, redline will be around 10.5 with the 250. the gearing will be as such:

grom motor/trans  3.35 primary ratio , 4 speed, top gear (4th) 0.92 final gearing was 2.18 (sprockets)

suzuki motor/trans 2.68 primary ratio, 5 speed top gear (5th) 0.81 final gearing 2.42 (sprockets)

fyi, side note. 1st gear ratios are 2.38 grom, and 2.5 suzuki 250. This is my starting point, but i am at the biggest front sprocket i can run on the motor, will have to adjust rear to suit tastes. 

Im not killing it to hit 100, but for a 230 lb bike, its surprisingly stable at speed at 80 mph. however, the suspension isnt stock either so it should be ok. I went with a quad motor because its got lots of low end and midrange, its a combo reed/piston port motor, very weird layout. and, this particular version has a balance shaft , they run very smooth for what they are.  :motonoises:

thanks for the compliments.  :beerchug:
 

mcfly

Member
Member
m in sc said:
connie_rider said:
Need more pictures. Where did you hide the exhaust/expansion chamber?

Ride safe, Ted

Ok, you asked for it.  >:D

down low. this is from a  few weeks ago, this is all done, painted and waiting to be reinstalled after i finish populating the cases.

grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_02.jpg


pipe-layout_3.jpg


grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_27.jpg



also extensive radiator mods (from a cr125, aftermarket)

moved filler to far end of tank from center for steering clearance

grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_13.jpg




grompipe-radiators-10-20-19_18.jpg


this is how its currently sitting, motor is on the bench. note the rear brake pedal. believe it or not, that and terminates in the dead stock location. I just had to fab the lever to clear the chamber.

kinda looks like a wet cat here.

20191108_084758.jpg


this is the front engine mount. the 2 legs coming off the side are fairing stays. there is also a torque arm on the bottom and a rear mount with a 15mm bolt, to the frame, via laser cut 1/4" mounting plates mounted with 4 10mm bolts.

20191108_084735.jpg



fuzzy pic of the chamber hanging on the wall fabbed and painted. stinger length is same as stock  .

20191108_084808.jpg


I lost 1/8" ground clearance compared to stock believe it or not.  also, with forks and rear shock compressed, i will drag the LH foot peg feeler before the chamber headpipe, just barely, but i will prob never get it over quite that far.

I'm impressed too, but I'm easily impressed.... j/k.

Great work and interesting mods.  Tinkering gone craaaazy!  ;D  :great:
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Thanx again M in SC. As I sed great fabrication! Very impressive, particularly the pipe and radiator.

Took me some study to {partially} wrap my head around the ratio's.
Admit I don't fully understand but have a pretty good understanding.
My question was aimed at sprocket ration's. {I didn't ask my question correctly previously}
NOTE: At the time, I thought you were going from a 125 to a 250.
I was wondering if you would be able to adjust to your needs with just a front sprocket change.
ie; Have no idea the OD of a Quad racer tire, but think the Grom tire diameter smaller...
I thought with more power and the small rear tire, you might have a wheelie king, but over-rev in high gear.
Appears your on the same page and already gone to the biggest front sprocket you can and planning additional at rear sprocket.

Ride safe, Ted
 

Tim R

Moderator
Staff member
Member
Followed the book when changing oil on the 900. Over serviced of course. 4 qts would have done the job instead of 4.4 qts.  So I got the Mity Vac out, put a nice end on the hose and stuffed it down through the oil filler passed the clutch. Worked good. I lowered the oil level just under the full mark. When I pulled the hose out, the end I had placed on the hose decided it needed to stay put. ARGH.. Now I get to pull the pan. I might put the mod in pan to keep the oil from flowing away from the oil pick up under hard acceleration. Those familiar with the Z1's know about the flickering oil light under hard acceleration.  Dang it anyways. I was going to ride the 900 on a Patriot Guard mission. It didn't happen. I probably would have been alright with a piece of rubber floating around in the pan,  but why take a chance. Z1 rebuilds are expensive. Oil pan gaskets are cheap compared.

Normally I would have just taken the Connie. But I hit a pot hole in the Walmart parking lot. (just the perfect size) The front wheel got bent. Knocked both tire sensors out too. Too much fun for this time of the year.
 

Tim R

Moderator
Staff member
Member
I drained the oil and saved it since there was only about two minutes on it. Pulled pan. No rubber piece. If I had under stood the oil passages I would have pulled the clutch cover housing. I put the line behind the clutch pack and due the oil level down. I stupidly though I was in the pan.  A Clutch cover gasket is on order along with 11 new screws. I have a feeling the current clutch cover screws are going to get mangled upon  removal.  Some will come out with an impact driver. Some will come out with an easy out. One or two might come out with a screw driver but I'm not counting on it. ARG!
 

SteveJ

Member
Member
TimR said:
I drained the oil and saved it since there was only about two minutes on it. Pulled pan. No rubber piece. If I had under stood the oil passages I would have pulled the clutch cover housing. I put the line behind the clutch pack and due the oil level down. I stupidly though I was in the pan.  A Clutch cover gasket is on order along with 11 new screws. I have a feeling the current clutch cover screws are going to get mangled upon  removal.  Some will come out with an impact driver. Some will come out with an easy out. One or two might come out with a screw driver but I'm not counting on it. ARG!

Hiya.

Good luck with the repair for your "duh" moment.

Say hiya to Mrs. TimR.
 

kzz1king

Member
Member
I have never had trouble with the clutch screws but I end up pulling the clutch cover a bit and use never sieze on any fastener I remove and replaced with the allen heads. The gate works well.
Wayne


TimR said:
I drained the oil and saved it since there was only about two minutes on it. Pulled pan. No rubber piece. If I had under stood the oil passages I would have pulled the clutch cover housing. I put the line behind the clutch pack and due the oil level down. I stupidly though I was in the pan.  A Clutch cover gasket is on order along with 11 new screws. I have a feeling the current clutch cover screws are going to get mangled upon  removal.  Some will come out with an impact driver. Some will come out with an easy out. One or two might come out with a screw driver but I'm not counting on it. ARG!
 

Tim R

Moderator
Staff member
Member
(00 update. Pulled the clutch cover and lo and behold, found it. The next project is removing old gasket material. What a pain the cough, cough in the neck.  I went to a fiends house who has a rubber fingered tool that makes short work on old gaskets. Unfortunately I'm not sure I Want to use that around the rods, mains and clutch. No matter how well you protect such things tiny pieces of crap still makes it's way in.  I picked up some gasket remover which so far seems to work after a long soak.

Steve J. The other Tim R half says Hi.  Tim
 

mcfly

Member
Member
I finally got to installing the Southern California Motowerks manual
camchain tensioner on the XR today.  With faring removal/refittling,
about a 2 hour ordeal, with lunch.

The manual tensioner works well.  No start up rattle at all.  Win!
While I was there, with sn ear to the engine, I found a rattling tip over
bar spacer.  An added washer tightened it right up, and eliminated another
unwanted noise.

Happy to have the 'frequent to fail' OEM hydraulic CCT out.  :great:
 

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Did a little more work cleaning out the crud in the CL77 tank. Getting close to doing the POR15 treatment. May wait until after Xmas.

Also started rebuilding the petcock. It was completely clogged up with hardened crud, and the the MAIN inlet tube was clogged and split. Managed to get the remains removed from the petcock body and will source the proper sized tube from one of the local hobby stores. Not sure what's out there, but am prepared to dress it down to the correct size for a tight, interference fit. Also going to try and find a suitable screen to slip over the end to help keep any "stuff" out of the carbs.
 

ron203

Southeast Area Director
Member
Reinstalled the hwy pegs on the Wing, in case I decide to ride it to The Last Blast NEXT weekend...

...Only 513 miles each way. ... maybe I'll take the C-14...hmmm...
 
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