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What have your done to your C14 today

Presently in Mountain Home, AR. ~400 miles from home area (in N. AL). Fred Harmon has my bike and is performing the valve check/adjustment, throttle bottle sync., and a few other odds and ends. Should have my much-improved bike back Monday afternoon. Looking forward to it!
 
I did hibernation prep: wash & wax, changed the oil and filter, filled her with fuel, and added stabilizer. Tomorrow I will help my friend move his toys so the bike can fit in his workshop. The winter season will soon be upon us - well at least for the people in Northern Canada.
 
Installed a set of Denali (Twisted Throttle) T3 Switchback light pods on their license plate brackets. The lights work as advertised and are very bright.
 

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Changing out the Mondo Moto driving lights that mount to the front forks. One of them burned out. No replacement LED part is available for the Mondo Motos that I could find. I like the new light better anyway... they look to be a bit better and brighter than the MMs.
The are called DK Stealth Driving lights and cost about $72 for the pair. I will report back when they are installed and I have test drove them.
They might go under a different name on eBay... they are a single light in a black housing with cooling fins and about 3" in diameter.
 
Changing out the Mondo Moto driving lights that mount to the front forks. One of them burned out. No replacement LED part is available for the Mondo Motos that I could find. I like the new light better anyway... they look to be a bit better and brighter than the MMs.
The are called DK Stealth Driving lights and cost about $72 for the pair. I will report back when they are installed and I have test drove them.
They might go under a different name on eBay... they are a single light in a black housing with cooling fins and about 3" in diameter.
Not sure if I have the correct ones but I am planning on putting lights on the forks down low and like the looks of these as well as the beam. The price makes me think I may have the wrong one.
 
I got the DK lights installed, plugged in, and what I thought was ready to go. I tested them with 12 volt power first and they seemed fine. Wires must be crossed ( that doesn't make any sense ) or something upstream from the power source is off. Strange... they always came on once my 2010 model was running.
 
Took off my summer shorty screen today and put the stock one on minus the MadStad brackets. The mid 20 degree morning rides to work require more wind protection, but thought I would revisit the stock position. Yep, it is still noisy, and makes back pressure on the 2013. Got in my first November ride though!
 

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Kicked my lady friend off the back of my '12.

(We have three other motorcycle including an '08ABS to ride, so it's not like she's getting left at the house. 🤣)

What started this was a forum thread titled "Police Version Pictures". In it I made a comment about wanting an LE trunk to house some ham radio gear. A member mentioned ongoing eBay auctions...which yielded a radio box, a heated Corbin driver seat, set of rear crash guards and a bunch of other stuff (including lighting) needed to make the project work. Still chasing down odds and ends for controlling the three radios I'm going to mount - one of which is already aboard the bike. I'll begin the conversion process when I have that one down for its 15K valve adjustment in the spring. Need to get a set of front engine guards and some sort of non-metallic trunk rack to carry a rain cover, as I'm losing 1/3 of the bike's storage space by swapping everything out.

Also playing phone tag with Steve about flashing both ECUs. Helibars and suspension upgrades for both Connies are on the road map too.
 
It was such a beautiful day yesterday. 76 degrees and sunny with a mild breeze. A perfect day for a long ride.

The nicest day in about four years.
 
Detailed My 2014 C-14, I think bug season is over! Looks nice!
Carefully washed the whole bike and wiped it down with lemon Pledge, smells great.
Have to mount a new front tire this week, a Michelin Pilot Power.
Should get a couple more long rides in this month. In spite of living at 9,740' In Telluride Co we manage to ride year round out of here.
Nick
 
prjektd Air Wings
They work very well and take all the air off my hands. Fit is perfect with my V Stream Shield.
Highly recommend
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Well I have a 2017 Kawasaki Concours 14 has 18,000 mi on it. I bought it last year brand new with no miles .. I have put LED headlights on the front plus I had my ECU flashed put an Area P No limits, exhaust on.. added a Kawasaki backrest and passenger lowered foot pegs for more comfort for my passenger. And I have a Garmin XT GPS system on it but it's not permanent. I love this machine she's a real wolf in sheep's clothing. Lol
 
Well I have a 2017 Kawasaki Concours 14 has 18,000 mi on it. I bought it last year brand new with no miles .. I have put LED headlights on the front plus I had my ECU flashed put an Area P No limits, exhaust on.. added a Kawasaki backrest and passenger lowered foot pegs for more comfort for my passenger. And I have a Garmin XT GPS system on it but it's not permanent. I love this machine she's a real wolf in sheep's clothing. Lol
Did you notice much loss of midrange power after the exhaust / flash? I keep thinking about it, but then hearing it loses a bunch of midrange.
 
I've smelled coolant on occasion and have never had any on the garage floor. I removed the fairings this evening and started looking for a leak. I was about to give up, until I lay on my back and found dried antifreeze where this hose attaches. The hose clamp was a little more than finger tight, not much though. The PO stated that the coolant was flushed when the valves were serviced. The coolant does look new and perhaps the clamp was forgotten? Who knows, but now it doesn't seep. I also installed the wedges I purchased from the classifieds here, I like the angle better thanthe stock angle.
I received my resprung and revalved shock Friday evening and will be installing sometime soon. The original had 33k on it and it's under sprung and under damped. I was having to add too much preload to combat the wallowing and there wasn't enough rebound control with any amount of preload added. I look forward to getting this installed.
 

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I've smelled coolant on occasion and have never had any on the garage floor. I removed the fairings this evening and started looking for a leak. I was about to give up, until I lay on my back and found dried antifreeze where this hose attaches. The hose clamp was a little more than finger tight, not much though. The PO stated that the coolant was flushed when the valves were serviced. The coolant does look new and perhaps the clamp was forgotten? Who knows, but now it doesn't seep. I also installed the wedges I purchased from the classifieds here, I like the angle better thanthe stock angle.
I received my resprung and revalved shock Friday evening and will be installing sometime soon. The original had 33k on it and it's under sprung and under damped. I was having to add too much preload to combat the wallowing and there wasn't enough rebound control with any amount of preload added. I look forward to getting this installed.
Be sure to reply back on how the shock works for you!
wayne
 
Be sure to reply back on how the shock works for you!
wayne
I installed it last night and set the sag, it's nice to have a shock that is properly sprung. Out of the box it requires no added preload to get 35mm of total sag, there is 3.25 turns of total rebound control and I have it set at 1.25 in right now. For comparison, I had to run the stock shock about 12 turns in and there was absolutely no rebound control, frankly there was no rebound control with very little preload, the rear was like a trampoline.
Going on a good long ride tomorrow and will have some feedback for you.
Jamie @ DMr Suspension Service knows his stuff, I bought a full suspension setup(shock and fork cartridges) for my 6th Gen VFR and it totally transformed the bike.
 
B double E double R U N, BeerRun!!! Rode that bish...11/20/2020, unseasonably warm 50 degrees at 15:30, and my brother in law (who can't drive due to medical conditions) needed beer. I'm on it!! Had not turned her over for 2 weeks, but she fired up and I did a nice 12 mile RT to the Piggly Wiggly, aka Safeway. A half rack o Modelo bottles fits nicely in each SB.
 
And sadly, this is why dyno charts are so effective at selling performance components, because very few people really understand what to expect from what they are buying, and think all they ever need to know is in the dyno chart.

If you want to educate yourself, research what happens with very large diameter head and mid pipe headers. Study things like "flow velocity" and "passive egr".
Is that why you post dyno charts on your website?
 
Just my 2 cents;
There is nothing wrong with Dyno charts as they can be used for some information/comparison.
In fact, their a great way for the Flash guys to show off their products, and a good way to compare the various Flash/exhaust combinations.
The problem is, most don't know how to use them or realize how their developed, and a dyno run does not represent the real world.
ie; Dyno runs are done at WOT, and do "not" show lower throttle settings. {So they don't represent normal street riding}.

The Dyno plot needs to be looked at closely to see the entire power/torque curve. (Not only the peak HP)
Comparisons of different curves MUST be looked at to compare/understand the information of a plot.

Most of our riding is "not" at WOT and a bikes components should be selected accordingly.

Horsenuts 123; An engine with a big tubed header does not actually "loose" low/mid range power.
ie; {Because of it's flow characteristic's} It doesn't/can't develop the same amount of torque at low RPM's,, that an engine {using a header with smaller tubes} can produce.
{When properly tuned} a flash is developed to get the most (possible) torque from an engine throughout the RPM range.
Unfortunately, no Flash can make big tubed headers develop the same low end grunt as headers with smaller tubes.

NOTE: Big Tubed/etc headers {without a matching flash} can sometimes produce less torque/hp than a stock set of headers alone.
So, if you want the best for $$ spent, you need both header and a matching Flash.
 
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No, I post dyno charts on my website because if I don't, people who have a very limited view of what various modifications do wouldn't have anything to look at.;)o_O:):)

People forget that they do about 1% of their riding at WOT, and that's all you glean from a typical dyno chart. What about all the other times when you have those gian tube headers, riding at 3500 rpm at 10% throttle on the highway? No matter what, tuning can't get back the throttle snap those huge tubes lost via slow velocity.

I'll guarantee you that a stock concours with a good flash will outrun a concours with an area p pipe and a good tune on higher gear roll ons to about 5500 - 6000 rpm. BTDT. From there up the big pipe will kill it... but if you're a person who wants to turn the throttle without downshifting and experience the torque a c-14 can develop (like most riders) you are not going to like what happens with the big tube header.

Bigger isn't always better, but it takes experience to come to that conclusion. Otherwise, you'll have to hang your hat on that WOT dyno chart and "think" you understand how the bike is going to act under regular riding conditions.

Don't be mad with me, I'm just reporting the realities that come with hotrodding... often times that big cam / header / intake / throttle body/ whatever just turned out to be a big step backward on the street. Seen it a thousand times. Kids will argue about this, but mature hotrodders know exactly what I'm talking about.

Steve
Enough of the condescension dude no one is mad, but why don't you put your ego aside and stop talking down to people. Seems like you can't get enough of it. EVERYTHING I have done with Ivan has been in the quest for better all around drivability, not bragging rights for dyno charts. Do you think you are the only tuner out there that tunes for better all around response, you aren't. So in the end, I'm glad you have happy customers and I'm glad there is another choice, besides you for tuning.
 
I changed the oil and filter. It was warm today, 37 degrees. Cleaned her up. Put her on the Optimate 4. Now, I'm going to wake her up every 2 or 3 weeks from here on out till the weather warms up.
 
Yesterday (Dec. 5), I trekked with a small group to Eldridge, AL, to participate - along with hundreds of bikers and non-bikers - in the annual, 1st-Sat-in-Dec, Toy Run to benefit the children living at the Children's Home.
 
I started mine for the first time since late November. Got a low battery warning right after it fired up, but then battery voltage showed 14.7. I let it run for a few minutes, then went on a very chilly 20 minute ride and put it away again. Hopefully it's only a few weeks till I can get her out again!
 
Valve inspection, replaced hydraulics, flushed cooling system, cleaned and recharged K&N air filter, lubricated hinge points, wired aux lights to neutrino, eliminated accessory blade fuses, installed Heli-Bars, changed the oil, changed end case oil, changed city lights to HID and test rode.

Heli-Bars make a huge difference!
 
After our bit of southern ice/snow this past week, took it out for a 70-mile spin today. The near 60-degree temp made it too tempting not to get out and play in the twisties ...
 
Presently in Mountain Home, AR. ~400 miles from home area (in N. AL). Fred Harmon has my bike and is performing the valve check/adjustment, throttle bottle sync., and a few other odds and ends. Should have my much-improved bike back Monday afternoon. Looking forward to it!
Does he run a shop in the area? I'm somewhat local myself.
 
He has a shop/garage at his house, he only schedules one bike at a time.
I'm 473 miles northwest of there and will need my valves done for the first time later on this summer. The question is, what do you do with yourself for a couple days while your bike gets some TLC?
 
I hauled my 2008 Concours and my track bike up to Fred's in 2017. I got a cheap motel room in Mountain Home and spent the day riding the great roads in the area while Fred worked on my bike.
 
I hauled my 2008 Concours and my track bike up to Fred's in 2017. I got a cheap motel room in Mountain Home and spent the day riding the great roads in the area while Fred worked on my bike.
What lather did would be ideal provided you have 2 bikes & means to haul them. We have some great roads in AR, at least try to hang around a couple days & ride afterwards. Fred is only 5 - 10 miles from Push Mountain Rd. (hwy. 341) & the list of roads just grows from there.

Fred's never done mine but I'm pretty sure he has a very quick turn around. One of the reasons he'll only take one bike at a time, he doesn't have any other distractions.
 
What lather did would be ideal provided you have 2 bikes & means to haul them. We have some great roads in AR, at least try to hang around a couple days & ride afterwards. Fred is only 5 - 10 miles from Push Mountain Rd. (hwy. 341) & the list of roads just grows from there.

Fred's never done mine but I'm pretty sure he has a very quick turn around. One of the reasons he'll only take one bike at a time, he doesn't have any other distractions.
I don't have a second bike, so I'll be riding down. Sounds like hwy. 341 might be a good road to shake the bike out on when Fred's done!
 
Took off plastics, seat and windscreen in lieu of doing my valve adjustment. Unbolted tank as well as I thought I had too, oops. Lol
 
Took off plastics, seat and windscreen in lieu of doing my valve adjustment. Unbolted tank as well as I thought I had too, oops. Lol
Depending on miles its a good time to check fuel filter. I removed radiator when I did mine and changed fluid as well. Gave me a little more room with little more effort.
 
There is a Quality Inn not far from Fred's House. Walking distance to a nice sports bar that has a good food menu and great pizza. I found Fred to be a great guy to deal with.
 
I'm 473 miles northwest of there and will need my valves done for the first time later on this summer. The question is, what do you do with yourself for a couple days while your bike gets some TLC?
I took my bike to Fred just after lunch on a Sunday (~ 2 pm) and had it back at 4 pm on Monday. Valves checked / adjusted, throttle body sync and some other odd-n-ends. Well worth it if convenient to do so, unless you can do the work yourself.
 
Wow - that’s great turnaround! Good job Fred!

RoadRunner how many miles since your last valve inspection / sync? Did you notice any difference?
 
Installed radiator, filled coolant, hooked up all wiring and temporarily torqued engine braces and subframe for first startup after valve clearance check.

All good! Burped hoses, refilled coolant then half dozen heat cycles in front of high flow fans. No oil or coolant leaks, had to adjust idle down ~300 RPM, guessing from better efficiency of valve closures.

Now to take braces/ subframe and most wiring disconnect to install the Healtech and Quick Shifter.
 
Got it out of the trailer for the first time this winter. . Snow melting left rivers across the roads and high water in the fields up to the edge of the roadway but I am heading to GA in a week to take it apart and get it ready for the summer. My bro in laws big new shell bldg has tools and heat. Can't wait. Lots of plans. Noticed my AST lights are hinky with some of the bars in this photo missing now. Need to get the fuseblock and run the wires or remove and replace. Not counting on Ryan to be of any help at all.



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I installed a Copperdawg Windshield system today, I found a color matching one on ebay last month & bought it for 1/4 of what they cost new. I'm hoping I like it when I take a test ride sometime this week. I'm thinking it will be good for the summer heat here in Florida. The good thing is it only takes a couple minutes to switch out windshields so I can decide which I want to use depending on the ride/weather.
 

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Since we are currently having a few nice days in a row - 60's and sunny - I decided to pull my 2011 out of winter storage. I pulled the battery cover to begin battery installation. When I pulled the cover off I noticed a piece of black plastic fall on the ground. As it turns out, when I pulled the cover off, the stud that fits on the rubber grommet of the metal battery cover broke off. See pics. So I thought I would just order a new outer cover. I checked on Partzilla... $57.71 for the cover and $6.06 for the foil inner liner. I also have a TechSpec cover on the outside that I would have to transfer over to the new part. Rather than spend the money and time, I think I'll just try to epoxy the stud back on. We'll see how that goes. It is not a load bearing part so this might just work out.
 

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Working leisurely and carefully from March 7 to April 7, using the FSM and Fred Harmon's videos:

1. Valve adjustment and plug replacement. Twelve of sixteen were out (tight) and three of the remaining four were at the minimum. Used the adjustment kit from Murph's which was ideal. It doesn't include o-rings for the oil pipes but mine were so hard to pop out that I saw no real need to replace them anyway. Bought new shims from Rocky Mountain ATV & MC for $1.95 each.
2. Removed and cleaned air filter. It had only 490 miles on it.
3. Cleaned battery terminals and grounds. By "cleaned" I mean 600 grit sandpaper on the frame and the bolt shoulders. I do this regularly.
4. I removed the radiator for the valve adjustment, so I also tightened the header bolts. Several were practically finger loose.
5. Relocated the Garmin GPS power leads from the battery to the front accessory leads. Should have done that in the first place.
6. Lubed the windshield tracks per the FSM.
7. Double flushed and refilled the radiator.
8. Changed oil and filter.
9. Did some minor paint touch-ups here and there with ColorRite pens.

I still have a few miscellaneous jobs to do but the valve adjustment was the biggest and is now finished.
 
I installed a Copperdawg Windshield system today, I found a color matching one on ebay last month & bought it for 1/4 of what they cost new. I'm hoping I like it when I take a test ride sometime this week. I'm thinking it will be good for the summer heat here in Florida. The good thing is it only takes a couple minutes to switch out windshields so I can decide which I want to use depending on the ride/weather.
"Update" The Copperdawg is great, Lot's of air for sure. I wish it came up about 6" taller but I will use it this summer in the intense Florida heat. Definetly not good for a rainey day !
 
Last week I did everything I needed to do maintenance wise to be ready for a few long distance trips I'm taking this year.
1. Changed oil & filter
2. Changed Diff oil
3. Installed speed bleeder kit from Murphs
4. Flushed all Brake systems & Clutch system.
5. Installed new Air Filter
6. Installed new powered phone mount
7. Repainted Canyon Cages
8. Installed new Highway Pegs
9. Cleaned the underside of the bike real good while it was on the lift.
10. Mounted tire on front Ninja 14R rim I bought on ebay & installed. I Bent the original rim on a pot hole on the Blue Ridge Parkway last year.
Now all I have left is to Install new tires on my extra set of wheels for trips. I have 2 sets of rims so I always have new tires ready for long trips. I have a KDS system so programing my own Tire sensors is no problem.
 
Working leisurely and carefully from March 7 to April 7, using the FSM and Fred Harmon's videos:

1. Valve adjustment and plug replacement. Twelve of sixteen were out (tight) and three of the remaining four were at the minimum. Used the adjustment kit from Murph's which was ideal. It doesn't include o-rings for the oil pipes but mine were so hard to pop out that I saw no real need to replace them anyway. Bought new shims from Rocky Mountain ATV & MC for $1.95 each.
2. Removed and cleaned air filter. It had only 490 miles on it.
3. Cleaned battery terminals and grounds. By "cleaned" I mean 600 grit sandpaper on the frame and the bolt shoulders. I do this regularly.
4. I removed the radiator for the valve adjustment, so I also tightened the header bolts. Several were practically finger loose.
5. Relocated the Garmin GPS power leads from the battery to the front accessory leads. Should have done that in the first place.
6. Lubed the windshield tracks per the FSM.
7. Double flushed and refilled the radiator.
8. Changed oil and filter.
9. Did some minor paint touch-ups here and there with ColorRite pens.

I still have a few miscellaneous jobs to do but the valve adjustment was the biggest and is now finished.
Thats a lot of work, good job! I didn't see lubing the WS tracks but I actually recently did that too.

What color bike do you have? I have Moondust and got ColorRite pens and they didn't match. Ended up getting some from Touchupdirect and it looks good. Have yet to use it tho.
 
Thats a lot of work, good job! I didn't see lubing the WS tracks but I actually recently did that too.

What color bike do you have? I have Moondust and got ColorRite pens and they didn't match. Ended up getting some from Touchupdirect and it looks good. Have yet to use it tho.
2010, Candy Neptune Blue. My pens were a perfect match, base color, top color, and clearcoat.
 
Installed my tank bag and went grocery shopping for my 2 household's monday BBQ.
Pretty able Grocery Getter, might try touring on it some day, LOL
 
I changed the oil and the air filter. Honestly the air filter was a PITA compared to the bikes I owned "back in the day". I got it done without pulling the mid fairing, since I have canyon cages installed, but pulled the windscreen because getting to the push pin behind it was impossible despite what the fsm says! Unbolting the wiring connector support bracket only cost me a little bit of skin on a couple knuckles and 1 lost plastic push pin for the heat shield. But, I'm glad it's done now because the filter that came out (15K miles) was toast.
 

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I finally got around to spending the 15 mins required to install Murph's Bearinged Upshifter. Then took it out for a quick spin to see how it felt and to be frank I'm not sure I noticed any difference. If anything, I think I'll need to adjust the linkage a bit because it doesn't feel like it's in the original position. Also noticed that I get a much more notchy feel on upshift, which is likely due to the pull length (needing adjustment). The way the OEM was built it looked to be fine, even with only a plastic spacer/bushing around the Kawa fat bolt. There wasn't any play in it at all, but then I'm still only at 6k miles so far. Maybe as we get closer to 20k things will start to get smooshed, but for now it still looked like new.

We'll see when I get out this weekend to the Twisted Sisters northwest of San Antonio. If anyone lives over that way, or is heading that way, we're staying in Bandera on Friday and Saturday night. Ping me if you want to hook up. We are a group of 3, being me on my C14 with wifey and two soloists on their HDs Road Kings. Happy to have more smiling faces joining.

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I finally got around to spending the 15 mins required to install Murph's Bearinged Upshifter. Then took it out for a quick spin to see how it felt and to be frank I'm not sure I noticed any difference. If anything, I think I'll need to adjust the linkage a bit because it doesn't feel like it's in the original position. Also noticed that I get a much more notchy feel on upshift, which is likely due to the pull length (needing adjustment). The way the OEM was built it looked to be fine, even with only a plastic spacer/bushing around the Kawa fat bolt. There wasn't any play in it at all, but then I'm still only at 6k miles so far. Maybe as we get closer to 20k things will start to get smooshed, but for now it still looked like new.

We'll see when I get out this weekend to the Twisted Sisters northwest of San Antonio. If anyone lives over that way, or is heading that way, we're staying in Bandera on Friday and Saturday night. Ping me if you want to hook up. We are a group of 3, being me on my C14 with wifey and two soloists on their HDs Road Kings. Happy to have more smiling faces joining.

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I did the bearing up at about 45000 and it was a huge improvement. The plastic sleeve was about gone on mine.
 
I did the bearing up at about 45000 and it was a huge improvement. The plastic sleeve was about gone on mine.

Thanks! Good to know. I'll post up a picture of mine when I get back from my weekend run.

UPDATE: here's mine with about 4,500 miles on it before the swap to the bearing'd upshifter.
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Put on a set of Dunlop RS4’s.

Have about 5500 miles on the Dunlop RS3’s, really like those overall but wanted new rubber for a mtn trip coming up in a few days. Estimating about 2-3K miles left, will finish the RS3’s off this fall. Will be the most miles we’ve clocked on a set of tires on the C14.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Replaced the rear tire with a Shinko Raven and replaced the rear TPMS battery. I now have a Shinko Raven tire on both wheels.

Will grease the needle bearings on the rear suspension "arms" before re-installing the rear wheel.
 
Installed AST 2" Risers along with the Kawasaki GPS mount (mounts on top of the risers). Had to order 110mm bolts to account for both the risers and the gps mount and they did the trick. I tested the risers with a ride around the block which isn't much of a test but I think I'm going to like them just fine. I just need to find out if the wind screen will be as effective when all the way up.
 
Installed AST 2" Risers along with the Kawasaki GPS mount (mounts on top of the risers). Had to order 110mm bolts to account for both the risers and the gps mount and they did the trick. I tested the risers with a ride around the block which isn't much of a test but I think I'm going to like them just fine. I just need to find out if the wind screen will be as effective when all the way up.

The risers will make a world of difference when riding for longer than 20 mins. It combats a bit of the forward slope of the seat by letting you sit more upright. My arms are long enough that when I use my core muscles and legs to hold myself up I don't have to put any pressure on my arms at all. I can let them hang loosely so I get less fatigued and no longer get the soreness in neck & wrists or numbness in hands. This alone makes extended rides enormously more doable.

Also, I added the extra extender to the top of my screen. I'm only 5'11" but the extender cut way down on the wind noise and bugs on helmet. It makes a huge difference and didn't cost $300. Got it on Amazon for $36 if I remember correctly. Sitting upright on the bike my line of sight is dead center through it, so keeping it clean is always a priority (especially at night).

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Yesterday I was able to swap out my front tire with Ted's help and technology. Took off the OEM that came with the machine, and swapped on a Conti-Motion. The first couple corners were a bit frisky, but by the time I got on the highway I was feeling pretty confident with it. Didn't take nearly as long to scrub in as I thought it would. That new tire feel makes a world of difference on the road.

Many thanks to Ted who not only lent his tools & talent, but kept me hydrated and conversated throughout the afternoon. Super fun time! And I didn't even bust a knuckle or rip a chunk of flesh from fingers. :^ ) AB

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Installed a new Shinko Raven rear tire along with replacing the battery in the rear TPMS sensor on my '08 C-14 with just over 20K miles. The old sensor battery was reading 3.04 volts and the sensor was working fine, but I replaced it so I didn't have to worry about it, probably for as long as I have the bike. The new battery read 3.30 volts, BTW. I had already replaced the front tire & front TPMS sensor battery early last year.

Also lubed the 4 sets of needles bearing in the rear shock wishbone area.
 
Just ordered the Snake Skin Tank Grips and the bag guards for my 2013 C14. And installed new tire and front wheel bearings.
 
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replaced 6 of the 8 screws in the side cases Blue Loc tite to keep em there. I checked em last summer but they vibrated out. Not sure where the ones that came out went. Only found one in the bottom of my Bestem bag.
 
replaced 6 of the 8 screws in the side cases Blue Loc tite to keep em there. I checked em last summer but they vibrated out. Not sure where the ones that came out went. Only found one in the bottom of my Bestem bag.
Got the same issue - been periodically tightening them..
 
I installed a set of these today (Hella Supertone compact) because I had them sitting around. Installation was simple:They bolted right up, using the stock mounting bracket. It only required a short extension to the two leads. installation was not easy, due to tight working space and being on the ground. It wouldn't be so hard if done on a lift.
The sound is a big improvement over stock - it sounds like a London cab instead of a road runner. However, next time I'd go back to Piaa.
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Joined COG as a member. :cool:

My '12 is about halfway disassembled. Valve adjustment, new fluids, thorough cleaning before the snow flies...then the real work begins. Currently, I have a dual-band ham rig and a JMCB-2003 on the bike, mounted in and around the cockpit area. Those are coming off. The Givi V46 and Phil's Rack are coming off as well and are being replaced by a police-motor top box. That's going to be used to house the main chassis of two amateur radio rigs plus an auxiliary battery, charge controller and control circuits for extra lighting. Cockpit area gets reworked with extra switches and controls so I can remotely tune or operate either ham rig without taking my hands off the bars. Lots more to add - probably needs a thread unto itself when I'm done.

This is going to be a fun solo bike project. My lady friend throws rocks at the Connies anyway; she prefers riding on my cruisers.
 
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Bike at shop today, to have Michelin Road 5 GT tires (front and rear) installed. Rainy here in N. AL today and tomorrow, so will be a good test to see how well they perform, but will have to be somewhat careful since (you know) new tires can be rather slick for the first N miles>
 
Bike at shop today, to have Michelin Road 5 GT tires (front and rear) installed. Rainy here in N. AL today and tomorrow, so will be a good test to see how well they perform, but will have to be somewhat careful since (you know) new tires can be rather slick for the first N miles>

Actually, sport touring tires like these normally do not require scrub-in. When I installed my ContiMotion front I was surprised by how they were sticky right away after leaving Ted's garage. I even made a remark about it here on the forum. So I did a little research and saw some reviews where the dudes mentioned that sport touring tires aren't like other types that require ~50 to 100 miles to scrub.

Then two weeks ago I installed the new ContiMotion rear and noticed again that it too was sticky right away, which reinforced what I had learned while reading and watching reviews. That weekend we had rain in Houston-metro and I got caught on the tail end of a front that passed through. Initially I slowed way down to compensate but remembered that these aren't the OEM Battlaxes so I relaxed and was not disappointed. Zero issues with traction even on the painted parts.

So, long story short, use normal precautions when pulling away from traffic lights or hitting puddles but don't be paranoid about your new tires + wet roads under normal conditions. Don't know where you'll be riding but keep your eyes open for potholes that're filled with water. Those suck.

Looking forward to your feedback after the ride. :^ ) AB
 
"sport touring tires like these normally do not require scrub-in." Actually, they were pretty slick, as usual, so I erred on the safe side to break 'em in. Dealership noted this as well.
 
"sport touring tires like these normally do not require scrub-in." Actually, they were pretty slick, as usual, so I erred on the safe side to break 'em in. Dealership noted this as well.

Interesting. Good to know for that tire and glad you got home safely. I can assure you the ContiMotions did NOT have this issue.
 
I put on madstad windshield brackets I got from a connie member.
I checked various angles. works great, even at 120😳
 

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Im really digging the madstad. lots of adjustability.
I tried the vstream(sold it cog member after 1 ride)
I think the factory windscreen is a keeper. it has great lines and looks good for the 08.
I'm still going to leave my mra x-screen on just in case. folks the x-screen works!
here is the one I use. they have a touring model tool. well made/german
 
I'm going down for the December blast in Titusville. this will allow even more tuning. kinda weird having the windshield extended out but it does reduces buffeting
 
Im really digging the madstad. lots of adjustability.
I think the factory windscreen is a keeper. it has great lines and looks good for the 08.
I'm still going to leave my mra x-screen on just in case. folks the x-screen works!
well made/german
Maverick if you had to choose one could you determine if it is the X-Screen foil or the Madstad that had the bigger impact? Do you feel each serves its own purpose or are they complimentary?

Then the X-Screen being at the tippy-top of the windshield would appear to have a leverage point unkind to the adjustable windshield mounted. Have you experienced the X-Screen on a windy day and / or direct wind blast from oncoming large profile vehicles - if so any dramatic windshield movement?

Thanks for sharing.
 
no on windblast/truckers goin by. the x-screen is solid as rock. depending on weather conditions sometimes I fold it down or if it's really cold and rainy I'll have it at max extension. clear instead of smoke would have been a better choice but I stole this off my 250 ninja
 
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