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What have your done to your C14 today

Rode my '08.

The '12's top end work is finished. Bodywork is still off because I'm redoing a lot of the accessory electronics, and this involves building and routing lots of wiring bundles.

Also spent some time with a CAD program designing brackets for the switches, head mounts for one of the radios and for a RAM ball...the usual tedious skull work.
 
I love this bike so much. I put some more miles on today and had to grab a couple pictures.

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8F80E94F-D5F6-4941-AD9A-F0E4FBFC2FFC.jpegAdded my new tank bag. Kawasaki OEM. Very nice quality fit and finish. A little pricey but I'm very happy with the investment. It's bigger than I thought it would be, especially when unzipped and fully expanded. This gets me one step closer to being ready to make an Iron Butt attempt.
 
After 13 years & a quarter million miles of riding my C14 I felt the need to install some bar risers. Haven't ridden it yet, but just sitting on it & looking at it I'm not sure how I feel about them. Guess I need to go for a ride! :)

Does this mean one is really never finished? :unsure:
 
After 13 years & a quarter million miles of riding my C14 I felt the need to install some bar risers. Haven't ridden it yet, but just sitting on it & looking at it I'm not sure how I feel about them. Guess I need to go for a ride! :)

Does this mean one is really never finished? :unsure:
I'm interested in what you think after riding with them because twice I've been real close to taking mine off. The only reason I didn't is because I would have had to run to the hardware store to get some shorter bolts. Lmk

Dale
 
If you need a set (old guy), I have some.

Ted

I maybe getting old, but at least I'm not old & crusty! 😛

Thanks, but I already bought them & installed yesterday.

Just a suggestion....jettison that plastic luggage rack and add a gorgeous Phil's Farkels machined aluminum rack. Thank me later.

Plastic rack has long been gone!

I'm interested in what you think after riding with them because twice I've been real close to taking mine off.

Dale

It was sunny & low 60's today so I went for a test ride on all (most) of Ted's favorite roads. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna like them, or at the worst cut them down a 1/2".

If I had a stock or a low seat I wouldn't like them I'm sure of it. My seat is a 1 1/2" - 2" taller than stock which increases the reach noticeably. I had found myself seating up straighter & barely holding the bars with my finger tips on 500 - 800 mile highway runs when traveling. That's what got me thinking I might want to try them, actually been on my mind a couple years. At the same time I thought I would hate them in the twisties, but after todays ride I found my arms to more relaxed in the curves.

Should you want to pick up the bolts to have on hand in case of riser removal, the OEM size is M8 x 1.25 x 1".

Time will tell Dale.
 
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It was sunny & low 60's today so I went for a test ride on all (most) of Ted's favorite roads. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna like them, or at the worst cut them down a 1/2".
I have to have the risers as I lowered the front to match the lowered rear. Had to have room for the forks to slide up.
Didn't like the height so I removed 1/2" of material from mine.
Worked for me.

Ride safe, Ted
 
I had them on my 2010, with 1 1_2 risers and the wedges. This was the best arrangement until i found a used set of helibars. Im 5'10" 220 with short arms and a 30" inseam. I,.like most of us, started with risers, i then added the AST set back plates and thought i had the best possible compromise. I then read some nice comments about the wedges and couldnt believe how much better the wrist position was with these little slices of aluminum. Lol.

But i always knew that the helibars would solve all my arm/wrist positional issues.....and they did.
 
Not today, however it has been an ongoing project after a rock knocked an auxiliary light off the mount next to the front axel and somehow it found a way to puncture the radiator. Here is what has been done so far (some improvements are opportunistic):

* Improved Auxiliary light mount.
* Fixed radiator.
* Front wheel (damaged by hanging auxiliary light) sanded, gouges prepped, primed with high build primer, painted and clear coated.
* New TPMS sensors installed (purchased on ebay after front stopped working despite battery changes).
* KDS3 software successfully used as seen above! (thank you to members on this site that helped me get the KDS software up and running!!)
* Extra active and passive FOB's registered (always nice to have a back up for long planned tripps).

I struggle with my painting skills, however they have improved to slightly less than decent. Thank you to members that helped me getting my KDS system functioning and allowing me the ability to register new equipment!

Dan
 
Changed oil & filter, filled tank, added Stabil, covered with bike cover and placed some moth balls under the bike to help keep the mice away.
 
View attachment 30955Added my new tank bag. Kawasaki OEM. Very nice quality fit and finish. A little pricey but I'm very happy with the investment. It's bigger than I thought it would be, especially when unzipped and fully expanded. This gets me one step closer to being ready to make an Iron Butt attempt.


Trust me, you don't need a tank bag to do an Iron Butt ride, especially a SS1K. Just make sure you get good receipts ( date, time & Location ) and don't forget to get a starting & ending witness to verify your odometer reading. Assume your odometer is not accurate and use a mapping program to determine the miles of your route. And make sure you get corner receipts ( where your route changes directions ).

I did a Great Lakes 100 on my C-14 a few years ago. Took a hit paying for premium gas up in Canada.
 
ECU shows up early. Thanks for the ultra quick turn around Steve! Was able to get a 10 mile around the block test ride in and all I can say is WOW. Glad I didn't wait to do this.

Even with the limited ride, the Mountain Runner Premium flash promises to be outstanding. Would be worth the cost just to remove the fuel injection shut off behavior.

The Area P can sounds phenomenal. Not too loud at cruise speed but gets freaking angry when you get on it.
 

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I went for another 50 mile ride today. I decided to remove the foam grips I bought. I'm not sure why but I feel like the bike handles without them. Which I guess means I handle the bike better without them. Acceleration seems better too without them. I can't explain it.
 
Did you have foam grips, or foam Grip Puppies?
I tried the Grip Puppies and didn't like them as the OD was too big.
But the OEM Grips were too small OD and hard for my tastes.
I eventually installed BMX bicycle slip on cover's over the OEM Grips.
The setup is slightly bigger than OEM, but smaller than Grip Puppies, and the Heated grips still work.
That combination works well for me.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Lately...spent some time in my CAD program designing some brackets for the radio-control switches that will interface with two amateur radio rigs. They're going into a re-purposed police top box. Converting this particular C14 to solo use; a high-speed pursuit bike. (I can pursue both of my favorite hobbies at speed with it.)

These brackets replace the ones which came with parts I got from Beaudry Motors (Gem Police) and I've indicated that if the designs work, they're free to do whatever they want with them. I'll also make the files available to whomever would like them as well, along with designs for a plate for the sub-fender which incorporates marker lights and a helmet lock.

Also got a Motochello MC200 audio system to tie all the comms together. Lots more wiring and mechanicals to build inside the top box before this is ready; I'm basically re-inventing the "police bike wheel" from scratch here and hopefully eliminating all the gotchas which caused that program to ultimately fail.
 
Over the last few weeks I have been dedicating a couple hours a day to taking care of maintenance issues. Checked valves, flushed brakes/clutch, oil and coolest change, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned and lubed windshield , and LEDs in the headlights.

Next on the list when it warms a bit is getting crash bars painted and polishing everything up and put the bodywork on. Should be good for another 80k.
 
Looked at the long range forecast, snow and temps not getting above freezing, so took the battery out of her to avoid the drain. Might even clean some bugs and mud off in the weeks to come.
 
What? Another upgrade? I was under the impression that once upgraded and done , as far as the ecm was concerned.
What? Another upgrade? I was under the impression that once upgraded and done , as far as the ecm was concerned.
The post you quoted is over 4 years old. He sent the ECU back because he had started with a stock header, and replaced it with the largest header available, the area P header. Obviously the tuning would need to be changed for the new header.

Steve
 
I am sorry to ask and please forgive my ignorance. This thread is, "What have you done to your C14 today".

The post from viper717220005600 is resurrecting another post that is years in arrears and seems devicive or wanting comment to be used in another way. There is no mention of what they have done to their C14 today.

To me this post seems incicere. My apologies in advance to viper717220005600 if I am reading between the lines too finely.
 
The post you quoted is over 4 years old. He sent the ECU back because he had started with a stock header, and replaced it with the largest header available, the area P header. Obviously the tuning would need to be changed for the new header.

Steve
As I am fairly new to the site, I only figured the date out AFTER I made the comment. OOPS! Also, a header change would definitely be cause for an upgrade. My Bad.

Ivan
 
Not a problem Viper.
People take typed messages wrong.
The reply to your question was not derogatory.
It's just an explanation of the answer.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Got out the Lemon Pledge and a soft cloth, gave her a little sponge bath and love.
That Pledge smells good!
Shes happy in a heated garage w/ a tender and new RS3's and a oil change.
I hope Santa doesn't spot her and ditch the reindeer for something faster/ more fun.
Nick 2014 C-14
 
Lubed the windscreen tracks. I noticed the FSM calls for silicone on the two outside tracks and 'olefin' grease for the center. I also searched the digital FSM for any other mention of this grease and the word is used only one time in the whole manual! Now, I've worked on lots of cars and a handful of motorcycles and never seen a grease called out that way, so I did some research... turns out that in most cases this is just synthetic grease. Olefin = Polyalphaolefin or PAO and is the most common base stock for synthetic automotive or industrial greases. So weird that Kawi would call that out specifically...

I ended up using a synthetic lithium grease as I couldn't find any other clear indication of the correct grease to use on this.

Also received a shipment notification for my 2.225mm shims I've been waiting on so I can finally finish my valve adjustment and get the motor back together. I can't believe that valve shims are on backorder everywhere, I guess just another instance of the global supply chain being disrupted.
 
Replaced the top box lock. Recently installed T-Rex engine guards. Replaced a low fob battery. Exercised the bike with a 100 mile ride.
 
She needed some new pads and rotors due to wear. Did the rear pads too. Next weekend is fluids.

Any idea why a single pad out of eight would wear so much quicker in the front?
View attachment 31455
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Heard uneven wear can be caused by the linked brakes when using only or mostly front brake. Some guys flip them every year to get even wear. I went and checked mine and they all looked the same. You could have had one really sticky piston/pin.
 
Heard uneven wear can be caused by the linked brakes when using only or mostly front brake. Some guys flip them every year to get even wear. I went and checked mine and they all looked the same. You could have had one really sticky piston/pin.
👆My bike the PO used the rear brake alot I think. One set of pads was wore and the other looked like new. I rarely use the rear and I polish the pins now and then. Pads wear evenly.
 
Did you have foam grips, or foam Grip Puppies?
I tried the Grip Puppies and didn't like them as the OD was too big.
But the OEM Grips were too small OD and hard for my tastes.
Interesting ....I had the same problem and settled on Original Grip Buddies https://www.shop.originalbeemerbuddies.com/SMARTSKIN-OBB-AB-SS-OBB-AB-SS.htm with the thinner material being much more to my liking. Went through a couple sets in 145K as my Motoport gloves are a little rough on grips.

Unfortunately the only thing i did to my baby today was work on my helmet comms and headset/ear buds and walk down to the barn and say hello and pat her on the haunches.
 
Today, I installed a set of "pathfinder LED headlights" . Very straight forward plug and play stuff. I want to replace the stock seat BUT cannot quite come to terms with the cost of a "russel". There is a local Guy who has been rebuilding/ shaping seats for many years and I might give him a try.
 
Nothing major, but pre-spring preparations on both my C14 and Marina's (wife) Honda Shadow w/ oil & oil filter changes. Next weekend I'll get to changing the final gear oil on both.
 
What have I done to my red 08 lately?
Quite a bit. Setting it up to fit me.
Thanks to COG members I was able to get an almost new VStream and wind deflectors and a front peg lowering kit as a VERY good price.
Thank you. Installed a Phil’s rack for my Givi top case. Super solid.
Looking for mounting hardware to install two driving lights on the canyon cages. Think I found something and should arrive soon.

The only thing I need is a set of new or used throttle Miesters.
Can’t locate any in Canada. Anyone out there have a set?
New tires are in order.
Can’t wait for the snow to go away and get some kms on the bike.
It only has 8300 kms on it. I’ll rectify that this summer!
Hopefully see you at the Bun Cooler!
 

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Put the battery back in. Started it. Warmed to operating temperature. Turned off. The nights later this week could only drop to the high 20's, so if the freezing fog stops forming I will ride to work to enjoy the mid 40's ride home. Aired up the tires in all 5 bikes, but want to run the C-14...the only one with grip warmers.
 
Put the battery back in. Started it. Warmed to operating temperature. Turned off. The nights later this week could only drop to the high 20's, so if the freezing fog stops forming I will ride to work to enjoy the mid 40's ride home. Aired up the tires in all 5 bikes, but want to run the C-14...the only one with grip warmers.
Grip warmers, and excellent wind protection! I rode my KLR 650 the other day, it was 45* and despite having good grip warmers and barkbusters, my knees were missing the fairings on the C14! (And the gobs of power, too, obviously)
 
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RIvco highway pegs mounted to the T-Rex engine guard. Many thanks to COG member tfj230 (Tyler) who patiently answered my dumb questions.
 

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RIvco highway pegs mounted to the T-Rex engine guard. Many thanks to COG member tfj230 (Tyler) who patiently answered my dumb questions.
Just be careful in the twisties. Make sure you have them folded up. I have different engine guards than you but I did have to relocate my pegs because I kept scraping the set/stop screw on the bottom of the peg.

Ride safe, stay healthy
Dale
 

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Just be careful in the twisties. Make sure you have them folded up. I have different engine guards than you but I did have to relocate my pegs because I kept scraping the set/stop screw on the bottom of the peg.

Ride safe, stay healthy
Dale
They’re up pretty high (higher than the ones on my Goldwing) but, I understand, If I drag these, I’m probably already in trouble. I don’t unfold them anywhere but “straight and flat.”
 
First ride of 2022 👍, brief but enjoyable 160 mile lunch round trip.

Temps in SE PA today flirting with 60 then at 70+ Miles from home temps suddenly dropped to upper 30’s - thank goodness for heated gear. We keep carrying layers in the case something goes up in smoke but loving the light-dressing and controlling our microclimate with press of a button.
 
Having the option of stretching the legs makes a world of difference, even on a 100 mile ride before i had my torn meniscus trimmed up i even added a set of Ronnies pegs. Who would have thought moving ur foot forward about an inch and a half ( 1 1/2 inches) would make such an improvement.
 

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Both of you are exactly right. About an hour and my knees are starting to be a real pain - literally. I’ve had this bike for seven years. Now I can keep it seven more (maybe). I think it’ll be a nice augmentation to the “tour” part of sport-touring.

I can now rest my legs straight out. These will stay folded and out of the most of the time,
 
Both of you are exactly right. About an hour and my knees are starting to be a real pain - literally. I’ve had this bike for seven years. Now I can keep it seven more (maybe). I think it’ll be a nice augmentation to the “tour” part of sport-touring.

I can now rest my legs straight out. These will stay folded and out of the most of the time,

Interesting that you guys mention the knees being an issue. I've had my right knee scoped already, and will likely need my left knee done in the next year or two. But this isn't my biggest pain or cause for concern (yet).

Not sure how many of y'all have felt a stabbing pain in the front right hip, but it gets me every now and then. It's a sudden cramp and deep discomfort in my right hip flexor heading down into my groin. It usually starts in about 10 to 15 mins on the bike, and when it comes on it's like a hurricane. If I try to relax and let it play itself out it'll get super acute. If I tense up and try to flex my way through it there's a bit slight bit of a tapering effect, but it still peaks before calming down. I'll also stand straight up on the pegs when this happens if traffic permits, maybe twice or three times before it eventually calms down. Sometimes if it's lasting longer than one stop light I'll dig my right thumb into the muscle at the crease in my pants at the top of the pocket. That can help too, but not always and it doesn't usually keep it from peaking before passing.

Am wondering if anyone has already figured this out. Other than getting old and clunky, is there another cause (like bursitis or osteoarthritis) that we need to be looking out for? Any MDs, DOs or DCs in our midst who can educate us?

1644847432916.png
 
Interesting that you guys mention the knees being an issue. I've had my right knee scoped already, and will likely need my left knee done in the next year or two. But this isn't my biggest pain or cause for concern (yet).

Not sure how many of y'all have felt a stabbing pain in the front right hip, but it gets me every now and then. It's a sudden cramp and deep discomfort in my right hip flexor heading down into my groin. It usually starts in about 10 to 15 mins on the bike, and when it comes on it's like a hurricane. If I try to relax and let it play itself out it'll get super acute. If I tense up and try to flex my way through it there's a bit slight bit of a tapering effect, but it still peaks before calming down. I'll also stand straight up on the pegs when this happens if traffic permits, maybe twice or three times before it eventually calms down. Sometimes if it's lasting longer than one stop light I'll dig my right thumb into the muscle at the crease in my pants at the top of the pocket. That can help too, but not always and it doesn't usually keep it from peaking before passing.

Am wondering if anyone has already figured this out. Other than getting old and clunky, is there another cause (like bursitis or osteoarthritis) that we need to be looking out for? Any MDs, DOs or DCs in our midst who can educate us?

View attachment 31538
Yeah that happens to me sometimes. I have to hold it straight out while I howl in my helment. Then it normally calms down. I think it's a function of being "folded up" as much as anything. (My legs are a LITTLE longer than Ted's ---) :) But's funny that this didn't USED to bother me. LOL...
 
I hate to say it, because it's such a simple thing, but I think that hydration has a big impact on these 'cramping' sort of issues, for me at least. Most of us don't drink enough water. I tend to have fewer issues when it's warmer out, because I tend to drink a lot more water when it's warm and I know I'll be sweating a bit. If it's mild out (50-60*) I tend to cramp a lot more. Just something to think about.
 
In my case, it's normally when I first get on the bike, or after a stop at a red light.
So, I don't think it's hydration as much as a muscle spasm from setting in a different position. (with legs spread on the bike vs standing)
Normally, standing while riding briefly, or stopping/getting off the bike for a few seconds and it goes away.

Ride safe, Ted
 
In my case, it's normally when I first get on the bike, or after a stop at a red light.
So, I don't think it's hydration as much as a muscle spasm from setting in a different position. (with legs spread on the bike vs standing)
Normally, standing while riding briefly, or stopping/getting off the bike for a few seconds and it goes away.

Ride safe, Ted
I have the same thing happen to me usually at the beginning of a multi day ride after a layoff from riding. I can get it in both hips and it usually happens within the first hour of riding and normally only after a stop for gas or at a red light. If I'm lucky and only get it in one hip then I can shift sideways in the seat and stretch out the leg on the affected side straight out along side the bike and the pain subsides. It is definitely related to how far my knees are apart while trying to exert downward pressure to hold up the bike when stopped. Really intense pain, so bad that I worry about dropping the bike if I try to stop and get off. Then after that first bout of pain it doesn't come back for the remainder of the trip, be it days or weeks. It's always after a significant break in riding. It happened once to me at a Yamaha demo day when I hadn't ridden in awhile, I got on a FJR and left the dealer in a follow the leader type procession and thought just as we pulled out into traffic that I was going to drop the bike if we stopped....fortunately we made all of the lights and the pain subsided in 5 minutes. I'm sure it has something to do with the hip joint and spreading the legs while trying to hold up the bike and that there is probably an exercise or stretching that could be done before a ride to address it before a trip...but I haven't found it yet. Searching the internet seems to only find long term chronic problems and nothing about an intense temporary pain. I'm sure it isn't a cramp and I highly doubt it has anything to do with hydration as it's always too early in the trip.
 
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I didn't necessarily mean lost hydration from riding; I just mean overall hydration level. I have the same thing though, cramp isn't really the right word but it's usually fast onset and very strong. I sometimes get it after being on the bike for a while, hopping off for a quick stop and then swinging my leg back over the bike to start on again... it comes on after bringing my leg back onto the peg. Weight bearing the the best way to make it go away (standing on pegs) but sometimes just stretching my leg out will make it subside.

Maybe it's just me. 😁 I just know that the more hydrated you are, the smoother your joints are able to move... and also with adequate levels of electrolytes, the better the body is able to keep water distributed where needed.

 
Interesting that you guys mention the knees being an issue. I've had my right knee scoped already, and will likely need my left knee done in the next year or two. But this isn't my biggest pain or cause for concern (yet).

Not sure how many of y'all have felt a stabbing pain in the front right hip, but it gets me every now and then. It's a sudden cramp and deep discomfort in my right hip flexor heading down into my groin. It usually starts in about 10 to 15 mins on the bike, and when it comes on it's like a hurricane. If I try to relax and let it play itself out it'll get super acute. If I tense up and try to flex my way through it there's a bit slight bit of a tapering effect, but it still peaks before calming down. I'll also stand straight up on the pegs when this happens if traffic permits, maybe twice or three times before it eventually calms down. Sometimes if it's lasting longer than one stop light I'll dig my right thumb into the muscle at the crease in my pants at the top of the pocket. That can help too, but not always and it doesn't usually keep it from peaking before passing.

Am wondering if anyone has already figured this out. Other than getting old and clunky, is there another cause (like bursitis or osteoarthritis) that we need to be looking out for? Any MDs, DOs or DCs in our midst who can educate us?

View attachment 31538
This happens to me a lot, usually when I first get on the bike or when I move from high way bars back to pegs. What I do is stand up (edit; on the pegs)and sit down 3 or 4 times in a row . Seems to get things aligned.
 
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I installed HVMP Weighted Bar Ends today.
Won them at the National last year.
Thank you HVMP.
PS: The Bar Ends did a lot to help my Joint Pain.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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In my case, it's normally when I first get on the bike, or after a stop at a red light.
So, I don't think it's hydration as much as a muscle spasm from setting in a different position. (with legs spread on the bike vs standing)
Normally, standing while riding briefly, or stopping/getting off the bike for a few seconds and it goes away.

Ride safe, Ted

I installed HVMP Weighted Bar Ends today.
Won them at the National last year.
Thank you HVMP.
PS: The Bar Ends did a lot to help my Joint Pain.

Ride safe, Ted
Per usual, I have no idea what you are trying to say here...or are you joking and I don't get it (also as usual :D)?
I understood the install, and the Thank You to HVMP, but how did bar ends you just installed today help with joint pain? I assume in your wrists? :unsure:
 
He s trying to put the yhread back on topic....yhis is yhe what have u done to your c14 thread.

Ron had suggested a new thread be started regarding our old bones and aches and pains...lol
 
I got a new set of Dunlop RS 3's installed, All the fluids are changed. Ready to go when it warms up.
Nick
2014 C-14
I have run mine since last year and looking at the wear I figure they will go about 6K. Be interesting to see how yours compare, though it could be apples to guavas with differing roads, type of riding, loads, etc.
 
ZX
This new set of RS 3's replaced another set of RS 3's, they went exactly 5K and I think I ran the rear a few hundred too long as it was down into the darker rubber under the tread in a few spots.
Nick
2014-C14
 
He s trying to put the yhread back on topic....yhis is yhe what have u done to your c14 thread.

Ron had suggested a new thread be started regarding our old bones and aches and pains...lol
Ahh so...then a "well done Ted" is in order. (ouch, that hurt a bit :p)

After having my leaky fork seals replaced I went on a several day trip doing some west Texas twisties. Butch (rbentdude, riding partner) asked if they felt any different and I said no just the same to me. Then on the last day of the ride we went to a restaurant for dinner that wasn't within walking distance to the hotel, and on the way back in the dark I noticed how low my headlights were aimed. I didn't think the shop would have any reason to change my fork settings but it turns out they did. My preload was way low, (on topic -->) so today, I raised it back up to approx. were it should be. It's a testament to my lack of ability, or lack of feel of the bike that I rode for several days and didn't notice any difference until my head light aim showed me a clue, 'cause my insensitive derriere sure didn't have any. :rolleyes: :cry:
 
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Today, in Winterpeg, Maniitscolda, Canada, I finished re-installing my home made tip over bars. I had previously built and installed these however as most things go, decided that mods were required.The original design actually decreased the lean angle by a degree or two. Not acceptable. Also, I use hi-way pegs on long trips. These did not work well for attachment points. The newer design does not limit the lean angle and has built in mount for the Hi-way pegs / driving lights. Once spring "SPRINGS" here, I will see how these work out.
I have a few pics but sadly cannot figure out how to attach.
 
Today, in Winterpeg, Maniitscolda, Canada, I finished re-installing my home made tip over bars. I had previously built and installed these however as most things go, decided that mods were required.The original design actually decreased the lean angle by a degree or two. Not acceptable. Also, I use hi-way pegs on long trips. These did not work well for attachment points. The newer design does not limit the lean angle and has built in mount for the Hi-way pegs / driving lights. Once spring "SPRINGS" here, I will see how these work out.
I have a few pics but sadly cannot figure out how to attach.

If I remember correctly, only full members can post pictures, just one of many reasons to become a full member and.. well.. I'm also very interested in seeing your tip over bars 😃😃
 
Installed a Lithium Iron Battery (a little bit ago) and cleaned and tested some problem electrical connections (Love the cranking power). Looking forward to a great riding season. I am also keeping an AGM battery on a tender for trips I don't want trouble on until I have full faith the new Lithium Iron battery won't give me trouble on cold trips.
 
Plugged a half new PR4GT; fussed a bit about trash in the roadway, then ordered a replacement tire and then afterwards rode away on the Goldwing. Beautiful day to ride-sunny and 75.
 
My right side header pipe started leaking exhaust because the nuts rattled free and fell off. Just spent a good amount of time doing my first lower fairing removals on both sides. Once they we out of the way I loosened the upper radiator bolts and removed the lower brace bolt. That allowed me to swing the radiator far enough forward so I could reach all the nuts. A few others were loose. I put locktite on all 8 of them and then went through the re assembly process. It wasn't a joy to do all of that.

Its cooled off again here in Socal and the mountains have another layer of snow on them. It might have hit 60 today... tonight its down around 35 degrees again. I like this weather for riding... wear all my gear and feel cozy and well protected!
 
Time to refresh all the fluids and see what has and has not been done on the maintenance side of things on a '13 with 8k on the odo.
Observations:
- the air filter was the biggest surprise, it looked pretty darn good compared to some others I have seen, still swapped it.
- Bosche brake fluid is like a neon yellow, ok I guess, I am used to the clear stuff so when it starts to yellow I know it's time to change
- coolant DID have some in there but was low and seemed really concentrated, maybe some evaporation.
- from the looks of everything but the filter, it was waaay past due to replace. 9 years and 8,000 miles later, it was time.
- I decided to hold off on the fork oil till I pull the front tire for replacement. I am sure it is original but it will need to wait a few more months
- brakes are in good shape, but will clean when I do the fork oil swap, front tire
 

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Flushing coolant system wasn't too bad, took 3 engine heat cycles , 3 gallons of distilled 25/75 vinegar mix. I then took pressurized air to get as much out as possible. Didn't feel like breaking down entire system with only 8k on it. The oil wasn't too bad looking and nothing shiny in it (thank goodness). Had an Kawi filter, I always use the bigger Mobil filter, makes it easy to just put 5 quarts in instead of 4.7. Yes, I did mix the Mobil motorcycle oil with the T6, it was the last T6 they had and I wasn't going to shop around town. The gear oil was pretty bad and not much in there, not too sure why that is but, good to go now.

more pics...
 

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Good pics! Looks like the fluids were for sure ready for replacement. The air filter looked ok for that year bike, but only 9k miles? I pulled mine out last time I had the fairing off (about 2k ago when I was at 10k miles) and it was still cleaner than yours. Maybe sitting for so long let stuff get gunky? In any case, I'm sure your machine is going to be very appreciative of the refresh! :^ ) Thx for sharing! AB
 
I have seen this thread on other bike forums like the BMW GS and FJR and these threads always cost me money :D by seeing what other people have done to their bike. I didn't see one for the C14 so I thought I would start it. ;D

Today I installed the G2 throttle tamer to my 2013, fairly straight forward and easy job, then I put the throttlemeister on (thanks Reid) took a little adjustment to make it work right, but now I am ready to go, well after I get a new LED headlight for the one I mucked up :mad:

So, what have you done to your C14 today. :great:
I put a throttle meister on today on my 09. I’m having a bit of an issue
I have seen this thread on other bike forums like the BMW GS and FJR and these threads always cost me money :D by seeing what other people have done to their bike. I didn't see one for the C14 so I thought I would start it. ;D

Today I installed the G2 throttle tamer to my 2013, fairly straight forward and easy job, then I put the throttlemeister on (thanks Reid) took a little adjustment to make it work right, but now I am ready to go, well after I get a new LED headlight for the one I mucked up :mad:

So, what have you done to your C14 today. :great:
 
I have seen this thread on other bike forums like the BMW GS and FJR and these threads always cost me money :D by seeing what other people have done to their bike. I didn't see one for the C14 so I thought I would start it. ;D

Today I installed the G2 throttle tamer to my 2013, fairly straight forward and easy job, then I put the throttlemeister on (thanks Reid) took a little adjustment to make it work right, but now I am ready to go, well after I get a new LED headlight for the one I mucked up :mad:

So, what have you done to your C14 today. :great:
I put a TM on my 09 today. Having issues getting it adjusted as well.
Tried numerous shims etc but best I can get it still doesn’t quite hold. Drops slowly. Do I take out a shim to get more grab? Any insight would help. Thanks.
 
Hopefully, your state has the legalized bribery program they call "deferment". Jack up the fine and they forget all about it. My last ticket in my Mark VII was about $250 under the deferment program. I passed an unmarked car. As soon as I got back in my lane, here come the lights. Oops.
 
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