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What have your done to your C14 today

Hopefully, your state has the legalized bribery program they call "deferment". Jack up the fine and they forget all about it. My last ticket in my Mark VII was about $250 under the deferment program. I passed an unmarked car. As soon as I got back in my lane, here come the lights. Oops.

Yikes. At that price point you must have been in the triple digits. That was about 8 tank fill ups at today's $/gal. LOL
 
Nope. 2 lane road 55 mph speed limit. I pass quickly and hit 72 mph when I got back in my lane. Ticket without deferral I think was $175.
 
Hopefully, your state has the legalized bribery program they call "deferment". Jack up the fine and they forget all about it. My last ticket in my Mark VII was about $250 under the deferment program. I passed an unmarked car. As soon as I got back in my lane, here come the lights. Oops.
I did that on Memorial day weekend on the highway here in Ct. I was going between the middle and right lanes as all the idiots are in the passing lane. I was doing 80 plus, he wasn't happy lol. I think it was $400
 
What did they pop you for? Glad my state does not use the point system.
They were pretty clever I will give them that... This was 6:45 but traffic felt like 5, anyway, 4 lane HWY, guards locked on the inside, on the outside, they had a SUV with hood open, and a cop with laser gun , looking like he was a pedestrian under the hood, I barely saw him shoot me, but had that feeling like" was that a...?" right after him was a long tall bridge about 1.5 miles long from end to end, no way to get off, or change direction. once I crested the bridge you could see 6-8 cop cars sitting at the bottom. There was no way for anyone to tag WAZE because it was 2 miles past the guy lasering. I squatted coming down the bridge behind/side a 18 wheeler but he was ready for me. I thought for a second to let it fly, but this is a cop bike, and there are very few c-14 in this town, maybe 5 and mine, I am betting is the only blue one, so that idea was bad. I whipped over, flipped him my DL, he didn't even ask for registration, or ins.. I was ROLLIN too. He took it down to the least amount he could... 2 points and $76. I could do a defensive driving school for 8hours to dissolve the points but may not. I haven't gotten a ticket in 20 years but this bike is going to test that. It was also a good reminder NOTHING will stop the police from catching you speeding if they want to. Those 8 cop cars had 8 speeders all lined up on the side, quick tickets...in an out.. I bet the whole "sting" took them less that 15 minutes to tag, ticket, an out....They know WAZE obviously and know how to beat it. The final was 76 in a 65, I thanked him.
 
They were pretty clever I will give them that... It was also a good reminder NOTHING will stop the police from catching you speeding if they want to. Those 8 cop cars had 8 speeders all lined up on the side, quick tickets...in an out.. I bet the whole "sting" took them less that 15 minutes to tag, ticket...

Depending on which department it was, they're just hitting quotas and send a message for regular motorists. I've spoken with a few of my LEO freinds and they say these "wolf packs" are designed by the local troop to calm down an area that has started to get outta hand. Too many complaints of people cutting across multiple lanes or racing will draw attention to a section of highway.

Sometimes they're also working the kinks out of new tactics, disguising them in the form of speed traps. What they're actually for is snatching up HVTs (high value targets) like dope runners or fugitives. The general public only sees the lines of cars with emergency flashers, other vehicles with red and blue flashing lights, and tickets being handed out. It'll reverberate through the community for about a month before things return to normal.

Spring break is upon us and the college kids are let loose on our roadways. Depending on where you're at it could be on the route commonly used by people heading to certain venues. I remember in FL when I was heading downtown to Gasparilla one day and got clipped doing 90+ by a FHP Trooper. Oof, that was expensive ($300+) and I had to listen to the wife nag about it for 6 months (which was worse than having to take the driver safety course LOL). Trooper knew right away where I was headed because 90% of the traffic was heading down there.

Have fun. Ride safe! :^ ) AB
 
Changed my fuel filter and air filter. The fuel filter wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. The air filter was way worse than I expected.

Next up, a trip to Fred's for it's first valve adjustment. Approximately 18,000 on the clock.

Be safe and stay healthy,
Dale
 

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Changed my fuel filter and air filter. The fuel filter wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. The air filter was way worse than I expected.

Next up, a trip to Fred's for it's first valve adjustment. Approximately 18,000 on the clock.

Be safe and stay healthy,
Dale

I feel the 7.5K mile platinum NGK spark plug mileage change is hogwash, however, air filter replacement interval is 11K miles ➡️ mine is always ready for a change by that point. So no surprises how dirty your air filter was.
 
I checked my tires pressures, inspected for rodent damage and rode 115 miles with my better half. :)
I really need to flush my brake/clutch tho, its been 3 yrs...
 
Yesterday,
Cleared out the front of the garage and moved the bike from the back to the front where it belongs.

Checked the tire pressures, (down around 4 psi from November) aired them up to 42 psi and turned the key to be greeted by "Low Transponder Battery". (also from November) Pushed the starter button and ... It's Alive!

Went into house and got my helmet and my 14 yr old daughter asked if she could go for the ride ... YES!

Went for a nice 20 minute ride on my favorite local loop and parked it back at the front of the garage.
 
Murphs Bearinged Up shifter last week on the new to me 2018. .. TOok it for a ride. I had forgot what a difference in feel. Shifter is accurate and positive. Had been noticing that I was feeling unsuredness with the shift but Murphs piece is really a difference maker for me. Click Click Click.
 
I feel the 7.5K mile platinum NGK spark plug mileage change is hogwash, however, air filter replacement interval is 11K miles ➡️ mine is always ready for a change by that point. So no surprises how dirty your air filter was.
Changed my plugs at 34k and 78k. Looked great both times.
 
I just finished up with a spring tune up on a fellow cogger/good friend's concours. I can do one of these in a week if anyone is interested. I don't work too hard! $1000 for everything you see, plus parts. I buy from Partshark.com, which is the cheapest I've ever found. I can do about anything else on a concours you can think of without needing a KDS.
 

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Just did my first update. Madstad windshield bracket. There is a bigger gap on the side than I care for, but it will work for now.

View attachment 31872View attachment 31873View attachment 31874

Next up is this crampbuster and tie down rings. Anyone have a picture of locations to add the tie down bracket? I have 4 I want to place.
View attachment 31875

Yeah, I had a feeling those brackets were going to make a pretty sizable gap, thus making a channel for any rain to rush straight up and into the pocket.

Thx for the excellent photos!
 
Yeah, I had a feeling those brackets were going to make a pretty sizable gap, thus making a channel for any rain to rush straight up and into the pocket.

Thx for the excellent photos!
I'm hoping the gap underneath is ok for rain. Someone mentioned there is no issue.

What I don't like is that the fairing has a big cap. See pic. Not the end of the world, I can live with it.
IMG_20220324_180056__01.jpg
 
Just did my first update. Madstad windshield bracket. There is a bigger gap on the side than I care for, but it will work for now.

View attachment 31872View attachment 31873View attachment 31874

Next up is this crampbuster and tie down rings. Anyone have a picture of locations to add the tie down bracket? I have 4 I want to place.
View attachment 31875

That gap does take some getting used too. I hated it at first also, just depends on your priorities looks or function. RDL seats, canyon cages & fender extenders are all ugly as hell, but they work.

Yeah, I had a feeling those brackets were going to make a pretty sizable gap, thus making a channel for any rain to rush straight up and into the pocket.

This keeps getting brought up by someone with no experience with these brackets, much like saying a tire is junk you've never tried. Speaking with many miles of rain riding with these brackets it's non-issue!
 
That gap does take some getting used too. I hated it at first also, just depends on your priorities looks or function. RDL seats, canyon cages & fender extenders are all ugly as hell, but they work.



This keeps getting brought up by someone with no experience with these brackets, much like saying a tire is junk you've never tried. Speaking with many miles of rain riding with these brackets it's non-issue!
I agree. Always prefer function over looks. I may try to tighten it down a little more. But I've accepted it. This weekend I get a new helmet and will test her out.
 
This keeps getting brought up by someone with no experience with these brackets, much like saying a tire is junk you've never tried. Speaking with many miles of rain riding with these brackets it's non-issue!

Cliff, apologies if it’s been coming across wrong. Based on what you’re saying, I’m interested to hear what DonJuan’s experience is going to be. Not trying to kick dirt on your shoes amigo!

My experience with the stock windshield is that when I have it up in a rainstorm I get a lot of spray over the instrument panel, and it worse if I have the vent open because I’m trying to cut down on the buffeting. You’ve got infinitely more miles in the saddle than I do so I’ll take what you’re sharing on faith and wait for more input.

Hope you have an excellent weekend of riding! AB
 
Installed new Lithium battery. The engineer responsible for ease of battery replacement should be fired.
Body color battery cover(1 bolt) on top of black battery cover(4 bolts).
Remove those covers to reveal a metal bar holding the battery tray(2 bolts).
Remove -/+ lead wires from battery as you are sliding battery tray out(2 bolts), then remove the strap holding the battery to the battery tray.
My ground wire ring terminal was cracked where it attaches to the frame, so I replaced the ring terminal.
New battery in, now I can go wash and get it ready to ride for the season.
 
I seen a heat shield on another Delk a guy was selling. Got one on amazon for $16. I have burnt my leg, boots and pants so this was worth a shot. It didn't fit the curve well so I shortened it and it's not to shabby for a generic part . Pics aren't to good. It's crammed in the corner waiting for a bit of good weather.

First pic is what it looks like before cut.
 

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I seen a heat shield on another Delk a guy was selling. Got one on amazon for $16. I have burnt my leg, boots and pants so this was worth a shot. It didn't fit the curve well so I shortened it and it's not to shabby for a generic part . Pics aren't to good. It's crammed in the corner waiting for a bit of good weather.

First pic is what it looks like before cut.
 

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Cliff, apologies if it’s been coming across wrong. Based on what you’re saying, I’m interested to hear what DonJuan’s experience is going to be. Not trying to kick dirt on your shoes amigo!

My experience with the stock windshield is that when I have it up in a rainstorm I get a lot of spray over the instrument panel, and it worse if I have the vent open because I’m trying to cut down on the buffeting. You’ve got infinitely more miles in the saddle than I do so I’ll take what you’re sharing on faith and wait for more input.

Hope you have an excellent weekend of riding! AB
I probably could have worded that differently. I don't always translate my thoughts into written words well, forum, text or emails it doesn't matter.
 
Spent more money on the electronics side of my '12 project. Got a pair of Auxito 600K headlamps to replace the HID units I have been running. Installed the radio control unit mount on the riser blocks and installed the arm for my IC-703+ control head. Found a bracket (that I hope works) for the control head of my Motochello MC-200, and managed to snag another complete unit...cheap. That one will probably go on the '08 after this project is finished.

Had designed a bunch of handlebar mounting brackets on CAD for the various control switches for my HF/6M and 2M/440 ham rigs. Got prototypes back...corrected all my "off by one" errors and will resubmit the files for the final versions.

As soon as it gets warm enough to remove the tank I've got to pop it off and install all the various control and power lines this project will need. There's a bunch.
 
I probably could have worded that differently. I don't always translate my thoughts into written words well, forum, text or emails it doesn't matter.

No blood, no foul Cliff. :^ ) It's all good. I don't sweat the petty stuff, but have been known to pet the sweaty stuff (when she ain't too mad about me riding all the time). LOL
 
Installed an Admore Light Bar Pro to make my a$$ look brighter (it already looks big).

I purchased the Kawasaki wire harness and it was easy. Except for the part clearly marked in the instructions that I didn't bother to read that said if the tail light doesn't work to swap the red & blue wires. The rest was literally plug & play.

This light is BRIGHT and I especially like the fact it has an accelerometer to activate the brake light when engine braking. Plus it has progressive turn signals. I've wanted them since I first saw them as a kid on the Mercury Cougar!
 
Installed an Admore Light Bar Pro to make my a$$ look brighter (it already looks big).
For the '12 project I mentioned above I'm going to use two pairs of Whelen TIR3/LIN3 amber and red lights mounted to the rear of the police radio box in a dual light housing. It's already configured for this particular light model combo (I researched the required parts for months). The sides of the box will accommodate a single -3 series light along with an 0S-series marker. I'll set these up with red lights and control them via a handlebar mounted switch.

Rear ambers become auxiliary turn signals and rear reds, auxiliary brake/running lights.

My '08...originally I was going to utilize a set of Feniex lights and a custom mounting arrangement on the radio box. Finding the correct Whelen lights eliminated the need and now I have a couple of pairs of excess lights. What to do? Well, mechanical engineering via CAD is like riding a bicycle: You never really forget how. Both of my C14s have a custom antenna mounting bracket/trunk plate riser that's 1" high; it mounts atop the OEM tail rails and a Phil's Farkles trunk plate is mounted atop it.

The rear horizontal arm of this mount is where the antenna brackets themselves attach, along with a pair of helmet locks. I started thinking about designing a unified mounting plate which will allow the Feniex lights to be attached along with a pair of SO-239 mounts for the antennas; one on each side of my V46L. SendCutSend (who I use for my laser-cut prototypes) now offers bending services. As soon as I get the '12 far enough along I'm going to design a few different models of the bracket (for various types of lights) and provide details for it and the trunk riser/mount assembly for anyone who's wanting to reproduce the setup. One of my old coworkers originally did the parts for me, and he or Phil could fabricate them if anyone wants a set.

Somewhat of a niche market item, but I can't be the only Concours 14 rider running radio gear on the bike.
 
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As it was snowing, I lit off the wood burner in the garage and went about looking over the new bike. I was able to transfer the Throttlemeister from the C-10 and it looks like if I want to, the peg lowerers from the C-10 will bolt up also with minimal work. I plan to ride the bike this season to see if I need to change the ergos at all.
 
I'd get pulled over with it and the cop would probably sting me harder. I used one in the 55 mph days on the interstate. Now it seems nobody notices or cares about 80 mph out there. I really don't like spending money on speeding tickets so I try to keep it reasonable. The only time I see really high speeds is out in the sticks on two lane roads where I have never seen a cop.
 
Would have made zero difference in my case, laser instant.

My concern with rigging up a radar detector is thinking I am invincible with it, just me, but that is how my mind works.
You can get lucky and pick up laser bouncing off other cars assuming there's enough traffic ahead. I've found the bigger threat to invincibility to be running up on an unmarked car that isn't running any radar. Either way, you're right and will eventually get popped if you push your luck.
 
Speeding on straight stuff to me is like, well...kissing your sister. I only tend to ignore posted suggestions of velocity as mentioned, on back roads and twisty bits where there are fewer cops and they usually only get a dab of the brakes and then say, oh heck...let em go.
 
Was time to change air filter. Actually late by 2.5k miles, but I’m not overly concerned. Not too much riding around salt water or construction zones.

OEM wasn’t actually all that bad. Was at the end of lifecycle for those who care about such things though.

K&N has gone in and will be washed & dried at next fluid change cycle.
 

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Speeding on straight stuff to me is like, well...kissing your sister. I only tend to ignore posted suggestions of velocity as mentioned, on back roads and twisty bits where there are fewer cops and they usually only get a dab of the brakes and then say, oh heck...let em go.
I ride almost entirely 2 lane rural roads. It's gets pretty boring slugging across the prairie. I'm gonna speed despite your analogy 😄
 
Ordered one of Phil's racks, a set of Hyper-Lites, and a Fenda Extenda. Looked at the Admore stuff but liked the hyper-lites like I have on my C-10, almost the same but half the price.

 
In the last week replaced my angels with new home mounted and balanced angels on my modified Harbor Freight motorcycle tire changer, yet to replace the windscreen with a new OEM windscreen this week, ready for coolant flush and replace with new coolant this weekend. getting ready for the 22 Nationals in Arkansas.
5/03/22 Update, also replaced batteries in TPMs, installed the new windscreen, replaced 7 of the 8 coolant hoses after a complete coolant flush, still waiting on the last hose to be delivered. Apparently the oil cooler to radiator hose is a endangered species unless maybe some dealers have in stock, most of the parts on line shops I searched were back-ordered from Kawasaki, finally scored the last in stock at Partszilla.com to be delivered this week I hope. Then re-fill with new coolant, run checking for leaks finally replacing all the plastic (I hope successfully) and a road test before loading up for Arkansas.
:)
 
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Just did my first update. Madstad windshield bracket. There is a bigger gap on the side than I care for, but it will work for now.

View attachment 31872View attachment 31873View attachment 31874

Next up is this crampbuster and tie down rings. Anyone have a picture of locations to add the tie down bracket? I have 4 I want to place.
View attachment 31875
I am curious to hear your impressions of the windshield bracket. When I installed one on my bike I noticed an instant and dramatic improvement in wind noise and buffeting.
 
I am curious to hear your impressions of the windshield bracket. When I installed one on my bike I noticed an instant and dramatic improvement in wind noise and buffeting.
Major improvement. I'm able to ride the highway now and enjoy it. On regular roads I barely feel any buffeting. I like the second notch from the top and put the factory windshield about eye level. I do feel like the factory windshield indents in the side do add some wind. So not critical now, but I may get the MRA X-Creen at some point.
 
(Yesterday) I installed the McCruise kit on my '11 C14. Went very smoothly, took my time and everything came online as expected when I turned the ignition on the first time. Took me a couple of tries to get the servo calibration/freeplay set correctly, but I am 95% sure it was user error. I was able to run through their 'diagnostic' process to make sure all of the safety mechanisms were functioning.

I was hoping to take it for a quick spin around the block to test the cruise control at 25MPH before I put all the fairings back on, but we got snow last night... so I may end up just putting it all back together, as it will be a few more days before it's nice enough to ride.

Their kit is essentially plug and play, with very detailed instructions. The wiring harness is perfectly designed, and my friend who helped with the install and I both think it all looks OEM.

Anyway, keeping my fingers crossed for some better weather so I can test it out!
 
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(Yesterday) I installed the McCruise kit on my '11 C14. Went very smoothly, took my time and everything came online as expected when I turned the ignition on the first time…..
I currently have a new in box Rostra cruise control and been eyeing if McCruise is more of what I really expected. I am not a fan of splicing wiring and wish I knew how to make pig tails and convert the Rostra to more plug / play.

Looking forward to hearing how your system works.

Lastly, When did you order the McCruise system and how long did it take to get?

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Wayne,

I ordered on 3/14 and received via DHL on 3/24. I'm in Oregon, I'd guess that elsewhere in the states may add a day or two, as I believe this went through customs in Los Angeles?

While I do have the knowledge and experience needed to make up my own wiring harnesses, I don't have the time! I had considered the Rostra, and while I think I probably could have knocked that out in a long weekend after poring over the factory wiring diagrams, I felt it was better to spend the extra $$ and know that it'll work the first time and I'd have great technical support if needed. Plus, I intend to take this bike a long ways from home, and if something goes wrong, I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road wishing I had a multimeter to test connections on a universal kit that has multiple solder joints in hard to access locations!

I'll report back on the functionality once it dries out & warms up a little bit. We had snow in April - the first time in the last 80 years that they've been taking records. 🤷‍♂️
 
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I'd get pulled over with it and the cop would probably sting me harder. I used one in the 55 mph days on the interstate. Now it seems nobody notices or cares about 80 mph out there. I really don't like spending money on speeding tickets so I try to keep it reasonable. The only time I see really high speeds is out in the sticks on two lane roads where I have never seen a cop.
Reasonable is the key word! I've done some crazy riding (speed) and sense(d) the "man" and slow(d) down immediately! 9 out of 10 times I was correct, he was sitting off to the side! I hope my old age will save me a really expensive paper!
 
After 250K miles any bike looking like that is LOVED!!!

Wayne, Carol & Blue

Not as much as you think Wayne, I just not to beat it around. Otherwise just a little maintenance here & there.

"Hey" ya'll quit talking nice to Cliff about his bike.
His head will swell up. (again)

Ride safe, Ted

You're just jealous because it makes that red bike look bad Ted! :LOL:
 
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(Yesterday) I installed the McCruise kit on my '11 C14. Went very smoothly, took my time and everything came online as expected when I turned the ignition on the first time. Took me a couple of tries to get the servo calibration/freeplay set correctly, but I am 95% sure it was user error. I was able to run through their 'diagnostic' process to make sure all of the safety mechanisms were functioning.

I was hoping to take it for a quick spin around the block to test the cruise control at 25MPH before I put all the fairings back on, but we got snow last night... so I may end up just putting it all back together, as it will be a few more days before it's nice enough to ride.

Their kit is essentially plug and play, with very detailed instructions. The wiring harness is perfectly designed, and my friend who helped with the install and I both think it all looks OEM.

Anyway, keeping my fingers crossed for some better weather so I can test it out!
Well I had a few opportunities over the last week to ride the bike and test out the McCruise cruise control system. I'm very impressed, I think it functions as well as an automotive cruise system. Obviously it won't maintain speed as easily across grade changes due to much lower mass (the C14 is no small bike, but it's only 25% of the mass of my lightest car!)... but I think I only saw the speed deviate -3 / +5 MPH and those were extreme circumstances. If I wasn't using cruise and had a LEO behind me, I probably would have downshifted into 5th to keep my speed more consistent in both of those scenarios - heading up a big hill or cresting one into a descent.

Having said that, on fairly flat ground in 4th gear at 35-40 MPH or 6th gear at 55-70 MPH, it felt great and kept within 1 MPH of my set speed. All safety functions (front brake, rear brake, clutch, and both over/under speed variation) turn the cruise control off as expected in a quick and smooth manner.

Controls are easy to access from the left handlebar (mine are mounted above the factory switch) and the LED indicator lights are easy to see even in full sunlight with my tinted visor down. It's worth noting that I'm a bit colorblind but can still easily differentiate between the various colors used to indicate the operating mode.

I'm very impressed and can't wait to put down some serious miles with this system!
 
Well I had a few opportunities over the last week to ride the bike and test out the McCruise cruise control system. I'm very impressed, I think it functions as well as an automotive cruise system....

I'm very impressed and can't wait to put down some serious miles with this system!
This is great to hear, I think I'm in for a bit more work than you to install the Rostra I have in a box. I am looking forward to the ease of use authentic cruise control though. Good job and thanks for providing your initial thoughts!
 
This is great to hear, I think I'm in for a bit more work than you to install the Rostra I have in a box. I am looking forward to the ease of use authentic cruise control though. Good job and thanks for providing your initial thoughts!
Well I'm sure that if you run into any issues with the install, the crew here will be happy to help! If you have any specific questions feel free to PM and we can dig into the factory wiring diagrams together. I still have most of the connections pretty fresh in my mind from my install.
 
Finally sorted out the mounting issues with my cockpit for touring. I think I have it just the way I want it now. All hardwired and switched.
IMG_2347.jpg
I also add T-Rex highway pegs, I think I like them where they are, will be testing over the weekend.
IMG_4380.jpgIMG_4381.jpg
 
Well I'm sure that if you run into any issues with the install, the crew here will be happy to help! If you have any specific questions feel free to PM and we can dig into the factory wiring diagrams together. I still have most of the connections pretty fresh in my mind from my install.
Thank You for the kind offer of support! And indeed there are many Rostra install threads and a couple mainstay instruction workbooks.

I am not a catalog engineer (totally willing to get my hands dirty - no problem), however, I am a quick adopter and promoter of engineered purpose built PnP solutions that offer clean, reliable, fool proof installations that are usually lighter, more compact and at the end of that day bring more value in installation time savings, peace of mind and no permanent intrusion to the parent systems. This is my only cause for pause… lol

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Flush/bleed brakes & clutch. MityVac seems to help expedite the flush. Rear brake fluid looked the worse of the lot.
ECU updated to Ivan's Performance latest version. Shakedown ride this past weekend... feels like it runs a bit smoother.
I used my vacuum bleeder to take the fluid out of the lines before removing them. It worked great to keep the spills to a minimum. Bought the bleeder check valve from Motion Pro and it made things so easy. Filled with Bel Ray DOT4 fluid and had a hard time seeing the fill level since the fluid is now crystal clear. Brake feel is excellent!
 
Busy day.
Installed Black Widow full system, Ivan flash ECU, and Madstad windshield brackets.
Modded my windscreen yoke so hopefully it doesn't break with the Madstads(I did something different than the slot, will detail later).
Replaced Cam position sensor o-ring with a thicker one. It had a small leak there, but it is going to have to have a valve cover gasket. :(
I was going to install new spark plugs too, but I will do that when I do valve lash and valve cover gaskets. It looks like it is going to be a real pain to get the valve cover off. I don't imagine the valves will be out of spec, as the bike only has 14,509 miles on it(crazy for a 2009).


Also changed the coolant, air filter(pain), engine oil and filter, and gear oil in the shaft drive.
 
Busy day.
Installed Black Widow full system, Ivan flash ECU, and Madstad windshield brackets.
Modded my windscreen yoke so hopefully it doesn't break with the Madstads(I did something different than the slot, will detail later).
Replaced Cam position sensor o-ring with a thicker one. It had a small leak there, but it is going to have to have a valve cover gasket. :(
I was going to install new spark plugs too, but I will do that when I do valve lash and valve cover gaskets. It looks like it is going to be a real pain to get the valve cover off. I don't imagine the valves will be out of spec, as the bike only has 14,509 miles on it(crazy for a 2009).


Also changed the coolant, air filter(pain), engine oil and filter, and gear oil in the shaft drive.
FSM valve inspection is at 17K miles US / and I believe 26K miles CA. Same engines, must be emissions ? You should be good for another few K miles. Get an FSM, read up on the several write ups here then don’t cut any corners and take your time.

Hit me up any questions.

Wayne
 
What did you use for device mounts and switches?
Both mounts are Kawasaki OEM, the old type and the new. I just recently added the AST set back plates. When you do this, it does not allow either OEM bracket to fit anymore. However, you can still use two of the mounting holes of the OEM brackets to fit 2 of the SHC screws this is plenty strong enough to hold the bracket tight (I did add Loctite). This gave me 5 SHC screws on each side. The newer OEM mount is on the top original inside screws with spacers. The Old OEM mount is flipped on the new top inside holes on the bars with spacers. I had to change all 4 bolts to longer ones for the spacers and the brackets. I added a RAM mount to the lower old OEM bracket, I canablized my old cruiser bar grab RAM mount to get this to work. You could probably achieve the same set up with a RAM ball coming off of the steering head and the right sized ball arm. The Garmin wire and the iPhone wire are hard wired into a switched accessory line in the front fairing.

I took it for a test run tonight and both brackets are very stable.

Both OEM brackets were on the last 2 bikes when I bought them, but I think they are around $50 each.
IMG_4379.jpg
 
Both mounts are Kawasaki OEM, the old type and the new. I just recently added the AST set back plates. When you do this, it does not allow either OEM bracket to fit anymore. However, you can still use two of the mounting holes of the OEM brackets to fit 2 of the SHC screws this is plenty strong enough to hold the bracket tight (I did add Loctite). This gave me 5 SHC screws on each side. The newer OEM mount is on the top original inside screws with spacers. The Old OEM mount is flipped on the new top inside holes on the bars with spacers. I had to change all 4 bolts to longer ones for the spacers and the brackets. I added a RAM mount to the lower old OEM bracket, I canablized my old cruiser bar grab RAM mount to get this to work. You could probably achieve the same set up with a RAM ball coming off of the steering head and the right sized ball arm. The Garmin wire and the iPhone wire are hard wired into a switched accessory line in the front fairing.

I took it for a test run tonight and both brackets are very stable.

Both OEM brackets were on the last 2 bikes when I bought them, but I think they are around $50 each.
View attachment 32313
Looks good for your application. (y)

I have the control head for an HF amateur radio transceiver (IC-703+) and a Motochello MC-200 control/display unit mounted between the bars of my '12. Gem Police Sales provided me with a neat mount which attaches to handlebar riser blocks (I happen to have them on both my C14s) and it came pre-drilled for a RAM ball mount. I used that position for the ham radio control head and drilled another set on the mount's top plate; this for the MC-200 RAM hardware.

When I get all the wiring, switches, radio gear and bodywork back on the bike I'll post a number of pics. There are groups on Groups.io which specifically cater to the two transceivers I'm using for this project and I'm going to write the process up then place the materials in their Files area. I had to design some electrical and mechanical goodies to make it possible - prints for the hardware and schematics will be posted too.

My power setup for all this uses a Fuze Block that's activated via the bike's ACC line. The radios are low-power (10-15w output) so they won't tax the alternator while being operated underway. A concurrent effort is the re-design of the failed "C14P" concept, wherein I build some safeties into the system used for charging the bike's 2nd battery. I want to be able to run the radios from their own 12v source (an Odyssey PC-680) so I can ride the bike to a campsite and string up wire antennas for the Icom then make contacts when the bike's electrical system is shut down.
 
Installed some helibars. Goes well with the Terry's seat I bought a while back. I can finally sit upright and have my hands where I want them.
 
I'll have to clean the mess up a bit before taking pics but there are now 10 signal/data/control cables running from the passenger seat area to the steering head of my '12. additionally, there are 4 new 12VDC lines (Powerlet for charging the battery, seat heater, radio/secondary battery charging and auxiliary running lights) routed from the Fuze Block back to the rear of the bike.

A LOT of custom radio mount, switch and lighting work done this weekend too. Parts are all over the garage at the moment and I hope I can find them again when needed. 🤪
 
Installed risers, not hard but instructions slightly different from how you needed to do it, Installed peg lowers, not hard, but again, slightly different than what needed done. I'm not a cell phone person and I do not know the secret as to how one is supposed to look at much less understand photos taken by phone as to the position of things and the angle or orientation of what I'm supposed to be looking at, that being said, it took over an hour longer to figure out just what in hell I was supposed to be looking at and how in hell my arm is supposed to fit down into that abyss smaller than a mouse hole. Well made parts, a true bolt on, glad I did it, glad also for the printed metric scale to measure supplied bolts.
 
Recently replaced batteries in TPMs with new Angel GTs, installed the new OEM windscreen, replaced 7 of the 8 coolant hoses after a complete coolant flush, still waiting on the last hose to be delivered. Apparently the oil cooler to radiator hose is a endangered species unless maybe some dealers have in stock, most of the parts on line shops I searched were back-ordered from Kawasaki, finally scored the last in stock at Partszilla.com to be delivered this week I hope. Then re-fill with new coolant, run checking for leaks finally replacing all the plastic (I hope successfully) and a road test before loading up for Arkansas.
:)
 
Recently replaced batteries in TPMs with new Angel GTs, installed the new OEM windscreen, replaced 7 of the 8 coolant hoses after a complete coolant flush, still waiting on the last hose to be delivered. Apparently the oil cooler to radiator hose is a endangered species unless maybe some dealers have in stock, most of the parts on line shops I searched were back-ordered from Kawasaki, finally scored the last in stock at Partszilla.com to be delivered this week I hope. Then re-fill with new coolant, run checking for leaks finally replacing all the plastic (I hope successfully) and a road test before loading up for Arkansas.
:)
I just replaced the TPMS batteries on the 2009 I bought and put new Michelin Pilot4 GTs on for good measure. The warnings for low batteries are gone and I did get a low pressure warning for the front when it was below 30 pounds as I first pulled it out of the garage. I now have both tires right at 42PSI yet the pressures on the screen just have dashes. Did I miss a step to get the sensors to actually read the pressures? How did yours turn out?
 
I just replaced the TPMS batteries on the 2009 I bought and put new Michelin Pilot4 GTs on for good measure. The warnings for low batteries are gone and I did get a low pressure warning for the front when it was below 30 pounds as I first pulled it out of the garage. I now have both tires right at 42PSI yet the pressures on the screen just have dashes. Did I miss a step to get the sensors to actually read the pressures? How did yours turn out?
It'll take a couple minutes of both wheels spinning to activate and recieve the readings.
 
Busy day.
Installed Black Widow full system, Ivan flash ECU, and Madstad windshield brackets.
Modded my windscreen yoke so hopefully it doesn't break with the Madstads(I did something different than the slot, will detail later).
Replaced Cam position sensor o-ring with a thicker one. It had a small leak there, but it is going to have to have a valve cover gasket. :(
I was going to install new spark plugs too, but I will do that when I do valve lash and valve cover gaskets. It looks like it is going to be a real pain to get the valve cover off. I don't imagine the valves will be out of spec, as the bike only has 14,509 miles on it(crazy for a 2009).


Also changed the coolant, air filter(pain), engine oil and filter, and gear oil in the shaft drive.
There is a trick I learned my first month on this forum that makes the AF a tad bit easier...have you done that?
 
I just replaced the TPMS batteries on the 2009 I bought and put new Michelin Pilot4 GTs on for good measure. The warnings for low batteries are gone and I did get a low pressure warning for the front when it was below 30 pounds as I first pulled it out of the garage. I now have both tires right at 42PSI yet the pressures on the screen just have dashes. Did I miss a step to get the sensors to actually read the pressures? How did yours turn out?
They won't read anything until you ride it. Run for at least a half mile before you decide if they are INOP or not.
 
They won't read anything until you ride it. Run for at least a half mile before you decide if they are INOP or not.
I have put on 100+ miles and still have no numbers showing. Actually, as long as the warning message is gone, I am fine. I always check air pressures as my “pre-flight” anyway.
 
If they were working as designed the PSI would display in less than a mile of riding. Are you sure you installed the batteries correctly? +/-..
 
If they were working as designed the PSI would display in less than a mile of riding. Are you sure you installed the batteries correctly? +/-..
I soldered them in and checked for voltage with a multimeter. The front for sure worked as it detected the low pressure right away. Since, I just get the dashes. Regardless, it is not worth popping off the tires to try to rectify. I will just wait until the next tire change.
 
I soldered them in and checked for voltage with a multimeter. The front for sure worked as it detected the low pressure right away. Since, I just get the dashes. Regardless, it is not worth popping off the tires to try to rectify. I will just wait until the next tire change.
Theres a thread about replacing the batts with the tires still mounted. It works using a couple C clamps to break the bead on one side and squeeze the tire enough to be able to remove the tpms and replace the batts. I used it for both my front and rear tires a couple years ago. Rear was easier the front... check it out
 
I am all ears!
So I have pretty big hands, but found I could do the AF without removing more than the glove box and left fairing liner, less than the manual states. The bracket that holds stuff that needs to be removed has 2 bolts, the lower one is a PITA to get out without dropping. But when you do, just take a pair of dikes and cut the metal so it is a slot for the lower bolt. In the future, you only need to loosen it a couple of turns and slide the bracket up and off. Easy Peasy.
 
Got my 2013 back from jwh20 with the shim chart. Cold rainy 50 degree ride home but the bike feels great. Valves done. KandN filter cleaned and oiled and little things taken care of.... just awesome
 

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Got my 2013 back from jwh20 with the shim chart. Cold rainy 50 degree ride home but the bike feels great. Valves done. KandN filter cleaned and oiled and little things taken care of.... just awesome
Nice to have her running well for the summer. We have the first sunny day forecast in the past 2 weeks tomorrow. Michigan has been cold, gray, and rainy this spring. Looking forward to riding in the sunshine.
 
Nice to have her running well for the summer. We have the first sunny day forecast in the past 2 weeks tomorrow. Michigan has been cold, gray, and rainy this spring. Looking forward to riding in the sunshine.
Ha.

That would have been nice. 55 miles in 48 degree rain to get the old girl home. Happy to have some fairly fresh PR4s on it in the rain yesterday. Been riding the 2018 while this one was getting valves done. Big differences I never thought about. First gear on the 18 is much easier to launch than I realized. Killed the 13 twice on the way home.

I dunno if it is the valves being done or the Shoodabeen flash but the difference between the 13 and the 18 is remarkable. I suspect it is the flash. Now that I have one back to ride I am going to call Steve and get the 18 done.

Rode the stock seat home as the Laam was on the other b ike ....ooof.....what a difference. May have to put the Baldwin on the 13 for the daily commute.

Got to go see the Grandkids in Columbus on the first really good day for riding tomorrow but if I can get back to IN and watch the Derby after his games I am gonna get a quick century and grab an ice cream tomorrow. Mothers Day....ride o ver to Mom's on a Sunny Sunday is a good thought....but at some point I am gonna have to mow the out of control prarie outside.
 
freebird6,
there's a difference in gearing on first gear between the 2013 and 2018. First gear got lowered some on the 2015 and up models.
 
Ha.

That would have been nice. 55 miles in 48 degree rain to get the old girl home. Happy to have some fairly fresh PR4s on it in the rain yesterday. Been riding the 2018 while this one was getting valves done. Big differences I never thought about. First gear on the 18 is much easier to launch than I realized. Killed the 13 twice on the way home.

I dunno if it is the valves being done or the Shoodabeen flash but the difference between the 13 and the 18 is remarkable. I suspect it is the flash. Now that I have one back to ride I am going to call Steve and get the 18 done.

Rode the stock seat home as the Laam was on the other b ike ....ooof.....what a difference. May have to put the Baldwin on the 13 for the daily commute.

Got to go see the Grandkids in Columbus on the first really good day for riding tomorrow but if I can get back to IN and watch the Derby after his games I am gonna get a quick century and grab an ice cream tomorrow. Mothers Day....ride o ver to Mom's on a Sunny Sunday is a good thought....but at some point I am gonna have to mow the out of control prarie outside.
Just tell anyone who asks, that you’re letting the lawn overseed itself as a contribution to sustainable landscaping.
 
Installed Ohlins rear shock, then went for a short 30-40 mile test run to play with some settings.
It was the KA109 for 2010 and up(not the 2008-2009 recommended KA709) but it bolted right up on my 2009.
I had to fab an L shaped bracket to mount the remote pre-load adjuster, but otherwise uneventful.
Does anyone know the definitive difference between the KA109 and the KA709?

Once back, I rebuilt the front brake master cylinder, and installed Galfer stainless lines up front.
It started to rain right as I finished up, I took it out for a short 20 miles or so anyway.
The front brakes are driving me crazy.
When I get on the front brakes hard, I can hear the pads against the rotors for several seconds after I release the brake lever.
Then they go silent until I hit the front brake again.
There is no pulsing, or apparent dragging(unless it is doing it for those few seconds after I release the lever).
I had previously pulled the front calipers, cleaned the pistons, checked/lubed rotor buttons and installed new EBC HH pads.
I did not install new seals for the pistons, maybe they are swollen? I noticed the noise with the stock pads too, so I don't believe it is related to the pads.


Is this brake noise normal for the Concours 14? Suggestions besides earplugs?
 
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After finally getting my Ohio vanity license plate I transferred my COG "Strawboss" plate bracket, can't remember the name of the company that did it, 2 sisters? 3 women? something like that.

I assembled and ran the wires and connected up my "Hyper-Lites", a simple process after reading the simple instructions a few times, I'm not an electrical guy at all. I have them on my C-10 and as expected they really make a difference in addition to the brake light.

I drilled a hole into the plate holder and then also through the rear fender, you can't see it, then ran the wires up and through the underside of the rear fender opening used for the plate light wires, needed a pair of McGill forceps from work to reach under and grab the wires beneath what looks like a computer box under the seat.
 
I just replaced the TPMS batteries on the 2009 I bought and put new Michelin Pilot4 GTs on for good measure. The warnings for low batteries are gone and I did get a low pressure warning for the front when it was below 30 pounds as I first pulled it out of the garage. I now have both tires right at 42PSI yet the pressures on the screen just have dashes. Did I miss a step to get the sensors to actually read the pressures? How did yours turn out?
Mine seemed to work as intended, rode about a half mile till the front update, had to cycle the display a couple times to get the actual readings, seems like once the dashes appear you need to cycle the display to get it to update.
 
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