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White smoke on startup, gets worse as it warms up...Update: May Be DEAD!!!

dsamudio

Guest
Guest
After changing my Brake pads, brake and clutch cables for braided cables, I noticed white smoke from the right exhaust when I was testing the clutch on the stand.

The smoke was worse when I gave it gas. The bike was not warmed up.

Once the bike warmed a bit the smoke was almost gone. Now, it is not going away.

This was the first time I did not let the bike completely warm up.

I've noticed some smoke before, but it has gone away after warmed up.

I also noticed wet oily fluid from the right exhaust as well.

The bike runs very smooth.

My first thought is to check the valves height for hydro lock.

Other thoughts?

DS
 
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Thanks for the quick response, but I think I have a cracked block or a leak from the radiator.

Here is a video after the bike was warm.


All comments and suggestions welcome.

DS
 
I would think a head gasket before a cracked block.

Open up the radiator cap and start it up cold, do you see bubbles coming out?
 
Could be condensation in the exhaust system, if you're running it just up to warm up then shutting it off the exhaust system is not really getting hot enough for long enough to dry out the inside of the system.
 
Other thoughts ? It's got nothing to do with hydro lock, or the valves, unless you need someting
to do. I have noticed that the E-10 crap the government is forcing down our gas tanks makes a bit
more white condensate. Don't know if others have noticed this or not. I believe I may have something
to do with it being more hydroscopic. Meaning there is more water vapor to condense in our exhaust
system. In winter or when it's cold it's best to run your bike till everything is warm, hot.
 
I have noticed that when I move my bike from cold garage to outside if it warms up and sun comes out there is more condensation coming from pipes. First its the white water vapor then condensate will start dripping from both pipes especially if I have it on the center stand. After a few minutes no more white vapor or condensate. I always try to make sure I run it long enough to warm up oil and coolant and get rid of moisture in pipes.
 
Bubble Test Results

No Bubbles...lots of white smoke.

Outside temp - 57

Part 1 - Just after cold start

Part 2 - Middle of test

Part 3 - Engine is warming up


Suggestions?

DS
 
I think this time of year pretty common to have combustion condensation with all vehicles. I would not get to excited unless you are constantly adding water/anti freeze to the coolant tank bottle because it's always low.

Or the drain holes in the pipes are clogged. Clogged drain holes will have the muffler retain water unless the pipes mufflers are sizzling hot at some point.

51 degrees outside. How about inside the garage? After a night of cold my garage is cold. Then in the evening the garage is warmer inside than the now no sun outside. My garage is insolated including the doors. I can throw some heat in the garage if I need to work out there.

As for the oily mess on the right pipe, seems someone had a similar problem before. Unfortunately I don't remember the cause or fix. I'm relatively sure someone will chime in or you'll find the cause yourself.

IMHO I would not loose any sleep over this. That is until I could say I was adding coolant regularly or the oil in the sight glass was always grey.
 
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What does the white smoke smell like?

When you say you run it till it warms up, how long is that? I run mine for ~ 30 to 40 minutes, once a month during winter. The condensation comes out ~ 3 to 4 minutes after I start it up (smells like water vapor mixed with exhaust, no excess gas or oil smell), usually done smoking after ~ 15 minutes.
 
I think it's Dead!!!

I had a strong smell of gas in the garage, so I pulled the tank and looked for loose fuel hoses. I did not find any.

My next thought was to start the engine and let the fuel in the bowls burn out as well as using an IV to get the engine warm in hopes the smoke will dissipate.

Two starter pulses and one very loud clang the engine stopped and I quickly released the starter button.

I felt the hit from the floor into my feet.

It was definitely from the Engine block.

I think I'll need to pull the plugs and check the valves for equal heights and moister this weekend, but I am not hopeful.

All suggestions welcome.

DS
 
It's not the valves you should be concerned with. It sounds like a classic case of hydrolock. :( Check piston heights. I hope I'm wrong. Sorry D.

For anyone reading this that isn't familiar, if you have a strong odor of gas, pull the tank. Pull the plugs. Pull one of the connectors to each of the coils. Cover the plug holes with rags and hit the starter button. If gas shoots out of the holes, you have just avoided the dreaded disaster of bending piston rods due to hydrolock. I've had to do this a few times due to leaving the petcock on prime. I didn't want to, but it's better than bending a rod or rods.

I'm really sorry to hear this D. Keeping my fingers crossed for you!
 
Yes, pull the plugs, cover the top of the motor with a rag and hit the starter. All may not be lost. Let us know what you find....
 
I don't know if it ever happens to these motors (hopefully some one who does can say) but since it may have been coolant making the exhaust vapor, might it be coolant that shoots out of the plug hole and not gasoline?

I guess it's the same either way, have to pull the plugs and see what happens...
 
It's not the valves you should be concerned with. It sounds like a classic case of hydrolock. :( Check piston heights. I hope I'm wrong. Sorry D.

For anyone reading this that isn't familiar, if you have a strong odor of gas, pull the tank. Pull the plugs. Pull one of the connectors to each of the coils. Cover the plug holes with rags and hit the starter button. If gas shoots out of the holes, you have just avoided the dreaded disaster of bending piston rods due to hydrolock. I've had to do this a few times due to leaving the petcock on prime. I didn't want to, but it's better than bending a rod or rods.

I'm really sorry to hear this D. Keeping my fingers crossed for you!
When it happend, this video popped into my head.

I plan on this being one of those "First and Last Time" kind of mistakes.

DS
 
Pulled the Plugs and measured with my brand new bent rod tester.

The plugs from top to bottom are 1-4.

The piston heights seem to match, so hit the starter to turn the engine.

I got small blast of gas from the pistons 1-3 and then nothing, but 4 was the problem. It took sever cranks to get the gas out of 4.

I remeasured the piston heights and again they look good.

Suggestion on where to go from here?

Thanks,
DS

DSPlugs.jpg
 
Buy a new petcock. Go through the carbs yourself or send them to Steve in Florida. Either you or Steve install overflow tubes in the carb bowls to prevent hydrolock in the future. Looks like you dodged a bomb!! I'm happy for ya!! You can breathe now! :)
 
Change the oil before you run it again - its likely got gas mixed in with it.

I also recommend sending carbs to the SISF carb spa for the full mani pedi - overflow tube - 2 minute mod treatment.

If you go through the carbs yourself, you should replace the rubber tipped fuel needles as well. Even though petcock is bad, one or more of those had to leak as well to allow the fuel to overflow into your cylinders.
 
Pulled the Plugs and measured with my brand new bent rod tester.

The plugs from top to bottom are 1-4.

The piston heights seem to match, so hit the starter to turn the engine.

I got small blast of gas from the pistons 1-3 and then nothing, but 4 was the problem. It took sever cranks to get the gas out of 4.

I remeasured the piston heights and again they look good.

Suggestion on where to go from here?

Thanks,
DS

View attachment 28507

If you want to try doing the carbs yourself I highly recomend following MOB'S article in the fall 06 Concourier .
"Carbs , it ain't a diet thing" Look it up in the archives here . I used these carb kits last time . Good quality and very complete .

 
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Thank you all for the comments and support!!!

I have already reached out to SISF and I'm awaiting a response.

The petcock was changed in 10/19 with a brand new part from Revzilla. The tank is sitting on the floor of my garage, in the full down position, with a half+ tank of gas and is not leaking.

I think the issue is the carbs.

Thoughts and comments are welcome.

DS
 
I think you're in good shape. Watch SISF's videos, remove the carbs and send the carbs to Steve. Have Steve install overflow tubes. It's pricey but once done you'll never have to worry about hydrolock again. For me removing and installing the carbs was fairly easy - hooking up the throttle linkage on the carb rack was the worst part - another reason to have Steve clean the carbs - you don't want to keep installing and removing the rack - which usually happens when carbs are cleaned by shade tree mechanics.
Run ethanol free gas or treat each tank with TCW3 two stroke oil to avoid future ethanol issues. Change the motor oil and ride. It's good this happened at this time of year - you've got plenty of time to make repairs and enjoy a full riding season.
 
Thank you all for the comments and support!!!

I have already reached out to SISF and I'm awaiting a response.

The petcock was changed in 10/19 with a brand new part from Revzilla. The tank is sitting on the floor of my garage, in the full down position, with a half+ tank of gas and is not leaking.

I think the issue is the carbs.

Thoughts and comments are welcome.

DS
Did you leave the petcock on prime when this happened ? If not then your petcock must have failed . 2 things make this happen . Carb floats leaking and petcock failure (or leaving it on prime ) both must occur for it to happen .
 
Just a bit more. I would shake the tank all around then drain the gas through a coffee filter.
See what the filter catches, then don't re-use the filter.
I willing to bet all my "points" that some DIRT has caused your problem
 
Did you leave the petcock on prime when this happened ? If not then your petcock must have failed . 2 things make this happen . Carb floats leaking and petcock failure (or leaving it on prime ) both must occur for it to happen .
Thanks for the info.

I just double checked and the petcock was\is in the ON position not on the PRI or RES.

Wouldn't the petcock leak if it was defective and disconnected?

Is there any way to test the petcock?

DS
 
I might have missed it, but the answer to the white smoke is in the picture of the spark plugs - all sooty and black. that can happen from being really rich, bad fuel, or water in the fuel. Any of those will give white smoke.

And yes, ordinarily we think of black smoke whn it's rich. But when the fuel gets in the exhaust and starts to burn out, it will be white. Been caught by that one with a used auto engine years ago.
 
Thanks Steve for your help and comments.

UPDATE

Pulled the carbs and sent them to Steve for a rebuild.

Ckecked the fuel from the bowls and no water.
I got my first set of parts from Murph’s yesterday.

One who try’s to never let a disaster go to waist, I now have a list of task to do and take advantage of the missing carbs.

Air box
Valve adjustment
Spark plugs including wires and boots
log Seals and thermostat
Oil change
Radiator flush and switch to SISF mix

As always, thoughts and comments are welcome.

DS
 
I've never had to replace ignition wires (to spark plugs) on any of the 3 C-10s I've owned. You can repair the existing wires - both ends come apart. When you put everything back together pay close attention to the arrows on the spark plug boots - the arrow should point forward, the boot pushed firmly down to prevent water from collecting in the spark plug bore. Log seals could be left alone if they do not leak now. I've never had to replace a thermostat either. Sometimes replacing a part that is working with a new one invites a problem where there was never one previously... (Like awakening an unfamiliar sleeping dog)
Use the money you save to buy gas for rides (Premium not needed) the bike runs fine on regular.
 
Glad you sent the carbs to SiSF! i had my carbs done by Steve and it saved my bacon already. had both the petcock leak and the carb needles not seat. or at least one of them. leaked (dripped) gas into the parking lot all day while i was at work. came out to go home. drat. work ahead of me. hit the starter and rode home. got home. carb still leaking. so ended up doing a manual petcock and new carb float needles and cleaned everything out as best i could. Follow Steve's advice.

By the way, thanks Steve for the overflow tubes!! you saved another C10 from hydrolock!!
-tdbru
 
A friend of mine who was given a C10, sent his carbs off to Steve. Got them back, stuck back on and discovered he didn't even need to do a sync job. One of the better idling C10's I've been around to boot. He thought the spa was worth every bit of the money.
 
Thanks all!!

I am looking forward to the repaired carbs.

Steve reported there were several issues with the carbs; some from age and some from bad repair work.

It appears the PO had know issues with leaving parts off the the bike and using a 3 ft. pipe to torque the reamining bolts down.

o_Oo_Oo_O

Seriously, I had to use a 3 ft pipe on the oil filter bolt for the first oil change because the PO did not replace the rubber seals and left out the oil filter spring.

I'm sure everyone has WTH maintenace stories they can tell.

This also is a testiment to how tough these Connie's are.

DS
 
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Got my Carbs back from Steve, but do to weather, weather related house repairs, and shipping delays on parts, I've not had a chance to finsh the maintenance and parts replacement.

BTW, Steve knows his stuff, is easy to work with and the turn around time was quick

This weekend is looking pretty good time wise, and if I get my breather hose delevered, I hope to be riding by end of day on Sunday....or sometime next week.

I'll update the thread when I have more news.

Thank you for checking,
DS
 
04/10/21 Latest update

Work and life have slowed me down a bit, but I have:

Checked the valve adjustment...No adjustment needed (y)
Changed the gasket and seals
drained coolent in preperation move SISF coolent cocktail
New thermostate
New spartk plugs, wires and resistors
Airbox fix and paint
Airbox door fix
New Carb airbox boots installed

In the morning my task list is:

Insall the Airbox and a silicon hose to replace the bottom air hose I lost
Install the Carbs
Filter some gas for an IV
Reinstall the lower radiator resvivour
Add Water\viniger for first flush
cross my finger and give it a go
Tune the Carbs

I got the kit to change the coolent Log seals, but I'm ready to ride and on second thought, the job was a bit more than I wanted to get into.

I'm glad I got the kit, because I needed it to replace the bottom Thermostate seal.

I also installed the valve head seal twice. After I finished the first install, I new I had used to much RTV, so I orderd another kit and took it all apart again. I was right, to much RTV, but clean up was easy, because I had never started the engine.

DS
 
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04/11/21 Update:

It is up and running... but the radiator fan is not coming on.

Suggestions?

I did not mess with the radiator, but I did change the thermostat.

I currently have 50/50 distilled water and distilled vinegar in the cooling system.

I have not had a chance to tune the carbs yet.

DS
 
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Pull the connector off of the temp sending unit that is screwed into the radiator on the left side. Jump across the two terminals in that connector and see if the fan comes on.
 
Thank all.

I waited until it was an 1/8 from over heating.

I just popped the radiator cap and air escaped and the fluid is low

Could air in the tank cause this?

This model does not have the bleed valve on the water pump.

DS
 
Thank all.

I waited until it was an 1/8 from over heating.

I just popped the radiator cap and air escaped and the fluid is low

Could air in the tank cause this?

This model does not have the bleed valve on the water pump.

DS
Hmm... I've never heard of any with no bleed screw but low coolant would cause the no fan issue since the sensor was not submerged . There should be another bleed screw on the thermostat housing .
 
The bleed on the water pump is one of its mounting bolts. The water pump can cavitate if you don't bleed it and cause damage to the water pump. I don't remember which screw it is but I will do a search. Secondly there is an actual bleed screw on the thermostat housing but many don't bother to bleed that one.
Here is a post on water pump, according to the poster the either screw at 11 right 2:30 o'clock position can be loosened to bleed the water pump.
 
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This has been helpful.

The bleed on the water pump is one of its mounting bolts. The water pump can cavitate if you don't bleed it and cause damage to the water pump. I don't remember which screw it is but I will do a search. Secondly there is an actual bleed screw on the thermostat housing but many don't bother to bleed that one.
Here is a post on water pump, according to the poster the either screw at 11 right 2:30 o'clock position can be loosened to bleed the water pump.


This was very helpful,

Thank you.

Fan is still not coming on, but I am just using water to clean out of the system and only letting it run for 10 minutes. I let the temp get to half way.

DS
 
4/22/21

So, Craz-z1000 and Bobct get the prize.

I was pouring the water to fast into the cooling system and causing air to get trapped.

The trick is to pour the water slowly, stop at 1 qt, burp the water pump, slowly finish filling and burp the thermostat.

I've run the bike a little longer the past two flushes and the fan has come on and when I open the radiator cap the radiator system is full.

I've flushed about 5 gal. through the system and have almost all the green out. One or maybe two more flushes should do it and then the SISF cocktail with blue Engine Ice and an oil change.

It looks like I have the small leak at the water pump and a small clutch fluid leak at a bolt on the clutch release assembly.

The radiator reservoir has a hole at the top and a replacement has been ordered.

I've got the water pump replacement part Steve recommended on it's way and I'm going to check the tork on the clutch release assemble bolts. I hope the latter stops the clutch fluid leak.

DS
 
The bolts on the clutch slave cylinder are just mounting bolts, torquing shouldn't help on a leak. The slave cylinder is similar to a disc brake caliper and if the hose or bleed screw isn't leaking then I suspect it is the seal on the slave piston. Make sure your not leaking from the hose, banjo bolt or bleeder first. Not a bad job to do the seal replacement, pull the bolts out that hold the slave on the motor, there is a plastic spacer behind the slave, dont lose it. Check the backside for evidence of leakage. Put the slave in a clean milk jug or coffee can,etc. and sloooowly pull on the clutch lever to push the slave cylinder piston out of the slave assy. Wear safety glasses and protect painted surfaces from any brake fluid splashes. If I remember correctly the seal is in a recess in the slave cylinder.

If you are leaking oil out of the weep hole on the water pump the fix that Steve talks about with the new oil seal and red loctite would do the trick.
If you are weeping coolant out of the weep hole on the waterpump the oil seal replacement wont fix that, and at some point you would need a new waterpump.
 
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The bolts on the clutch slave cylinder were loose. I tightened them up and so far so good.

I also cleaned under the water pump and on my last round of radiator flushing, I did not find any leaks.

So, how many gal. will it take to clean all the green antifreeze out of my radiator. I'm about to start my 7th gal. and my current results are below.

Is it safe to move to Blue anti freeze now?

My goal is to got to Engine Ice, Wetter and water (SISF cocktail).

Any suggestions for the Radiator flush will be appreciated.

I tuned the carbs this evening and I plan on switching out some of the old vacuum hoses to the Carbs.

When the cooling system is in order, I'll change the oil, tune the air box and will be on my way.

Slowly but surely.

DS
 

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Bubble Test Results

No Bubbles...lots of white smoke.

Outside temp - 57

Part 1 - Just after cold start

Part 2 - Middle of test

Part 3 - Engine is warming up


Suggestions?

DS
Yeah, That picture the sight glass is not oil.
 
Surprised to see 6 gallons later still that much residue - lots of places the coolant will set in I suppose. Not saying anything is bad - I would not be the wiser - just surprised how much effort it takes to clean the old slime out.

Wayne
 
About your smoke videos - remind us does this go away after the machine has reached full temp?

My C-10 was a little on the rich side and did the same thing on startup, never a problem for all the years I had it.

Any consistent white milky residue under the oil filler cap or in the sight glass? Are you needing to add coolant? If answers to both those questions is no - I wouldn’t be too worried. Also last - what air filter are you running? An over-oiled K&N mucked up my air/fuel once given some extra smoke.
 
The white smoke is from fuel over flowing into the carbs.
Excess fuel is flowing into 3 or 4 piston.

I had this issue the past year and thought it was just moisture. When the engine is warm or running at higher rpms the fuel is used by the engine.

This can be check by the spark plugs. If you look at my previous posts the pistons are fouled and SISF correctly spotted the problem.

After the carb rebuild, I was able to test and recreate the issues at will by leaving open the #2 vacuum while on an gravity fed fuel source.
Because I had the overflow tubes from Steve's Carb rebuild, most of the fuel would run into my overflow jar, but if I did not slow or close the fuel IV quickly, I would have white smoke. Not much, and it would dissipate once the engine had time to burn the excess fuel.

Many contributors have stated that there are usually two of three factors in play that will cause the hydro lock.

Lack of overflow tubes on the carbs
Carbs not working correctly i.e. bad floats
Petcock malfunction

I think a 4th should be added: Vacuum tubes\vacuum leak.

I hope some of the more experienced contributors can verify or comment on this.

Without the Overflow tubes, overflow fuel has no place to go but to the pistons

If the carbs are letting to much fuel in the piston and the Petcock is not regulating the fuel correctly you can have hydro lock.

I think that is why it is recommended to replace the Petcock after a hydro lock. If the petcock is stuck in the
PRI position or not managing the vacuum correctly this could contribute to hydro lock.

But, what if the petcock is working correctly, but the vacuum hoses are cracked or not fitting snuggly enough to hold the vacuum?

The Fuel Vacuum system has no vacuum.

Comments are welcome.

DS
 
Update: 4/25/21
Going to stay with Green.

Below are the latest results from my most recent radiator flush. I'm ready to ride, so I'm sticking with Green and Wetter.

If I need to take the exhaust off in the future, I do a full drain and make the switch.

The good news is a lot of gunk and metal flakes have been removed from the cooling system and I can knock out a radiator drain, fill and engine warm in less than 30 min.

Also replaced all my vacuum and fuel hoses. To my point above, compare my old one to the new. The old are brittle and misshapen.

I tuned the carbs yesterday.

Left to do:

Radiator cocktail
Oil change
Air Box Tune
Get fresh gas
Test the engine
Put on the plastic

And then a real test ride.

DS
 

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if the carbs are letting to much fuel in the piston and the Petcock is not regulating the fuel correctly you can have hydro lock.

I think that is why it is recommended to replace the Petcock after a hydro lock. If the petcock is stuck in the
PRI position or not managing the vacuum correctly this could contribute to hydro lock.

But, what if the petcock is working correctly, but the vacuum hoses are cracked or not fitting snuggly enough to hold the vacuum?

The Fuel Vacuum system has no vacuum.

Comments are welcome.

DS
Petcock doesn't regulate the fuel only on or off. No vacuum = no fuel in the on or reserve position. Low vacuum may result in lean condition, but only when the engine is using more fuel than the petcock can supply and you have run it long enough in that condition to drain the supply line and start to empty the float bowls. All the fuel regulation is done in the carburetor. If your carbs are good you will never know that you have a bad petcock unless you disconnect the line, like to remove the tank.

Hydro lock needs both a petcock and float failure. That is why you replace the petcock.

When was the last time you shut off the gas supply on your lawn mower? Did the carb leak?

If our C-10 had been designed with the intake tract with a slight upward tilt the gas would just leak into the airbox and not into the cylinders. No hydro lock just a mess on the floor.
 
Well now I understand why Steve stressed that I need to purchase a new petcock. Steve gave me an explanation, but it did not register. I'll order one tonight and put off the new gas and test ride tomorrow.

My current petcock is only a year old and did not leak when the petcock was in the "ON" position when the tank was removed.

What am I missing for this to still be a faulty petcock?

JPD,

Thank you for the explanation.

DS
 
Why did Steve say to replace the petcock? Is the filter “sock” not fully on petcock.
I also use an inline 90 degree gas filter, Napa 3006, you cut the gas line right before it bends down to the carb inlet. Some have said it causes fuel starvation but others including me swear by it.
 
The petcock might not be faulty. If the screen allowed debris to get past then the petcock could have been held open when vacuum was removed. That same debris could have been what held a float valve open, No real defective parts just some dirt or debris. In working with it You may have flushed that debris out and now everything is working normally. A turn to prime with the gas line off will flow much more volume than the bike will ever use while running. The replacement parts is just another safety measure and a lot cheaper than a new engine. Sound like a lot of debris sense you had fuel in multiple cylinders.

I have had leaking floats and my first attempt to fix is to drain the carb bowl and leave it open then go to prime with the petcock and catch the gas in a clear container so I can look for dirt. Then I do the same to all of the carbs. No help and the carbs come off for a more extensive check. or a trip South to the spa.

Best defense is to have the overflow tubes installed. They give you the heads up that a float valve is hanging open with out the danger of hydro lock. Leaking while running is a float valve, leaking after shutdown for a while is both a leaking petcock and float valve. Remember you have to drain the supply line so it might drip a long time after shutdown.
 
Thanks for the info.

The floats were one of the problems according to Steve: 2 were cracked and full of fuel. I now have the overflow tubes installed by Steve.

So, the vacuum to the petcock opens a diaphragm and when the vacuum is off, a spring closes the diaphragm. Correct?

Am I correct in thinking it is necessary to cap vacuum 2 (this goes to the gas tank) while on a fuel IV or you could have gas going out the overflow tubes and on the floor?

DS
 
You could have a lean condition if not capped. While on the IV, if the floats and float valves are good, no gas on the floor. If I'm reading the question right.
 
If you are fueling the carbs with an external tank then yes, take the vacuum hose off the gas tank petcock. You can use a golf tee or a bolt that fits in the inside the vacuum line or take the vacuum line off at carb 2 and cap that carb vacuum port.
 
Took my first test ride this afternoon and my Wee Beastie is not so Wee any more.
The bike is GREAT!!!

I figured out why I had gas on the floor while on the fuel IV; the IV was to high in the air and the gravity forced the fuel to over flow the bowls. Once I lowered the IV to tank height, I did not have any over flow problems. A simple physics mistake.

I did replace the petcock per Steve's original recommendation and I am glad I did.

Thank you Jpd11958 for your explanations regarding hydro lock and the fuel system. It was very helpful.

I also want to thank all of you who have been patient in answering my many questions. I have learned so much during this process.

Update:

What was done:

SteveISF Carb rebuild
New boots
New Vacuum hoses
New Fuel hose
New Petcock
Checked the valves
New gaskets
New spark plugs and wires
New Thermostat
Flushed radiator; now using Distilled water, Wetter Water and the remaining antifreeze in the Radiator
Air Box repair
Air Box Cover repair
Phase 1 of the 2 minute airbox mod (will ride a bit more and then trim the foam)
Carbs tuned
Oil and filter changed

Results:

No white smoke during startup
No Gas smell at the end of the ride
The idle is very smooth
The bike pulls noticeable harder than before when I open it up. There is a bit of lag, but trimming the foam should fix it, per SISF.
The bike sounds different with the air box tuning, which make since, because less air is having to escape when I get off the gas
Less vibration...for a Concours
The engine temp is very low. It never got to 50% when I was riding and was usually at 1/8th.

Again, Thank you all for your advice and information.

DS
 
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