Zrx1200R Trade..

[akustaka9858]

Hey guys, new to the forum and I had a few questions about a potential trade I am looking into...

I am currently the proud owner of a 2002 ZRX1200R Eddie Lawson color scheme with 36k miles and only minor issues that are all cosmetic, the bike pulls amazingly and is a blast to ride after I jetted it and put pods on the carbs. Previous owner was running the stock airbox/filter with a full KERKER header-back exhaust for some reason.. The bike pulls up the front tire if you crack the throttle abruptly and always makes me smile but I listed my bike for sale/trade on Facebook because even though I am 25 I threw out my back pretty badly in the U.S. Navy going on my second year and the aggressive lean in for the ZRX is starting to wear on my back more and more..

I had the bike listed for about a month before I had a guy who is about 5 hours from me offer a trade for a 2016 Kawasaki Concourse with roughly 16k miles. He is asking for my ZRX1200R and roughly 4k-5k on my end for the trade, it's an absolutely amazing looking motorcycle, green/black and looks mean with the Kawasaki colors, it has a two brothers slip on Sargent seat, and a 2up back rest with top bag for the back rack. Dude says if we traded the first thing I should do is get the ECU flashed, I'm personally thinking an "Ivans tune" since he did a lot of ZRXs back in the day and on the ZRX forum people tout him as the most experienced and more reliable than Dynotune with the outcome.

I'm not doubting it is a good trade, the cash on my end is a little hard to swallow but I can swing it and was actually LOOKING at trading for a concourse or goldwing when I listed the bike originally since I want a sporty touring bike for the long trips from PA to GA to see family and the like. I was doing research onto the Concourse and looked into the Kipass system, seems like a nightmare if you lose the keys and he only has one of the fobs, apparently his buddy lost the other one while helping him move into his new house.

To make it simple I will list out the generic questions I have for the bike, I'd love for any experienced Concourse riders to chime in with other tid-bits of information that may be beneficial to me like things I should look at when going to look at the bike and stuff when I finally get a good warm day up here...

1. What is the reliability of the Concourse? I've read that valve covers have a tendency to leak and its a pain to get at (plus valve checks) because of all the plastics that need to be removed.

2. How's the shaft drive? I've never ridden on a shaft drive motorcycle, only chain and belt.. I like the direct connection that a chain gives and HATE how belt drives have a tendency to introduce a small bit of lag when you crack the throttle quickly, it was super jarring when I experienced it on a Yamaha Bolt.

3. If I go through with the trade should I immediately get a replacement key programmed for the bike at a dealership, and how much of a pain is the Kipass system in terms of reliability? I have seen videos of a micro-switch in the ignition cluster where the stove knob key is getting stuck, making users have to bash the key to get it to engage so they can start their bike.

4. What is your guys general opinion on the trade? My 2002 ZRX1200R is a track ready motorcycle valued around 4.5k and the 2016 Concourse is valued around 9.6k, I've never ridden a touring motorcycle and have primarily ridden only sport bikes my entire life (excluding dirtbikes). Will the 1400GTR feel relatively the same as a sport bike even with its girthy size and weight? I've seen people popping wheelies on them in videos, they seem to do it with relative ease giving me the impression the bike is super torquey and has a lot of "pick-up" like a sports bike would but with more comfort.

5. I see people go up a size in the rear of the bike on their tire selection to make the bike more "flickable" into corners, is this something that is MANDATORY to make the bike handle better in twisties or just a preference thing? On that note too, I read that these bikes EAT tires.. Is that only if you are driving super aggressively all the time?

6. What are the maintenance intervals for this bike and what kind of octane level should be ran in it? I read that at higher elevations you can swap up what level of octane you are using, also depending on the ambient temperature... I'm assuming he has not had the valves checked on it yet, when should they be checked? (Reminder, bike has 16k miles) Can you run Shell Rotella in these bikes? I've been using it for years in my other motorcycles (sport bikes) without issues but I'd like to hear others experiences going from bike-to-bike.

I'm looking for a motorcycle to fall in love with and ride out till the end of it's life, I'm just skiddish about buying sport bikes because it's hard to judge if they have been abused or not, my current ZRX I purchased at 29k miles but the plugs are easy to get to for compression testing before purchase.. I highly doubt the dude wanting to trade me is going to either be willing to let me, or be willing to remove the plastics himself for me to perform a compression test on the motor, he supposedly just replaced the oil at the beginning of this month too so a "Blackstone" oil test is out of the question..... I'd love to hear what you all think about my situation and what you think I should do, I know 16k miles is "nothing" for a touring bike but this is a "sport-touring" bike as you all know..

 

[Pr356]

This may not be much help. You have asked a lot of good questions and I'm sure that more seasoned c14 owners will chime in soon.
But with everything you asked, I say do it, you won't regret it!!

Ride focused
Dale

 

[connie_rider]

Hello akustaka. Welcome to the COG Forum.
** As your talking to a Concours Group, realize that we're slightly predigest "for" the Connie, but we are honest.
,,,,,,Also realize that many of us would give our left arm for a Eddie Lawson ZRX.

I'll not answer your questions now. Just want to offer a few thoughts.

1) Concourse; I'll start with, NEVER/EVER "post" to a Connie group and spell Concours with an "e". <grin>
2) 25; I retired {after 25 years in the Navy} near the same time that you were born. ie; The COGdom is mostly older types.
3) bad back; The Connie is heavier, and more top heavy than the ZRX. & I suspect you won't be doing many long trips with your back. & A Corbin will be hard on your back. So, put that into your thoughts before buying.
4) 36k on a C-14 is nothing. It is more sport oriented than touring, so the bike "goes", and it eats miles.
5) Good warm day up here; Up "here", where? ie; Motorcycles up North are more seasonal than here in Texas.
6) Talk to your Buddies and see which bike they ride, as you will mostly be riding with Buddies.
7) We'll be in Alabama in June for our yearly National Rally. Come ride with us and see the Connies in action.

With all that said, a C-14 is a great bike.
I think you should buy one, but keep the ZRX.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[akustaka9858]

Hello akustaka. Welcome to the COG Forum.
** As your talking to a Concours Group, realize that we're slightly predigest "for" the Connie, but we are honest.
,,,,,,Also realize that many of us would give our left arm for a Eddie Lawson ZRX.

I'll not answer your questions now. Just want to offer a few thoughts.

1) Concourse; I'll start with, NEVER /EVER note to a Connie group and spell Concours with an "e". <grin>
2) 25; I retired {after 25 years in the Navy} near the same time that you were born. ie; The COGdom is mostly older types.
3) bad back; The Connie is heavier, and more top heavy than the ZRX. & I suspect you won't be doing many long trips with your back. & A Corbin will be hard on your back. So, put that into your thoughts before buying.
4) 36k on a C-14 is nothing. It is more sport oriented than touring, so the bike "goes", and it eats miles.
5) Good warm day up here; Up "here", where? ie; Motorcycles up North are more seasonal than here in Texas.
6) Talk to your Buddies and see which bike they ride, as you will mostly be riding with Buddies.
7) We'll be in Alabama in June for our yearly national Rally. Come ride with us and see the Connies in action.

With all that said, a C-14 is a great bike.
I think you should buy one, but keep the ZRX.

Ride safe, Ted

I'm trading because I am not attached to the ZRX emotionally in any way, I like it and it can be a blast to ride but I want something that is comfier and slightly more upright in terms of seating position with more wind protection and accessories than the ZRX. I already have a dual sport crf450x that is street legal and I'm getting out of the "speed bike" game with the desire for something more touring friendly.

Also parts and replacement plastics are becoming harder, and harder, and harder to come by, and becoming more, and more, and more, and more expensive. That is another BIG contributing factor in why I want to just trade it away, not to mention the carb maintenance can be a pain, I can tear a carb apart and put it back together, but do I want to? Eeeehhhh..... Not to mention the guy I'm trading to already owns 3 Eddie Lawson ZRX bikes, 2 1200R and 1 1100. so it's going to a good home.

A plastic front headlight cowl for the ZRX alone used is around 600 USD for the color accurate Eddie Lawson one.

1. I have an auto-correct in my chrome that kept changing how I spelt Concours, I now just turned it off..
2. Age has little to do with a passion such as motorcycling.
3. I don't think a top-heavy motorcycle is hard to move when under speed, I hardly do city riding (stop and go traffic). A lot of the problem on my ZRX is that it offers 0 wind protection and is a much lighter bike so when there is wind you get knocked around A LOT... It is a nice muscle bike, and on a drag strip doing a straight line it is amazing, street riding is not really the best on it especially with the squish-city brakes. (common complaint on ZRX forums)
4. The 36k is on my ZRX1200R, the Concours I'm looking at only has 16k.
5. Pennsylvania.
6. As sad as this is gonna sound I only have 2 friends with motorcycles and their both stupid with money, they constantly either flip bikes after "modding" the ones they buy or they just sink 4k into a 1k bike trying to make it "better". Neither of them have any experience with Kawasaki motorcycles, let alone the Concours.. I have more riding experience than both of them combines times 3.
7. I'd love to come and hang out.

 

[Stasch]

I agree with keeping the ZRX if possible.

I had a 95 ZX1100E GPZ which had the same basic 1100 motor that went into the ZRX 1100. Sweet sweet ride. Smooth and lots of quick.

I just wasn't riding it enough here in MI - only about 3 - 4 good months with it due to the limited wind protection.

That said I miss it all the time.

 

[2andblue]

Where you at in Pennsylvania?

I am in SE PA, ~30 miles north of Philadelphia.

My machine has a FULL AreaP Exhaust, Healtech Quickshifter, Ivan’s 2020’ updated Full AreaP ECU Flash, California Scientific windshield, Kaoko Throttle Lock and a Penske 8975 Double Adjust rear shock.

If your interested to take a closer look, see what the she feels like, seating position - let me know.

Wayne

 

[akustaka9858]

Where you at in Pennsylvania?

I am in SE PA, ~30 miles north of Philadelphia.

My machine has a FULL AreaP Exhaust, Healtech Quickshifter, Ivan’s 21’ Full AreaP ECU Flash, California Scientific windshield, Kaoko Throttle Lock and a Penske 8975 Double Adjust rear shock.

If your interested to take a closer look, see what the she feels like, seating position - let me know.

Wayne

NE PA, Bradford county. Little back alley town along route 6. How does the ECU flashing work? do you need to take it to a shop? Also for future posters, I'd still like all my questions answered up top.

 

[2andblue]

Are you around this weekend? We are likely cruising through the area headed back to state of NY.

For your questions I will give you my perspectives:

1. What is the reliability of the Concourse. Solid - other than making certain battery connections stay clean and tight it’s gas, oils, tires, air filter, coolant, brakes, valve maintenance - relatively set in order of frequency. Of course there are many other items that you could maintain as with any other machine but just highlighting the main. I've read that valve covers have a tendency to leak and its a pain to get at (plus valve checks) because of all the plastics that need to be removed. Valves are time consuming due to yes all the plastics, sub-frames, emission and clearance to get in there. It though is not a tough job, follow the service manual and you are good. There is a horizontally positioned exhaust can sensor where oil pools internally and the o-ring has a history of failure and oil dripping, I replaced mine at ~30K miles and no leaking but out of abundance of caution swapped it out; a slightly oversized o-ring is prescribed by a community leader and offered in Murphs Valve maintenance kit.

2. How's the shaft drive? Maybe a little bit of slack but really to me it is unnoticeable. I think Kawasaki did a great jog in designing the driveshaft. There are a couple issues from time to time of leaking rear final drives but that is not the norm. Have to love the no maintenance! (Other than changing the final drive casing oil which I just do with each oil change). I've never ridden on a shaft drive motorcycle, only chain and belt.. I like the direct connection that a chain gives and HATE how belt drives have a tendency to introduce a small bit of lag when you crack the throttle quickly, it was super jarring when I experienced it on a Yamaha Bolt.

3. If I go through with the trade should I immediately get a replacement key programmed for the bike at a dealership, and how much of a pain is the Kipass system in terms of reliability? KiPass is not a huge deal to me. Yeah takes a bit to get used to but after that it’s no biggie. I have had zero issues. I do have the primary fib and the backup key in my wallet. If you lose your fob that I understand is a PITA and/or very expensive... I have seen videos of a micro-switch in the ignition cluster where the stove knob key is getting stuck, making users have to bash the key to get it to engage so they can start their bike.

4. What is your guys general opinion on the trade? My 2002 ZRX1200R is a track ready motorcycle valued around 4.5k and the 2016 Concourse is valued around 9.6k, I've never ridden a touring motorcycle and have primarily ridden only sport bikes my entire life (excluding dirtbikes). Will the 1400GTR feel relatively the same as a sport bike even with its girthy size and weight? I've seen people popping wheelies on them in videos, they seem to do it with relative ease giving me the impression the bike is super torquey and has a lot of "pick-up" like a sports bike would but with more comfort. Concours has plenty of get-up and go but mind you this is a nearly 700# machine so it’s no Aprilia for ZRX. Flickable ... I don’t know if I would say that exactly but nimble yes and especially for her size you could say flickable. Tire choice, air pressures, suspension could feed into that as well.

5. I see people go up a size in the rear of the bike on their tire selection to make the bike more "flickable" into corners, is this something that is MANDATORY to make the bike handle better in twisties or just a preference thing? On that note too, I read that these bikes EAT tires.. Is that only if you are driving super aggressively all the time? I run the 55 profile for a less flat radius to the tire, little quicker turn I feel. Goes to point above.

6. What are the maintenance intervals for this bike and what kind of octane level should be ran in it? I read that at higher elevations you can swap up what level of octane you are using, also depending on the ambient temperature... I'm assuming he has not had the valves checked on it yet, when should they be checked? (Reminder, bike has 16k miles) Can you run Shell Rotella in these bikes? I've been using it for years in my other motorcycles (sport bikes) without issues but I'd like to hear others experiences going from bike-to-bike. Oil please do your own research, I stick with the manual and use 15W40 synthetic motorcycle oil, there’s lots of information on the forum in this topic. Intervals for maintenance are I would say, outside of spark plugs, standard nothing surprising. The spark plug maintenance interval is 7,600 miles - no need to change NGK Iridiums at this interval: huge dealer money maker there...

I hope this helps.
Wayne

 

[akustaka9858]

Are you around this weekend? We are likely cruising through the area headed back to state of NY.

For your questions I will give you my perspectives:

1. What is the reliability of the Concourse. Solid - other than making certain battery connections stay clean and tight it’s gas, oils, tires, air filter, coolant, brakes, valve maintenance - relatively set in order of frequency. Of course there are many other items that you could maintain as with any other machine but just highlighting the main. I've read that valve covers have a tendency to leak and its a pain to get at (plus valve checks) because of all the plastics that need to be removed. Valves are time consuming due to yes all the plastics, sub-frames, emission and clearance to get in there. It though is not a tough job, follow the service manual and you are good. There is a horizontally positioned exhaust can sensor where oil pools internally and the o-ring has a history of failure and oil dripping, I replaced mine at ~30K miles and no leaking but out of abundance of caution swapped it out; a slightly oversized o-ring is prescribed by a community leader and offered in Murphs Valve maintenance kit.

2. How's the shaft drive? Maybe a little bit of slack but really to me it is unnoticeable. I think Kawasaki did a great jog in designing the driveshaft. There are a couple issues from time to time of leaking rear final drives but that is not the norm. Have to love the no maintenance! (Other than changing the final drive casing oil which I just do with each oil change). I've never ridden on a shaft drive motorcycle, only chain and belt.. I like the direct connection that a chain gives and HATE how belt drives have a tendency to introduce a small bit of lag when you crack the throttle quickly, it was super jarring when I experienced it on a Yamaha Bolt.

3. If I go through with the trade should I immediately get a replacement key programmed for the bike at a dealership, and how much of a pain is the Kipass system in terms of reliability? KiPass is not a huge deal to me. Yeah takes a bit to get used to but after that it’s no biggie. I have had zero issues. I do have the primary fib and the backup key in my wallet. If you lose your fob that I understand is a PITA and/or very expensive... I have seen videos of a micro-switch in the ignition cluster where the stove knob key is getting stuck, making users have to bash the key to get it to engage so they can start their bike.

4. What is your guys general opinion on the trade? My 2002 ZRX1200R is a track ready motorcycle valued around 4.5k and the 2016 Concourse is valued around 9.6k, I've never ridden a touring motorcycle and have primarily ridden only sport bikes my entire life (excluding dirtbikes). Will the 1400GTR feel relatively the same as a sport bike even with its girthy size and weight? I've seen people popping wheelies on them in videos, they seem to do it with relative ease giving me the impression the bike is super torquey and has a lot of "pick-up" like a sports bike would but with more comfort. Concours has plenty of get-up and go but mind you this is a nearly 700# machine so it’s no Aprilia for ZRX. Flickable ... I don’t know if I would say that exactly but nimble yes and especially for her size you could say flickable. Tire choice, air pressures, suspension could feed into that as well.

5. I see people go up a size in the rear of the bike on their tire selection to make the bike more "flickable" into corners, is this something that is MANDATORY to make the bike handle better in twisties or just a preference thing? On that note too, I read that these bikes EAT tires.. Is that only if you are driving super aggressively all the time? I run the 55 profile for a less flat radius to the tire, little quicker turn I feel. Goes to point above.

6. What are the maintenance intervals for this bike and what kind of octane level should be ran in it? I read that at higher elevations you can swap up what level of octane you are using, also depending on the ambient temperature... I'm assuming he has not had the valves checked on it yet, when should they be checked? (Reminder, bike has 16k miles) Can you run Shell Rotella in these bikes? I've been using it for years in my other motorcycles (sport bikes) without issues but I'd like to hear others experiences going from bike-to-bike. Oil please do your own research, I stick with the manual and use 15W40 synthetic motorcycle oil, there’s lots of information on the forum in this topic. Intervals for maintenance are I would say, outside of spark plugs, standard nothing surprising. The spark plug maintenance interval is 7,600 miles - no need to change NGK Iridiums at this interval: huge dealer money maker there...

I hope this helps.
Wayne

Damn man that is an abundance of information and you pretty much hit on every thing I was asking, I appreciate it. Yeah, I'll be around this weekend and can meet somewhere if you wanted to hangout and show me your bike so I could see it in person and sit on it. Are bar risers highly recommended on the GTR1400?

 

[RICHKAWI]

I had an 04 ZRX that I sold in '19. They are great bikes.
I bought my C14 in 2016 and love it. The stock riding position has a forward lean to it, but the addition of bar risers puts the rider into a much more sit up position. You'll feel more stretched out on the C14 (especially at the legs) and you won't notice the additional weight once under way. The C14 will cost more in the long run. It eats tires, all that plastic adds to the cost of services and the gas mileage isn't as good.
All that being said, I love my C14 and am glad I have it. But I do miss my old ZRX.

 

[2andblue]

NE PA, Bradford county. Little back alley town along route 6. How does the ECU flashing work? do you need to take it to a shop? Also for future posters, I'd still like all my questions answered up top.

ECU pop it out send to Ivan or Steve and they do their magic and send it back quickly. All in all depending on a few factors I think from mailbox sent out to mailbox returned I think most experience 5 - 8 days returned. Of course contact the tuner of your choice to confirm.?

 

[Pr356]

2andblue did a great job answering your questions.
I will add to the question, " does the c14 eat tires?" Most will say yes. But with that said there are many factors that play into it; roads, riding style, rider,tires etc.
I mounted Michelin road gt 5's just before a trip last year and after 4700 miles they were pretty much toast. I liked the tires but not for the money they cost.
I will admit I'm a bit addicted to the rush I get from wot due to a heavy right wrist.
Also there is a lot of good information on this forum that addresses many your questions.

Ride focused
Dale

 

[2andblue]

Damn man that is an abundance of information and you pretty much hit on every thing I was asking, I appreciate it. Yeah, I'll be around this weekend and can meet somewhere if you wanted to hangout and show me your bike so I could see it in person and sit on it. Are bar risers highly recommended on the GTR1400?

No worries on the info., Let me verify weekend planning and will connect PM with you for arrangements.

I have seen many that appreciate bar-risers, I think this is a personal preference and also body / geometry equation. I myself 6’1” I have no issues with the standard positioning

2andblue did a great job answering your questions.
I will add to the question, " does the c14 eat tires?" Most will say yes. But with that said there are many factors that play into it; roads, riding style, rider,tires etc.
I mounted Michelin road gt 5's just before a trip last year and after 4700 miles they were pretty much toast. I liked the tires but not for the money they cost.
I will admit I'm a bit addicted to the rush I get from wot due to a heavy right wrist.
Also there is a lot of good information on this forum that addresses many your questions.

Ride focused
Dale

Dale you and I experienced the same on the ROAD GT’s. Are you riding 2-up?

The weather conditions as well can eat these tires, lots of miles on open road and heavy wind I would expect the body, bags, windshield all apply pressures to the tires. C-14 is not petite in size or weight.

98% of our miles are 2-up and possibly some under inflation of the factory recommended pressure of 42 cold leads us to burning tires but the heavy right wrist certainly ate the Michelin Pilot 4 GT’s and the Michelin Road 5 GT’s. Now we’re about 3K into Pirelli Angel2 A-specs- just still out.

All in all I think 5K - 6K is normal mileage for spirited riders, mileage may vary..

 

[Pr356]

2andblue, I was solo but was loaded down pretty good as it was a two week trip. The trip consisted of RWTW, 3 days in north central Arkansas and the Spider rally so there was a lot of spirited riding. It was a great trip and definitely worth it to wear out the tires sooner than I thought I would.

Ride focused
Dale

 

[2andblue]

Also just though about this akustaka there is a event coming up in Williamsport June 4-6. Should consider coming. We will be attending.

Wayne

 

[TRM-KS]

Welcome!

I won't bother advising you to keep the ZRX as you've made it clear that you want to move on. I have a 2010 C14 that I bought used in 2012 with only 1400 miles on it. I really liked the bike then, but I love it now, for three main reasons. Replacing the stock seat with a Sargent was a good step, but I tired of it after a few years, even with an added AirHawk, and now have a Baldwin saddle. Now I can stay on the bike for a full fuel tank's worth of miles. Also, I'm running SISF's Mountain Runner Premium flash, and the bike now runs smoother, shifts better, and has far less driveline snatch, especially on takeoff. I have a short inseam, so pulling away smoothly from a stop is important to me. Finally, a set of Murph's bar risers and wedges relieved my wrist and elbow discomfort. I'm 5' 9" and can ride, well, as I said, between fuel stops comfortably and definitely more focused.

As for maintenance, this bike is pretty much like any other. Fluids, tires, pads, etc. I just did a valve inspection/adjustment, and while time consuming, it was not especially difficult. As mentioned earlier, follow the service manual, supplement with Fred Harmon's maintenance DVDs if you choose (I did), and take your time.

I would say pull the trigger, join us, and have fun. BTW, anything I've mentioned here for names or products can be referenced pretty easily here on the forum with a simple search.

Good luck!

 

[2andblue]

Calling Astukaka:

See this in C-14 classifieds !

As long as this machine has been regularly driven (monthly) this would be a great deal. Roughly same cash you were going to fork up with your bike as trade, now you keep both!

 

[akustaka9858]

Calling Astukaka:

See this in C-14 classifieds !

As long as this machine has been regularly driven (monthly) this would be a great deal. Roughly same cash you were going to fork up with your bike as trade, now you keep both!

Third local owner on a bike with only 15k miles and is that old honestly kinda scares me.... I don't like bikes where people "bike hop" on them because usually they get beaten to shit and neglected.

 

[2andblue]

Third local owner huh?

Possibly worth a walk around but yes I hear you.

Ride it hard isn’t always bad but maintaining them for that level of use is also necessary and that I can see being neglected.